• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.518-531
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to research specific dimensional increments of grading and to support to establish a grading system according to the targets of women's wear manufacturers in Korea. For the questionnaire, 91 women's wear brands, which were in higher ranking of sales, were selected, and the age groups were separated into 3: 20's, 30's, and 40's & 50's, according to their customers. The graders of each brand were questioned about specific dimensional increments of grading fur this research. The results of the study were as follows: 1. Using the most common dimensional increments, 3.81cm(1 f inch) and 5.08cm(2 inch) for upper garments and lower garments, the modes of increments and reference increments for each garment section were suggested. 2. For upper garments, the brands for older women made larger increments of waist girth than for bust girth. This was to cover abdominal obesity. Also, the brands made larger increments of girth than for shoulder breadth. 3. For lower garments, the brands for older women made larger increments of waist girth than fur hip girth. It meant the drop value of hip girth minus waist girth was smaller. The breadths of front and back crotch were also wider.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.721-736
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• 2003

As for the purposes of the research: First, on the wearers of snowboard wear on the market, I intend to investigate contents related with purchase, price, brand, style, etc., and grasp requirements and complaints. Second, I intend to know the evaluations of users according to itemized questions on the snowboard wear on the market. Third, I like to provide basic materials by investigating itemized requirements for the development of snowboard wear. On the male & female snowboarders on a skiing ground, I carried out a preliminary investigation in December, 2001, and a main investigation from January to February, 2002. The results are as follows: 1. Many of them purchased imported quality goods, and the rate purchase was high between 20～25 year. Loose two-piece suits of different colors were preferred. The most uncomfortable part proved to be a neck part. 2. The degree of general satisfaction with the snowboard wear on the market was 4.60. And in terms of itemized evaluation, dissatisfaction was found in Clothing construction, facility of laundry and handling, price and brand rather than in style, fiber composition and tactile sensation. 3. In the investigation of the requirements in case of snowboard wear development, the most common requirement was the facility of action. I believe this should be met by study on the choice of pertinent margin and the pattern development.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.709-717
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• 2002

In the apparel industry, the technology has been advanced rapidly. The use of 3D scanning systems fur the capture and measurement of human body is becoming common place. Three dimensional digital image can be used for design, inspection, reproduction of physical objects. The purpose of this study is to develop a method that drafts men's basic bodice pattern from scanned 3D body surface shape data. In order to pursue this purpose the researchers developed pattern drafting algorithm. The 3D scanner used in this study was Cyberware Whole Body Scanner WB-4. The bodice pattern drafting algorithm from 3D body surface shape data developed in this study is as follows. First, convert geometric 3D body surface data to 3D polygonal mesh data. Second, develop algorithm to lay out 3D polygonal patches onto a plane using Auto Lisp program. The polygon meshes are coplanar, and the individual mesh is continuously in contact with next one The bodice front surface shape data in polygonal patches form was lined up in bust and waist levels. The back bodice was drafted by lining up the polygonal mesh in scapula, chest, and waist levels. in the drafts, gaps between polygons were formed into the darts.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.873-889
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• 2014

The goals of this study are to analyze how fashion professionals' attitudes toward Grunge style have changed since the 1990s and to compare aesthetic features of 1990s Grunge style and the style since 2000. By searching Vogue and Women's Wear Daily articles from 1992 to 2014 according to the keyword "Grunge", three collections from the 1990s and 59 collections since 2000 were selected for analysis. Although Grunge collections of the 1990s were harshly criticized by critics and retailers as ugly, the more recent collections have been highly praised for both design and profitability. The common aesthetic features of Grunge style in the 1990s and beyond include loose silhouettes, mix-and-match layerings, plaid patterns, floral prints, and striped patterns. However, Grunge style since 2000 has new features such as ornate fabrics, handcrafted details, a formal and dressy look, and faux plaid flannel shirts in chiffon or organza. These features give the style a more luxurious, feminine, and refined appearance. The results of this study indicate that Grunge style of the 1990s changed high fashion beauty standards and today's designers and consumers prefer to mix various styles to create new ones. They typically do not consider the original spirit or identities of the varied styles.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.5
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• pp.694-705
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• 2021

Forming perceptions and having experiences through digital media is becoming more common than having in-person relationships in digital media environment. This study, which was conducted when Fashion Week transitioned to a digital platform in 2020, focuses on fashion shows that are announced through social media. The purpose of the study is to explore how traditional fashion media change through social media and what their media characteristics are from the perspective of remediation, which has been suggested by Bolter and Grusin (1999) as the logic of change in the new media. The results of the case analysis in this study, based on the definition and logic of remediation outlined through a literature review, are that social media fashion shows are remediated from traditional fashion shows in the manner that they are represented, improved, refashioned, and absorbed. The characteristics of remediation expressed in social-media-based fashion shows were derived from repurposed video content, improved the elements of fashion shows to express the shows in various ways, expanded places within the fashion shows, and decontextualized and visually flattened spatial discontinuity, and from genre transitions and perceptual shifts. Social-media-based fashion shows are becoming a tool to renew the fashion experience and views of fashion and strengthen the authenticity of the brand by interacting with the audience, improving on the spatial limitations of traditional fashion shows, and diversifying fashion presentation methods.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.388-405
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• 2021

This study classifies the compositional methods of power shoulder jackets from 1980 to the present. It analyzes the relevance of jacket details according to how the power shoulder changes and its compositional methods by era. The research subdivides shoulder compositional techniques into seven, based on shoulder variation, sleeve variation, and the body and sleeve combination. The researcher investigates the frequency and trends of composing shoulders and analyzes details pertaining to the silhouette, jacket length, collar shape, and front closure. The most common method of shoulder composition is an angular shoulder variation. The others are a rounded shoulder variation, puffed sleeve, sleeve variation using pattern incision, raglan and kimono sleeves, and a shoulder variation that expanded the angle and width. The frequency differs slightly for each era. The relationship between shoulder compositional methods and details of power shoulder jackets is statistically significant, showing period-related differences. The homogeneity analysis results reveal that the shoulder composition of power shoulder jackets, the times, and details fall into distinct groups. This analysis shows that the silhouette, length, collar, and front closure of the power shoulder jacket differ depending on the power shoulder's compositional methods. Moreover, the shape of the power shoulder jacket is distinctly different. One can use this data to help develop the power shoulder jacket design by reflecting the details of shoulder compositional methods and changing trends over time.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.932-948
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• 2021

Tartan, the woven, checked, and wool textile considered by many to be originally from Scotland, has in fact been in use in a range of forms across numerous cultures and during various historical periods. The characteristic checked feature is due to the assembly of different coloured threads in both warp and weft directions which intersect at 90 degrees in a combination known as a sett. For well over one hundred years, different setts and thus different colour combinations have been associated closely with different geographical regions within Scotland, as well as different clans or families. Tartan-type textiles have reached popularity at various times and those have often been a predicted fashion trend suggested, for example, by contributors to fashion gatherings such as Premier Vision in Paris. Often proposed designs are best considered based on tartan combinations rather than simple reproductions. Promotional terms such as "patched checks" or "textured checks" have been common, and often these have been derived from tartan-type constructions. This paper explores novel pattern design methods by identifying the underlying grid structures and proportions exhibited by various well-known tartan setts. The possibility of pattern development from tartan grids and their manipulations is thus the focus of attention. An insight into the methodology associated with the production of original pattern designs is thus provided.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.881-903
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• 2021

This study aimed to analyze adult men's body sizes and shapes and suggest size specifications to provide preliminary data to academia and industries. A total of 814 adult men aged 30-44 were selected from the 7th Size Korea data, and 55 direct upper body measurement and calculation items were analyzed using SPSS 25.0. In individual Individual differences, thickness, circumference, and width were high, and height and length were low. Height above the waist base line and shoulder dimension decreased in early 40s age group, while height below the waist base line declined as age increased. In addition, buttocks shape changes were found in early 40s age group. According to factor analysis, 'upper body and upper-extremity horizontal size', 'torso height and upper extremity length', 'shoulder dimension', 'upper body length' and 'shoulder angle' were derived. Using clustering analysis, four different body types were classified: i) big abdomen with flat chest, ii) slender with big, raised shoulders, iii) dwarfish with small, droopy shoulders, and iv) obese with large shoulders. 'Slender with big, raised shoulders' was a typical body shape among men aged 30-44. In older participants, the 'big abdomen with flat chest' ratio was low, while 'obese with large shoulders' was more common. This study proposed size specifications by body type considering the above characteristics.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.444-454
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• 2022

Flipped learning research has been applied in various educational fields since 2015 and the educational effects have been discussed in previous literature. In the beauty field, flipped learning research is insufficient; in particular, it is difficult to find research on flipped learning specifically concerning nail beauty education. The purpose of this study is to develop a model for applying flipped learning to nail beauty education which should involve practical training based on theory. Such an approach is considered effective. Data were collected and analyzed focusing on previous studies with flipped learning applied as a research method. The subject of the research is "Nail Color Design 1", a common nail major elective subject at J college. The "Nail Color Design 1" course is a practice-oriented course in the form of theory and practical classes. Consequently, the flipped learning education model for nail beauty was designed by reflecting learners' needs through the ADDIE instructional design model. It was applied based on the education structure of the Pre-class, In-class, and Post-class of the PARTNER instructional learning model. This study deviates from the traditional practical education model, and has educational significance as a practical model in which flipped learning is applied to nail beauty subjects and self-reflection is derived through project practice.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.213-227
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• 2023

To analyze the status and needs of the small- and medium-sized garment manufacturing industry in Busan, this study comprised an online survey of companies and interviews with 14 representatives of the 98 companies. The results are as follows: Approximately 34.7% of the garment manufacturers were located in Geumjeong-gu, Busan. The most common type of work was the contracting factory type. Daily production output was between 100pcs and 300pcs. Production materials comprised 42.9% woven and 24.8% knitted fabrics. Main products were menswear, uniforms, womenswear, casual wear, sports and leisure wear, protective clothes, and children's clothing. The main clients were uniform companies, main factories, wholesale markets, online shopping malls and promotion companies, exporters, and department stores. As a result of a survey on industrial needs with company representatives, their satisfaction with company employees was 57.2%, and the most important factor when hiring employees was job-related competencies, among which the ability to understand the sewing process was the most necessary. In terms of computer software literacy, illustrations and pattern CAD/CAM are required. They thought industry-university cooperation is crucial for advantage for advantage research and product development, as it allows for the sharing knowledge, resources, and especially human resources. The greatest administrative issue were human resources and funding.