• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.26 no.5B
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• pp.551-555
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• 2006

In this study, new dispersion-correction terms are added to a leap-frog finite difference scheme for the linear shallow-water equations with the purpose of considering dispersion effects of the linear Boussinesq equations for propagation of tsunamis. The numerical model developed in this study is tested to the problem that the initial free surface displacement is a Gaussian hump over a constant water depth, and the predicted numerical results are compared with analytical solutions. The results of the present numerical model are accurate in comparison with those of existing models.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.1-8
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• 2005

For the simulation of tsunami propagation an active dispersion-correction two-dimensional finite element model has been developed based on a shallow-water wave equation. This model employs an arbitrary triangular mesh and an explicit time integration scheme. However, the physical dispersion effects as included in the Boussinesq equations can be taken into account in the computation. The validity of the dispersion-correction scheme developed in this study is verified through the comparison of numerical solutions calculated using the new scheme with analytical ones considering dispersion effect of waves. As a result, the present model is shown to be considerably accurate.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.350-356
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• 1993

We carry out a numerical calculation to understand the nonlinear wave deformation around breakwaters using the Boussinesq equation, which is weakly nonlinear and weakly dispersive shallow water equation. A numerical method based on a finite element scheme and fourth order Runge-Kutta algorithm is employed to investigate the diffraction of incident waves by the breakwater. As a computational model, two-dimensional wave flume is treated. The breakwaters is perpendicular to the side wall of a channel. From the numerical results, the wave deformations according to the change of the length and the thickness of breakwaters are investigated. We also investigate the effect of the nonlinearity by comparing the results with the linear solutions.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2000.09a
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• pp.103-112
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• 2000

Early efforts to model wave transformation from offshore to inshore were based on the ray theory which accounts for wave refraction due to changes in bathymetry and the diffraction effects were ignored. Prediction of nearshore waves with the combined effects of refraction and diffraction as well as reflection has taken a new dimension with the use of the mild-slope equation and the Boussinesq equation. (omitted)

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2006.05a
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• pp.1935-1939
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• 2006

In this study, the new dispersion-correction terms are added to leap-frog finite difference scheme for the linear shallow-water equations with the purpose of considering the dispersion effects such as linear Boussinesq equations for the propagation of tsunamis. And, dispersion-correction factor is determined to mimic the frequency dispersion of the linear Boussinesq equations. The numerical model developed in this study is tested to the problem that initial free surface displacement is a Gaussian hump over a constant water depth, and the results from the numerical model are compared with analytical solutions. The results by present numerical model are accurate in comparison with the past models.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.46 no.5
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• pp.491-504
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• 2013

In this study, wave breakings over a shelf region are investigated under irregular wave conditions through laboratory experiments in a wave flume. Numerical simulations based on the Boussinesq-type equations are also conducted. The characteristics of breaking waves such as significant wave height, crest and trough heights, the mean water level and the stable wave height are obtained by analyzing laboratory measurements in detail. Obtained results are compared with those of the Boussinesq-type equations model. A very reasonable agreements is observed. The broken waves over a horizontal bottom asymptotically approach a stable wave height($H_{stable}$). In this study, the relative stable wave height is found as $H_{stable}/h{\fallingdotseq}0.56$ for irregular wave.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.49 no.1
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• pp.61-72
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• 2016

In Korea, the aquifers at the coastal areas are mostly shallow alluvial unconfined aquifers. To simulate the flow and dispersion in unconfined aquifer, a FDM model has been developed to solve the nonlinear Boussinesq equation. Related analysis and verification have been executed. The iteration method is used to solve the nonlinearity, and the model shows 3-D shape because it is a 2-D y model that consider the undulation of water table and bottom. For the verification of the model, the output of flow module is compared to the 1-D analytic solution of Lee (1989) which have the drawdown or uplift boundary condition, and the two results show almost the same value. and the mass balance of dispersion module shows about 10% error. The developed model can be used for the analysis and design of the flow and dispersion in the unconfined aquifers. The model has been applied to the estuary area of Ssangcheon watershed, and the parameters have been deduced as a result : hydraulic conductivity is 90 m/day, and longitudinal dispersivity is 15 m. And the analysis with these parameters shows that the wells are situated in the influence circle of each others except for No. 7 well. Groundwater discharge to sea is $3700m^3/day$. And the chlorine ion ($cl^-$) concentration at the pumping wells increase at least 1000 mg/L if groundwater dam is not exist, so the groundwater dam plays an important role for the prevention of sea water intrusion.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.38-49
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• 2015

Past study of tsunami heavily relied on the numerical modelling using 2D Boussinesq Eq. and Solitary wave. Lately, based on the fact that numerically simulated run up heights based on solitary wave are somewhat smaller than the measured one, Leading Depression N (LDN) Wave has been elaborated, which can account the advancement of a shore line before tsunami strikes a shore. Thereafter it is reported that more accurate simulation can be possible once LDN is deployed. On the other hand, there were numerous reports indicating that stable LDN wave can't be sustained in the hydraulic model test. These conflicts between the hydraulic model tests and numerical results have their roots on the assumption made in the derivation of Boussinesq type wave model such as that wave nonlinearity is equally balanced with wave dispersiveness. Hence, in the numerical simulation based on the Boussinesq type wave model, wave dispersiveness is inevitably underestimated, especially in deep water. Based on this rationale, we developed the modified methodology for the generation of stable LDN wave in the 3D numerical wave flume, and proceeded to numerically analyze the depression effect of Hybrid Breaker on the run up height due to tsunami using the Navier Stoke Equation. The verification of newly proposed wave model in this study was carried out using the run up height from the hydraulic model test. It was shown that Hybrid Breaker consisting of three water chamber and slope at its front can reduce 13% of run up height for H = 5m, and 10% of run up height for H = 6m.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.45 no.5
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• pp.473-480
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• 2012

A two-dimensional depth-integrated hydrodynamic and a depth-averaged passive scalar transport models were developed by using a Compact Finite Volume Method (CFVM) which can assure a higher order accuracy. A typical wave current interaction experimental data set was compared with the computed results by the proposed CFVM model, and resonable agreements were observed from the comparisons. One and two dimensional scalar advection tests were conducted, and very close agreements were observed with very little numerical diffusion. Finally, a turbulent mixing simulation was done in an open channel flow, and a reasonable similarity with LES data was observed.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.75-86
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• 1998

To design a coastal structure in the nearshore region, engineers must have means to estimate wave climate. Waves, approaching the surf zone from offshore, experience changes caused by combined effects of bathymetric variations, interference of man-made structure, and nonlinear interactions among wave trains. This paper has attempted to find out the effects of two of the more subtle phenomena involving nonlinear shallow water waves, amplitude dispersion and secondary wave generation. Boussinesq-type equations can be used to model the nonlinear transformation of surface waves in shallow water due to effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, and reflection. In this paper, generalized Boussinesq equations under the complex bottom condition is derived using the depth averaged velocity with the series expansion of the velocity potential as a product of powers of the depth of flow. A time stepping finite difference method is used to solve the derived equation. Numerical results are compared to hydraulic model results. The result with the non-linear dispersive wave equation can describe an interesting transformation a sinusoidal wave to one with a cnoidal aspect of a rapid degradation into modulated high frequency waves and transient secondary waves in an intermediate region. The amplitude dispersion of the primary wave crest results in a convex wave front after passing through the shoal and the secondary waves generated by the shoal diffracted in a radial manner into surrounding waters.