• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.202-209
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• 2009

Hakka is a very special sub-ethnic group in China, which was formed during several migrations in Chinese war history. Today the majority of Hakka people, living in the boundary between Jiangxi, Guangdong, and Fujian province, still keep a quite old custom and culture. The bell hat for children is a unique and splendid illustration. We have imposed researches and studies in local area a lot and interviewed the local crafts-women to get to know more about bell hat. We are trying to describe the decorations on the bell hat, silver items and embroidery respectively, and then give an overall analysis of Chinese auspicious culture that the motifs of decorations have contained.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.296-308
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to understand Qipao, that Chinese traditional women's cloth, and analysis the aesthetic characteristics of that. Joining WTO in 2002 and 2008 Beijing Olympic made China get the attention by the world and get the opportunity that advent of China style. Chinese fashion cultural contents have abundant meanings in internal or external, therefore characteristics aesthetic of Chinese traditional fashion had much influence in world fashion design. Qipao that has influence in contemporary fashion design could be used special fashion design data for China market. A variety of literature and prior researches for Qipao's history and transition process was studied. Internal and external documents, fashion magazines, internet information were investigated to study features of Qipao. Total 20 seasons fashion collections from 2000S/S to 2009F/W was examined, and selected 22 brands that showed Qipao style, after then extracted 418 photos among them. By the seasons, Eit showed 193 pieces in S/S and 225 pieces in F/W, and was put to practical use in F/W season than S/S. The results are as follows. The contemporary fashion collections shown in the Qipao style silhouette, detail, color, material, pattern and the results obtained by each, were in all respects diversity. In silhouette, including traditional tight silhouettes, 'H' silhouettes, boxy silhouette was such a variety. The five colors traditionally preferred color from the color was more of a tendency to be gorgeous. Modern reinterpretation of pattern designs by graphic pattern that has emerged. Also, shown in a contemporary fashion collection Qipao style leather material in application utilizing the glossy feel of a plastic material and has emerged feeling.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.15-32
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• 2020

This study aims to develop contemporary fashion designs from the unique Yao minority costumes and to explore the possibility of developing creative designs by using knitting materials. The research method is based on the cultural clothing and costumes of the Chinese ethnic minority, as well as literature concerning the Yao costumes and photo data to investigate the cultural background and characteristics apparent in Yao costumes. The overall design characteristics of Yao costumes are as follows. First, the shape of Yao costumes are divided into straight-lined short tops with pleated skirts or shorts, or cardigan tops with pants and aprons, or long shirts, pants, and a belt. Each variant of tribal clothing is different. Second, the colors used are mainly black or dark blue, and these are accented by other colors, such as red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and white. Third, the clothing patterns are mainly in plant, animal, natural, geometric, and human, etc. motifs. The most common patterns in daily life are the patterns using geometric shapes, plants, or animals. Using the background of the unique lifestyles of the Yao ethnic minority, this study applied hand knitting and jacquard techniques for a knit fashion design. In order to develop traditional patterns, Yao patterns were entered into an Illustrator and SDS-ONE APEX3-4 was used for simulation. Using wool fibers as the raw material; the knitting machine used a Bird's eye Jacquard technique-10GG. The results of this research and design work were as follows. First, the knitted clothing design using Yao clothing elements has significance for the development and flexible use of ethnic elements in contemporary creative design. Second, the straight cut design using hand-knitted and jacquard-knit fabrics can minimize waste materials and provide more possibilities for sustainable design development. Third, it provides additional methods for the combination of hand-knitting and jacquard knitting fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.6
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• pp.145-157
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• 2008

Vivienne Tam was born in mainland China and educated in Hong Kong and has worked mainly in New York. Within multi-cultural background, she has shown unique fashion designs where western styles and China esprit were harmonized.. This study analyzed the ethnic look featured on Vivienne Tam's design to identify how she has expressed her ethnic identity into fashion. Photos featuring ethnic appeal among her New York collection from 1996 S/S to 2005 F/W were analyzed in terms of shape/silhouette, color, fabric, motifs, detail and accessaries. She utilized frequently chinese motifs and patterns such as bamboo, panda, budha, flowers, letters, and masks. Secondly she modified the shapes of Chinese traditional costume like Quipao to render ethnic appeal. Color, fabric and detail like frog and embroidery also contributed to enhance China mood. Comparatively, she used western clothing items including shirts, blouses, skirts, pants, dresses, and coats and maintained the silhouette tight and fit so that most her designs look wearable and westernized.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.527-539
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• 2019

This study examined the Chinese style in the Vivienne Tam collection as well as explored diversity and modern interpretation of a Chinese style used in modern fashion. The study also investigated the concept and history of the Chinese style as well as analyzed the Chinese style in the collection based on a consideration of a Chinese element that is the basic structure with an understanding of Vivienne Tam and general collection themes. As a result of research, the Chinese style appeared in the Vivienne Tam collection was comprehensive with 43 Chinese elements including Animals, Flower & Grass among the Nature elements, Mythology Religion among the Figure elements, Historical Artifacts, Clothing, Oral Literature, Entertainment, Fine Arts. Technique, Folk holiday among Culture elements and Philosophy among Spirit elements, which accounted for 57.6% of the collection. The formative characteristics that included Chinese elements were extended, abstracted, distorted or transformed; in addition, some abstract elements were embodied into animals, images and certain particular forms to present a theme. In addition to two-dimensional method to print Chinese elements on fabric, they were also expressed as a three-dimensional texture or a silhouette, achieving clear and bold harmony. The aesthetic characteristic is a mixture of Eastern and Western way of thinking. Her costume has a political and historical meaning beyond the imitation of elements that represent the development of a pleasant and interesting design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.1
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• pp.101-116
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• 2010

In this study, the subjects are the expression methods and compositions of peony patterns in Chinese textiles. This study represents the peony patterns which are from Tang Dynasty to the Qing Dynasty, the research subjects are the peony patterns in fabric, except the peony patterns which are expressed by gold foil, embroidery and kesi. The objects of this study are 72 pieces of peony patterns. We sketched the configuration details of peony patterns through the Illustrator program. Analyze and classify the configuration accurately. Based on the 72 pieces of peony patterns, expression methods and compositions of the peony pattern are as following, firstly, we classified peony patterns into three categories, based on expression methods, as realistic shape, pattern shape and shape. Among these 72 fabric relics, there most of realistic shape 42 pieces(58.3%), pattern shape 25 pieces(34.7%), and shape 5 pieces(7.0%). Secondly, in the realistic shape peony, the most of pattern has petal accumulate as grape- shaped. This type is found in almost every Dynasty and was used regularly in the eras of Song and Ming Dynasty. In the era of Ming Dynasty, by using petals like the curly mushroom, Yeongji(靈芝), the pattern of symbolizing longevity was habitually used. The U-shaped flower pattern (type E) and the pattern of emphasizing the veins of petals are found only in the remains of the era of Qing Dynasty. Thirdly, in the pattern shaped peony, the most of pattern has some petals which are separated(type C). Fourthly, we classified peony patterns into four categories, based on compositions, as individual branch form, floral branch form, cluster branch form and floral nest form. Among these 72 fabric relics, there most of individual branch form 33 pieces(45.8%), floral branch form 18 pieces(25.0%), cluster branch form 13 pieces(18.1%), floral nest form 8 pieces(11.1%).

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.972-986
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• 2015

This study seeks to explore the relationship between clothing adaptation and acculturation for married Chinese immigrant women. In addition, it aims to analyze the differences in their clothing consumption behaviors according to acculturation level. To achieve these purposes, a quantitative research study was conducted on 291 wives of Korean-Chinese multicultural families in Seoul and Gyeonggi. The data was analyzed using factor analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA, and the Duncun test. The findings were as follows. First, the women were divided into three groups based on their level of acculturation, which was defined as 'assimilated', 'marginalized' and 'segregated'. Second, the relationship between their acculturation level and their clothing adaptation was identified. The marginalized group had the lowest level of clothing adaptation. Third, the groups' differences in clothing selection criteria were analyzed. The segregated group considered the practical aspects (price, color, quality) of clothing to be more important than the other groups. The marginalized group scored the lowest in valuing the aesthetic factors (design, style, trendiness) of clothing. Finally, conformity of clothing consumption varied significantly based on acculturation level. The assimilated and marginalized groups showed higher levels conformity than did the segregated group. Clothing purchase location also varied significantly between the three groups. The assimilated and marginalized groups preferred online shopping, but members of the segregated group preferred to carry out their shopping off-line. This study showed that clothing adaptation and clothing consumption behaviors play key roles in understanding the acculturation of multicultural families.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.220-233
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to reviews the Chinesm expressed in the modern fashion world after the year 2000, and underlines the characteristics of Chinesm, as the Chinese fashion market is getting bigger and becomes the cynosure of the world. The method of this study is by research on precedence as well as related researches in Korean and foreign books. The results were as follows. First, the Chinesm recreates the historic motive which is the traditional costume, ornaments, or make-up etc. to maintain the harmony between the modernity and the past, preventing from following or mimicking. Second, the Chinesm expresses the combinational and harmonious manner with the combined image on the Chinese original symbolic factors mixing with the foreign spatial-temporal elements, the various styles of wear and decoration, and the different images to have the natural or equivocal relationship with one another. Third, The Chinesm magnifies the feminine atmosphere to express the sensual image by using effectively the traditional design factors, which is tight silhouette, coverture, and exposure. Fourth, the Chinesm professes the pro-naturalism embracing the human without conflicting with the human nature. It seems possible on the new value mixed with colors, materials, or patterns, etc.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.59-72
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• 2000

China adopted a free market economy system and entered into the WTO(World Trad Organization). It has now emerged as one of the most promising markets in the world for the near future. The purpose of this study was to investigate in Chinese and Korea college female students's clothing behavior for fitness and to suggest basic informations for high quality clothing merchandising for China. The subjects in this study were 430 college female students, aged from 18 to 24 living in Beijing(215) and Seoul(215). The survey were taken from June to July, 1999. SAS(Statistical Analysis System) is used for frequency, percentage, average, standard deviation, $x^2$-test. The results of this study are as follows. Examination on the Korean and Chinese preference of clothing behavior showed that Korean and Chinese have different preference for skirt, slacks, jacket and has different sensibility of the items of clothing behavior. The Chinese students prefer individual, feminine costume behavior, and fitted clothes to loose fitted skirt and slacks. Korean student want to lower waist position for all items. It is needed to different merchandising project for clothing in China.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.4
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• pp.131-149
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• 2014

Tibetans are one of the ethnic Chinese minorities, and this research examined the characteristics and features of their traditional costumes by investigating their historical, geographical and cultural background. This research also examined the cultural elements according to their characteristics based on Tibet's nature, religion, arts culture such as the Jang-po, Chin-sam, Kam-kjun and belts, which are used to fix the costumes. Based on such studies the traditional Tibetan costumes were set as a motif and were expressed appropriately into a contemporary style. By studying the composition of its costumes and its costume culture, the characteristics of the Tibetan costumes could be classified into four features. First, the 'variability of form' expresses a new type depending on how it is worn. Second, the 'color contrast' shows a strong visual contrast. Third, the 'difference of materials' combines different materials into one. Fourth, the 'symbolic meaning' grants meaning to the wearer. As a result of this study, by using the characteristics of the Tibetan nature culture, religion culture and art culture as a basis, two suits of clothes for each characteristics and six suits of clothes were produced as a fashion design product.