• 제목/요약/키워드: Chinese costume design

검색결과 199건 처리시간 0.028초

한국 전통무늬의 현대적 응용을 위한 선호도 및 이미지 평가 (Preference and Dvaluation of Image for Modern Application of Korean Traditional Patterns)

  • 김증자;조지현
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
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    • 제2권1호
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    • pp.21-35
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    • 2000
  • The purpose of this study was to evaluate the preference of image for modern application of Korean traditional patterns. A survey was conducted using the randomly selected 292 undergraduate women students of Taegu city. The degree of interest and preference in Korean traditional style or something like that had measured by 5 scale method. And then they had two groups which are interest/non-interest group, and preference/non-preference group in Korean traditional style. Also, preference of Korean traditional patterns was measured by 5 scale method. The image of Korean traditional patterns consisted of semantic differential scales. Analysis was by frequency, percentage, and mean. For difference of groups analysis was by t-test. The results were as follows:1. For the survey, 53.8% showed the interest and 40.4% did the preference for the traditional patterns. There was the positive correlation(0.782) between the degree of the interest and preference. 2. Among twenty traditional patterns, the patterns of plants and nature were very preferred, but the patterns of geometrical things was not preferred. 3. For the nature pattern, the image seemed to be elegant and feminine(womanly). For the plant pattern, the image seemed to be feminine, neat, weak, light and mild. For the animal pattern, the image seemed to be heavy, gorgeous, deluxe, virile(manly), strong and active. Last, for the geometrical pattern, the image seemed to be elegant, deluxe, rigid and strong. 4. Between the interest/non­interest groups, there was the significant difference in pattern of cloud, mountain, lotus flower, plum blossoms, orchid, dragon, chinese phoenix and bogy. Especially, for the orchid pattern, the preference difference between these groups was large. 5. For the plant pattern, the image difference between these groups was very large as the elegant-rustic image. Especially, the interest group evaluated as the elegant image. 6. Between the preference/non­preference groups, there was the strongly significant difference in the preference for the orchid pattern. 7. For the geometrical pattern, the image difference between these groups was very large as the mild­cold image. Especially, the preference groups evaluated as the cold image.

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세기말 유행경향으로 나타난 아르누보 패션 (The Art Nouveau Fashion in Modern Fashioni Trend)

  • 최유진;유영선
    • 복식
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    • 제50권2호
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    • pp.167-182
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    • 2000
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the art nouveau fashion represented in the end of the twentieth century. The characteristics of art nouveau are naturalism, medievalism , exoticism, and decadentism. The influences of art nouveau were seen in the fashion of the late nineteenth century : S-curve silhouette and organic curve motives printed on hems. Art nouveau has reappeared in modern fashion trends such as romanticism , decadence, ecology, ethno, and fusion. To sum up, art nouveau fashion at the end of the twentieth century is classified into four shapes. First, art nouveau appears in naturalism. Influenced by the arts and crafts movements and naturalistic trend, it has reappeared at the end of the twentieth century in themes like 'art & craft'. This expression technique is to objectively nature and to represented art nouveau textiles. Second, S-curve silhouette appeared at the end of nineteenth century's fashion with the art nouveau influenced rejection of the bustle style. At the end of the twentieth century, the design , emphasizing the hip, is represented in fashion collections as a phenomenon of romanticism . Especially the art nouveau silhouette of the end of the twentieth century does not represent S-curve silhouette. But , it emphasizes the hip only. Third, Art nouveau exoticism by symbolism is influenced by Chinese and Celtic art, the Middle Ages, and the exoticism that appeared in fashion at the end of the nineteenth century : harem style, kimono style, and turbans. Exoticism at the end of the twentieth century is expressed by optical flower prints and successive floral print arrangements as seen in the themes of ethno and fusion. Fourth, one of the characteristics of art nouveau, decadence is influenced by the pre-raphaelite brotherhood. This is expressed in the images of vampires, and symbolism expressing grotesque insect motives and decadent successive curves. At the end of the twentieth century decadence is represented in fashion ; grotesque insect motives, tatto looks of organic curve motives celtic hair style, see-through fashion, grotesque make-up . Besides hair style techniques, decadent expressions applying art nouveau paintings also appeared. Finally , art nouveau fashion represented as a fashion trend at the turning point to the new millennium is one of great significance as an organic, an environment-intimate and continuance-possible design in a future.

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한 후의 현대적 의미 (Modem Meaning of Han Chinese Clothing(韓服))

  • 호위;이은영
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
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    • 제11권1호
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    • pp.99-109
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    • 2009
  • 한 후란 중국의 전통 복장을 말하는 것이다. 한 장 (漢裝) 이라고도 하며 고대 복장이라고도 한다. 영어로는 silk robe라고도 한다. 한 후는 한 나라 이후 명나라까지 만주가 정복하기 전인 1644년까지 입혀졌던 중국의 전통복장이다. 최근 중국에서도 전통복장에 대한 새로운 모색이 일어나고 있다. 중국 전통복식으로 대표되는 치파오는 만주족의 한족 말살 정책의 일환으로 간소화시킨 복식이다. 따라서 중국 전통의복은 만주족에 의해 사양길을 가기 전 고대 한 조의 복식이 중국전통을 대표한다고 할 수 있다. 전통적인 한 후 스타일은 벨트를 매며 여밈이 있고 좁은 소매 혹은 넓은 소매가 특징이다. 한 족이 한 나라, 상 왕조, 송나라, 당나라때 입었던 한 후가 중국의 복식을 대표하는 복식이며 주나라의 쉔의는 튜닉과 스타일의 결합으로서 아직도 상류그룹이 입고 있다. 당나라에서는 동방의 문화와 혼합되어 화려하거나 사치스럽게 수정되었고 만주가 침범하여 한 후는 더 이상 전통복으로 입히지 못하였다. 한 후의 현대적 의미를 볼 때 역사적으로는 베트남에서 기모노에 이르기까지 그 원형을 볼 수 있고 한 후를 통해 중국전통 복식의 원류를 찾을 수 있다. 연구방법으로 문헌과 시각자료를 활용하였다. 한 후의 현대적 의미는 전통의 새로운 자각과 세계화 현대화의 노력이라 할 수 있다. 치파오로 규정된 중국복식에 반해 전통 한 후에 대한 올바른 인식과 활용은 세계화와 오리엔탈이미지에 녹아 있는 한 후 디자인 디테일을 통해 현대적 모색을 활용하고 있다. 충분한 시각 자료가 부족하지만 현대적 노력이 앞으로의 중국이미지의 재고를 가져올 것이다.

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조선후기 입식(笠飾)에 대한 연구 (A Study on 'Ipsik' in the Late Joseon Dynasty)

  • 장숙환
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
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    • 제9권3호
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    • pp.1-17
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    • 2007
  • This study is a review of Ipsik, the decorative ornaments found on traditional Korean horsehair hats, known as Ipja, which were worn by men in the late Joseon Dynasty. In a broad sense, Ipsik are regarded as men's accessories. Therefore, although this study is limited to Ipja, it is significant in the sense that it delves into one facet of men's accessories in detail. Because the appearance of the horsehair hats was rather mundane, Ipsik and Ibyeong were added as ornaments. During the Joseon period, various types of hat ornaments existed, named Maeksu, Hosu, Gongjagu, Sangmo, Jingdori, Ijeon, Guyeongja and Ibyeong. A person's social ranking and class could be discerned by the materials used in the Ipsik he wore. Jeongja, a decorative accessory used to attach to an official's hat, was institutionalized in the sixteenth year of King Gongmin's reign(1367), during the Goryeo Dynasty, prior to the founding of China's Ming Dynasty in 1368, which indicates that Jeongja were influenced by the Yuan Dynasty. A record in Lao Chi'ta (a textbook of spoken Chinese estimated circa 1346) confirms this fact. Based on a review of literature, we learn that just as with Ongno, Jeongja were imported for use on Jeonrip, a soldier's hat. During the Ching Dynasty, Jeongja were further subdivided and more exquisitely designed. On the other hand, in the Joseon Dynasty, a rule was handed down mandating that a royal prince use gold for his jeongja, officials at third rank or above use silver, and governors, commanders in chief, and officials with the Office of Inspector General and Office of Censor General use jade. Inspectors were permitted to use crystal. Jeongja made of jade were used until the late Joseon Dynasty.

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라이브 커머스의 왕홍 마케팅이 중국 소비자의 패션상품 구매의도에 미치는 영향 - 왕홍의 특성과 소비자 공동경험의 매개효과를 중심으로 - (Effects of Wanghong marketing in live commerce on chinese consumers' purchase intention toward fashion products - Focusing on the mediating effect of Wanghong's characteristics and consumers' co-experience -)

  • 나경원;오경화
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
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    • 제23권1호
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    • pp.19-36
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    • 2021
  • Real-time two-way communication has become an important factor in the relationship between consumers and broadcasters in the Live Commerce environment. To clarify, the relationship of the factors, and the effect of Live Commerce's on consumer purchase intention were examined. In addition, the role of Wanghong, who broadcasts Live Commerce and Co-experience that occurs between consumer and broadcasters influences consumer purchase intention. An online survey method was conducted for 403 subjects in their 20s that were Live Commerce users in Shanghai, Beijing, and Guangzhou, China. The number of final the data used for the analysis was 274 and anlaysis was conducted using SPSS 26.0 program and a Sobel test was employed. Based on the analysis of the data, it was found that Live Commerce's characteristics consisted of interactivity, security, and Wanghong's characteristics consisted of honesty, originality, and expertise. Also, it revealed that Co-experience was consisted of responsiveness and vividness. Second, for Live Commerce's characteristics, the Wanghong's characteristics, and Co-experience had a positive effect on the consumers' purchase intention. Third, the Wanghong's characteristics and vividness, a factor of Co-experience, had significant mediating effects on the relationship between Live Commerce's characteristics and the consumers' purchase intention. Finally, responsiveness of Co-experience had a noteworthy mediating effect on the relationship between the interactivity of Live Commerce's characteristics and the consumers' purchase intention. This study confirmed the important role of Live Commerce's characteristics, the Wanghong's characteristics and Co-experience in relation to the consumers' purchase intention. In addition, the Wanghong's characteristics and Co-experience were proposed as a significant mediating factors.

틱톡 패션광고의 특성 및 선호도가 패션 상품의 구매 의도에 미치는 영향 - 중국 20~30대 여성 소비자 중심으로 - (Effects of TikTok fashion advertising characteristics and preferences on fashion product purchase intention- Focused on female consumers in their 20s and 30s in China -)

  • 김칠순;유묘
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제30권4호
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    • pp.548-562
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    • 2022
  • We conducted this study to determine the TikTok usage status of Chinese consumers, and the effect of fashion advertisement type preference and TikTok characteristics on fashion product purchase intentions. For this study, we conducted a literature review and survey method. The following conclusions were drawn by collecting data online and performing statistical analysis. Firstly, the period of use was 2 - 4 years, and 95.1% of people used it for 2 - 3 hours a day, and 95.1% of the people had a purchasing experience on TikTok. Secondly, the most people were interested in self creating and editing videos in TikTok. With regards to TikTok content, groups aged 30 are significantly more interested in fashion coordination suggestions and influencer' recommendations than groups aged 20. Thirdly, this study found that the characteristics of TikTok fashion advertisements significantly influenced purchase intention. Among the characteristics of fashion advertisements, this study conclude that the "fashion entertainment" characteristic factor that fashion advertisements are fun and entertaining was the most influential variable on purchase intention, followed by useful information, reliability, and interactivity related to fashion. Fourthly, the types of preferred TikTok fashion advertising had a statistically significant effect on product purchase intention. The influential types of preferred advertising are top view, live advertisement, hashtag challenge, in-feed ads, and sticker ads.

조선시대 남성복식에 발현된 성리학적 몸 인식 (Perception of the Neo-Confucian body in men's dress during the Joseon Dynasty)

  • 고윤정;임은혁
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제31권5호
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    • pp.573-585
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    • 2023
  • Comprehending the prevailing ideals of the body within a specific era requires grasping the intricate interplay between social phenomena and the evolution of clothing. Accordingly, this study investigates the distinctive facets of the perception of the Neo-Confucian body as reflected in men's dress during the Joseon Dynasty. We examine a comprehensive body of scholarship, literature, and historical records concerning the body and dress. Additionally, we also employ a framework developed by M. Y. Kim, which categorizes the Neo-Confucian body in three ways: as the natural body, the cultural body, and the body as a fully-realized moral subject. Our findings unveil three crucial insights: firstly, guided by Neo-Confucian discourse positing appearance as a manifestation of innate energy (氣), men's dress was deliberately designed to demarcate stylistic distinctions in women's dress; secondly, the Chinese gwan (冠) was employed as a tool of self-cultivation (修身) to symbolize the legitimacy of Joseon's Neo-Confucian governance; and thirdly, sim-ui (深衣), a philosophical emblem of Confucianism extensively represented across through an intensified exploration of historical sources, served as a means to consolidate the political standing of the Neo-Confucian faction. As a consequence of these factors, the attire of noble men conferred upon them both sexual and moral ascendancy as political entities; men's dress became a visual manifestation of the legitimacy of their power, thus embodying Neo-Confucian ideals. This study carries significance by applying a discourse analysis approach to Korean dress research and elucidating the factors underlying the development of men's dress during the Joseon Dynasty.

중국 TV드라마 <상해탄(上海滩)>과 <신상해탄(新上海滩)>의 치파오 디자인 비교 연구 (A Comparative Study on Qipao Design in Chinese TV Drama and )

  • 나청청;이미숙
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제19권1호
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    • pp.62-76
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    • 2015
  • The purpose of this study was to analyze and compare the shapes, colors, patterns, and hairstyles of Qipao worn by heroines that were reconstructed over times, in a Chinese TV Drama set in the 1930s and televised in 1980 and remade in 2007. We investigated how the Qipao was reinterpreted. The results were as follows. First, in televised in 1980, Qipao borrowed the characteristics of Jing Pai Qipao, which became popular in Beijing. Jing Pai Qipao was characterized by a roomy and loose silhouette that does not expose a body line, Chinese traditional 5 colors, simple plain patterns and Chinese traditional flower patterns. For hairstyle, twist and permanent wave styles that were popular in the Republican Period were very common. On the other hand, in televised in 2007, Qipao was a Hai Pai style that was very popular in Shanghai in the 1930s. Hai Pai Qipao was characterized by a tight silhouette fitted to the body, various colors such as purple and beige other than the 5 colors, Western flower patterns and modern geometric patterns. Hairstyle was changed from bang hair to a permanent wave. Second, while had a modern reinterpretation of Jing Pai Qipao that was very popular in Beijing, rather than Hai Pai Qipao that became popular in Shanghai in the 1930s, used Hai Pai Qipao that was popular in Shanghai in the 1930s. In particular, demonstrated how the mass media should reinterpret past clothing by thoroughly studying and reflecting Shanghai Qipao in the 1930s and adding viewers' aesthetic taste of 2007 without damaging an original. Moreover, it confirmed that clothing can function as language and symbol within the mass media by connecting the color and pattern of Qipao with characters' traits and the plot. It suggests that was more advanced than filmed in the 1980s. The findings of this study might provide useful data to costume designers who reinterpret costumes from a new angle.

동북(東北)아시아 유의 기원(起源)과 그 교류(交流)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究) -$4{\sim}8$세기(世紀)를 중심(中心)으로- (A study on the origination and Transmission of Yu in Northeast Asia. -from the 4th Century to the 8th Century-)

  • 박경자;조선희
    • 복식
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    • 제17권
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    • pp.29-43
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    • 1991
  • Yu was a type of dress worn on the upper part of the body which was commonly used in Northeast Asia. It was originally used by the Northern race for the need of courtesy as well as protecting cold. It was believed that Yu in Northeast Asia, which was called Kaftan, was came from Scythai lived in North Eurasian land around the Black sea. Scythians were the first-formed horse-riding race in the world and their civilization influenced those of far Asiatic sector along the steppe route. As their power expanded, their costume culture transmitted to the East(China, Korea, Japan). The upper garment, Yu, was characterized by the left-sided collars, narrow sleeves belted at the waist to the length of the hip line and the tight trouser on the lower part, which we commonly called HoBok(胡服) style. 1. Yu in Northeast Asia was originated from the Eurasians, Scythian Culture. Being exchanged, active style costumes were widely used among Chinese, Koreans and Japanese throughout centuries' including $4{\sim}8$ century. 2. Chinese Yu had a style of wide-sleeves and right-sided collars. The traditional costumes of Han race are consisted of wide-sleeved Yu on the upper and long-skirt on the lower part of the body. Before the adoptation of HoBok during reign of King Jo Mooryung in 307. B.C., HoBok style had already found in the remains since the Sang period. There were various names among Yu during the Han period. Seup, Sean Eui, Kye, Kyu were one of the styles and several names were meant for collar and sleeves. During $4{\sim}8$ centuries, clothes of right-sided collar were found, superior to that of left-sided and narrow sleeves were widely used both the royal and the humble. Various styles of decoration were seen in Yu around neck, back and sleeves comparing other nations. 3. Yu, in Korea, was typical style of Northern-bound HoBok. Both men and women had similarity in Yu style, narrow sleeves, left-sided collar, belted at the waist and to the length of hip line. Influenced by Han race, in the $4th{\sim}8th$ centuries, dual system of collar was found. But we cannot see major change in Yu and finally was connected to the present. 4. The original design of the Japanese costumes was not similar to that of Northern nomadic hunting race, which was suitable for horse-riding activities. Owing to the climates along the island, we could see various conditions ranging from the cold and to the warm. Influenced by the climates, pulling over the neck(Pancho style) were major design in Japan. As Korea was advanced earlier than Japan, Korean landed Japanese territory showing clothes. So primitive costumes had changes in style. During the $4th{\sim}8th$ period. The Korean mode was found in Haniwa (which was built to make sacrifices to the dead King) and costumes in Jeong Chang Won. Among the costumes in Jeong Chang Won, we put 3 or more costumes to the category of Yu characterizing elements of Korea and Tang period. From the $4th{\sim}8th$ century, China, Korea, Japan fell into the same cultural category, Scythai. Styles in Yu among three nations, we saw little differences, basically along times. Originated from the West Asia, Yu was transmitted to the far East changing Chinese costumes, Koreans melted it into the traditional elements and then influenced Japan.

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안나 수이 컬렉션에 나타난 에스닉 스타일에 관한 연구 (Study on Ethnic Style Shown in Anna Sui's Collections)

  • 변민연;이지은;이인성
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제15권1호
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    • pp.127-136
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    • 2007
  • Modern society shares new culture derived from the fusion of various cultures unlike the past culture regulating one phenomenon of certain field as the representative icon of the era. Especially, the phenomenon of globalization acts as the catalytic agent to receive coexistence of variousness easily. Especially, in fashion industry, these flows and the view of naturalism are harmonized and new fashion trend called 'Ethnic' was embossed. As it reflects internal spirit of human being that wants to return to the memory due to expansion of material civilization, the interest in the designer pursuing it is increasing. This study tries to consider the Ethnic style displayed by Chinese American designer, Anna Sui, who pursues the eastern style with full wit and individuality. Anna Sui, who was praised by New York Times for 'the superb harmony of houte couture style and up-to-date style', created another fashion trend, romanticism in New York and she is the worldwide designer representing Ethnic. Like it, the consideration on her Ethnic style reanalyzing as eastern style provides guidance to check how designer's fashion philosophy appears in one category of America and China and new study material that enables us to understand the third world culture code as well as Anna Sui. This confirmation has the meaning as the basic material for the endless challenge to the new style that fashion will go on in the future. Anna Sui was confirmed to have been recognized as a designer who represented the ethnic collection in the United States, exerting the influence with her unique oriental background. Moreover, her design could identify the pivotal point of ethnic image by developing her unique style which is distinct from other designers in terms of silhouette, color, fabric, detail, and so on. This kind of study can provide the basic data required to understand the fashion world of designer in the future.

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