• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.1-8
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• 2006

This study was aimed at reviewing kinds and characteristics of children's costumes in consideration of their social and cultural backgrounds and particularly, those of children's costumes during the period of Enlightenment following Chosun dynasty and thereafter. Namely, this study focused on children's costume history in view of not adults' costume miniatures but their own concept. It is deemed very significant to review the history of our traditional costumes and thereby, express their decorative features with our contemporary sense. It is results can be summed up as follows; Strictly speaking, the period of Enlightenment can be defined as the one from Gwangwhado treaty in 1876 through annexation of Korea by Japan in 1910, but it may well extend until our emancipation from Japan in 1945. By 1890's, children's costumes remained almost traditional, but since then, the Chimas as well as Jeogori and breast tie began to be narrower. Particularly, Children's Jeogori began to be narrower with their breast tie disappearing gradually. By 1910's, children's costumes had changed much, with the breast tie replaced by the buttons and the longer Jeogoris.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.139-151
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• 2019

This study intends to present the directions for effective up-cycling design using Marquage painting through analysis of trends and the formative characteristics of fashion products. Research was conducted through a literature review (published papers, books and web site contents). Cases were analyzed by examining the contents of web sites of global luxury brands, representative workshops, and social network sites (SNS). The results of the study are categorized as follows, First, Marquage paintings are continuously used by global luxury brands and have developed as an expression of self-ownership and the personalization of one's identity. Second, fashion brands use Marquage painting as a customized service for sales. On the other hand, Marquage paintings are used as a kind of up-cycling to present old goods as brand new ones. Third, the patterns used in Marquage painting were classified into five types: geometric patterns, logo patterns, character patterns, lettering patterns, and art patterns. Moreover, formalization by Marquage patterns is represented by identification, customization, and up-cycling. Finally, to up-cycle the expressive features of Marquage- sustainability, scarcity, storytelling, and originality based on factors of up-cycling need to be reflected.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.1-18
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to analyze and understand the approach of critical fashion by comprehending the appropriation of art as a sociocultural phenomenon that influences contemporary fashion. This study inquired into the relevant literature to explain the theoretical background behind critical fashion, and conducted a case study using exhibition catalogues, exhibition works, articles, fashion magazines, and fashion-related websites in order to examine cases of appropriation strategies. As a subversion of meaning by using an existing transposable object image to deliver an experience unlike the actual image, subversive appropriation in critical fashion takes existing things as they are and rearranges them with the purpose of subverting social values while having its subversive style of appropriation. Referring to a style that focuses on labelling the distance between the subject, that refers and that which is referred to, referential appropriation has been reprogramming existing things with an internal and introspective attitudes. In other words, from an exploitative style of appropriation aimed at expanding the meaning with found in objects by avant-garde fashion designers, to a subversive style of appropriation aimed at subverting meanings with transposable objects by conceptual fashion designers, there has been a change toward the referential style of appropriation aimed at expanding artistic forms with created objects critical fashion designers.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.155-163
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• 2021

This design proposal research is meaningful as Jogakbo can retain the traditional value of the it's design as it becomes a contemporary design proposal. As a specific method of research, history was been investigated to find meaning and formative characteristics defined through prior research under the theme of Jogakbo. Ideas, such as silhouettes, details for design, and the making domestic and foreign designer examples were obtained. The fabric used for the works were recycled from past leather works. All materials are sheep skin. There were various processed surfaces used to avoid monotony. Jogakbo's cotton composition focused on free and radial patterns. The pattern was manufactured using a flat and 3D combination, and the selection of items was mainly made with a simple and light silhouette, so that Jogakbo's details, such as dresses, slip dress, and vests could stand out. Color is an important factor in Jogakbo. However, traditions which are relics of the times, do not need to be preserved in their original form. If changes are inherited with reasonable grounds and directions in line with the changing times, the significance and values are retained are sufficient. It is hoped that these design development studies will continue in the future so that our precious cultural heritage can continue to change and develop positively.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.738-754
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• 2020

As a cultural feature of, the relics of the Royal Tomb of King Muryeong are suitable design content for applying with sophisticated production and delicate molding laser cutting techniques. The purpose of this study is to develop modern bag designs using relics of the Royal Tomb of King Muryeong of Baekje using laser-cutting techniques. First, the historical background and meaning of Baekje's cultural content were explored. Second, the principle of laser-cutting techniques were explored, laser-cutting techniques applied to modern fashion and bag design were examined, and bag design characteristics were analyzed. Third, based on prior research, the criteria for the development of bag design, from which eight bag design were developed that combine modern popularity and functionality utilizing Baekje cultural content and using laser-cutting techniques to apply the textile design developed by researchers in 2013 (modified to match laser-cutting techniques). The research results show that bag were clutch, tote, shoulder, and mini. Gold, silver, brown, beige, and navy colors were arranged, based on black/white contrast. Cow, lambskin, washed snakeskin, mesh, and Saffiano leather were used. For the pattern-applying technique, this study showed that a new digital technique, which is laser-cutting techniques could be combined with contemporary bag designs. Moreover, a bag design was developed that has a modern sense and functionality as well as Korean formativeness, which is significant.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.932-948
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• 2021

Tartan, the woven, checked, and wool textile considered by many to be originally from Scotland, has in fact been in use in a range of forms across numerous cultures and during various historical periods. The characteristic checked feature is due to the assembly of different coloured threads in both warp and weft directions which intersect at 90 degrees in a combination known as a sett. For well over one hundred years, different setts and thus different colour combinations have been associated closely with different geographical regions within Scotland, as well as different clans or families. Tartan-type textiles have reached popularity at various times and those have often been a predicted fashion trend suggested, for example, by contributors to fashion gatherings such as Premier Vision in Paris. Often proposed designs are best considered based on tartan combinations rather than simple reproductions. Promotional terms such as "patched checks" or "textured checks" have been common, and often these have been derived from tartan-type constructions. This paper explores novel pattern design methods by identifying the underlying grid structures and proportions exhibited by various well-known tartan setts. The possibility of pattern development from tartan grids and their manipulations is thus the focus of attention. An insight into the methodology associated with the production of original pattern designs is thus provided.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.16-32
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• 2022

In the intensely competitive global fashion market, the use of cultural elements to enhance design has become increasingly widespread. However, there is a lack of research on challenges and opportunities associated with integrating cultural elements of Minhwa into fashion design. Moreover, diverse approaches to incorporate Korean cultural elements into contemporary fashion designs are still needed. This study aims to reveal the real-world challenges relating to the incorporation of Korean cultural elements, including Minhwa, into fashion design and to clarify the possibility of applying Lin's cultural levels to cultural aspects in accordance with experts' views. To establish a theoretical foundation, the literature review on cultural design and Minhwa studies was conducted. It analyzes Minhwa to gain an understanding of the characteristics associated with different cultural levels. In-depth interviews with fashion industry professionals and Minhwa artists were conducted to ascertain their attitudes toward Minhwa use. The study's major findings were threefold. First, the cultural design facilitates the introduction, promotion, understanding, and maintenance of the culture. Since Minhwa offers rich inspiration linked to Korean culture, Minhwa-related designs can provide new perspectives while still having commercial potential. Second, however, the limitations of existing cultural designs included their being outdated, superficial without interpretation, unsophisticated, or limited. Furthermore, the use of Minhwa is limited since it is difficult to avoid creating superficial and unsophisticated designs in the real world. Third, approaching Minhwa at different cultural levels can promote diverse thinking and reduce the challenges of Minhwa use in design, but the major challenge remains visual expression.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.33-49
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to analyze the expressive elements and techniques of graffiti appearing in the Moschino collection by Jeremy Scott. A theoretical examination of graffiti art and Moschino's creative designer Jeremy Scott was conducted using previous studies and publications. Accordingly, keywords about the expressive elements and techniques of graffiti and Moschino were identified, as follows: expressive elements of 'message (slogan)', 'symbolized letters or forms', 'logo and brand symbol', 'graffiti (scribbles)', 'child-like elements', 'daily element's and expressive techniques of 'using primary colors (color contrast)', 'deformation', 'distortion', 'exaggeration', 'illusion (trompe l'oeil)', 'collage (repetition)', 'simplification (flattening)', and 'borrowing heterogeneous objects'. These keywords were then used to analyze Moschino's collection, comprising seven years of Moschino's collection photographs officially recorded in the fashion magazine Vogue, ranging from the 2014 F/W to 2020 F/W collections. A total of 761 photos were initially collected, from which 561 were selected by the researcher. Expressive characteristics of graffiti in Moschino's collection were analyzed, and identified in the following categories: 'child-like playfulness', 'commercial satire', 'using daily elements', and 'borrowing non-representative techniques'. Accordingly, it was confirmed that expressive characteristics of graffiti were found in the Moschino collection by Jeremy Scott. This study anticipates the possibility of various interpretations from which fashion that communicates closely with contemporary art can be understood.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.806-823
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• 2023

The aim of this study was to analyze the design characteristics of Chinese fashion designer Feng Chen Wang and interpret their implicit meaning from a neo-deconstruction perspective. A review of domestic and foreign literature, outlined the develop- ment of deconstruction and neo-deconstruction, with neo-deconstruction's aesthetic features termed 'traditional fusion', 'positive playfulness', 'open communication', and 'multiple inclusiveness'. These features informed an analysis of Feng Chen Wang's fashion design. Four key findings emerged. First, 'traditional fusion' combines traditional Chinese colors, items, handicrafts, and patterns with modern design to break down boundaries between past and modern, tradition and fashion. Second, 'positive playfulness' promotes creativity and fun, using bright colors, exaggerated accessories, and playing withthe composition of traditional clothes to create a positive atmosphere. Third, 'open communication' emphasizes design that combines practicality and creati- vity in response to consumer needs, incorporating the thoughts arising from individual experiences and interest in social phenomena. Fourth, 'multiple inclusiveness' breaks down boundaries of sexuality, hierarchy, and body shape, embracing various ideas of beauty and respecting uniqueness through design that are seen as available to all. Using a neo-deconstruction perspective, Feng Chen Wang provides novel product planning ideas for Chinese fashion brands and reflects the values and meaning of modern design pursued by contemporary Chinese designers.

• Archives of design research
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.251-258
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• 2004

Today we seem to be flooded with digital culture as the age of information has reached its peak. As fusion culture has been generalized, in which the arts and culture of the East and the West are in harmony, and quality of life has been improved, people are enjoying more abundant cultural benefits than ever. In such a situation, we may lose the origin of our culture and disregard our traditional culture due to the mixture of cultures. In addition, it is necessary at this point to distinguish pure culture from mixed one and to re-illuminate the value of our original culture for the next generation. Therefore, the author took interested in Dongraeyaryu, a large-scale festival in Busan, which has been designated as an important intangible cultural property, and carried out a research for its continuous instruction and activation. among contents such as music, costume, dancing and stage properties that compose intangible cultural property, this study selected costume, which has significant visual effects and large differences in shape between old one and contemporary one, for development. By proposing modernized design of costume preferred by the new generation and in harmony with the masks, this study wished to narrow the generation gap, to direct young people's attention to the learning of tradition and to propose motives that activate the culture of local festival.