• 복식
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• 제61권2호
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• pp.72-87
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• 2011

The 21st century are seeing a large number of performing arts, and one of them, opera is evolving, transforming itself as one of total arts. Besides, the costume in performing art which play a major role in opera's visual impact, characterize figures, set the tone for performance and greatly contribute to the perfection of the stage. Under these circumstances, the study developed designs of stage costumes and built a full-scale production of the Magic Flute, one of three greatest Mozart operas. The opera based on a fiction, is still popular today since it is a fantastic fairy tale introducing moral and ethical lessons. The play's background itself is Egypt. But due to its fairy-take-like storyline, it has been performed focusing on various concepts rather than on costumes prepared through background research. As such, this study conducted research on designs of stage costumes that contains the element of Egypt and also take athleticism and comfort into consideration. The results derived from the study were as follows. First, traditional dresses of ancient Egypt were used as a basis while adding some modem touch in terms of forms or colors, which resulted in a new design. Second, a variety of images were captured using textures and colors that fit the characteristics of attributes of the figures. Third painting techniques were used to help highlight the symbolic image of Egypt-simple, not heavy and extravagant-with fairy-tale-like fantasy.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제42권1호
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• pp.40-57
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• 2018

This study investigated the design practice model based on the creative fashion designer's methodology in fashion education. 'The Design Cycle' was the criterion used to analyze the design method of Demna Gvasalia who is one of the outstanding contemporary designers. After that, this study's practice model was then developed and experimented to verify its effectiveness in design practice as based on Gvasalia's method where ready-to-wear products were firstly dissembled then re-constructed with new designs created based on re-constructed results. To test its effectiveness, a student oriented design workshop was held to extract design results through the practice model; in addition, the students also conducted a survey to evaluate the effectiveness of the method. According to the self-evaluation result, the participants generally accept the design efficiency through the distinctive process. An evaluation by three fashion experts was also conducted. Experts assessed that the model is recommendable for seniors having knowledges on 'Construction', it is appropriate to deal with the trickled-down copying trend that could promote student interest and generate separate results according to different visions. Therefore, it could be accepted that the applicability of this study's practice model was confirmed.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권6호
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• pp.687-696
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• 2006

This study aims at analyzing the silhouette, dress patterns and detail of Empire Era(1789-1825), and making use of this results for the modern stage costume construction. The dresses of Empire era were divided into X and H style. The results revealed that the bust girth of X style group was bigger than that of H style group. Such patterns as high waistline, puff sleeve, train, etc. which appeared during the peak time of Empire style period were more remarkable for H style group. This obviously indicated that more epical characteristics were observed for H style group than for X style group. Similarly to silhouette analysis, based on the results from cluster analysis conducted to put similar groups together, two groups were formed - a visually differentiated and complex group and a simple group in the absence of detail. Most dress details from Empire period had simple embellishments. Comparison of the average size of the patterns between two groups indicated that waist front length of H style was shorter than that of X style. Front interscye was even greater than back width for both groups. Such trend was quite different from today's pattern in which back width is larger than front width based on body measurements. Preference for big breast during the period was reflected on dress patterns and the side length of front side goes across the back much further for bodice patterns. Two representatives were selected and reproduced using materials similar to those of real dresses of Empire style, following two times fit test.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.614-623
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop a wedding dress basic torso pattern and sleeve pattern considering good fit and aesthetic for figures of Korean brides in their 20s. For the research method, 3 women in their 20s who has the body size of ${\pm}$ S.D range of average figure and dress form suggested by 'the 5th human body measurement' of Size Korea were selected as the test group. The evaluators are 8 clothing construction majors, and the evaluation items included total 22 questions related to torso and total 10 questions related to sleeves. The evaluation was made using 5 Likert point scale. 4 prototypes for basic dress pattern were selected through the literature search. After compare analyzing design methods of prototypes, the real wedding dresses were made in the average size of women in their 20s and the dresses were tried on for the assessment. The data was analyzed using SPSS 18.0 Program to examine average, standard deviation and significant differences between basic patterns. Based on the results of the first and the second try-on assessments, a new wedding dress basic pattern with maximized strengths of compared prototypes was completed. The details of result follows. As for dress torso basic pattern, A pattern, which had the highest overall silhouette satisfaction and scores in basic pattern analysis and try-on assessments, was selected as the prototype, and a research basic pattern reflecting strengths of each basic pattern was developed. As for dress sleeve basic pattern, B pattern, which had the highest overall silhouette satisfaction and scores in basic pattern analysis and try-on assessments, was selected as the prototype, and a research basic pattern reflecting strengths of each basic pattern was developed. In this study, a wedding dress basic pattern considering good fit and aesthetic for figures of Korean brides in their 20s was suggested. It is expected that the basic pattern will be used by continuously developing dress market and ready-made wedding dress manufacturers as well as in educational institutes.

• 복식
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• 제54권2호
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• pp.105-119
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• 2004

Cultural hybridization and global cross-fertilization, begun since the 1990s, mean the hybrid mixture of the low-class popular arts and the high-class fine arts and have found expression in intertextuality by means of the thinking system of de-constructuralist post-modernism. This study was intended to investigate the artistic intertextuality between fashion and art frontiere, especially between such fields as 'animation', 'music', and 'performing arts' and 'fashion', which shows the greatest characteristic of the phenomenon that the non-mainstream culture flows into the mainstream culture. It also aimed to investigate the intertextuality between 'technology' and 'fashion' as the delivery room of the youth culture and copycat culture due to the benefit of technologies since the 20th-century digital revolution. Animation as the neo-pop art with the popular code coming to the forefront in the 21th century integrated high-class fashion and low-class fashion into one through the combination of fashion and humor, and the musical element referring to the social difference of the cultural field and the social strata is becoming the 21th-century fashion icon through its fusion with the pictorial tendency along with the leisure-time life of the non-mainstream strata. In terms of intertextuality in performing arts, fashion style performs an important role in the presentation of performing arts and since the de-construction of the fin-de-ciecle form and its fusion with media have taken place, fashion works become and element of the origin that has an influence on a series of film, dance, dramatic elements and the like. The paradigm of technology made it socially and culturally possible to achieve the architecture of clothing system necessary for fashionable technical clothing by allowing the possibility of imitation, the function of technology to form popular culture. The intertextual tendency in the 21th-century fashion began from the de-constructive phenomenon of existing norms and now takes the multicultural character of surpassing a certain domain or concept. And it positions itself as the total art of spearheading the low-class culture and the non-mainstream culture as the hybrid domain of mainstream and non-mainstream cultures or high-class and low-class cultures.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.93-104
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• 2003

This study investigated clothing shopping propensity and consumer awareness of Chinese adult men to provide necessary basic data for effective construction to cope with inroads into Chinese men's wear market. Research subjects were Chinese men in big five city (Beijing, Shanghai, Dalian, Harbin, Guangzhou). Returned 863 questionnaires were analyzed by mean, factor analysis, ANOVA, Duncan's Multiple Range, regression analysis with SPSS 10.0. Results of this research were as follows: 1. Chinese men's apparel shopping propensity factors were analyzed by four groups, such as fashion toward propensity, consume propensity, brand loyalty propensity, and casual preference propensity. 2. Consume propensity among 4 factors influenced most on consumer buying awareness. Brand loyalty propensity among 4 factors influenced most on consumer brand awareness. Fashion toward propensity influenced most on consumer fashion awareness. 3. According to region, there were significant differences to four grouped apparel shopping propensities. Harbin, Guangzhou were indicated higher fashion toward propensity than other areas. Guangzhou was indicated higher consume propensity than Dalian. Dalian was showed lower brand loyalty propensity than other areas. Beijing was showed higher casual preference propensity than Guangzhou. According to income, there were significant differences to four apparel shopping propensities. Highest income group was showed higher fashion toward propensity than other income. The higher men earned income, the higher brand loyalty propensity. Highest income group was showed lower casual preference propensity than lowest income.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2017

The purpose of this research is to industrialize and to localize traditional culture resources of Andong by developing festival costumes related to 'Andong Mask Dance Festival'. We tried several methods to deliver meanings and images of festival costumes, as followings. Frist, from April, 2009 to October, 2012, we created the new design of the festival costumes after consulting with 7 festival experts about the conditions and characteristics of 'Andong Mask Dance Festival'. The festival costume design is characterized by the detachable parts of clothing based on Han-bok style, the front and back of bodice, right and left side of both sleeves, and pockets, which can be tied up with strings. Therefore the consumers can choose and attach the part they want. Secondly, the newly created festival costumes were evaluated appropriately to the consumer's satisfaction, implementation, practicality, and long-term development possibility according to the survey of 85 participants who were, in fact, wearing the festival costumes in the festival. The results are as follows: Frist, festival costumes are based on Korean traditional costumes, and it appears wearing object as festival costumes. Secondly, traditional beauty and modern beauty are well matched up, so men and women of all ages are possible to wear. Thirdly, size of costume can be controlled, so it's easy to wear. Finally, construction method is very simple. The possibility of long-term development by various material development is needed.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.87-104
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to understand the distributions of fashion market and it's characteristics by investigating the attributes and changes of three representative fashion markets i. e. Chungjang Street Market, Underground Shopping arcades, Department Stores in Kwangju Metropolitan city. This study might contribute to the construction of more attractive fashion markets and also to consumer convenience by providing information about fashion. The method of investigation is by direct market visiting and interview from 2000. 7. 11 until 7. 30. The result is as follows; 1. Chungjang Street: This is the most famous and fashionable area, situated mainly on Chungjang street and Hwangkum-dong. The various kind of designer's boutiques, national brands, wedding shops, multi-shops etc. take place. Teenagers and people in their early twenties are the main customers. This point should be born in mind in a strategy of marketing. 2. Underground Shopping arcades: This market is open to customers of all ages and to the passengers crossing the streets and the purposeful visitors, even in rainy or snow days. However it is hard for novices to find it. 3. Department Stores: There are three department stores which are very competitive with each other by granting not only spacious and comfortable shopping areas but also places for children and cultural activities. The strategy of exhibiting unique items unparalleled in it's quality, might be needed with providing a comfortable parking lot, high quality commodes, appropriate sales program and more effective sales managements.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제43권5호
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• pp.117-130
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• 2005

Western clothing is adjusted to the figures of the human body unlike Korean traditional clothes. For this adjustment, we need a method, known as dart, to reasonably adjust a wide circumference to curves of the human body. So far, there has been some research in the aspect of clothing engineering on how to decide darts of skirts or trousers, but no theoretical research has yet been conducted on how to decide the number and amount of dart, which has caused difficulties in beginners' understanding of dart. Futhermore, there is no consistent drawing method for the number and amount of darts in existing teaching and teaming materials. Therefore, to develop teaching and teaming methods for darts, this study identified the amount and number of darts for waist girth of 66-72cm and a hip girth of 86-102cm. When the difference between the waist girth and the hips girth, including margins, is above a minimum of 26cm, two darts can be designed, but when the difference is below 24cm, one dart is necessary. The amount of darts increases by 0.5cm for every 2cm increase of the hip girth to the waist girth. In addition, as darts become longer, the cutting of the waist line becomes smoother. For one, rather than two, darts the curve of the waist line is steeper. Based on the above results, it was assured that when belts are curved through adjustment to the waist line of skirts or slacks, their composition can be stable. Therefore, in basic teaching about slacks and skirts, the number and amount of the darts should be designed according to the difference between the girths of the waist and the hip. This difference should be a minimum of 24cm, but if it is below 24cm, the number of darts needed is one.

• 한국가정과학회지
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.14-27
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to identify the ritual dress used by the 12 religious bodies of Dankun followers to help understand the teachings of these currently operating religious groups in Korea. The findings from the survey and related literatures are used to analyze the characteristics of these ritual dresses in terms of their items, construction, form, and color. The results of the study are as follows: first, most of the religious groups of Dankun followers have established the code for ritual dresses and they are named as 'chaebok'(제복, sacrificial robes), 'yebok'(예복, ceremonial dress), 'chungbok'(정복, formal attire), 'pubbok'(법복, Buddhist formal dress), or 'tobok'(도복, Taoist garments). The official headgear is usually named as 'chaemo'(제모), 'soogun'(수건), 'moja'(모자), or 'yoogun'(유건, 儒巾). Though, there are some groups which do not use any specific names for headgear. Second, the ritual dresses of most groups are composed of the 'hanbok'(한복,韓服) or usual Western-style dress, a traditional outer wear, 'po'(포,袍), and a headgear, as a basic attire. Third, the traditional 'hanbok' is worn as a base garment and an outer wear is worn above. The different types of outer wear are used: mostly 'chaksu jueui jikyoun po'(착수주의직령포, 窄袖周衣直領袍) for men and 'kwangsu jikyoung po'(광수직령포, 廣袖直領袍) and other various styles for women. The headgear from the ancient times are worn by both men and women. Fourth, the most frequently-used color for ritual dress is white for both men and women's dress. The colors from the Yin and Yang ideology are also used in the ritual dresses. Finally, the kinds of materials are not considered as an important element for the ritual dresses.