Browse > Article
http://dx.doi.org/10.5762/KAIS.2019.20.6.142

The Study of Wave, Wave-Induced Current in CHUNG-UI Beach  

Chang, Pyong-Sang (Department of Civil Engineering, University of Seoul)
Bae, Sung-Gyu (Department of Environment & Construction Management, Korean Air Co. Ltd)
Publication Information
Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society / v.20, no.6, 2019 , pp. 142-149 More about this Journal
Abstract
In this study, the past erosion history and current status in the CHUNG-UI beach of Eulwang-dong, Jung-gu, Incheon-Si, South Korea were investigated and analyzed the wave with wave-induced current to investigate the causes of coastal erosion. As a result, the significant wave height ($H_{1/3}$) was in the range of 0.07~1.57 m and the mean value was 0.21 m. The maximum wave height ($H_{max}$) was in the range of 0.02-4.76m and the mean value was 0.27m. The vertical wave height and cycles were estimated through numerical model experiments of wave transformation. The 50-year frequency design wave height ranged from 0.82m to 3.75m. As a result of the experiment of wave-induced current, wave-induced current in the CHUNG-UI beach was decreased after the installation of the Detached breakwater and the Jetty. On the other hand, when the crest elevation was increased up to 5 m, there was no significant change, but when the crest elevation was increased to 8m, strong wave-induced current occurred around the submerged breakwaters due to lowered depth of water. In addition, the main erosion of the CHUNG-UI beach is due to the intensive invasion of the wave characteristics coming from the outer sea into the white sandy beach. The deformation of the wave centered on the front of the sandy beach caused additional longshore currents flowing parallel to the sandy beach and rip currents in the transverse direction, thus confirming that the longshore sediment was moved out of the front and out of the sea. The results of this study can be used as preliminary data for the recovery of the sand and the selection of efficient erosion prevention facilities.
Keywords
Erosion; Wave; Wave-Induced Current; Significant Wave; Jetty; Submerged Breakwaters; Rip Current;
Citations & Related Records
연도 인용수 순위
  • Reference
1 S. H. Shin, K. Y. Hong "Development of Hybrid Three Dimensional Beach Deformation Model and Its Application", Journal of the Korea Society for Marine Environmental Engineering, Vol.7, No.4, pp.199-206, 2004. UCI: G704-001346.2004.7.4.002
2 J. S. LEE, D. H. Tac, J. G. Woo "Characteristics of Seasonal Sediment Transport in Haeundae Beach", Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers, Vol.19, No.6, pp.574-585, 2007. UCI: G704-000422.2007.19.6.008
3 H. S. Jang "Numerical Model Experiments of Wave Transformation for the Marine Structure Design", Journal of Information and Communication Convergence Engineering, Vol.16, No.3, pp.440-447, 2012. UCI: G704-SER000003195.2012.16.3.006
4 M. Umeyama, "Reynolds stresses and velocity distributions in a wave-current coexisting environment." Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Engineering, Vol.131, Issue 5, pp.203-212, Sep. 2005. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(2005)131:5(203)   DOI
5 Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries. Long Term Wave Climate Statistics Source Books. p.412, Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries, 1997.
6 D. Y. Lee, K. C. Chon, Estimation report of deep sea design wave in whole sea area II, Research Report, Korea Ocean Research & Development Institute, Korea, pp.337.
7 Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries. Wave Observation Data and Survey (1998-2003). p.360, Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries, 2003.
8 K. C. Chon, Research service for calculation of deep sea wave in whole sea area (2016), Research Report, Korea Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries, Korea, pp.115.
9 P. A. Madson, O. R. Sorensen, "A new form of the Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics. Part 2. A slowly-varying bathymetry", Coastal Engineering, Vol.18, No.3-4, pp.183-204, Dec. 1992. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(92)90019-Q   DOI