• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.350-356
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• 1993

We carry out a numerical calculation to understand the nonlinear wave deformation around breakwaters using the Boussinesq equation, which is weakly nonlinear and weakly dispersive shallow water equation. A numerical method based on a finite element scheme and fourth order Runge-Kutta algorithm is employed to investigate the diffraction of incident waves by the breakwater. As a computational model, two-dimensional wave flume is treated. The breakwaters is perpendicular to the side wall of a channel. From the numerical results, the wave deformations according to the change of the length and the thickness of breakwaters are investigated. We also investigate the effect of the nonlinearity by comparing the results with the linear solutions.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.39 no.1
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• pp.38-48
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• 2002

Theoretical development to generate the directional extreme waves in model basin is established based on wave focusing method. The effects of associated parameters, such as the directional range, frequency width, and center frequency, are investigated in terms of wave focusing efficiency. The two different spectral models of constant wave amplitude and constant wave slope are applied to control the wave characteristics. The wave packets simulated by theory are compared with numerical results based on Boussinesq equation and FEM. Both controls of direction and frequency spectrum are essential to focus directional waves effectively. It is noticed that wave focusing ability depends on the frequency bandwidth of spectrum rather than center frequency, and both spectral models with same parameters result in the equivalent efficiency of wave focusing.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.177-187
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• 2022

This study estimates the design wave in the event of a typhoon attack at Busan new port using the wind field, the revised shallow water design wave estimation method proposed by the Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries in 2020, and proposed a reliable method of calculating the shallow water design through verification with the wave observation data. As a result of estimating typhoon wave using the wind field and SWAN numerical model, which are commonly used in the field work, for typhoon that affected Busan new port, it was found that reproducibility was not good except typhoons KONG-REY(1825) and MAYSAK(2009). In particular, in the case of typhoon MAEMI(0314), which had the greatest impact on Busan new port, the maximum significant wave height was estimated to be about 35.0% smaller than that of the observed wave data. Therefore, a plan to improve the reproducibility of typhoon wave was reviewed by applying the method of correcting the wind field and the method of using the Boussinesq equation numerical model, respectively. As a result of the review, it was found that the reproducibility of the wind field was not good as before when the wind field correction. However as a method of linking wind field data, SWAN model results, and Boussinesq numerical model, typhoon wave was estimated during typhoon MAEMI(0314), and the maximum significant wave was similar to the wave observations, so it was reviewed to have good reproducibility.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.51-57
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• 1990

Based on second-order Stokes wave and parabolic approximation, a refraction-diffraction model for linear and nonlinear waves is developed. With the assumption that the water depth is slowly varying, the model equation describes the forward scattered wavefield. The parabolic approximation equations account for the combined effects of refraction and diffraction, while the influences of bottom friction, current and wind have been neglected. The model is tested against laboratory experiments for the case of submerged circular shoal, when both refraction and diffraction are equally significant. Based on Boussinesq equations, the parabolic approximation eq. is applied to the propagation of shallow water waves. In the case without currents, the forward diffraction of Cnoidal waves by a straight breakwater is studied numerically. The formation of stem waves along the breakwater and the relation between the stem waves and the incident wave characteristics are discussed. Numerical experiments are carried out using different bottom slopes and different angles of incidence.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.125-130
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• 2006

Waves, which are the main source of ship motions in a seaway, considerably affect the performance of a ship. The study of waves and their impact on ship motions within harbors is an important aspect of the design and operation of harbors. The prediction of incoming groups of waves is particularly important for evaluating ship motion within a harbor. Such a prediction makes it possible to evaluate ship safety more accurately. The wave transformation model reported here is applied to actual ports based on Boussinesq wave equations both non-linear and dispersive wave processes be considered in order to capture physical effects such as wave shoaling, refractions, reflection and diffraction in variable depth environments. The prediction of incoming groups of waves is particularly important for evaluating ship motion within a harbor, Such a prediction makes it possible to evaluate ship safety more accurately and provide safe wave informations for navigation. Furthermore, a wave information support system is proposed for entering ships as one technique for improving the safety of ship operations. This system predicts the run of waves and reduces the danger by identifying the most dangerous point near the harbor entrance at the small wave groups.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.46 no.2
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• pp.205-218
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• 2013

The likelihood of rip current at Haeundae beach according to wave parameters, such as wave height, period, direction, and tidal elevation, was estimated by using numerical simulations with a Boussinesq model, FUNWAVE. To examine the estimation, the rip current occurred on 12th June, 2011 at Haeundae beach was simulated based on observations. For the estimation, the following procedure was carried out. First, extensive numerical simulations of nearshore circulations are performed under various random sea conditions according to the wave parameters. Second, from the numerical results, cross shore components of two-wave-period averaged velocities over the nearshore area were computed, and their seawardly maximum was defined as rip current velocity of the area. Third, using time series of the rip current velocity, we computed the ratio of the simulation time and the time period in which the rip current velocity exceed a threshold velocity for rip-current accidents, and thus the ratio was quantified as the likelihood of rip current at Haeundae beach for the input wave parameters. From the resultant estimations, it was found that the rip current likelihood increases as wave height and period increase, and tidal elevation decreases.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.527-537
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• 2003

The characteristics of ship induced waves caused by navigation become widely different from both ship's speed and water depth condition. The ship induced waves specially generated in coastwise routes frequently give rise to call unforeseen danger for swimmers and small boats as well as shoreline erosion or sea wall destruction in coastal zones. The main concern of ship induced wave study until now is either how to reduce ship resistance or how to manoeuvre the ship safely under a constant water depth in the view point of shipbuilding engineers. Moreover, due to the trends for appearance of the high speed ships at the shallow coastal water, we are confronted with the danger of damages from those ship induced waves. Therefore, it is necessary to examine the development of ship induced waves and the influence of their deformation effects according to its propagation ray. In present study, in order to predict the development of the ship induced waves and their propagation under the conditions of complicate and variable shallow water depth with varying ship's speed, we constructed a computer model using Boussinesq equation with a fixed coordinate system and verified the model results by comparison with experimental results. Additionally, the model was applied under the variable water depth based on actual passage and we then confirmed the importance of the variable water depth consideration.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.32 no.5B
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• pp.321-329
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• 2012

Two regular progressive wave trains, the directions of which are slightly different from each other, develop a honeycomb pattern of wave crests due to their nonlinear interaction. In the honeycomb pattern of wave crest, the nodal line area, which has very low wave energy, is formed. When the honeycomb pattern is developed near the beach area, rip current evolves through the nodal line area formed in the cross shore direction. In this study, to confirm that the formation of honeycomb pattern of waves near the beach area is a dominant mechanism of rip current occurred at Haeundae beach, we performed a numerical simulation of nearshore circulation at Haeundae beach under an unidirectional and monochromatic wave condition by using a nonlinear Boussinesq equation model. As a result, wave refraction due to topographical characteristics (i.e., submerged shoal) of Haeundae gave rise to several wave trains propagating with slightly different directions toward the beach, and consequently rip currents well developed through the nodal line area of honeycomb patterns of wave crest. In addition, we found that a narrow-banded spectral wave condition (i.e., a swell spectrum) increases more likelihood of rip current than a broad-banded spectral wave condtion based on the simulations employing various wave spectra with an equivalent wave height and period.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.1-8
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• 2005

For the simulation of tsunami propagation an active dispersion-correction two-dimensional finite element model has been developed based on a shallow-water wave equation. This model employs an arbitrary triangular mesh and an explicit time integration scheme. However, the physical dispersion effects as included in the Boussinesq equations can be taken into account in the computation. The validity of the dispersion-correction scheme developed in this study is verified through the comparison of numerical solutions calculated using the new scheme with analytical ones considering dispersion effect of waves. As a result, the present model is shown to be considerably accurate.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2016.05a
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• pp.468-468
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• 2016

3차원 동수역학 모델을 이용하여 연안 순환에서 발생하는 이안류의 연직 분포를 조사하였다. 이안류 흐름은 변수심 위에서 발생하는 파의 쇄파와 모멘텀 전달에 의해 발생하는 외해방향의 흐름을 의미하는 것으로 해안의 보전, 유지 및 개발 측면에서 매우 중요한 역할을 한다. 지난 수십년동안 이안류와 관련된 현상을 해석하기 위해 많은 연구들이 수행되어 왔다. 하지만 대부분의 연구들은 수심적분된 2차원 모델을 사용하거나 위상 평균된 3차원 모델을 사용하여 이안류 흐름이 발생할 시 유속의 3차원 분포나 각 종 물리량의 시간적인 변화 등을 모의하기 어려웠다. 본 연구에서는 3차원 동수역학 모델 NHWAVE (Non-Hydrostatic WAVE model)을 이용하여 이안류의 연직분포를 조사하였다. 이안류를 발생시키기 위하여 이상적인 이안류 지형을 만들었으며 여러 지점에서 연직분포를 측정하여 수심적분된 Boussinesq 모델과 비교하여 특성을 파악하였다. 수치모의 수행결과, 두 모델 모두 이안류 현상을 잘 재현하였으나 Boussinesq 모델은 수평유속의 연직방향 변화를 잘 재현하지는 못하였다. 또한, 파고가 상대적으로 큰 경우에는 3차원 모델에서는 작은 순환류가 외해 영역에서 발생하였으나 Boussinesq 모델에서는 관측하지 못하였다.