• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.97-104
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• 2005

In this research, the fit of basic dresses was examined, by analyzing and comparing the satisfaction of fitness of basic dresses made by the draping method on a custom-made replica body form and that of a basic dress made by the flat pattern method. Basis dresses were produced by the draping method for each 52 subjects using custom-made body forms, and another kind basic dresses for each subjects were produced by the flat pattern method using measurements of body sizes. Both basic dresses received high scores for the satisfaction of fit, but the basic dresses produced by draping method received higher scores. Thus it is expected to produce a more successful fit by draping a basic dress on a custom-made body form. Future research using more subjects might confirm these results. A more concrete analysis through using additional satisfaction tests could be conducted. For example, each subject might also serve as an evaluator to rate her satisfaction of fit wearing each of the two custom-made dresses. Finally, examining various body forms is suggested.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.713-721
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• 2018

This study aimed to develop a draping manual for the basic bodice to be available in colleges and industries. For this, draping methods mentioned in six different textbooks were comparatively analyzed. As for the research method, draping methods were compared by using training textbook, and basic bodices designed with muslin were assessed using the 5-point Likert scale. First, the draping methods of basic bodices were comparatively analyzed. The main baselines were set as the center front line, the center back line, the bust line, and the shoulder blade line. The position of dart was suggested based on the princess line, in both the front and the back. The value of dart was classified as a fixed size with any associated excess. The length of dart was set based on the bust point and shoulder blade point or a fixed size. The amount of ease was randomly set based on the fixed size, bust circumference, waist circumference, interscye length, armholes and shoulder lines, or the worker's intuition. Second, according to the appearance evaluation of the patterns, the following patterns obtained the highest scores: A pattern 2.5cm away from the B.P point of the waist dart and shoulder dart in the frontal appearance, a pattern of 0.6~0.7cm ease for the front armhole, a pattern with an ease of 1.2cm in the bust and 0.6cm in the waist. As for back appearance, the pattern in which the point of waist dart is 2~3cm from the bust line received the highest score.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.208-218
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• 2003

The purpose of the study is to identify the designers' and the patterner's pattern making, draping and the use of dress form in domestic companies of designer's brand to present basic information for effective pattern works. It turned out that the designer brand companies at home use flat pattern and draping at the same time rather than draping only The effects of the use of draping lies in unique designs and elastic materials, which seems proper phenomena for the current design trend such as high duality and diversification. But, draping has such problems that the pattern takes long time to be finished and that the staffs don't acquire well the needed skills due to the lack of draping education. To secure the high added value of fashion, it is required to develop education programs for new skills and to apply draping actively. Also, it requires an educational system in which practice oriented skills are cultivated, and efficient investment into apparel business.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.309-320
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• 1991

The purpose of this study was to develope a pattern drafting method for various somatotype which contribute largely to increase the fitness and comfort of garments. This study had 8 subjects who were college girls who had prominent somatic characteristics. The study was carried out by the following procedures. 1. The 8 subjects who had prominent somatic characteristics were cheesed by photograph- ing. The somatotypes of 8 subjects were classified into Standard somatotype, Turning over somatotype, Bending somatotype and Turning over-Bending somatotype. 2. Under the criterion of the body surface development, the comparative investigation on the pattern and the sensory evaluation were accomplished in the flat pattern method and the draping pattern method. 3. The body surface development of them were made by the draping pattern method. 4. In the result of the comparative investigation and the sensory evaluation, it was found that the flat pattern had better appearance and comfort than the draping pattern, and the draping pattern included more somatic characteristics than the flat pattern. 5. On the basis of those result, the pattern drafting method according to the somatotype was indicated and it was examinated by the clothing experiment. 6. The sensory evaluation for appearance and comfort was applied to evaluate the new basic pattern for four somatotype by comparing it with the conventional basic pattern (Rim, won ja' 5). The result of the sensory evaluation, it was found that the new basic pattern was more suitable for each somatotype than the conventional basic pattern.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.101-113
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• 2016

This study was conducted in order to analyze draping and flat pattern according to jacket design, and provide basic materials for developing a jacket pattern that can enhance fitness, functionality, and aesthetic expression of clothes by reflecting esthetic expression of draping and efficiency of flat pattern at the same time. For the experimental jacket designs of a one-piece sleeve jacket and a two-piece sleeve jacket were selected among the entries of the designer Rubina for 2014 F/W Seoul Fashion Week. Designer brand Rubina usually produced clothes using draping and the designer brand company provided the experimental patterns for the study. We also had flat patterns of the same design and size specifications designed by a flat patternmaker who has 30 year-experience in flat pattern like Rubina. The test apparel jacket was made of 20's cotton yarns. Three models wore the jackets and evaluation on appearance fitness was conducted by 7 members in an expert panel group from August 10, 2015 to September 10, 2015. As a result of appearance fitness analysis on one-piece sleeve jacket, there were significant difference in 4 items among 17 items in terms of overall appearance. The appearance of jackets by draping had higher score than those using flat pattern. As for two-piece sleeve jacket, there were significant differences in 7 items among 17 items related to overall appearance. As for the items related to sleeve, 5 items out of 13 showed significant differences. Except for one item, appearance of jackets using draping had higher score than flat pattern. As for motion fitness, draping was evaluated to be more comfortable. Applying the items with high scores in appearance and motion fitness in draping to flat pattern, The study suggests a new jacket pattern development that would increase the satisfaction of consumers for future research.

• 대한전자공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한전자공학회 2001년도 하계종합학술대회 논문집(4)
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• pp.61-64
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• 2001

This paper proposes an automatic method for generating and 3D draping the skirt 3D models. The method constructs a 3D basic model of the skirts using elliptic cylinder and generates the various skirt 3D models by controlling the ellipses of the basic model. B-Spline approximates the wrinkles around the ellipse for the various 3D draping changing according to designs and textiles. We make some real skirts and investigate appearances for their drapes. This paper simulates their appearances and obtains good results. Furthermore, adaptation of the skirt 3D model to a personal character implements realistic coordination of the various skirts.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.399-403
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• 2004

대학에서 의류학과 교육은 그 목적에 따라 다양하나 의복구성은 의복제작과정을 이해하는데 필요한 것으로 의복디자인분야 부터 품질관리에 이르기까지 기본과목으로 되어있다. 의복제작은 인체의 이해에 따른 기본원형의 설계로 시작된다. 기본원형은 활용이 다양하여 모든 종목의 의복 패턴 제작이 가능해야 한다. 또한 각 인체 치수에 맞는 사이즈를 등급화하여 초보자라도 누구나 활용할 수 있는 기본원형을 설계하는 것이 필요하다. 따라서 본 연구는 20대 초반의 대학생을 대상으로 입체재단 방법에 의한 기본원형을 제작하여 등급별로 표준화된 치수를 산출하고 연구된 평면재단 방법에 의한 길의 기본원형을 비교 검정하여 적합성을 비교하였다. 석고법에 의하여 제작된 인체모형에서 드레이핑된 기본원형과 연구된 평면재단 방법에 의한 기본원형을 비교 검정한 결과 5단계로 치수를 등급화 하였다. 착장평가 결과 다양한 체형에 만족힌 결과를 얻어 의복구성을 시작하는 초보자들에게 활용하여 교육할 수 있으리라 기대한다.

• 복식
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• 제50권
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• pp.5-22
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• 2000

The study on the past costume should be done first for the creation of new style of fashion. That is one of the reasons why we have to annalize characteristic style in each period. Before the latter of nineteenth century one must have made the costume by draping design. Because the complicated clothes can be expressed by draping deign think that the subject draping design is even more important than other subject. But there haven't been the studies that analyzed the pattern of Art Nouveau style by draping design in Korea. Art Nouveau style is a certain one that was relatively more changeable than the ones of other periods. The purpose of this study is the analysis about the patterns of hourglass and S-curve style which represented the Art Nouveau style. The results of the study summarized as follows. 1. Bodice pattern : In the front Hourglass silhouette has the princess line for fitting bodice while S-curve silhouette has the wide midriff due to the blousing. There is the yoke in S-curve one. In the pattern of back bodice we can't see the much differences but Hourglass silhouette is used the princess line like the front one while S-curve is made use of the waist darts for fitting back. 2. Sleeve pattern : Hourglass silhouette is made of two pieces the upper part and lower part besides S-curve is consisted of one pieces. The former has the big upper part in order to the emphasis of the shoulder and the tight lower part. The latter is the tight sleeve that similar to the basic sleeve pattern at present. 3. Skirt pattern: There is partially a gored line in the front skirt in Hourglass silhouette however S-curve silhouette is consisted of the six pieces gored skirt. At this part we can also see the fact that s-curve is more complicated than Hourglass silhouette. 4. Others: Wecan find out the differences between Hourglass and S-curve pattern easily at the parts of the collar flounce wing and so on. Summing up, the patterns of S-curve style are more expanded than those of Hourgalss style for the most part.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권7호
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• pp.770-777
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• 2003

This paper proposes a geometrical method for generating and draping the skirt 3D models. The method constructs a 3D basic skirt model using a truncated elliptical cone and generates the various skirt 3D models by controlling the elliptical cone. The B-Spline approximates the 3D drapes which change variously according to the angles and the textiles of the skirts. The mapping sources consist of the textile textures and the skirt 2D model. The 2D models are obtained by mapping the 3D skirt models to the 2D plane. The mapping sources allow us to map the textiles to the 3D skirts. We make the real skirts for the 6 kinds of angles and textiles. and investigate the data of their drape appearances. The investigated data are applied to the virtual skirts. Appearances of the virtual skirts are similar to those of the real.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.562-577
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• 2003

The object of my research is to inquiry into the immediate constituent and techniques of underwear after looking into basic theory of underwear, techniques by materials classified according to the matter of elasticity, and studying flat pattern and draping which are basis of corset and brassiere structure focusing on corsetry among underwears and production techniques. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. To make the flat pattern of corset and brassiere fit to the body tightly, design dart two times without any space and draw smaller than the body. To support the breast sufficiently, move the side seam 1¼″ to the front panel and the seam should pass the apex in all occasions. For draping, dart should be added into short of elasticity materials in the past but dart is no use these days since the material today is extremely elastic. It is possible now to show the body line with only the seam or a pattern. In a case of elastic material, set the elastic direction to the grain line and have a draping as pulling from the center to the out side. As production technic, for an hem, put a zigzag stitch in elastic materials with a 10-20% short elastic band, pulling the band. Then make 3/16″-1/4″ short inseam.