• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.13-24
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• 2002

In a physically realistic but simplified manner, an attempt is made in this study to develop a predictive model for swash hydrodynamics across the shore due to the storm waves on an arbitrary beach profile. Date from the SUPERTANK laboratory Data Collection Project are used for the model development, in which experiments were designed to simulate dune erosion under storm conditions at a prototype scale. The model predicts variations of swash height, velocity and period across the beach face in a swash zone. In general, the model proves to be capable of predicting variations of swash height, velocity and period across the shore. Quantitatively better predictions for the swash parameters could be achieved by improving the prediction of the beach face elevation, ymax, where the significant swash height becomes zero.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.36 no.4
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• pp.251-269
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• 2022

The process-based XBeach model has numerous empirical parameters because of insufficient understanding of hydrodynamics and sediment transport on the nearshore; hence, it is necessary to calibrate parameters to apply to various study areas and wave conditions. Therefore, the calibration process of parameters is essential for the improvement of model performance. Generally, the trial-and-error method is widely used; however, this method is passive and limited to various and comprehensive parameter ranges. In this study, the Generalized Likelihood Uncertainty Estimation (GLUE) method was used to estimate the optimal range of three parameters (gamma, facua, and gamma2) using morphological field data collected in Maengbang beach during the four typhoons that struck from September to October 2019. The model performance and optimal range of empirical parameters were evaluated using Brier Skill Score (BSS) along with the baseline profiles, sensitivity, and likelihood density analysis of BSS in the GLUE tools. Accordingly, the optimal parameter combinations were derived when facua was less than 0.15 and simulated well the shifting shape, from crescentic sand bar to alongshore uniform sand bars in the surf zone of Maengbang beach after storm impact. However, the erosion and accretion patterns nearby in the surf zone and shoreline remain challenges in the XBeach model.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Earth Science Education
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.110-120
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• 2020

It is generally reported that field learning and a class using regional materials motivate learning and give a positive effect on learning of geology unit, science subject. The purpose of this study is to develop and to suggest regional materials for learning of geology unit, science subject at Jaeundo. The results of this study are as follows. Regional materials were developed at three locations (namjin dockyard area, yangsan beach area and dunjang beach area) of the study area. Namjin dockyard area (A site) is composed of terrain of sea cliff, sand beach and mud flat. Sedimentary rocks, weathering phenomenon of rocks and strata of various shape are distributed in sea cliff of A site. Yangsan beach area (B site) is composed of coastal terrain as sea cliff and sand beach about 1.5km long. Sedimentary rocks and rhyolite are distributed in sea cliff of B site. Tafoni formed by weathering process of rocks are developed on sedimentary rock outcrop of B site. Dunjang beach area (C site) is composed of coastal terrain of sea cliff, sand beach about 2km long and sea stack. Stratified sedimentary rocks are distributed in sea cliff of C site. Sea stack located in near halmi island on the west side of dunjang beach area is a good sample showing erosion process of sea cave for a long time. Unique geomorphology and geology phenomena distributed in 3 sites at Jaeundo can be used as regional materials for learning of geology unit, science subject. And, Regional materials shall be used in conjunction with the text book data of geology units. These 3 sites of the study area are worth using as field learning course for elementary and middle school students.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.408-415
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• 2016

Small fishing ports and coastal structures installed in a relatively low sea water depth disturb the wave induced current and cause the collapse of equilibrium state of sediment transport. These structures creates diffracted waves and matter the concentration of waves to cause the beach erosion. In order to mitigate these eroding problems on the beach, many counter measurements were proposed such as detached breakwater, groin or headland; however, these methods interrupt the aesthetic view of sandy beach due to the exposed structures above the sea level and have difficulty of applying to those beaches with the good scenery. Furthermore, some of these methods create secondary environmental problems after the installations. To eliminate these problems, one of the countermeasures, artificial reefs have been selected and used worldwide to minimize the disturbance of the scenery and secondary effects on the environment. Meanwhile, it is important to set the design elements for installing the artificial reefs such as that of length, opening width, clearing distances from the shoreline and more. Nevertheless, there are no construction manuals or standards for designing the artificial reefs with these important design elements yet. In this study, different conditions of artificial reefs were used with various cases throughout hydraulic model test to precisely analyze the changes of waves and currents to propose the standards of design elements to install the artificial reefs.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.21-25
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• 2003

해안단애의 형성과 침식에 의한 해안선의 후퇴를 저지하기 위해 방조벽을 설치하여 해빈의 침식 변화과정에 관한 수치모의를 수행하였다. 평균수위의 상승을 동반하는 폭풍해일이 내습하는 경우 평균수위의 상승이 방조벽의 세굴을 가속화시킨다. 그러므로 본 연구는 사빈 해안에 방조벽을 설치하는 경우 해빈 침식의 거동을 예측하는데 이용할 수 있겠다.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.199-206
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• 2004

Construction of a large offshore structure in coastal area may cause serious morphological changes for a wide region ranging from shoreline to offshore behind the structure. Shin et at. [2000] and Shin and Hong [2004] identified the sediment transport patterns behind the large offshore structure through a series of three dimensional movable bed experiments. In present study, a hybrid three dimensional beach deformation model was suggested based on those sediment transport mechanisms revealed by experimental results of the preceding studies. The model was verified by the results of the three dimensional moveable bed experiments and they agreed well not only in reappeared tombolo in shoreline side but also in the erosion and deposition region behind offshore structure. In addition, the model was applied to real beach deformation problem, which was occurred by construction of artificial offshore islands, and it validates the applicability of the model.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.28 no.4D
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• pp.561-567
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• 2008

In this study, shoreline change was analyzed by RTK-GPS and advanced airborne LiDAR survey. For extraction of coastline, first of all, tide correction was conducted at all RTK-GPS points through the comparing with the corresponding tidal height, and cross section providing coastline was produced using Autocad Civil3D program. Comparing with two results of RTK-GPS (first, 29 Aug 2007; second, 6 Oct 2007) surveys, coastline of the first result had been decreased about 21m compare with that of the second. And it was also demonstrated that the length of coastline by the first RTK-GPS was 15m shorter than that by the airborne LiDAR survey (Dec. 2006). In addition, we recoquized that the erosion appeared in the top right-hand (dock area); the sediment in the bottom left-hand (Chosun beach area) of the Haeundae beach. As a result, therefore, it was learned that artificial sand filling for beach open and natural effects such as a typhoon, current drift, wind direction gave cause for area changes and coastline.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.61-97
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• 2016

This is the second of two papers on the 3D numerical modeling of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics. In Part I, the focus was on surf and swash zone hydrodynamics in the cross-shore and longshore directions. Here, we consider nearshore processes with an emphasis on the effects of oceanic forcing and beach characteristics on sediment transport in the cross- and longshore directions, as well as on foreshore bathymetry changes. The Delft3D and XBeach models were used with four turbulence closures (viz., ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES) to solve the 3D Navier-Stokes equations for incompressible flow as well as the beach morphology. The sediment transport module simulates both bed load and suspended load transport of non-cohesive sediments. Twenty sets of numerical experiments combining nine control parameters under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were simulated. For each case, the general morphological response in shore-normal and shore-parallel directions was presented. Numerical results showed that the ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ and H-LES closure models yield similar results that are in better agreement with existing morphodynamic observations than the results of the other turbulence models. The simulations showed that wave forcing drives a sediment circulation pattern that results in bar and berm formation. However, together with wave forcing, tides modulate the predicted nearshore sediment dynamics. The combination of tides and wave action has a notable effect on longshore suspended sediment transport fluxes, relative to wave action alone. The model's ability to predict sediment transport under propagation of obliquely incident wave conditions underscores its potential for understanding the evolution of beach morphology at field scale. For example, the results of the model confirmed that the wave characteristics have a considerable effect on the cumulative erosion/deposition, cross-shore distribution of longshore sediment transport and transport rate across and along the beach face. In addition, for the same type of oceanic forcing, the beach morphology exhibits different erosive characteristics depending on grain size (e.g., foreshore profile evolution is erosive or accretive on fine or coarse sand beaches, respectively). Decreasing wave height increases the proportion of onshore to offshore fluxes, almost reaching a neutral net balance. The sediment movement increases with wave height, which is the dominant factor controlling the beach face shape.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.446-457
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• 2020

Crescentic sand bar in the coastal zone of eastern Korea is a common morphological feature and the rhythmic patterns exist constantly except for high wave energy events. However, four consecutive typhoons that directly and indirectly affected the East Sea of Korea from September to October in 2019 impacted the formation of longshore uniform sand bar and overall shoreline retreats (approx. 2 m) although repetitive erosion and accretion patterns exist near the shoreline. Widely used XBeach to predict storm erosions in the beach is utilized to investigate the morphological response to a series of storms and each storm impact (NE-E wave incidence). Several calibration processes for improved XBeach modeling are conducted by recently reported calibration methods and the optimal calibration set obtained is applied to the numerical simulation. Using observed wave, tide, and pre & post-storm bathymetries data with optimal calibration set for XBeach input, XBeach successfully reproduces erosion and accretion patterns near MSL (BSS = 0.77 (Erosion profile), 0.87 (Accretion profile)) and observed the formation of the longshore uniform sandbar. As a result of analysis of simulated total sediment transport vectors and bed level changes at each storm peak Hs, the incident wave direction contributes considerable impact to the behavior of crescentic sandbar. Moreover, not only the wave height but also storm duration affects the magnitude of the sediment transport. However, model results suggest that additional calibration processes are needed to predict the exact crest position of bar and bed level changes across the inner surfzone.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.197-206
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to evaluate coastal erosion due to a sea-level rise. The shoreline retreat rate was calculated due to future sea-level rise. Shoreline retreat rates were quantified with the cross-sectional data of 23 sandy coasts (12 sites from east coast, 5 sites from south coast, and 6 sites of west coast) and 3 cross-sectional profiles from each side of the coasts in Korea. The theory of equilibrium beach profile was employed in this study to evaluate the applicability of the theory into the coast of Korea and was tested with 15 cross-sectional beach profiles. Four scenarios of future sea level rise such as 38 cm, 59 cm, 75 cm, and 100 cm were adopted to estimate the shoreline retreat rates. Overall shoreline retreat rates for the coasts in Korea were predicted as 43.7% for 38 cm, 60.3% for 59 cm, 69.2% for 75 cm, and 80.1% for 100 cm sea level rises, respectively. Retreat rates in the east coast (29.6% for 38 cm, 45.1% for 59 cm, 56.0% for 75 cm, and 69.9% for 100 cm) showed relatively low compared to the south coast (51.9%, 67.6%, 77.2%, 87.3%) and the west coast (53.8%, 71.0%, 78.5%, 86.4%). However, all sandy coasts in Korea were assessed to be vulnerable with increasing sea-level rise. There are uncertainties in the assessment of this study, which include the limitation of the assessment model and the lack of the spatio-temporal data of the beach profiles. Therefore, this study shows that it is very important to spend integrated efforts to respond coastal erosion including comprehensive observations(monitoring) and the development of scientific understanding on the field.