• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.65-75
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• 2002

The changes of sea bottom configuration, which may cause the coastal disasters, have been considered as social problems. It is obvious that the beach deformation is attributable to the sediment transport associated with erosion and siltation in coastal areas such esturies, channel and harbors. The prediction method and countermeasures far them, however, are not on the level of satisfaction, which indicates that make efforts should be made on developing them. Groin was constructed at Hak-Dong gravel beach to embark ship at 1996, as a result region of right of groin, severe erosion of beach is proceeding till now 1999. In this study, based on the field measurements, involved the one-line theory model which was selected for the prediction of shoreline change to prepare coastal protection methods of Hak-Deng gravel beach. Author found that the storaged sediment estimation model by Sonu and Beek(1971) is useful model at the Hak-Dong gravel beach by the use of topographical survey data from September, 1998 to September, 1999.

• Journal of The Geomorphological Association of Korea
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.161-172
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• 2012

The Taeanhaean National Park is located on the middle of the west coast of Korean peninsula. Due to the relatively high wave energy, large tidal range which is about 7m, and extremely complex coastal line, various coastal land-forms such as mud-flats, sand beaches, sand dunes, sea cliffs etc. are well distributed in this area, and thus various coastal ecosystems are well preserved. However, because of reckless sand diggings and construction of artificial structures in the coastal zone, the natural flowing and exchange of coastal deposits were disturbed and the erosion in the beach and the dune has been seriously accelerated. To understand of the causes of these problems, we tried three times periodical measuring with VRS/RTK GPS instrument at the Hakampo and Anmyeon beach. According to seasonal changes of the coast-line, beach area and cross-section of study sites, generally erosion process was dominated in the summer and deposition process was followed after summer.

• Journal of The Geomorphological Association of Korea
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.45-57
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• 2021

In this study, the changes in morphology of Dokdo's gravel beach and its responses due to a storm event were analyzed using the aerial photos and 3D LiDAR data obtained during an ecosystem survey of the Dokdo in 2020. Dongdo Island's gravel beach, shown by aerial photo analysis, increased in area due to sedimentation after the construction of a dock, but there was no more significant changes in area after having grown to Sutdolbawi inside the dock. The changes in volume of the gravel beach were indicated based on 3D data acquired in May and November 2020. A strong typhoon that passed in September, 2002, caused erosion on the backshore and sedimentation on the foreshore and formed the berm by about 1.5 to 2 m high. The analysis showed that the sedimentation was 94.76 m³ in volume and 329 m² in area and the erosion was 250.75 m³ in volume and 603m² in area, which suggested that the overall change of the gravel beach was erosion. The changes in the morphology of the gravel beach on Seodo Island occurred with the seasons along with the changes in area. In addition, berms of different altitudes appeared on the southern and northern sides of the spit, which was also estimated to have formed by the seasonal current direction and wave energy.

• Journal of Coastal Disaster Prevention
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.111-120
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• 2019

In coastal morphological modelling, there are a number of input factors: wave height, water depth, sand particle size, bed friction coefficients, coastal structures and so forth. Measurements or estimates of these input data may include uncertainties due to errors by the measurement or hind-casting methods. Therefore, it is necessary to consider the uncertainty of each input data and the range of the uncertainty during the evaluation of numerical results. In this study, three uncertainty factors are considered with regard to the prediction of coastal erosion in Ilsan beach located in Ilsan-dong, Ulsan metropolitan city. Those are wave diffraction effect of XBeach model, wave input scenario and the specification of the coastal structure. For this purpose, the values of mean wave direction, significant wave height and the height of the submerged breakwater were adjusted respectively and the followed numerical results of morphological changes are analyzed. There were erosion dominant patterns as the wave direction is perpendicular to Ilsan beach, the higher significant wave height, and the lower height of the submerged breakwater. Furthermore, the rate of uncertainty impacts among mean wave direction, significant wave height and the height of the submerged breakwater are compared. In the study area, the uncertainty influence by the wave input scenario was the largest, followed by the height of the submerged breakwater and the mean wave direction.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.19-26
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• 2000

A numerical model is applied for predicting two-dimensional beach and dune erosion during severe storms. The model uses equation of sediment continuity and dynamic equation, governing the on-offshore sediment transport due to a disequilibrium of wave energy dissipation. And the model also uses sediment transport rate parameter K from dimensional analysis instead of that recommended by Kriebel. During a storm, a beach profile evolves to a form where the depth at the surf zone is related to the distance seaward of the waterline. In general, the erosion in the beach profile is found to be sensitive to equilibrium profile parameter, sediment transport rate parameter, storm surge level and breaking wave height.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.40 no.2
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• pp.87-98
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• 2018

It is widely known that infragravity waves can exert significant influence on wave run-up over beaches. Large run-ups can lead to overwash, flooding and severe coastal erosion. In spite of the importance of infragravity waves in relation to wave run-up and coastal erosion, few studies have been carried out with regard to the impact of infragravity waves on nearshore morphodynamics with respect to eastern beaches in Korea. The purpose of this study is to investigate the importance of infragravity waves in nearshore numerical modelling. For the study, XBeach model was set up to analyze morphodynamics in December 2016, in Ilsan beach which is located in Ilsan-dong, Ulsan Metropolitan City. After validation of the XBeach model, numerical experiments were conducted by using various directional spreading coefficients. As the directional spreading coefficients are increased, the effect of infragravity waves is also enhanced by narrowband frequency. With the increasing effect of infragravity waves, the amount of sediment transport is also increased and an erosion dominant pattern is found in the south part of Ilsan beach and a deposition pattern in the north part of the beach mainly due to the wave incident direction of NNE.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.142-149
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• 2019

In this study, the past erosion history and current status in the CHUNG-UI beach of Eulwang-dong, Jung-gu, Incheon-Si, South Korea were investigated and analyzed the wave with wave-induced current to investigate the causes of coastal erosion. As a result, the significant wave height ($H_{1/3}$) was in the range of 0.07~1.57 m and the mean value was 0.21 m. The maximum wave height ($H_{max}$) was in the range of 0.02-4.76m and the mean value was 0.27m. The vertical wave height and cycles were estimated through numerical model experiments of wave transformation. The 50-year frequency design wave height ranged from 0.82m to 3.75m. As a result of the experiment of wave-induced current, wave-induced current in the CHUNG-UI beach was decreased after the installation of the Detached breakwater and the Jetty. On the other hand, when the crest elevation was increased up to 5 m, there was no significant change, but when the crest elevation was increased to 8m, strong wave-induced current occurred around the submerged breakwaters due to lowered depth of water. In addition, the main erosion of the CHUNG-UI beach is due to the intensive invasion of the wave characteristics coming from the outer sea into the white sandy beach. The deformation of the wave centered on the front of the sandy beach caused additional longshore currents flowing parallel to the sandy beach and rip currents in the transverse direction, thus confirming that the longshore sediment was moved out of the front and out of the sea. The results of this study can be used as preliminary data for the recovery of the sand and the selection of efficient erosion prevention facilities.

• Water for future
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.355-364
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• 1986

This research was carried out to decide both in the field and the laboratory the similarity between the erosion and the accretion in the change of the beach profile. The results obtained were as follows: (1) It was impossible to decide only by C value the similarity between the erosion and the accretion of the actual beach by application of Horikawa's theory. (2) It was difficult to decide the similarity only by values of $H_//L_0$ formula. (3) Observation of dimensionless value of $H_//L_0$ and C, $H_//L_0$ and $L_{sr}$ in the field and the laboratory showed that there was a similarity between the erosion and the accretion which set in at 0.024 of $H_//L_0$. (4) The Knowlege of the wave steepness would help to discriminate the erosion and the accretion.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.366-371
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• 2012

High swell has been known for the one of the main causes of beach erosion in the east coast of Korea. In this study, coastal topography changes due to high swells are simulated to find its effect on the backshore by using movable bed experiments and numerical experiments. Sea bottom topographical changes due to various incident waves were investigated using CSHORE model in the numerical experiments. Furthermore, the mechanism and the phenomena of beach erosion due to waves and high swells on the foreshore and backshore were analyzed and compared with movable bed hydraulic experiments.

• Proceedings of the KSRS Conference
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• v.2
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• pp.760-763
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• 2006

In this paper, a small portion of coastline on the EAST SEA was studied using CORONA panoramic satellite photo and 1:5000 Korean National Topographic Map. The project site near Kangneung city was 3 Km shoreline on the Kangmoon Beach and the SongJeong Beach, which have suffered from severe erosion. The first and the most important step was to rectify a CORONA image over the project site. A rigid mathematical model and a heuristic polynomial transformation were used for the purpose. The rectified image was overlaid with 1:5000 Korean National Topographic Map produced by aerial mapping. Among numerous methods for shoreline erosion measurement, area-based approach was chosen and used for the computation for annual shoreline recession. The final result of the analysis was that the average recession in the period of 1963-1998 was 33.6m and the annual rate was 0.96m.