• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제16권5호
• /
• pp.852-862
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this paper is to find how to do the width of skirt and the girth of the waist in the adequate pattern making for the obese women's skirt. Appearance test of the five experimental skirts was evaluated by the four experts in clothing construction. At the same time, 3D clothing air volume was observed for the five types of experimental skirt with different size specifications. The results from the appearance test were as follows; when the width of skirt pattern is set for(the shell girth/2), it was suggested w/4+1(front), w/4(back) for girth of the waist. On one hand, in case of (the shell girth of front)/2+(the shell girth of back)/2, it was suggested(the waist girth of front)/2 and(waist girth of back)/2 for obese women's skirt with the best appearance. As results, it was found that the width of skirt pattern for the obese women should be the greatest shell girth instead of hip girth. In the case of the hip girth, the amount of ease on hip was suggested 6cm. It was found that pattern with the wrinkle of ease was full of the gaps between body and skirt in 3D clothing air volume. In spreading out to 2D flat pattern from 3D scan data, when the width of skirt pattern was set for(the shell girth of front)/2+(the shell girth of back)/2, it was suggested(the waist girth of front/2)+(the waist girth of back/2) than the shell girth/2 in girth of the waist for the best appearance. And the conversion of 3D scan data into 2D flat pattern in curve shape of crosswise had to spread out of the plane in straight line. The obese women's clothing should be manufactured with systematical consideration of the diversity and scarcity of the obese women's body shape.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제22권3호
• /
• pp.357-367
• /
• 2020

This study collected the basic data required to develop a slim-fit jeans pattern for upper grade elementary school girls. First, a fit evaluation was made by selecting five slim-fit jeans of ready-to-wear brands. Subjects were four girls aged 11-12 with an average body size that evaluated the appearance and motion functionality of five brands of jeans. Five experts also evaluated their appearance. Second, pattern sizes were analyzed and compared with the average size of upper grade elementary school girls by measuring the pattern sizes of five brands jeans. As a result, Brand A received a high score in appearance and motion functionality. Brand E scored high with Brand A in appearance, while Brand E had the lowest score in motion functionality. For most of the five brand jeans, (+) ease was added to include a wide range of body sizes for upper grade elementary school girls, but the hip circumference, thigh circumference, and knee circumference of Brand E jeans were smaller than the average size of girls. The (-) ease was applied to make the figure look slim, which resulted in a high appearance score. However, since Brand E received a low score in the motion functionality, it could be seen that the (-) ease was not suitable for subjects although the material was stretchable. The result of this study will be used to develop a slim-fit jeans pattern suitable for upper grade elementary school girls.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제44권4호
• /
• pp.708-726
• /
• 2020

This study develops leggings patterns for pregnant women with increased needs in utilization and necessity. It provides basic data for the development of leggings for pregnant women. The pattern was deformed by analyzing the leggings of U company, and simulated using the DC Suite Program. SPSS 24.0 was used for the analysis. As a result of the appearance evaluation, the primary pattern had many spaces in the thighs, calves, and the upper part; in addition, wrinkles occurred in the upper part and the knee part. The length of the leggings was long and agglomeration in the ankle appeared. Wrinkles were reduced by setting the hip circumference, hip width, and leggings length to reflect the results of the primary in the case of the secondary pattern. A pattern was developed that closely adhered to the body without any wrinkles in the appearance evaluation of the final pattern. Future studies should examine legging patterns of pregnant women according to the material change. Wearing evaluation and appearance evaluation should be done by making actual leggings for pregnant women, not 3D simulation.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제18권5호
• /
• pp.892-907
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study was to compare torso pattern made by draping and flat pattern method in terms of the size of breast. The size of this study was classified as 75A and 75D according to the size of breast. Each torso pattern by the combination of the size and pattern method was compared and analyzed. In order to test the fit of the draping and flat pattern that was developed according to the size of breast, the outer appearance was evaluated. The results of the study were as follows: First, The most striking size difference was difference between the front and the back on bust line level, which decides on position of the side seam in comparison of size between draping and flat pattern of 75A and 75D. In the flat pattern, the difference between the front and the back in the size of breast was consistent regardless of a change in the size of breast. However, in the draping, the bigger breast led to the bigger difference between the front and the back on bustline level. Second, the flat pattern in 75D was evaluated to be the worst in 27 items among total 46 items for the evaluation of outer appearance in the draping and flat pattern of 75A and 75D. Third, regardless of size, the draping was evaluated to be more suitable in the areas related to neck, arm hole, and waist dart than the flat pattern. These results are suggesting that the draping is a method of reflecting characteristic of the body type more accurately than the flat pattern, and that the draping is a more suitable method than the flat pattern for the design of clothing pattern of the body type with big breast like 75D.

• 한국생활과학회지
• /
• 제16권5호
• /
• pp.969-977
• /
• 2007

The research thesis has been intended to make a comparative analysis on the basic bodice pattern and basic skirt pattern changing on the basis of setting waist line of dress form in an effort to set reasonable standards in selecting the standard lines of drees form. The thesis has made the wearing evaluation by producing the sample of upper and lower dress based on A pattern and B pattern. In details, A pattern functions to keep waist line flatly down from lateral waist-right to posterior waist in a little curved state, paralleling bust line and hipline with waistline. And, B pattern functions to keep waistline, bust line and hipline horizontal paralleling with ground surface. SPSS win 10.1 program was used for the analysis of evaluation and t-test. The result is as follows: For basic bodice-front of upper dress, A and B patterns have made little significant difference. With regard to basic bodice-back, B pattern has got the higher evaluation than A pattern, in the pattern stability and appearance. For basic skirt pattern, A pattern has got the lower evaluation in the aspect of total back appearance, back dart, hip line, and waist line, and front drape. Basic bodice pattern of A pattern, which takes on the different horizontal standard lines of dress form depending on the selection of waistline, and basic skirt pattern has scored less in terms of pattern stability and appearance.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제42권5호
• /
• pp.786-798
• /
• 2018

This study is based on anthropometric data from the 7th Size Korea, we selected five subjects with measurements similar to average women in their twenties. The subjects participated in adaptability assessments and appearance assessments of skinny jeans produced by 8 selected brands, to identify the pattern and measurements characteristics of jeans assessed to be superior in appearance and movement adaptability. The results of this study were as follows. First, according to the results of appearance assessment made by the specialist group, B brand earned the highest assessment in response to questions regarding if 'there is an appropriate amount of ease in the crotch area' on the front side and 'an appropriate amount of ease in the hip circumference area' on the back side. Based on the above results, Synthesizing the survey results and the appearance assessment and movement adaptability assessment results, we suggest that when drafting the pattern for the standard size of waist measurement 27 inches (67cm), the hip circumference should be given an appropriate amount of ease, of around -6.6cm (-7.2%). The thigh circumference should be set with an appropriate amount of ease, which is -5.3cm (-9.4%).

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제26권11호
• /
• pp.1502-1513
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study was to find relations between construction factors and adaptability on the 5 available raglan sleeve patterns through the drafting method. Also it was to suggest a functional sleeve pattern according to appearance and adaptability test. Three women in her twenties who have standard figure was selected as subjects. Raglan sleeves of 5 experimental clothes were rated by the appearance test and adaptability test. The major conclusions of this study are as follows. 1. The construction factors of the raglan sleeve are sleeve slant, sleeve cap height, biceps line, breast width. Bicep lines increased and sleeve cap height decreased as the sleeve slant decreased. The higher adaptability scores of raglan sleeves were, the lower sleeve slants were. 2. According to the appearance evaluation, B type was recorded the highest score 3. According to the adaptability scores, A type was recorded the highest score. In the pulled length of the waist-line, A type was the lowest movements among the pattern type. In the pulled length of the sleeve-line, A type was the lowest movements among the pattern types. Therefore A type was evaluated by the bort functional sleeve pattern type. Through the experiments, it was known that appearance and adaptability of the raglan sleeve patterns were effected by construction factor.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제28권5호
• /
• pp.637-647
• /
• 2004

The goal of this study was to develop bicycle apparel pattern for women cyclists. To investigate the pattern of bicycle apparel in Korea, anthropometric data were collected using direct and indirect measurements from October 2002 to July 2003. Three female subjects were recruited from forty measured women cyclists for pilot test. The differences between the responses of prototype bicycle apparel and existing bicycle apparel were compared using mean, standard deviation and t-test. The outfits for cyclists was completed through the three times rectification. Based on the results from the fit and appearance testing, I concluded as follows: The mean value of the center back length, back width, sleeve out-seam, bust ＆ thigh circumference, and weight of cyclists are more than the mean value of the non-cyclists. The result of fit evaluation by judges shows that there is a significant differences in the response to the shoulder, collar, movement of arms of jersey and movement of upper legs, crotch fit and general fit of shots. The result of appearance test between two outfits is no differences the mean value except the waist ease when sitting on cycle. Prototype bicycle apparel pattern for women cyclists developed and tested in this study have the potential to increase field performance and appearance.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제4권4호
• /
• pp.383-393
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study was to evaluate wearing evaluation method in order to propose well fitted bodice pattern. For this study, the subjects were drawn from obese boys at the ages 9 to 11. Wearing evaluation had use of 3 bodice type and 3 evaluative method. The appearance evaluation was to evaluate subjects by professional group. The functional evaluation was to valued subjects by self-evaluation. The quantitative evaluation was to estimate subjects through Electomyograph. Wearing evaluation was done through questionnaire of 32 item in objectivity, 36 item in subjectivity, and 36 item in quantity. The data were analyzed by using ANOVA. From wearing evaluation, appearance and functional evaluation had significant most of them but quantitative evaluation had not significant. It was known that the human sense was more sensitive the quantitative mechanism. And its obtained by both functional evaluation and quantitative evaluation, respectively was found to be significantly correlated, Independent relation was observed in the results from both appearance evaluation and functional evaluation as well as from both functional evaluation and quantitative evaluation. Therefore, we propose that it is proper to evaluate the propriety of bodice pattern for obese boys of school year, mutually compromising both appearance evaluation and functional evaluation or both functional evaluation and quantitative evaluation.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제18권6호
• /
• pp.1242-1253
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study is to suggest a designing method with excellent body suitability by analyzing clothingwearing porosity, comparing and analyzing patterns, and evaluating outer appearances by designing a prototype of study applied with design measurements for categories that have influence on the outer appearance of clothing through diverse research methods, by comparing and analyzing bunka and new bunka style basic pattern, which are proportional basic patterns most frequently used in schools for educational use to design bodice pattern for elderly women in their late 60s. As for the process of this study, the first stage selected study subjects, measured bodies. The second stage compared patterns of bunka and new bunka style basic pattern and evaluated outer appearances that deduced important pattern designing categories to design upper-torso bodice pattern of elderly women. The results of this study are as following ; As a result of comparing and analyzing bunka and new bunka style basic pattern, overall evaluation of outer appearance was excellent for new bunka style basic pattern, and bunka basic pattern received better reviews for the width and depth of front neck. In terms of waist circumference, waist front length, bust point location and bust point-bust point, bunka and new bunka style basic patterns showed a significant difference. new bunka style basic pattern had 4.5cm larger front armhole depth than bunka basic pattern, so it was evaluated to have more appropriate front armhole length, bust point location, and bust point-bust point. Through observation for primary excellent categories and precedent studies, 7 categories of front neck width, front neck depth, front interscye, back neck width, back neck depth, back interscye, and back armhole depth were deduced to have relations to the extra room around arm holes and waist that affect pattern designing method and porosity and evaluations of outer appearance.