The Research Journal of the Costume Culture (복식문화연구)

The Costume Culture Association (복식문화학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Characteristics of neo-deconstruction in Feng Chen Wang's Chinese fashion collection

펑첸왕 중국 패션 컬렉션에 나타난 신-해체주의 특성

  • Anna Ren (Major in Human-Tech Convergence, Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Hanyang University) ;
  • Younhee Lee (Major in Human-Tech Convergence, Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Hanyang University)
  • 임안나 (한양대학교 의류학과 휴먼테크융합전공) ;
  • 이연희 (한양대학교 의류학과 휴먼테크융합전공)
  • Received : 2023.09.19
  • Accepted : 2023.12.01
  • Published : 2023.12.31
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

The aim of this study was to analyze the design characteristics of Chinese fashion designer Feng Chen Wang and interpret their implicit meaning from a neo-deconstruction perspective. A review of domestic and foreign literature, outlined the develop- ment of deconstruction and neo-deconstruction, with neo-deconstruction's aesthetic features termed 'traditional fusion', 'positive playfulness', 'open communication', and 'multiple inclusiveness'. These features informed an analysis of Feng Chen Wang's fashion design. Four key findings emerged. First, 'traditional fusion' combines traditional Chinese colors, items, handicrafts, and patterns with modern design to break down boundaries between past and modern, tradition and fashion. Second, 'positive playfulness' promotes creativity and fun, using bright colors, exaggerated accessories, and playing withthe composition of traditional clothes to create a positive atmosphere. Third, 'open communication' emphasizes design that combines practicality and creati- vity in response to consumer needs, incorporating the thoughts arising from individual experiences and interest in social phenomena. Fourth, 'multiple inclusiveness' breaks down boundaries of sexuality, hierarchy, and body shape, embracing various ideas of beauty and respecting uniqueness through design that are seen as available to all. Using a neo-deconstruction perspective, Feng Chen Wang provides novel product planning ideas for Chinese fashion brands and reflects the values and meaning of modern design pursued by contemporary Chinese designers.

Keywords

References

  1. Carter, L. (2018, February 6). Feng Chen Wang fall 2018 menswear. Vogue. Retrieved November 20, 2021, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-menswear/feng-chen-wang#review
  2. Feng Chen Wang [@fengchenwang]. (2021a, December 11). Feng Chen Wang X Rolingstone China [Instagram Photograph]. Retrieved October 25, 2021, from https://www.instagram.com/p/CY6rev_oRlj/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
  3. Feng Chen Wang [@fengchenwang]. (2021b, January 20). Feng Chen Wang X Converse [Instagram Photograph]. Retrieved October 25, 2021, from https://www.instagram.com/p/CXTquUGtwd6/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
  4. Han, M., & Lee, Y. (2022). Deconstruction fashion design through an analysis of Korean fashion design: Using 3D virtual clothing. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 30(1), 66-87. doi:10.29049/rjcc.2022.30.1.66
  5. Heo, J. Y. (2020). Upcycling shirt design with deconstructionist idea method. Journal of Basic Design & Art, 21(5), 655-668. doi:10.47294/KSBDA.21.5.47
  6. Hess, L. (2022, February 23). Feng Chen Wang fall 2022 ready-to-wear. Vogue. Retrieved October 25, 2021, from https://www.vogue.com/fashionshows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/feng-chen-wang#review
  7. Jin, Z. Y. (2021). A study on the design characteristics of Neo-deconstructivism fashion: Comparison of Vetements and Marques' Almeida. Unpublished master's thesis, Incheon National University, Incheon, Korea.
  8. Kim, J.-Y., & Yang, S.-H. (1997). 'Deconstruction' from the outside expressed in the contemporary costume(part I): From 1980's to 1990's. Journal of the Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles, 21(8), 1261-1274.
  9. Kim, J.-Y., & Yang, S.-H. (1998). 'Deconstruction' from the inside expressed in the contemporary costume(part II): From 1980's to 1990's. Journal of the Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles, 22(1), 3-17.
  10. Kim, M. H. (2019). A study on the Neo-deconstruction design in Loewe. The Treatise on The Plastic Media, 22(4), 14-24. doi:10.35280/KOTPM.2019.22.4.2
  11. Kim, S.-A. (2008). Characteristic analysis of the deconstructive shoes design in modern fashion. Journal of Fashion Design, 8(1), 135-149.
  12. Kim, S. B. (1994). 패션디자인과 해체주의 [Fashion design and deconstruction]. 한성대학교 논문집, 18(1), 487-511.
  13. Kim, S. E., & Ha, J. S. (2016). A study on aesthetic values of Neo-deconstructive fashion: Focused on Vetements, Marques' Almeida, Jacquemus. Journal of Fashion Design, 16(4), 129-150. doi:10.18652/2016.16.4.8
  14. Kim, S. H., & Kim, Y. (2017). A study on the design characteristics in positive deconstruction fashion: Focused on the collections since the 2014. Journal of Fashion Design, 17(4), 67-85. doi:10.18652/2017.17.4.5
  15. Kim, S. Y. (2016). An analysis of Vetements fashion collections and its internal meaning: Focusing on fashion collections from 2014 F/W to 2016 F/W. The Journal of the Korean Society Design Culture, 22(3), 67-80.
  16. Lakshmi, B. (2007). Designs of the times: Using key movements and styles for contemporary design. (M. H. Jung, Trans.). Seoul: Sigongsa. (Original work published 2005)
  17. Lee, H., & Lee, Y. (2019). Characteristics of differance image in contemporary men's fashion. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 27(3), 222-238. doi:10.29049/rjcc.2019.27.3.222
  18. Lee, K.-E. (2016, March 11). 마르지엘라의 후예들 [Descendants of Margiela]. W Korea. Retrieved October 25, 2021, from http://www.wkorea.com/2016/03/11/마르지엘라의-후예들/
  19. Lee, M. (2019). A study on the fashion design by Neo-deconstructivism: based on Paulo Coelho's novel 'Eleven minutes'. Unpublished master's thesis, Kookmin University, Seoul, Korea.
  20. Lee, Y., & Park, M. (2000). Deconstruction of the street fashion in 1990s: Focus on S/S pret-a-porter collections. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 24(8), 1155-1166.
  21. Leitch, L. (2020, January 6). Feng Chen Wang fall 2020 menswear. Vogue. Retrieved November 20, 2021, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-menswear/feng-chen-wang#review
  22. Leitch, L. (2021, October 14). Vogue Runway Feng Chen Wang Shanghai spring 2022 menswear. Vogue. Retrieved November 20, 2021, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/shanghai-spring-2022/feng-chen-wang
  23. London Fashion Week. (n.d.). Feng Chen Wang. Retrieved November 20, 2021, from https://londonfashionweek.co.uk/designers/feng-chen-wang
  24. Monica, K. (2018, July 10). Vogue Runway Feng Chen Wang spring 2019 menswear. Vogue. Retrieved October 25, 2021, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-menswear/feng-chen-wang
  25. Mower, S. (2022, July 21). Vogue Runway Marques' Almeida Fall 2022 ready-to-wear. Vogue. Retrieved October 25, 2021, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/marques-almeida
  26. Nnadi, C. (2019, June 11). Vogue Runway Feng Chen Wang spring 2020 menswear. Vogue. Retrieved October 25, 2021, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-menswear/feng-chenwang
  27. Park, S.-Y., & Nam, Y.-J. (2003). Dividinism of collar of costume in the cultural pattern of post-modernism. The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal, 5(3), 227-234.
  28. Park, S. Y., Kim, H. J., & Han, J. M. (2015). Depaysement characteristics in deconstructive fashion: Focused on 2013s/s~2015s/s collection. Journal of Korea Design Forum, 46, 231-242. doi:10.21326/ksdt.2015..46.021
  29. Park, Y. K., & Kim, M. H. (2020). A study on the development of denim design with 3D printing and DTP from neo-deconstructivism. Journal of Cultural Product & Design, 60, 157-166. doi:10.18555/kicpd.2020.60.15
  30. Qilin, Z. (2021, May 24). FengChenWang 2021 [Elle interview with designer Wang Fengchen]. Elle China. Retrieved October 25, 2021, from https://www.ellechina.com/fashion/fashionweek/a36513227/feng-chen-wang2021-elle/
  31. Seo, K.-H., & Choo, T.-G. (2005). A study on intertextuality expressed in mordern fashion: Focus on 1999~2005 Paris collections. The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal, 7(4), 361-370.
  32. Sina weibo. (2022, February 11). Beijing winter Olympic games 2022. Retrieved October 25, 2022, from https://m.weibo.cn/6226846261/4735791207285983
  33. Vogue. (n.d.a). Runway, Vetements fall 2016 ready-to-wear. Retrieved November 20, 2021, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/vetements/slideshow/collection#25
  34. Vogue. (n.d.b). Runway, Jacquemus spring 2015 ready-to-wear. Retrieved November 20, 2021, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/jacquemus/slideshow/collection#23
  35. Vogue. (n.d.c). Runway, Y/Project spring 2022 ready-to-wear. Retrieved November 20, 2021, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2022-ready-to-wear/y-project/slideshow/collection#30
  36. Vogue. (n.d.d). Runway, Vetements spring 2016 ready-to-wear. Retrieved November 20, 2021, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/vetements/slideshow/collection#1
  37. Vogue. (n.d.e). Runway, Vetements spring 2020 ready-to-wear. Retrieved November 20, 2021, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/vetements/slideshow/collection#1
  38. Vogue. (n.d.f). Runway, Vetements spring 2023 menswear. Retrieved November 20, 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-menswear/vetements
  39. Vogue. (n.d.g). Runway, Marque's Alimeida fall 2022 ready-to-wear. Retrieved November 20, 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/marques-almeida/slideshow/collection#8
  40. Vogue. (n.d.h). Runway, Vetements spring 2019 ready-to-wear. Retrieved November 20, 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/vetements/slideshow/collection#7
  41. Vogue. (n.d.i). Runway, Feng Chen Wang spring 2019 menswear. Retrieved October 25, 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-menswear/feng-chen-wang#gallery-collection
  42. Vogue. (n.d.j). Runway, Feng Chen Wang fall 2018 menswear. Retrieved October 25, 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-menswear/feng-chen-wang/slideshow/collection
  43. Vogue. (n.d.k). Runway, Feng Chen Wang spring 2021 menswear. Retrieved October 25, 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2021-menswear/feng-chen-wang/slideshow/collection#3
  44. Vogue. (n.d.l). Runway, Feng Chen Wang spring 2020 menswear. Retrieved October 25, 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-menswear/feng-chen-wang/slideshow/collection#18
  45. Vogue. (n.d.m). Runway, Feng Chen Wang fall 2020 menswear. Retrieved October 25, 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-menswear/feng-chen-wang/slideshow/collection#33
  46. Vogue. (n.d.n). Runway, Feng Chen Wang fall 2021 ready-to-wear. Retrieved October 25, 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/feng-chen-wang#gallery-collection
  47. Vogue. (n.d.o). Runway, Feng Chen Wang fall 2022 ready-to-wear. Retrieved October 25, 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2022-ready-to-wear/feng-chen-wang/slideshow/collection#23
  48. Vogue. (n.d.p). Runway, Feng Chen Wang Shanghai-spring 2022 ready-to-wear. Retrieved October 25, 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/shanghai-spring-2022/feng-chen-wang#gallery-collection
  49. Wu, Y. (2021). A study on the fashion design of Maison Margiela from the Neo-deconstruction perspective. Unpublished master's thesis, Chung-Ang University, Seoul, Korea.
  50. Yoo, S. J., & Lee, Y. (2021). Characteristics of Neo-deconstruction expressed in the Jacquemus fashion collection. Journal of the Korea Fashion & Costume Design Association, 23(4), 39-56. doi:10.30751/kfcda.2021.23.4.39