Ocean and Polar Research

Korea Institute of Ocean Science & Technology (한국해양과학기술원)
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Effect of Infra-Gravity Waves on Nearshore Morphodynamics in the East Coast : Case Study - Ilsan Beach

장주기 중력외파의 동해안 연안지형변화에 미치는 영향 연구 : 사례연구 - 일산해변

  • 손동휘 (한국해양과학기술원 운용해양예보연구센터) ;
  • 유제선 (한국해양과학기술원 운용해양예보연구센터) ;
  • 신현화 ((주)혜인E&C 항만부)
  • Received : 2018.06.11
  • Accepted : 2018.06.21
  • Published : 2018.06.30
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Abstract

It is widely known that infragravity waves can exert significant influence on wave run-up over beaches. Large run-ups can lead to overwash, flooding and severe coastal erosion. In spite of the importance of infragravity waves in relation to wave run-up and coastal erosion, few studies have been carried out with regard to the impact of infragravity waves on nearshore morphodynamics with respect to eastern beaches in Korea. The purpose of this study is to investigate the importance of infragravity waves in nearshore numerical modelling. For the study, XBeach model was set up to analyze morphodynamics in December 2016, in Ilsan beach which is located in Ilsan-dong, Ulsan Metropolitan City. After validation of the XBeach model, numerical experiments were conducted by using various directional spreading coefficients. As the directional spreading coefficients are increased, the effect of infragravity waves is also enhanced by narrowband frequency. With the increasing effect of infragravity waves, the amount of sediment transport is also increased and an erosion dominant pattern is found in the south part of Ilsan beach and a deposition pattern in the north part of the beach mainly due to the wave incident direction of NNE.

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References

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