• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.80-91
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to examine how he successfully connected his ideas of fashion design for art with the commerciality without a conflict about for 40 years. It is expected that this study will be a precedent in the aspect of the symmetry between artistry and commercialization in Issey Miyake's works. We will examine Issey Miyake's idea of fashion design and its development for the commercialization since 1970s that he started to give shape to his ideas in the fashion works to exactly commercialize in the market. 1. Re-creation of tradition(a piece of cloth): throughout the 1970s, Miyake continued to experiment with a variety of Eastern design elements. The elements of Japanese or oriental tradition made him to be at the very center of supreme of the world of fashion. He took advantages of his identity, and developed the tradition for mass produce. 2. Design for mass(Pleats Please): Miyake decided to make clothes for the people, not only for the top class of the society. This thought developed the designs for the mass, which were functional, universal for the modem buyer, and accessible to a wide market. He realized his ideal by the medium of pleats, which were made through industrial processes, while he tried variously the aspect of formative of the pleats in the collections. His designs concept is summarized by the industrial product design and anonymous design. 3. Innovation of manufacturing system(A-POC): Miyake in 1999 developed A-POC. A-POC is used modern computers in conjunction with traditional technology. A-POC does not make only a new cloth but also makes a new manufacturing system of clothes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.505-518
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• 2022

3D printing technology, also known as additive manufacturing(AM), has not been actively used in the clothing industry despite its potential for economic, environmental, and labor efficiency. Therefore, this study aims to propose a new 3D printing method for the clothing industry, which will be more readily accessible. This roll-type printing method can print wide-sized patterns at once using a 3D modeling program and a FDM 3D printer and help overcome the limitations imposed by the size of the printer. Then, to demonstrate the practical application cases of this printing method, bags of three designs were developed. Prior to product development, a thickness test was performed for stable printing using TPU(Thermoplastic Poly Urethane) filament, and a thickness of 0.45 mm was found to be most suitable for it. Next, the time efficiency test showed that the roll-type printing method takes less time compared to the general printing method in printing wide-sized patterns. Based on these tests, three bags, , and , were developed to confirm the suitability of the roll-type printing method for product development. The advantages of 3D roll-type printing can lie in overcoming of the spatial limitation, and the environmental sustainability as it can reduce waste from the production process. This study is significant in that it presents a new 3D printing method to improve the space limitations and time inefficiency of 3D printers.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.694-706
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• 2022

This study focusses on the development of a motion-sensing smart leggings prototype with the help of a module that monitors motion using a fiber-type stretch sensor. Additionally, it acquires data on Electrocardiogram (ECG), respiration, and body temperature signals, for the development of smart clothing used in online exercise coaching and customized healthcare systems. The research process was conducted in the following order: 1) Fabrication of a fiber-type elastic strain sensor for motion monitoring, 2) Positioning and attaching the sensor, 3) Pattern development and three-dimensional (3D) design, 4) Prototyping 5) Wearability test, and 6) Expert evaluation. The 3D design method was used to develop an aesthetic design, and for sensing accurate signal acquisition functions, wearability tests, and expert evaluation. As a result, first, the selection or manufacturing of an appropriate sensor for the function is of utmost importance. Second, the selection and attachment method of a location that can maximize the function of the sensor without interfering with any activity should be studied. Third, the signal line selection and connection method should be considered, and fourth, the aesthetic design should be reflected along with functional verification. In addition, the selection of an appropriate material is important, and tests for washability and durability must be made. This study presented a manufacturing method to improve the functionality and design of smart clothing, through the process of developing a prototype of motion-sensing smart leggings.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.291-301
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• 2010

Today Korean clothing companies are experiencing difficulties in the global market due to unfavorable business conditions including poor production environments, labor shortage, rising costs, the further opening of the domestic distribution market, and increased competition among them. As a result, this has caused many of Korean clothing companies to transfer their production bases abroad in search of relatively inexpensive labor force, instead of using domestic plants. This study attempted to examine how Korean clothing companies perceive production environments and labor standards with regard to their offshore outsourcing. In such an attempt, in-depth interviews were conducted with 24 brand-name clothing firms. Those interviewed firms were the brands for the domestic or foreign market that were found to produce more than 200,000 pieces of clothing per year, and also the group of interviewees included some promotion service providers. The key findings from this study are as follows: First, a large number of the interviewed clothing companies were found to manage their foreign contract manufacturers by "visiting their factories regularly on a seasonal basis" or "stationing their personnel in factory for management purposes." Second, in relation to quality control in their foreign manufacturers, the most frequent response was to "have personnel stationed in those manufacturers." A smaller number of the clothing companies answered that they had "engaged their production management teams in quality control from time to time," or "used their inspectors to inspect products." Third, when asked about labor standards in foreign contract manufacturers, the largest number of the clothing companies responded, "we apply our own standards." The results of this study suggest that most of domestic clothing companies still use offshore sourcing just as a means of reducing their initial labor costs. However, in the continuously changing environment of the global clothing industry, clothing businesses are required to escape from the early phases of their manufacturing environments and set up more globalized standards.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.2
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• pp.190-203
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• 2015

The fashion industry has been rearranged by Global SPA brands (like ZARA and H&M), which are powerful retailers that integrate the value chain ranging from manufacturing to sales. SPA brands can offer good quality of clothing at a reasonable price by cutting the margin between the supply chain. They are also called fast fashions since they make expedited efforts to respond to market trends and consumers. Despite the slow growth of the fashion industry in Korea, as global SPA brands rapidly expand market share, traditional fashion companies have launched several SPA brands such as MIXXO and SPAO (E-LAND), 8SECONDS (CHEIL INDUSTRIES). The few academic studies on this subject are focused on the analysis of secondary data such as news and books. The current research is qualitative and empirical attempts to explore the success factor of SPA brands with analysis of 1:1 in-depth interviews with experts who have worked for global SPAs such as Uniqlo, H&M, and ZARA, based on the grounded theory. The main phenomenon was shown to be that global SPA brands were popular since they offer a variety of products with a large assortment at reasonable and cheap prices in a large scale and multifunctional retail store. Most of them displayed main phenomena that can be realized due to the purchasing cycle of clothing that is shorter with consumers' regarding clothing as consumables. Global SPA brands had three types of marketing strategy: sellable product, sales strategy according to consumer response, and multifunctional stores. Each global SPA brand developed marketing strategies based on core competency and national conditions. The three success factors shorten the consumer decision making process of clothing. This study concludes with implications for practitioners of SPA brands born in Korea.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.151-162
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• 2012

The industry-wide development of digital technologies has also affected the textile and fashion industries immensely. The applications of 3D technology, virtual reality, and/or augmented reality systems have helped to create novel fashion brands based on the marriage of IT and textile/fashion industries. 3D digital virtual clothing systems have been developed to help the textile and fashion industries in terms of the planning, manufacturing, marketing and sales sectors. So far, most of the development effort for the 3d virtual clothing systems has been focused on the woven fabrics. The characteristics of woven fabrics differ from those of knitted fabric. Since the physical structures and mechanical properties of the knitted fabrics are definitely different from those of woven fabrics, the simulation process for the knitted fabrics should follow different approaches. The loops in a knitted fabric deform easily. The deformation results in a readily stretchable fabric appearance. Cloth simulation mostly employs models that approximate the mechanical properties of linear elastic planes. This simulation scheme does not, however, describe well enough the behavior of knitted fabrics, which deviate largely from the linear isotropic material characteristics. This study aims at characterizing the tensile deformation and surface textures of a knitted fabric product. Tensile deformation curves for the wale, course, and bias direction are analyzed. The surface texture of the knitted fabric is analyzed by using a 3-dimensional scanning device.

• Smart Media Journal
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• v.12 no.7
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• pp.43-51
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• 2023

As online transactions increase, the image of clothing has a great influence on consumer purchasing decisions. The importance of image information for clothing materials has been emphasized, and it is important for the fashion industry to analyze clothing images and grasp the materials used. Textile materials used for clothing are difficult to identify with the naked eye, and much time and cost are consumed in sorting. This study aims to classify the materials of textiles from clothing images based on deep learning algorithms. Classifying materials can help reduce clothing production costs, increase the efficiency of the manufacturing process, and contribute to the service of recommending products of specific materials to consumers. We used machine vision-based deep learning algorithms ResNet and Vision Transformer to classify clothing images. A total of 760,949 images were collected and preprocessed to detect abnormal images. Finally, a total of 167,299 clothing images, 19 textile labels and 20 fabric labels were used. We used ResNet and Vision Transformer to classify clothing materials and compared the performance of the algorithms with the Top-k Accuracy Score metric. As a result of comparing the performance, the Vision Transformer algorithm outperforms ResNet.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.43-52
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to present the plan for activation and rationalization of production of ladies' jacket and provide basic materials for improvement of the development of technologies in relation to the productivity improvement of ladies' jacket and the achievement of high quality product. For this purpose, this study attempted to investigate the present situation of jacket manufacturing process. The data is related with local ladies' jacket manufacturing companies in Seoul snd Kyonggi area. The results of this study are as follows. 1. 87.8% of the business firms responded that they acquired the productive process of jacket based on their own knowhow and 80.5% was aware of the need for the analysis of each process. The highest proportion of the business firms(65.9%) pointed out that the advantage of process analysis was the alleviation of the production time. 2. The jacket manufacturing process was made up of 4 stages such as the process of frontal/rear plate $\rightarrow$ the process of accessories $\rightarrow$ the process of completion $\rightarrow$ the process of finishing in a broad sense but composed of a total of 19 stages in detail. 3. Attachment of the sleeves(73.2), attachment of the collar(41.5%) and the formation of the overall silhouette(22.0%) were raised as the challenge in manufacturing ladies' jacket. 4. Most of the sewing business firms made use of the method of completing the collar and then stitching the outer material and the inner collar, and the line of the bodice and the outer collar as the method of stitching the tailored collar. and many of them used the method of completing the collar and then inserting it between the line of the bodice and the outer material and stitching it as the method of stitching the stand collar. They had a preference for the method of completing the sleeve and connecting it to the bodice as the method of stitching the sleeve. and used the method of treating the margin to seam of semi-lined and unlined jacket by treating it with the bias tape.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.61-66
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• 2002

Recently PET fabrics woven by high sensitive PET yams were used as a high sensitive clothing. Such high sensitive PET woven fabrics for clothing are passing through various processes, and are influenced by processing tension and heat, it makes the physical properties of PET yarns changing and makes the defects of PET fabric. Therefore many difficulties are faced to decide processing conditions for making high sensitive PET fabric. But few research related to the processing conditions of PET yarns and issue point for producing high sensitive clothing was only performed. In this study, POY and SDY of PET manufactured in seven filament manufacturing companies are selected, and their physical properties in each layers of filament cake divided by 50000m are measured and analyzed. Especially, wet and dry shrinkages according to the various wet and dry heat temperatures are analyzed for supplying basic physical data of PET yam and for enhancing PET yarn quality used for the high sensitive clothing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.708-715
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• 2016

This study researched the sizing system of dress form for apparel manufacturing in the domestic market. It aims to be used as basic data for the development of a dress form that could be used by manufacturers of senior men's clothing. Research focused on the sizes presented on the homepages of 17 dress form manufacturers in the USA, France, Japan, and Korea. Body measurement was made for senior men in their 50's over men (n=134). Six items were measured by the 'Standard body measurement of Size Korea'. The type of dress form in the domestic market can be classified into half-body type (upper body type and lower body type), torso, and whole-body type; in addition, each type is divided into upper arm, arm, crotch, and thigh. Korean dress form manufacturers produced/sold diverse kinds (size 7-9) for women; however, they used large/small sizes or product sizes for men without defining sizes. The chest size (93-105cm) has not been standardized while the rates of waist circumference, hip circumference and shoulder length (in accordance with the chest size) were all different. Global dress form brands manufactured reflecting body dimensions by the state organization USA ASTM. Japan JIS. For this reason, most domestic clothing businesses depend on imported dress forms. Especially, there were no dress forms for senior men. With the growing market for seniors, it would be necessary to produce senior dress forms for clothing production that reflect the body shapes and sizes of seniors.