• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.13 no.2
• /
• pp.50-65
• /
• 2009

The main purpose of this study is to identify characteristics of shapes of John Galliano's Dior Collection as the chief executive designer of Christian Dior Maison during $1996{\sim}2007$ after he showed himself in Paris in 1990. This study was based on the analyses of John Galliano's design trends of his collections, the pictures of his works in Christian Dior's collection, real works, documents and fashion magazines, newspapers, mass media, internet sites and other visual materials. The study identified characteristics of shapes in Dior Collection until 07/08 F/W as the chief executive designer of Christian Dior Maison, and the design trends before his post-Paris period. Followings are the conclusions of the study. First, Galliano was open to any types of cultures as a liberalist, and also respectful to the tradition or principles. He led the fashion business with new trends by exploring both sides. Second, he succeeded in commercializing his avant-garde feature. Especially, His creativity changed the image of Christian Dior to younger and more casual one. Third, born in England and worked in French, he always took both English (Victorian Style) and French(Napoleon era, Femme Fatal style) sides, and showed excellent formulation that the times needed by combining topical Chinese, Japanese, Egyptian styles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.67 no.2
• /
• pp.68-87
• /
• 2017

The New Look, which Christian Dior presented in 1947, has been a source of inspiration for contemporary fashion designers, as well as designers for the House of Dior, and has a great influence on them. The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze the aesthetic characteristics of Christian Dior's New Look and the New Look that Christian Dior House designers reinterpreted. The subject and the scope of this study were limited to Christian Dior and the New Look designed by Gianfranco $Ferr\acute{e}$, John Galliano, and Raf Simons who are regarded as worthy successors. The research method was a literature review on previous studies on Christian Dior and related literatures to examine the history of the House of Dior and the aesthetic characteristics of the New Look presented by Christian Dior. Then, an empirical study was conducted through the analysis of collection photographs from 1989 to 2016 that were gathered from the Mode et Mode and Hi Fashion, and websites (British Vogue, Firstview). The results of the study were as follows. First, the aesthetic characteristics of Christian Dior's New Look in 1947 used femininity to express an elegant and beautiful woman, structural property to render the contours of a woman's body, and innovation that changed the formal and gloomy social atmosphere in the post-war years. Second, the aesthetic characteristics of the New Look by Christian Dior were compared with those of the New Look made by designers for the House of Dior. The elegant femininity of Dior can be seen as gorgeous femininity, and sensual femininity, minimalistic femininity, structurality is represented by the spatial structurality of Dior and $Ferr\acute{e}$, the organic structure of Galliano, and the orthodox structure of Simons. Moreover, Dior's retro innovativeness appeared to be $Ferr\acute{e}^{\prime}s$ androgyny innovation, Galliano's deconstructive innovation, and Simons' romantic futuristic innovation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.51 no.8
• /
• pp.43-49
• /
• 2001

Galliano's works showed at Dior Collection in 1997 which was held for the 50th anniversary of New Look got a good evaluation in the sense of expressing the modern taste as well as reflecting the spirit of Dior. The purpose of this study is focused on observing how to adapt the Dior's spirit. to Galliano's own design and what is the factor to let us feel his works modern. Galliano's fifty works in that Collection are analyzed by content analysis. The result is as followed : Galliano created his fabulous and modern works by four ways such as using various ethnic details, new way of fabric usage, new construction. and differentiated color harmony from Dior's. This result also includes the methodological model to adapt to design process.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.15 no.5
• /
• pp.825-837
• /
• 2007

To analyze the design of Christian Dior, 216 pieces of Dior's works were collected and studied from the COLLECTION(Seoul: Dong Ah TV) from 2003 to 2005. The result is as follows. In recent three year period, Christian Dior maintained the feminine image and implemented different additions such as sexy, ethnic, avant-garde and casual image in every season. Also, to reflect a new trend or fashion sense, images of ethnic, retro, hippie or vintage were applied. In using color, different main color(YR, R, Y, BG, RP, B) were chosen every season to pursue variations. For the pattern usage, feminine beauty was presented by numerous applications of flowered pattern. Also the practice of pattern and hue in different rations in every season pursued variations in design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.50 no.2
• /
• pp.59-80
• /
• 2000

In February 1947, Christian Dior startled the world with his spring collection. He transformed the unflattering square shouldered outline of women's wartime fashion overnight. It was not only fashion that made a pivotal point for opulence and elegance, The style of architecture, furniture, glass, and silverware also made a radical change. The new style emerged after war called " organic modernism'. This study is to define the visual characteristics of fashion, architecture, furniture and craft after World War II and examine the social factors and aesthetics that generated a new style. The common asthetic characteristics are freedom, abstraction of symbolic from, asymmetry, and exaggeration of form. The social factors, values and aesthetics are economic reconstruction and renaissance of design , technical development and new materials, fredom and optimistic view after the holocaust of war, and organic aesthetics and humanism.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.14 no.3 s.62
• /
• pp.457-468
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study was to understand fashion trend and characteristics by finding out the influences of crossover on modern fashion coordination through the identification of crossover coordination trend and characteristics. With a review of the literature, this study analyzed crossover coordination according to the types of expression methodology, periodical changes and designer's tastes that appeared through the collections of the six representative designers from 1996 to 2004. The results of this study were as follows. As a result of analysis of our sources, we realized that crossover coordination was shown most frequently in 1997 and Christian Dior was the designer who used crossover coordination most frequently. Among lots of crossover coordination cases, most of the cases are the coordination with different materials. In our results, trends of crossover coordination in materials appeared again about every five years cycle. Christian Dior combined different elements through silhouette and material, Dolce & Gabbana combined images and Jean Paul Gaultier combined different elements in the aspect of purpose and wearing configuration.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
• /
• v.2 no.1 s.1
• /
• pp.34-45
• /
• 2004

Hair styles which independently coexist by transcending the time and space under the environment of highly developed information and communication technology of recent years, were analyzed. Moreover the concerned trends of art which influenced on these styles were introduced in this study. Through IT based information exchange produced new hair styles which have the technological images. The characteristics of these hair styles are investigated also. For the examination of yearly trends, hair styles in fashion collections of Yves Saint Larent during 1962 to 1999 were examined and classified. The results show that time variated trends are appeared in this period. For the analysis of the trends of hair styles featuring technological images, hair styles in fashion collection of Christian Dior, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Jean Paul Gaultier and Chanel in the early 2000s are quoted.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.32 no.1
• /
• pp.12-23
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is in planning clothing and bag design and VMD. For this purpose, the pret-a-porter fashion collection is divided into the following sectors: brands, years, and seasons, focusing on the design elements. The results of this study are as follows: 1. It is these three ways that determine the relevance of clothing and bag design planning. first, we have analyzed design properties analogously with one design element, like Louis Vuitton. Second, we considered design properties analogously with two design elements, like Chanel, Gucci, Prada. Third, we examined design properties analogously with three design elements, like Christian dior, Fendi, Etro. 2. The comparison of clothing and bag design properties year by year shows that they were mainly designed with an analogous aspect with pattern and decoration. 3. Clothing does well to match a bag between analogous design properties of design elements to express similarity coordination and between contrast design properties of design elements to express plus one coordination or crossover coordination. 4. The aspect of coordination of clothing and bags year by year is different period. This is because of clothing and bag design's change according fashion trend. 5. S/S coordination of clothing and bags is effective to present plus one coordination or crossover coordination. And F/W coordination of clothing and bags is effective to present similarity in coordination.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.32 no.10
• /
• pp.1487-1496
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to provide guidance to plan bag design with an analysis of design properties of bags of famous overseas brands in a pret-a-porter fashion collection. For this purpose, the pret-a-porter fashion collection from 2001 S/S to 2005 F/W is divided into the following sectors: brands, years, and seasons, focusing on the design elements. The reference for the actual study was 773 pictures of bags that were collected of Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Christian Dior, Prada, Fendi and Etro collections. The results of this study are as follows. With regard to the character of the bag design classified by brand, the design property was embossed with all design elements. Therefore, we can use design elements to express design property, like bag design of famous overseas brands. With regard to the changes of bag design year by year, it was changed with almost all of the design elements. Therefore, it is noted that bag design do well to reflect the fashion trends of the year with almost all design elements. With regard to design properties of seasonal bags, bag design properties which are popular in the S/S season are circle form, small size, lively colors and so on. On the other hand, bag design properties which are popular in the F/W season are common form, large size, quiet colors and so on. Therefore, it is noted that bag design do well to reflect the seasonal trends.