• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.4
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• pp.81-90
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• 2012

The contents of this study are as follows. First, an academic understanding has been achieved by exploring the theoretical concept "allegory", and a new theoretical approached methodology has been sought. Second, an analysis-index of fashion illustration cases has been suggested based on the allegory theory of Craig Owens. Third, in order to draw the characteristics of fashion illustration as viewed from the allegorical viewpoint and find out its feasibility, the case studies has been referred and the internal significance, external significance that combines different characteristics has been extracted. In regards to this study method, literature studies and case studies has been done in parallel with each other. This study was done in the following sequence: the establishment of the study system, the drawing of the allegory-associated concepts and the discovering the characteristics of aesthetic expressions. The results of this study on the expression characteristics of fashion illustration as viewed from the allegorical viewpoint of Craig Owens are as follows. First, the borrowing of image, which is a characteristic of allegory, contains the meaning of uncertainty in the fashion illustration as it expresses the image-synthesis and forms a completely different meaning as the fixed meaning is dissolved and it is utilized as a photo-montage technique. Second, the inference of pictogram is the mixture of linguistic medium and visual medium. Fashion illustration utilizes the characters and transmits the fashion information visually and immanently. It has the characteristic of making the information into pictograms and the internal significances of mutual-text with communication function. Third, the uniqueness of location in the fashion illustration has the special nature of utilized mediums as it is used for advertising or publicizing. The fashion illustration from the viewpoint of allegory has the impermanency of existing only for a limited time and reflects the coincidence that gives the meaning of utilized location according to the season trend. Fourth, the cross-breeding is expressed as the mixture of various materials in the fashion illustration. The expressions made by the mixture of media, such as the use of computer graphic programs mixed together with various materials showed the trend of diversity and genre dissolution.

• Archives of design research
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.163-172
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• 2003

Nowadays calligraphy technique is widely utilized in diverse areas throughout the world. It is adopted in the visual environment of modern people comprehending from graphic design areas such as advertisement, package, symbol marks, logotypes, and movie posters to modern abstract paintings. It is because its dynamic and suggestive power of expression as symbolic and kinetic representation has been appreciated anew. In response to modern people's aversion from the mechanical and artificial digital environment as well as from the uniform, official, and modernistic trend, calligraphy technique is attracting people's attention as a new expressive style with oriental mysticism and emotional intimacy. Therefore, this study aims at illuminating the history of calligraphy, understanding its characteristics, searching for the expanded value of modern paintings and graphic designs, and ultimately contributing to the propagation of visual languages and expressive styles. In addition, this study attempted to establish the concept of Calli-Illust, which combines oriental painting techniques and materials and calligraphy techniques, and to explore for its potential uses in order to expand the area of illustration. According to the results of this study, calligraphy technique is a painting style of abstract expressionism, contributing to the expansion of the territory of a new formative area. Furthermore, this study proved that it is necessary to develop new expressive styles to overcome the limitation of design styles based on western rational, logical, and geometric functionalism, which have been received uncritically in the design environment of diversity. What is more, the concept and definition of calli-illust, which has been understood as a part of the concept of calligraphy so far, were clarified Research on calli-illust is just in its beginning stage. The present researcher expects that deeper and more extensive studies will be carried out in the future, so that calli-illust can be applied to communication design in various ways.

• Archives of design research
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• v.20 no.1 s.69
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• pp.111-120
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• 2007

This research proposes contextual space expression as a possibility of solution methods for local and historical issues, the matters that our contemporary architecture has to overcome. When modernistic architecture aimed for anonymous public interests denying the characteristics in historical and spacial contexts, postmodern architecture and regional architecture, etc have been striving to revive discontinued contextual meanings using various historical and environmental elements. While such attempts only borrowed architectural materials by superficially understanding the context, they could not comprehend ceaselessly changing contexts sufficiently. Choosing Jean Nouvel as one of the architects that can explain spatial plan to properly respond to such ever-changing, contemporary contexts, the researcher intended to understand his line of expressional characteristics of his architectural space and analyze his works as examples.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.3 no.1 s.4
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• pp.1-12
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• 2005

The purpose of this thesis is to study the formative characteristics and symbolism shown in Rock stars' hairstyles through rock music to have influenced youth culture. There were a D.A style and a mop top style which included the youth characteristic to seek a new desire and value as the hairstyles of Rock & Roll stars, along with the characteristics of Rock & Roll music to represent the feeling of teenagers in 1950's at that time unlike the previous music due to high beats mixed with Rhythm & Blues (R & B) and Country music, and use of electronic guitars. We can see the desire for challenge and freedom against the then present regime, shouting love and peace, and resistance in the Psychedelic Rock music stars' hairstyle, which are untrimmed and disheveled, that is, natural. We can find explosiveness in Mohican and Spike style of Punk Rock stars playing fierce and aggressive music, along with words including indignation and assertion against the society's regime. The Artistic characteristic is implied in the following hairstyles: Glam Rock stars' hairstyle, a man's long-haired but a little long crew-cut style to reduce the bulky feeling and to give a bisexual, visible shock with hair dyed in orange to emphasize magnificence, and Punk Rock stars' hairstyle showing beauty in their own way with expression of anti-beauty to intentionally look ugly. Like this, the 20th Century's Rock music and youth culture are closely associated each other, and showed a new style, and played a leading role in street fashion, which became a momentum to much influence high fashion as a look of the 20th century modern fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.108-118
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• 2019

Appreciating gardens in garden show has its meaning in appreciating concepts and ideas of artists, hidden inside of garden, as formative arts, as well as the beauty of the nature. This study is aimed to understand the intension of artists in visual expression through formative media in the gardens by assessing structure of visual narrative in the space with 20 artworks among the ones presented in 2018 Taehwagang Garden Show. The formative structure is delivered as contents and forms through formative media and formative language. Thus, for analysis on the artworks, the researcher assessed expressive characteristics of the media, through visual and space language, that forms the formative structure in the contest of narrative structure expressed in the gardens and findings of the analysis are as follows. First, for intertextuality obtained through media image, most of the artworks delivered message through 'figure image.' This means, the concept is delivered as 'affinity of actual objects' through the media and associated 'meaning and meaning action' are expected. Second, the characteristics of signs to show symbolism in the gardens were categorized into 'icon'. 'index' and 'symbol'. The results showed that most of the artworks expressed common characteristics between image and meaning, using 'icon' and 'symbol'. Third, as space formation components, based on formative principles, the components of 'dominant' and 'subordinate' roles were defined as the key components for meaning delivery. Also, it was understood that 'space configuration with overlapped image' and 'space configuration with transparency' were adopted to strengthen conceptional layers. Forth, for space occupation types, there were mostly central hall type, corridor type and passage space type and for open space type, the entire space area was conceptualized, instead of certain object. The circulation line was defined in the frequency order of circular type, pass type and return type. The study on the expressive characteristics of visual narrative in garden design is meaningful as it could build base data for the method of spatial design for visual development of concepts in the future.

• Journal of Convergence for Information Technology
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.183-193
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to analyze the effect of black consumer behavior perception on the anger expression and turnover intention of beauty workers. For data collection, the final 392 copies were used by distributing questionnaires to 400 people for three months from November 1, 2021 to January 31, 2022, centering on beauty service workers in Seoul, Gyeonggi, and Incheon. For data analysis, SPSS 25.0 program was used. Frequency analysis was performed to identify demographic characteristics, and factor analysis and reliability analysis were performed to understand the validity of the measurement tool. Correlation analysis, A regression analysis was performed. As a result of the analysis, the transient and deterrence of black consumers had a positive (+) effect on anger expression, anger suppression, and turnover intention, and anger expression and anger control had a positive (+) effect on turnover intention. Therefore, it is necessary to raise excessive problems of black consumers or eradicate forced services, and it is believed that proper customer response methods and programs for stress relief should be provided by members.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.222-238
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• 2019

This study is aimed at applying the philosophical concept of "$diff{\acute{e}}rance$" to contemporary men's fashion design, which could effectively show the shift in thinking. For the study method, the author examined the theoretical background of deconstruction and prepared the standard of analysis by organizing the concept of "$diff{\acute{e}}rance$," which exists at the center of philosophy. This study selected the three most popular brands: Maison Margiela, Comme des Garcons, and Yohji Yamamoto. The results are as follows. First, there is expression of perpetual reservation emphasizing time. This includes texture, patchworks, hems with ladder, and exposure of seam that expresses the trace of time flow and delayed delivery of immediate meaning, and the expression creates delay between major and minor and leads to consistent role exchange. Second, the trace of blank that emphasizes the space gives a visual sense of weight on spares with the intentionally granted space, as well as the space that is the trace of trace and creates a sense of depth through the direction of empty space. Third, the space created in the process of wearing cloth is visualized, the structure of clothing is deconstructed, and the movement from the process recomposes the shape of space and expands the definition that enables expansion of time and space. Fourth, the undetermined relationship expresses the border of time and space visually and deconstructs time and space. The approaches are mostly constructive, demonstrating an avant-garde form of clothes-wearing to show the non-form or imbalance condition.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.5
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• pp.638-653
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• 2014

The structure of noble centered social status of the late Joseon Dynasty collapsed due to the commoner's higher status and increased level of consciousness caused by the growth of commerce and agriculture. In art, the a Korean and ethnical style dominated; however, with a diversity in the depiction of human figures in portraits, Buddhist paintings, genre paintings and folklore paintings. This study examines the diversity in human figures expressed in the paintings of the late Joseon Dynasty by expanding the common aesthetic fixed to the typical Joseon style of renowned painters. The conclusion of this study is as follows. The human figure is categorized into three different types of 'realistic', 'ideal', and 'distortion' based on the aesthetic category. First, the realistic type is defined literally by its realistic and detailed depiction of noble class portraits classified as extreme type and general type. The extreme type's formative element is hypersubtlety which includes a simultaneous aesthetic of aptness and ugliness. The general type shows subtlety with aesthetic of aptness. Second, the ideal type is defined by representing the standard form of time and criteria classified as beautified type, absolute type, and dignified type. Each shows a different character of gender of femininity, androgyny, and masculinity. Third, distortion types are defined by a characteristic expression of humans by transshaping the features in various methods categorized as grotesque, abjection, friendly, rustic, and caricature type. Each shows different formative elements of bizarre, patheticness, voluptuous, inartificial, and immaturity.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.544-561
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• 2020

Goldwork embroidery is the art of embroidery using metal threads. As well as being used as a decorative element of religious clothing, flags, performing costumes, uniforms, and badges, goldwork embroidery is also used in many current designer collections. Therefore, this study aimed to examine the techniques and materials of goldwork embroidery and the formative characteristics and socio-cultural values of goldwork embroidery from its beginning to the early 20th century. For this study, various embroidery works, costumes, museum portraits, and literature were analyzed. The results are as follows. First, the transition of goldwork embroidery was divided into 4 categories: The beginning of goldwork embroidery; the golden age of goldwork embroidery; the maturity of goldwork embroidery; and various goldwork embroidery (depending on the materials used, usage, and design features). The earliest extant example is the "Maaseik fragments" in Belgium dating from the late 8th to early 9th centuries. Until the 15th century, the Church was the most important patron of goldwork embroidery; however, after the 15th century, goldwork embroidery was produced on costumes. Second, the social-cultural values of goldwork embroidery (based on transition and formative features) were classified as expression of divinity, instrument of governance, desire to be approved, and tools of self-expression. Through this study, it is evident that there have been many advances in both technique and technology over time. Furthermore, patterns of usage and social-cultural values of goldwork embroidery have changed significantly.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.84-100
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze the meanings of signs represented in contemporary fashion based on the Peirce's trisection theory in order to present various types of sign representation that satisfies aesthetic value and characteristics of the age of information and image. Types of signs represented in contemporary fashion can be summarized into letters, numbers, codes, pictures, logos, characters and emblems. The meanings of signs were analyzed based on the Peirce's trisection theory, resulting in representation of play, brandsymbol, eroticism and suggestion. The play was categorized into infantile and parodic. The former inspires unexpected interest and laughter from contemporary people in the age of disorder through humorous characters, cartoons and illustrations. The latter inspires laughter by parodying things and it's intention is to release the isolation of people and their relative poverty through pictures for which techniques of parody and surrealism were used. Most of the brandsymbols represented by logos, used for textile and clothing design as well as accessories are optimal signs that construct brand images. Eroticism means emotion, impulses, senses of value and sexual attraction. A desire to represent sexual attraction is an expression of eroticism and self-expression to adjust in a changing society. Suggestion tends to pursue the image of harmony with nature in a world which is pressed by material civilization. Humans represent illuminating messages through direct slogans by characters, natural objects and motives of social phenomenon in pursuit of the benefits of abundant material civilization in the structure of a highly advanced scientific civilization and industrial society.