Browse > Article
http://dx.doi.org/10.9765/KSCOE.2020.32.6.446

Field Observation of Morphological Response to Storm Waves and Sensitivity Analysis of XBeach Model at Beach and Crescentic Bar  

Jin, Hyeok (Dept. of Convergence study on the Ocean Science and Technology, Korea Maritime and Ocean University)
Do, Kideok (Dept. of Ocean Engineering, Korea Maritime and Ocean University)
Chang, Sungyeol (Haeyeon Engineering and Consultants Corp)
Kim, In Ho (Dept. of Earth and Environmenal Engineering, Kangwon National University)
Publication Information
Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers / v.32, no.6, 2020 , pp. 446-457 More about this Journal
Abstract
Crescentic sand bar in the coastal zone of eastern Korea is a common morphological feature and the rhythmic patterns exist constantly except for high wave energy events. However, four consecutive typhoons that directly and indirectly affected the East Sea of Korea from September to October in 2019 impacted the formation of longshore uniform sand bar and overall shoreline retreats (approx. 2 m) although repetitive erosion and accretion patterns exist near the shoreline. Widely used XBeach to predict storm erosions in the beach is utilized to investigate the morphological response to a series of storms and each storm impact (NE-E wave incidence). Several calibration processes for improved XBeach modeling are conducted by recently reported calibration methods and the optimal calibration set obtained is applied to the numerical simulation. Using observed wave, tide, and pre & post-storm bathymetries data with optimal calibration set for XBeach input, XBeach successfully reproduces erosion and accretion patterns near MSL (BSS = 0.77 (Erosion profile), 0.87 (Accretion profile)) and observed the formation of the longshore uniform sandbar. As a result of analysis of simulated total sediment transport vectors and bed level changes at each storm peak Hs, the incident wave direction contributes considerable impact to the behavior of crescentic sandbar. Moreover, not only the wave height but also storm duration affects the magnitude of the sediment transport. However, model results suggest that additional calibration processes are needed to predict the exact crest position of bar and bed level changes across the inner surfzone.
Keywords
storm erosion; crescentic sandbar; numerical simulation; longshore uniform bar;
Citations & Related Records
Times Cited By KSCI : 2  (Citation Analysis)
연도 인용수 순위
1 Athanasiou, P. (2017). Understanding the interactions between crescentic bars, human interventions and coastline dynamics at the East coast of South Korea. MSc thesis, Delft University of Technology, Delft.
2 Castelle, B., Marieu, V., Bujan, S., Splinter, K.D., Robinet, A., Senechal, N. and Ferreira, S. (2015). Impact of the winter 2013-2014 series of severe Western Europe storms on a double-barred sandy coast: Beach and dune erosion and megacusp embayments. Geomorphology, 238, 135-148.   DOI
3 Castelle, B., Ruessink, B.G., Bonneton, P., Marieu, V., Bruneau, N. and Price, T.D. (2010). Coupling mechanisms in double sandbar systems. Part 1: Patterns and physical explanation. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 35(4), 476-486.   DOI
4 Chang, Y.S., Jin, J.Y., Jeong, W.M. and Do, J.D. (2017). Numerical investigation of the impacts of extreme storm waves on coastal erosion in Hujeong Beach using XBeach model. Journal of Coastal Disaster Prevention, 4(4), 197-206.   DOI
5 Cho, Y.J. and Kim, I.H. (2019). Preliminary study on the development of a platform for the selection of optimal beach stabilization measures against the beach erosion - centering on the yearly sediment budget of mang-bang beach. Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers, 31(1), 28-39 (in Korean).   DOI
6 Daly, C., Roelvink, D., van Dongeren, A., van Thiel de Vries, J. and McCall, R. (2012). Validation of an advective-deterministic approach to short wave breaking in a surf-beat model. Coastal Engineering, 60(1), 69-83.   DOI
7 De Vet, P.L.M. (2014). Modelling sediment transport and morphology during overwash and breaching events. MSc thesis, Delft University of Technology, Delft.
8 Deltares (2018). XBeach Documentation, Release XBeach v1.23.5527 XbeachX FINAL. Deltares, Netherlands.
9 Do, K., Shin, S., Cox, D. and Yoo, J. (2018). Numerical simulation and large-scale physical modelling of coastal sand dune erosion. Journal of Coastal Research, 85(May), 196-200.   DOI
10 Do, K. and Yoo, J. (2020). Morphological response to storms in an embayed beach having limited sediment thickness. Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science, 234, 106636.   DOI
11 Passeri, D.L., Long, J.W., Plant, N.G., Bilskie, M.V. and Hagen, S.C. (2018). The influence of bed friction variability due to land cover on storm-driven barrier island morphodynamics. Coastal Engineering, 132, 82-94.   DOI
12 Elsayed, S.M. and Oumeraci, H. (2017). Effect of beach slope and grain-stabilization on coastal sediment transport: An attempt to overcome the erosion overestimation by XBeach. Coastal Engineering, 121, 179-196.   DOI
13 McCall, R.T., Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M., Plant, N.G., Van Dongeren, A.R., Roelvink, J.A., Thompson, D.M. and Reniers, A.J.H.M. (2010). Two-dimensional time dependent hurricane overwash and erosion modeling at Santa Rosa Island. Coastal Engineering, 57(7), 668-683.   DOI
14 Orzech, M.D., Reniers, A.J.H.M., Thornton, E.B. and MacMahan, J.H. (2011). Megacusps on rip channel bathymetry: Observations and modeling. Coastal Engineering, 58(9), 890-907.   DOI
15 Pender, D. and Karunarathna, H. (2013). A statistical-process based approach for modelling beach profile variability. Coastal Engineering, 81, 19-29.   DOI
16 Razak, M.S.A., Dastgheib, A., Suryadi, F.X. and Roelvink, D. (2014). Headland structural impacts on surf zone current circulations. Journal of Coastal Research, 70, 65-71.   DOI
17 Roelvink, D., McCall, R., Mehvar, S., Nederhoff, K. and Dastgheib, A. (2018). Improving predictions of swash dynamics in XBeach: The role of groupiness and incident-band runup. Coastal Engineering, 134, 103-123.   DOI
18 Son, S., Kim, J., Yoon, H.D., Jung, T.H., Do, K. and Shin, S. (2017). An Observational and numerical study of storm-induced morphologic changes at sanpo beach, Korea. Journal of Coastal Research, 33(Special Issue 79), 334-338.
19 Roelvink, J.A. (1993). Dissipation in random wave groups incident on a beach. Coastal Engineering, 19(1-2), 127-150.   DOI
20 Smit, M., Reniers, A.J.H.M. and Stive, M.J.F. (2010). What Determines Nearshore Sandbar Response?. Proceedings of 32nd Conference on Coastal Engineering, Shanghai, China, 1-7.
21 Sonu, C.J. (1973). Three-dimensional beach changes. The Journal of Geology, 81(1), 42-64.   DOI
22 Soulsby, R.L. (1997). Dynamics of Marine Sands. Thomas Telford Publications, London.
23 Van de Lageweg, W.I., Bryan, K.R., Coco, G. and Ruessink, B.G. (2013). Observations of shoreline-sandbar coupling on an embayed beach. Marine Geology, 344, 101-114.   DOI
24 van Enckevort, I.M.J., Ruessink, B.G., Coco, G., Suzuki, K., Turner, I.L., Plant, N.G. and Holman, R.A. (2004). Observations of nearshore crescentic sandbars. Journal of Geophysical Research C: Oceans, 109(6), 1-17.
25 van Rijn, L.C., Wasltra, D.J.R., Grasmeijer, B., Sutherland, J., Pan, S. and Sierra, J.P. (2003). The predictability of cross-shore bed evolution of sandy beaches at the time scale of storms and seasons using process-based profile models. Coastal Engineering, 47(3), 295-327.   DOI
26 Wright, L.D. and Short, A.D. (1984). Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: A synthesis. Marine Geology, 56(1-4), 93-118.   DOI
27 Roelvink, D., Reniers, A., van Dongeren, A., van Thiel de Vries, J., McCall, R. and Lescinski, J. (2009). Modelling storm impacts on beaches, dunes and barrier islands. Coastal Engineering, 56(11-12), 1133-1152.   DOI
28 van Rijn, L.C. (2007). Unified view of sediment transport by currents and waves. III: Graded beds. Journal of Hydraulic Engineering, 133(7), 761.   DOI
29 Vousdoukas, M.I., Ferreira, O., Almeida, L.P. and Pacheco, A. (2012). Toward reliable storm-hazard forecasts: XBeach calibration and its potential application in an operational earlywarning system. Ocean Dynamics, 62, 1001-1015.   DOI