• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.181-189
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• 2000

A weakly nonlinear mild-slope equation has been derived directly from the continuity equation with the aid of the Galerkin's method. The equation is combined with the momentum equations defined at the mean water level. A single component model has also been obtained in terms of the surface displacement. The linearized form is completely identical with the time-dependent mild-slope equation proposed by Smith and Sprinks(1975). For the verification purposes of the present nonlinear model, the degenerate forms were compared with Airy(1845)'s non-dispersive nonlinear wave equation, classical Boussinesq equation, andsecond¬order permanent Stokes waves. In this study, the present nonlinear wave equations are discretized by the approximate factorization techniques so that a tridiagonal matrix solver is used for each direction. Through the comparison with physical experiments, nonlinear wave model capacity was examined and the overall agreement was obtained.

• 한국방재학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2007.02a
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• pp.395-398
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• 2007

In this study, new dispersion-correction terms are added to leap-frog finite difference scheme for the linear shallow-water equations with the purpose of considering the dispersion effects of the linear Boussinesq equations for the propagation of tsunamis. The new model is applied to near Gadeok island in Pusan about The Central East Sea Tsunami in 1983 and The Hokkaldo Nansei Oki Earthquake Tsunami in 1993 one simulated in the study.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2010.05a
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• pp.218-222
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• 2010

본 연구에서는 ${\sigma}$-좌표계를 기반으로 하는 3차원의 이송확산 모형과 depth-integrated eddy simulation 모형을 결합한 효율적인 3차원 근역 (near-field) 해석모형을 제시하였다. 흐름 모형은 Boussinesq-type equations과 stochastic backscatter model을 기본으로 하고 있다. 이 흐름 모형은 수면의 변화와 바닥으로부터 발생하는 전단력과 파랑의 유동으로부터 발행하는 수심방향의 유속분포를 예측할 수 있다. 이와 같은 흐름 정보를 3차원 ${\sigma}$-좌표계의 이송확산모형에 제공하고 scalar의 이송과 확산에 대한 거동을 계산한다. 기본적인 이송과 이송-확산에 대한 검증 및 개수로에서 정량적 검증과 정성적 검증을 수행하였다. 전반적으로 타당한 결과가 도출되어 모형의 적합성이 있음을 확인하였다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.11-19
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• 2024

In this study, the program was modified by adding the empirical formula of EurOtop (2018) to enable calculation of wave overtopping on armoured slope structures in the FUNWAVE-TVD model using the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation. The validity of the modified numerical model was verified by comparing it with CLASH data and experiment data for the rubble mound structure. This model accurately reproduced the change in wave overtopping rate according to the difference in the roughness factor of the armoured block, and well reproduced the rate of decrease in wave overtopping rate due to the increase in relative freeboard. The overtopping rate of the armoured slope structures showed significant differences depending on the positioning condition of the armoured blocks. When Tetrapods were placed with regular positioning, the overtopping rate increased significantly compared to when they were placed with random positioning, and it was consistent with when they were placed with Rocks. Meanwhile, when rocks were placed in one row, the wave overtopping rate was greater than when rocks were placed in two rows, which is believed to be due to the influence of the roughness and permeability of the structure's surface.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.46 no.5
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• pp.491-504
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• 2013

In this study, wave breakings over a shelf region are investigated under irregular wave conditions through laboratory experiments in a wave flume. Numerical simulations based on the Boussinesq-type equations are also conducted. The characteristics of breaking waves such as significant wave height, crest and trough heights, the mean water level and the stable wave height are obtained by analyzing laboratory measurements in detail. Obtained results are compared with those of the Boussinesq-type equations model. A very reasonable agreements is observed. The broken waves over a horizontal bottom asymptotically approach a stable wave height($H_{stable}$). In this study, the relative stable wave height is found as $H_{stable}/h{\fallingdotseq}0.56$ for irregular wave.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.26 no.5B
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• pp.551-555
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• 2006

In this study, new dispersion-correction terms are added to a leap-frog finite difference scheme for the linear shallow-water equations with the purpose of considering dispersion effects of the linear Boussinesq equations for propagation of tsunamis. The numerical model developed in this study is tested to the problem that the initial free surface displacement is a Gaussian hump over a constant water depth, and the predicted numerical results are compared with analytical solutions. The results of the present numerical model are accurate in comparison with those of existing models.

• Journal of Mechanical Science and Technology
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.331-337
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• 2000

A numerical procedure for contact analysis and calculating subsurface stress was developed. The procedure takes the advantage of signal processing technique in frequency domain to achieve shorter computing time. Boussinesq's equation was adopted as a response function in contact analysis. The validity of this procedure was proved by comparing the numerical results with the exact solutions. The fastness of this procedure was also compared with other algorithm.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.350-356
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• 1993

We carry out a numerical calculation to understand the nonlinear wave deformation around breakwaters using the Boussinesq equation, which is weakly nonlinear and weakly dispersive shallow water equation. A numerical method based on a finite element scheme and fourth order Runge-Kutta algorithm is employed to investigate the diffraction of incident waves by the breakwater. As a computational model, two-dimensional wave flume is treated. The breakwaters is perpendicular to the side wall of a channel. From the numerical results, the wave deformations according to the change of the length and the thickness of breakwaters are investigated. We also investigate the effect of the nonlinearity by comparing the results with the linear solutions.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.20 no.6 s.73
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• pp.35-40
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• 2006

In recent years, there's been strong demand for seawalls that havea gentle slope and permeability that serveswater affinity and disaster prevention from wave attack. The aim of this study is to examine wave transformation, including wave run-up that propagates on the coastal structures. A numerical model based on the weak nonlinear dispersive Boussinesq equation, together with the unsteady nonlinear Darcy law for fluid motion in permeable layer, is developed. The applicability of this numerical model is examined through Deguchi and Moriwaki's hydraulic model test on the permeable slopes. From this study, it is found that the proposed numerical model can predict wave transformation and run-up on the gentle slope with a permeable layer, but can't show accurate results for slopes steeper than about 1:10.

• Journal of applied mathematics & informatics
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• v.27 no.5_6
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• pp.1265-1277
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• 2009

In this paper, we apply a new decomposition method for solving initial and boundary value problems, which is due to Noor and Noor [18]. The analytical results are calculated in terms of convergent series with easily computable components. The diagonal Pade approximants are applied to make the work more concise and for the better understanding of the solution behavior. The proposed technique is tested on boundary layer problem; Thomas-Fermi, Blasius and sixth-order singularly perturbed Boussinesq equations. Numerical results reveal the complete reliability of the suggested scheme. This new decomposition method can be viewed as an alternative of Adomian decomposition method and homotopy perturbation methods.