• Title/Summary/Keyword: Contemporary Costume

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Characteristics of neo-deconstruction in Feng Chen Wang's Chinese fashion collection (펑첸왕 중국 패션 컬렉션에 나타난 신-해체주의 특성)

  • Anna Ren;Younhee Lee
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.31 no.6
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    • pp.806-823
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    • 2023
  • The aim of this study was to analyze the design characteristics of Chinese fashion designer Feng Chen Wang and interpret their implicit meaning from a neo-deconstruction perspective. A review of domestic and foreign literature, outlined the develop- ment of deconstruction and neo-deconstruction, with neo-deconstruction's aesthetic features termed 'traditional fusion', 'positive playfulness', 'open communication', and 'multiple inclusiveness'. These features informed an analysis of Feng Chen Wang's fashion design. Four key findings emerged. First, 'traditional fusion' combines traditional Chinese colors, items, handicrafts, and patterns with modern design to break down boundaries between past and modern, tradition and fashion. Second, 'positive playfulness' promotes creativity and fun, using bright colors, exaggerated accessories, and playing withthe composition of traditional clothes to create a positive atmosphere. Third, 'open communication' emphasizes design that combines practicality and creati- vity in response to consumer needs, incorporating the thoughts arising from individual experiences and interest in social phenomena. Fourth, 'multiple inclusiveness' breaks down boundaries of sexuality, hierarchy, and body shape, embracing various ideas of beauty and respecting uniqueness through design that are seen as available to all. Using a neo-deconstruction perspective, Feng Chen Wang provides novel product planning ideas for Chinese fashion brands and reflects the values and meaning of modern design pursued by contemporary Chinese designers.

Contents Development Related to Costume Culture in Traditional Intangible Cultural Properties -The Modernization of Costume Design in Dongraeyaryu- (전통무형문화재의 복식문화컨텐츠 개발 -동래야류 의상 디자인의 현대화 작업)

  • Kim, Soon-Ku
    • Archives of design research
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    • v.17 no.4
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    • pp.251-258
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    • 2004
  • Today we seem to be flooded with digital culture as the age of information has reached its peak. As fusion culture has been generalized, in which the arts and culture of the East and the West are in harmony, and quality of life has been improved, people are enjoying more abundant cultural benefits than ever. In such a situation, we may lose the origin of our culture and disregard our traditional culture due to the mixture of cultures. In addition, it is necessary at this point to distinguish pure culture from mixed one and to re-illuminate the value of our original culture for the next generation. Therefore, the author took interested in Dongraeyaryu, a large-scale festival in Busan, which has been designated as an important intangible cultural property, and carried out a research for its continuous instruction and activation. among contents such as music, costume, dancing and stage properties that compose intangible cultural property, this study selected costume, which has significant visual effects and large differences in shape between old one and contemporary one, for development. By proposing modernized design of costume preferred by the new generation and in harmony with the masks, this study wished to narrow the generation gap, to direct young people's attention to the learning of tradition and to propose motives that activate the culture of local festival.

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The Aesthetic and Formative Characteristics of Egypt Retro Trends (이집트 복식의 재해석을 통한 미적 특성에 따른 조형적 특성에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Eun-Sil
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.17 no.3
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    • pp.383-395
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this study was to provide a formative charateristics by analyzing aesthetic charateristics of Egypt costume expressed in contemporary fashion. The result of this study obtained through this process were as follows. Aesthetic characteristics were expressed as a primative-retro characteristics, and a erotic-retro characteristics and a decorative-retro characteristics. Based on these trends, this study analyzed formative charateristics in an aspect of form, color, material, and decoration. In the modern fashion, unlike the H-line silhouette given by a natural fit in the primitive retro, the erotic retro was characterized in the shape by a tight H-line silhouette. For the color, peach, yellow green, gold, light blue, red, and black were used as the main color. For the material, see-through, gauze, mesh, organdy, and tight vinyl were utilized to emphasize an erotic image and expose a body secretly. For the decoration, the characteristic of erotic retro using the simple or same colors frequently was the use of similar accessories colors matched with material colors. The decorative retro was characterized in the shape by a H-line silhouette connected as a part of clothing which applied passium and a greatly modified silhouette from an Egyptian simple style which was well-matched with splendid accessories. For the color, the broadest range of color changes was found from light pastel such as white, yellow, light pink, burnt orange, blue, purple, silver, gold, and red to strong vivid tones. For the material, modern materials such as organdy, tulle, leather, and furs were often used. For the decoration, passium, an eagle pattern, scarab earrings, a crown, a sneak-shaped coronet, and pictograph printed on the fabric were frequently used.

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Theoretical Inquiry into the Relationship between Fashion and Art -Focusing on the Relationship between the Artist and Fashion, and between the Fashion Designer and Art- (패션과 예술의 간계에 대한 이론적 고찰 -화가와 패션, 패션디자이너와 예술의 관계를 중심으로-)

  • Shin, Joo-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.8
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    • pp.1-12
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    • 2008
  • This study begins by establishing the theory that paintings serve as a visual documentation of a particular era and record the ideal fashions and customs about dress behavior through the costumes represented in them and examines the close relationship between fashion and art, focusing on the influence of art on fashion, as well as that of fashion on art, for both painters and fashion designers. To attain the goal of the study, the selected objects of study are written references and dresses represented in paintings produced in the 19th century. Painters who were the subject of documentation created or popularized new fashion styles before the concept of 'fashion designer' was introduced in history. In order to capture and represent the ideal beauty of certain period, painters understood the important role of fashion. Their work not only included the designing of costumes or accessories for the sitters, but also the spreading of new fashion styles by showing the sitters wearing them. Study of the mutual relationship between fashion and art grew more vigorous among many intellectuals in a variety of fields beginning in the 19th century. The standing of fashion was elevated and the concept of the 'fashion designer' was introduced and the interest in the themes of a specific style or the background of a trend increased during this time period. Many contemporary fashion designers created dresses inspired by the costumes represented in paintings. The result of this study which focuses on the relationships between fashion, artist, fashion designer and art is that connection between fashion and art is closely and firmly formed. For several hundred years, painters were the creators as well as promulgators of fashion and fashion designers, from the 19th century until today, have obtained their creative inspiration from art.

Costume Culture and Customs of Ordinary People Appearing in Genre Painting During the Late Chosun Dynasty - focusing on Danwon Kim Hong-do's Pungsokhwachop - (조선후기 풍속화에 나타난 민간의 생활유형별 복식문화와 사회상 - 단원 김홍도의 《풍속화첩》을 중심으로 -)

  • 양숙향;김나형
    • The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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    • v.15 no.1
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    • pp.17-26
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    • 2004
  • Not much is known about Korean clothes from past centuries. Fortunately, we are able to make some inferences based on various sources of data other than the actual clothes themselves. Historical records such as Kim Hong-do's Pungsokhwa Pieces, well known to us, vividly depict features of the costume and the lifestyle of his time along with contemporary Korean humor and atmosphere. Kim Hong-do is the artist who, having accomplished pictorial refinement, recognized social change and took this into his artistic world late in the 18th century. The ruling classes, in contrast, tended to adhere to anachronistic medieval philosophies in a gradually changing society. In this study, Kim Hong-do's Pungsokhwachop, Treasure No. 527, preserved in the National Museum of Korea, was viewed from a new perspective, and it was discovered to have assorted the costume and culture of ordinary people according to their life styles. Fourteen of the pieces depicted how common citizens made their living, three described love affairs, five depicted people at play, md the rest showed elements of education, wedding ceremonies, and shamanism, respectively. Various types of clothing were observed reflecting the life styles of ordinary people, and a somewhat bold exposure of body was noticed in women's fashion in the late Chosun Dynasty. They chose clothing as they pleased to fit their jobs and functions, which produced elegant self-regulation and creativity based on practical beauty. A hat - yet to be found as a relic - appeared in Blacksmith's Workshop, and revealed the changing social customs of the late Chosun Dynasty in the 18th century. It is hoped that the results of this study will serve as a valuable reference point for the globalization of Korean clothes.

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The Design Characteristic in Contemporary Men's Knitwear - Focusing on Milano Collection from 2001 to 2010 - (현대 남성 니트 웨어의 디자인 특성 - 2001년~2010년 밀라노컬렉션을 중심으로 -)

  • Lee, Seung-A;Lee, Youn-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.62 no.4
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    • pp.91-106
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    • 2012
  • The purpose of this study was to offer some directions for the design of men's knitwear and provide basic data helpful for design conception and product development for creative and unique men's knitwear. As for the methodology, the investigator examined the works of these following ten designers that consistently participated in the men's Milano Collection for the last ten years from 2001 S/S to 2010 F/W: Burberry Prorsum, Costume National, D & G, D squared, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Iceberg, Prada, and Vivien Westwood. We identified the design elements expressed in knitwear, categorized examples for each element, and reviewed their characteristics. The results of this study are as follows. The designers usually adopted the H-silhouette with some room until 2006, after which the slim tubular silhouette became prevalent. Most of the designers made knitwear with normal yarn and expressed them by dyeing or printing regardless of seasons, which meant the usage level of fancy yarn was low. The much usage of the basic pattern was particularly salient. The most popular basic structure was plain, which was followed by rib and color pattern, which included the jacquard and intarsia pattern. The designers presented thick outer items made of thick yarn for F/W seasons and many thin inner items made of thin yarn for S/S seasons. The popular colors were brown from the Red Group(R) and beige from the Orange Group (YR) regardless of seasons. When achromatic colors were used a lot, there was a development of various grey shades. For the most used basic structure, plain, the designers employed such technical methods as printing, pleat treatment, and dyeing in high frequency.

Study on Expression Characteristic of Patchwork Quilt Technique Type Expressed in Modern Fashion (현대 패션에 표현된 패치워크 퀼트기법 유형의 표현특성에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Ji-Eun;Kwak, Tai-Gi
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.19 no.3
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    • pp.17-32
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    • 2017
  • Modern society has been transformed into a digital emotional society that could gradually be seen, felt, and enjoyed by the diversification of personal consumption desires due to digital development. Accordingly, in fashion, an original fashion sense that arose out of classical and conventional thinking has become important and there is an increasing interest in patchwork quilts. The purpose of this study lies in contributing to the development and utilization of creative and emotional fashion design by expanding the mental changes that have emerged in modern society to creative areas after analyzing the classification and expression characteristics of the type cases of patchwork quilt techniques expressed in modern fashion. In addition, it is meaningful to examine how the expressive characteristics of patchwork quilts are expressed in the digital emotion era. This study paralleled literature research and empirical case studies. In the scope and method of research, the theatrical research was centered on literature data. For visual data, website photos were collected, limited to women's clothing among the collections from Fall & Winter 2014 to Spring & Summer 2017. After drawing the expression types of patchwork quilts extracted from the previous research based on the design formative factors, the fashion-related expert group analyzed the expressive characteristics of 501 photographs in which the patchwork quilt of the designer clothing collection were reflected. As a result of analysis, the expressive types appeared in the order of diversification of techniques and materials, extended dual images, new formative composition, and reconstruction of traditional patchwork. In this study, the expressive characteristics of patchwork quilts expressed in contemporary fashion are analyzed and drawn as variability, compromise, convergence, and playfulness. Through this, it is hoped that this study can be used variously in the development of fashion design by expanding the interpretation of costume culture.

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A study of Hair Art in Minimalism (미니멀리즘에 대한 헤어아트 연구)

  • Park, Eun-Jung;Choi, Eun-Suk
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.10 no.5
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    • pp.784-795
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    • 2008
  • This study is a thesis about the hair art reflected minimalism which is expanded to various art fields using minimum formative measures minimalism is a kind of modern art trend. It is analyzed theoretically that the works of this researcher approaching minimalism and consideration of minimalism about hair, flexible clothes and artistic costume. It is defined that the "hair art" is "aesthetic hair", and I include my three works approaching minimalism that are researched, extended, made. I spread the works which have minimalism characteristic by design intent, concept, title, color, ingredient, size and detail, consider the hair art works theoretically and present the basis and method of scholar study minimalism art trend. I think that succeeding studies related to the hair art should be continued. I expect that various work activities of hair art artists and scientific breakthrough via theoretical thesis about the work of themselves.

A Study of the relationship between Fashion Sensibility and Emotion(Part II) (현대패션에 대한 감성과 감정의 관계 연구(제1보))

  • 김유진;이경희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.27 no.3_4
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    • pp.418-428
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    • 2003
  • The purpose of this study was to provide the guidance in more objective and proper clothing design reflecting today's consumers' modes in value consumption by identifying the meaning structure and relationship between fashion sensibility and emotion. The stimulus was 54 photos of contemporary costume which represented the Izard' DES. The questionnaire consisted of hi-polar 25 pairs adjective scale of fashion sensibility and the 18 noun scale of emotion was distributed to 970 male and female living in Pusan area. The data were analyzed by Factor analysis, Correlation analysis and Regression analysis using the statistical SPSS package. The major finding of this research were as follows.1. Fashion sensibilities consist of estheticism, maturity, character and feminity to represent 57.17% total varlarlce. 2. Emotions consist of negative emotion, distress afraid, arousal, shame and enjoyment to represent 70.84% total variance. 3. For the relation between fashion sensibility and emotion, they showed significant relationship in most of factors.

Detection of Traditional Costumes: A Computer Vision Approach

  • Marwa Chacha Andrea;Mi Jin Noh;Choong Kwon Lee
    • Smart Media Journal
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    • v.12 no.11
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    • pp.125-133
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    • 2023
  • Traditional attire has assumed a pivotal role within the contemporary fashion industry. The objective of this study is to construct a computer vision model tailored to the recognition of traditional costumes originating from five distinct countries, namely India, Korea, Japan, Tanzania, and Vietnam. Leveraging a dataset comprising 1,608 images, we proceeded to train the cutting-edge computer vision model YOLOv8. The model yielded an impressive overall mean average precision (MAP) of 96%. Notably, the Indian sari exhibited a remarkable MAP of 99%, the Tanzanian kitenge 98%, the Japanese kimono 92%, the Korean hanbok 89%, and the Vietnamese ao dai 83%. Furthermore, the model demonstrated a commendable overall box precision score of 94.7% and a recall rate of 84.3%. Within the realm of the fashion industry, this model possesses considerable utility for trend projection and the facilitation of personalized recommendation systems.