• 복식
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• 제61권2호
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• pp.72-87
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• 2011

The 21st century are seeing a large number of performing arts, and one of them, opera is evolving, transforming itself as one of total arts. Besides, the costume in performing art which play a major role in opera's visual impact, characterize figures, set the tone for performance and greatly contribute to the perfection of the stage. Under these circumstances, the study developed designs of stage costumes and built a full-scale production of the Magic Flute, one of three greatest Mozart operas. The opera based on a fiction, is still popular today since it is a fantastic fairy tale introducing moral and ethical lessons. The play's background itself is Egypt. But due to its fairy-take-like storyline, it has been performed focusing on various concepts rather than on costumes prepared through background research. As such, this study conducted research on designs of stage costumes that contains the element of Egypt and also take athleticism and comfort into consideration. The results derived from the study were as follows. First, traditional dresses of ancient Egypt were used as a basis while adding some modem touch in terms of forms or colors, which resulted in a new design. Second, a variety of images were captured using textures and colors that fit the characteristics of attributes of the figures. Third painting techniques were used to help highlight the symbolic image of Egypt-simple, not heavy and extravagant-with fairy-tale-like fantasy.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.514-522
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• 2013

This study reviews the principles for the techniques of Impressionist paintings as well as analyzed contemporary fashion designs with a focus on a motif-building technique based on the laws of a screen equivalent as a visual formative approach. We provide design principles based on fashion design painting techniques. Previous research on the laws of the screen equivalent of Impressionist paintings were studied and a qualitative analysis was conducted on fashion design cases from 2011, 2012 S/S and F/W collections. The analysis resulted in the following outcomes. First, the development of new motifs were found directly correlated to the creativity of design if it was a motif-building design. Second, in the selected fashion design cases, cutting lines and details were covered by motifs and their shapes collapsed in regards to overall visual uniformity so that specific details were hard to identify. Third, clothing shapes are recognized the changing colors of motifs and not through construction pattern lines; therefore, the expressions of diverse visual forms were available without being disturbed by construction pattern lines. This is deemed equivalent to an Impressionist painting style that depicts shapes with colors instead of lines. Lastly, the cases covered in this study have created new visual aspects that replace the stereoscopic spatial depth of clothes with a 'sensuous surface'. The pleasures derived from the sensuous surface are deemed equivalent to the visual pleasures created by Impressionist paintings.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.183-190
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• 2016

A mourning dress is the formal costume that the mourners wear to show civility during the mourning. Traditional funeral rites are the Confucianism's funeral proceeding where the mourners wear according to the National Mourning Dresses System. However, nowadays, the funeral proceedings and mourning dresses are simplified. In result of current design analysis of the mourning dresses for women, the types of the mourning dresses for women are classified by traditional styles and modern styles. Traditional styles include skits and Jeogori make of hemp fabrics, and modern styles include skits and Joegori style, modernized Hanbok style, and Western style, which consist of cardigan, waist skits, jackets, and pants. The modern styles mostly use polyester and the color consists mainly of black and white. The followings propose new designs of mourning dress for women that reflect practicality, flexibility, and diversity. First, transmit the meaning that traditional mourning dress entails Second, change the length and the width of Jeogori and skirt by reflecting the trend of the time and change the designs of the mourning dresses by using the details of the modern styles so that they are equipped with practicality, flexibility, and affordability. Third, pursue diversity by changing the uniformed fabrics and colors used on the existing mourning dresses. This study addresses the drawbacks and the points that need be improved to suggest the designs of the modern mourning dress for women, which reflect the characteristics of Hanbok and cultural traits.

• 복식
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• 제59권10호
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• pp.22-37
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• 2009

The main purpose of this research was to provide an example of a scientific and systematic approach to designing nurses' uniforms. Uniforms for the staff nurses and head nurses at Korea University Medical Centers were designed through the following four steps: research and analyses, design direction establishment, design presentation, and final decision. For the research and analyses, a focused group interview with 14 head nurses were conducted before the actual questionnaires were formed and distributed to 200 nurses at the medical centers. The data collected from 182 among 200 subjects were able to be used for the statistical analyses. As a result, the majority of nurses were not satisfied with the present nurse uniforms. They preferred pants to skirts, and straight pants to tapered pants. Blouses or jackets that slightly cover hips with sleeves reaching above the wrists were also preferred. Many respondents wanted uniforms that were practical and easy to manage. The ideal image of nursing uniforms were feminine, lively, active, light, cool, simple, and modern. According to the research and analyses result, design directions were established and uniform designs were presented to head nurses. Uniforms were designed based on symbols of Korea University and Korea University Medical Centers. Colors including white, pink, and grey were selected to represent the ideal image of nursing uniforms designated by the respondents. Fabrics including polyester(95%) and spandex(5%) blends, polyester(48%), rayon(48%), and spandex(4%) blends, and cotton(100%) were used for making garment samples. Final designs were decided by selecting and modifying the designs presented to the head nurses.

• 복식
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• 제62권4호
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• pp.207-217
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• 2012

The function of the school uniform is to represent the role of a student and also to restrict the scope of action for the student. Many students wear school uniforms for the most of their daily life. So the school uniform is very important for students during the school days. The purpose of this study was to suggest the fundamental information for the development of the school uniform design based on actual wearing conditions and preferred designs. Photos of school uniforms of 61 girls' high schools in Seoul were analyzed. Surveys of actual wearing conditions and preferred designs were investigated. The major conclusions of the study were as the following: 1. Most of the high school girls wore the uniform jackets that had tailored collars, were single breasted, slightly fitted, and that have a medium length between the waistline and hipline. Many students wore skirts with various pleats and knee length. Many school uniforms were navy blue and grey. 2. Many students bought ready-to-wear school uniforms from agencies with their parents. When they bought the school uniforms, they tried it on and confirmed the sizes on their own. However, since they didn't know the size systems, and they had to repair the size and design of the school uniforms. Students felt uncomfortable with how the shoulders and sleeves fit. 3. Uniform Jackets with tailored collars, single breasted, slightly fitted, and a short waistline length were preferred. Pleats skirts with knee length or upper-knee length were preferred. Navy blue and grey colors, and elastic fabrics were preferred. 4. When comparing the actual wearing conditions and preferred designs of school uniforms, there were a few differences in styles, but overall, students preferred shorter lengths of jackets and skirts. It is considered to reflect the fashion trends and the students' pursuit for beauty.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권5호
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• pp.691-703
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• 2013

The costume culture of ladies in late Goryeo is an important and rare source for cultural fashion souvenir design. This study investigates the historical costume design sources of late Goryeo to suggest high quality traditional and practical ornament souvenir designs for female dolls as well as examples of coordination with doll costumes. The costume culture of late Goryeo contained golden Buddhism and a revival of $12^{th}$ century Goryeo costume characteristic after the period of Mongolian influences from the Yuan. The main sources for doll ornament designs are $14^{th}$ century Buddhist paintings, a few ornament relics of Goryeo, ancient literature, and portraits of ladies in the $14^{th}$ century that originated from five doll's traditional ornaments (lotus hairpin, cloud-shaped hairpin, Buddhist flower hair ornament, vase-shaped Binyeo, and bell of animalhuman face) and three wig designs (wigs from Buddhist paintings and portraits, and hairpiece) with bleached gilding silver, silk, various gemstones and synthetic hair. These doll ornament and wig designs imply the symbol of Buddhism, exorcism, and costume culture of $14^{th}$ century Goryeo ladies that can be matched with two doll gowns, half-sleeved jacket, skirt, two Jogoris, apron, under trousers as formal, semi-formal, and town-wear according to the T.P.O of late Goryeo; in addition, five ornaments can be used as owner's ornaments. The partial changing colors and materials due to the characteristics of doll ornament goods as well as better communication between researcher and constructor remain to be improved.

• 복식
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• 제17권
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• pp.137-148
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• 1991

The use of bark cloth, made of the inner bark of certain trees, was widespread along tropical zones from the Africa to the Hawaii encompassing the globe. They include Malaysia, Indonesia, New Guinea, Polynesian Islands and South America. Among them the Hawaiian bark cloth, named Kapa(pronounced as tapa) was rated as the best quality and most admired. It has variety in designs and colors as well as the most sophistcated production methods. The distinct processes of kapa making are composed of two stages. The first is called first beating and it is a preparatory stage to beat the sea-water soaked bast. It was done with a round beater on a stone anvil. The second beating process was carried out with the squared beater and wooden anvil. The strips from the first beating was soaked again in the water and then beaten lightly to break up fibers. The craftmen laid a bundle of strips over the anvil and beat it into pieces of kapa. The second beater of Hawaii was the most characteristic one among bark cloth producing countries. On their surfaces were the engraved patterns, which were creation of theirs. These distinguished designs enabled them to produce the kapa with the thinner and finer texture and an elaboration of impressed designs known as "watermaks". The Hawaiian culture was self-sufficient one : Everything they used was of their own creation until 19th century. Among their inventions of printing designs on kapa are three most important and distinguished processes. They are the overlaying, the cord snapping and the block printing techniques. Their inventiveness as well as self sufficient environment made it possible to develop their fine art of the kapa making. It is said that the mass producing and cheap western technology of loom forced them to gradually abandon their traditional art and as a result this fine and valuable legacy of Hawaiian traditional kapa making technique is all but disappeared. However it is encouraging and heart warming to find that some of the people as well as specialized researchers pined together to form a group to try to reproduce the old kapa and study the traditional art. They consider the kapa as an expression of the ethnic identity with Hawaii's heritage as well as valuable art of human history.

• The Journal of Advanced Prosthodontics
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.333-342
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• 2021

PURPOSE. To evaluate the impact of five different tooth preparation designs on the marginal and internal fit discrepancies of cobalt-chromium (CoCr) crowns produced by computer-aided designing (CAD) and selective laser melting (SLM) processes. MATERIALS AND METHODS. Five preparation data were constructed, after which design crowns were obtained. Actual crowns were fabricated using an SLM process. After the data of actual crowns were obtained with structural light scanning, intaglio surfaces of the design crown and actual crown were virtually superimposed on the preparation. The fit-discrepancies were displayed with colors, while the root means square was calculated and analyzed with one-way analysis of variance (ANOVA), Tukey's test or Kruskal-Wallis test (α = .05). RESULTS. The marginal or internal color-coded images in the five design groups were not identical. The shoulder-lip and sharp line angle groups in the CAD or SLM process had larger marginal or internal fit discrepancies compared to other groups (P < .05). In the CAD process, the mean marginal and internal fit discrepancies were 10.0 to 24.2 ㎛ and 29.6 to 31.4 ㎛, respectively. After the CAD and SLM processes, the mean marginal and internal fit discrepancies were 18.4 to 40.9 ㎛ and 39.1 to 47.1 ㎛, respectively. The SLM process itself resulted in a positive increase of the marginal (6.0 - 16.7 ㎛) and internal (9.0 - 15.7 ㎛) fit discrepancies. CONCLUSION. The CAD and SLM processes affected the fit of CoCr crowns and varied based on the preparation designs. Typically, the shoulder-lip and sharp line angle designs had a more significant effect on crown fit. However, the differences between the design groups were relatively small, especially when compared to fit discrepancies observed clinically.

• 복식
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• 제65권5호
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• pp.62-73
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• 2015

The aim of this research is to propose the final shirt design modified for new senior women that fulfills their emotional and physical needs. The modifications were based on the results of in-depth interviews and literature search, and the study was conducted in order to understand the desires and preferences of senior women, as consumption of outdoor-wear by the group continues to increase. To develop the design of outdoor-wear that satisfies the physical and emotional qualities and preference of the new senior women, six different designs with lines, combined materials, as well as materials that were layered, pleated and draped were proposed using virtual-dressing simulation software. Then, the modified designs were derived from the six original designs by reflecting the opinions collected in the in-depth interviews with eleven women in their 50s. The responses in the interviewed showed a preference for lines, pleats and layers, as these features made the clothes look trendy, gave it a slender-look, and improved the body shape of the women. As the color is the critical factor for outdoor-wear, there was an overwhelming preference for primary colors by the women, which was in contrast to their color preference in general clothes. A sleeve design modification was proposed to convert the half-sleeves to 3/4-long sleeves in order to account for changes in body temperature at menopause, and to satisfy the aesthetic needs for covering wrinkles. Research of new senior outdoor-wear designs will help segment and differentiate strategies for the increasingly fierce competing outdoor market, as well as l provide directions in the design creation process using the simulation of 3D virtual model.

• 복식
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• 제62권2호
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• pp.55-67
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• 2012

Based on the fact that a parody is widely used as one of main methods of creating art, this study focuses on the parodic techniques used by one of the most famous contemporary artists, Cindy Sherman. Her unique techniques, which are shown through parody, provide different aesthetical values to contemporary fashion designs. The purpose of this study is to find out whether or not contemporary fashion designs that use parodies can be presented as creative fashion designs. The study was carried out by analyzing data retrieved from various literatures, dissertations, magazines and the Internet. The period between the late 1990s and 2010 is the time when parodies were widely introduced, this study presents tables, pictures and photographs based on data collected from that period. The result of this study suggests that there are mainly four expressive techniques used to create Cindy Sherman's parodies: female viewed from a male's perspective, pornography and sexual satire, narrative and realistic reproductions, and foreignness and harmony in conflict. This study discovered that based on these four expressive techniques, contemporary fashion can produce the following four results according to their production styles, silhouettes, materials, and colors: the beauty of the retro pinup girl style, the beauty of eroticism and sexual satire, the beauty of history through reinterpretation of the past, and the beauty of compromise through conflict. As described above, this study attempts to seek how techniques of parodies give different aesthetical values whether or not they can become creative fashion design techniques by listing Cindy Sherman's unique expressive techniques in her parodies in relation to contemporary fashion designs.