• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.171-177
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• 2019

This paper aims to find the most effective feature selection method for the sake of opinion mining tasks. Basically, opinion mining tasks belong to sentiment analysis, which is to categorize opinions of the online texts into positive and negative from a text mining point of view. By using the five product groups dataset such as apparel, books, DVDs, electronics, and kitchen, TF-IDF and Bag-of-Words(BOW) fare calculated to form the product review feature sets. Next, we applied the feature selection methods to see which method reveals most robust results. The results show that the stacking classifier based on those features out of applying Information Gain feature selection method yields best result.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.8
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• pp.1-18
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• 2012

The purpose of the study was to offer in-depth understanding of the women's wear research trend in South Korea and thus to provide insights from the findings throughout the study to set appropriate directions for further development of women's wear related researches in the clothing and textile study area. The study considered research papers published by the 6 major apparel related journals listed on the KCI(Korea Citation Index) i.e. journals of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles(KSCT), the Korean Society of Costume(KSC), the Costume Culture Association (CCA), the Korean Society of Fashion Business(KSFB), the Korean Home Economics Association (KHEA) and the Korean Society for Clothing Industry(KSCI). A total of 380 research papers that were related with women's wear published from 2001 to 2010 were selected for the study and analyzed in the form of descriptive statistics using the SPSS Software ver. 18.0. The analysis was categorized according to the journals, years and research theme. The research themes were divided into various categories such as, clothing construction, textile science, fashion aesthetics and design, costume history and culture, apparel psychology and fashion marketing. The results derived from the research were: (1) the ratio of the research papers on the women's wear to the total papers published from 2001 to 2010 by the 6 subject journals was 380 to 6,815, i.e. 5.6% of the total papers; (2) journal of KSCT published the most women's wear research papers (N=149, 39.2%) and then the rest in order were the journal of CCA (N=69, 18.2%), the journal of KSC (N=68, 17.9%), the journal of KSFB (N=52, 13.7%), the journal of KHEA (N=39, 10.3%) and the journal of KSCI (N=3, 0.7%); (3) the proportions of the research themes for the women's wear study were in the order of the case study in marketing (N=135, 35.5%), body measurements and sizing systems in clothing construction (N=88, 23.2%), fashion design and aesthetics (N=83, 21.8%), pattern-making (N=63, 16.6%), and color study (N=11, 2.9%) and so on.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.158-175
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to understand and improve the clothing habits and the apparel industry of North Korea in preparation for the reunification of South and North Korea. For this study, literary data, reports, periodicals, interviews and internet data of the two Koreas were reviewed. North Korean clothing habits used to be monotonous and uniform but nowadays people's clothes have become somewhat brighter in color and more diverse in design than before. In particular, liberal and individual dressing habits appeared among the privileged classes. When taking part in national events, women have to wear the traditional Korean costume, Hanbok, while men wear business suits for formal wear. In general, men don't wear Hanbok. Students have to be in uniforms but blue jeans, T-shirts with English logos were popular among them reflecting their sensitivity and openness towards western cultures. The brides usually wear pink Hanboks and the bridegrooms wear black business suits for their wedding. North Koreans also wear Hanbok on national holidays like South Koreans. Clothing is the most important item in the trade of process commission between North and South Korea. Trading items are mid to low end men's clothing for the most part due to less emphasis on fashion in the North. The processing is indirect trade and composed of sample making and contracting, sending out materials and production, carrying in goods and setting accounts. To activate South-North trade, establishment of infrastructure, stabilization of shipping, reducing high costs of distribution, building direct communication system by setting up office in a neutral zone and simplifying procedures in applying for the South and North Korea Economic Cooperation Fund. On the other hand, clothing and textiles education is carried on at art colleges, light industries colleges and commercial colleges in Pyongyang. Clothing institutes which study Hanbok and Western clothes, are installed in each city and province. Graduates who majored in clothing and textiles are posted in institutes or apparel factories. Their job is designing, patternmaking and sewing for their customers. Most of them are women and in good state of economic conditions. The North Korean clothing industry has been the core national industry that has developed based on overseas demand form the mid 1980s. The standard is that of South Korea in the early 1980s. In 1999, trade of North Korean textile products with trade counterparts such as Japan and China was $1.3 million in exports and $1.27 in imports. Of this amount the export takes up 25.4% of the total exports in North Korea. However, fundamentally even in sectors that are irrelevant to politics such as the fashion clothing industry, trust between the South and North should be a prerequisite. Only through this can exchange between North and South and economic cooperation contribute towards the reunification.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.165-178
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• 1999

Knitwears it was only for the innerwear, but which has become more available for sportswear and highly valuable formal-dresses for women's apparel and is set a trend toward high value-added products worldwide. Also the industry connected knitwears is more widely applicative than woven industry and is running on the well founded basement for the small enterprises. This study notes that what problems are caused and which utilities can be expected when we design knitwears by Primavision and Texpia CAD system considered the programs for development of domestic knitwears industry. There are much various benefits for designing knitwears from CAD system as shortening working hours, convenience, accuracy, quality control and productivity. It doesn't depend on designer's technique, sense and experiences, but provides, through building the design accuracy, chance to have a precise communication with buyers to be satisfied with the multiplicity, uniqueness and high-quality resulting from reducing the mistake on the operation. But there are some problems for using CAD design system those are no selections for the form, type and thickness of the yarn. Even though it is knitted by the same gauge, the texture conditions show complete difference if the form and thickness is different with. The gauge control without regarding those ought to be improved and the yarn designing function should be appended like in a tektite design. And the CAD design system can not reflect the variables of operating knitting machine and needle. The CAD design system provides the manufacturers with merits those they can change the colors easily to select which one appeals to the customer and check the effects of producing and modeling on monitor. But, in the each producing progress, there are still problems to reduce the practical steps, so intensive care is required of each part.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.346-359
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• 2012

This study provides basic guidelines to enrich lecture content and teaching methods for university lecturers about basic clothing construction (flat pattern making). The survey was conducted from October $13^{th}$ to December $20^{th}$ 2010 by mail and e-mail on 96 selected clothing departments in Korean universities to investigate the content, method and condition of the course of basic pattern making. A total of 63.3% of survey respondents were PhD graduates, 80 percent majored 'Apparel Science and Technology', average of total teaching experience was 12.84 years and 40 percent had studied abroad. The surveyed universities were 4 year universities (70%), 2-3 year tenure colleges (27%), and Cyber Universities (3%). The average number of students in a class was 28.08 and the lab space and equipment was evaluated positively only when the number of students was 20 or less. The type of measurements for basic pattern drafting were 'individual student's sizes' (62%), 'ready-made clothes sizing system' (25%), 'professor's experiential sizes' (5%), 'dress form sizes' (3%). In addition, the percentage of using 'ready-made clothes sizing system' increased 13% over the previous study (Lee, 2000). At a basic pattern drafting stage, 'the error of body measurements' in the case of using individual student's sizes, 'the poor results of fitting for students who deviate from standard body size' in the case of using ready-made clothes sizing system, 'the lack of education about fitting' in the case of using dress form sizes had been pointed out as shortcomings. A total of 66% of survey respondents carried out muslin fitting; however, a lack of students and teacher feedback about fitting & alteration of paper patterns remained a problem.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.266-278
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• 2018

This study investigated the transformation of the Chanel jacket by looking at clothing design and constructional components. This study explored Chanel jacket's designs from 2001 S/S to 2016-17 F/W, and collected designs from Samsung Design Net and Vogue. The study used 690 designs with the following results. First, in the silhouette of the Chanel jacket, straight silhouette and hourglass silhouette had the most; in addition, in the length, hip line and under hip line were in order. Second, in case of collar and neckline, the form of a non-collar was the most and revealed the persistence of round neckline which is the basic style of a Chanel jacket. Third, in the shape of sleeves, the loose-fit straight sleeves, wide sleeves, and cocoon sleeves appeared most often. In method of closure, button, zipper were in order, and snaps or without closure appeared. Fourth, in the form of braids, various forms such as twisted yarns, leashes, or lace were used, and patch pockets were mainly used in pockets. Chanel maintains its original design by using various methods. Chanel tried to improve activity and functionality through silhouettes, lengths, necklines, and sleeves. The unchanging expression of the world of Chanel will continue to display and inherit future value. This study can provide Chanel's unique characteristics and new ideas that can transform their origins for jacket design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.5
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• pp.82-98
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• 2016

Korea and Japan have a cultural homogeneity because they were affected by China. However, each country has developed its own original culture due to their own national characteristic and endemism, In traditional clothing, though Korea and Japan share the same origin, they have developed their own form, Hanbok and Kimono, which have completely different looks. The differences in the traditional clothing is the result of the differences in each country's aesthetic sense, which is reflects in the artwork of those days. Ink-and-wash painting was the typical painting form in East Asia, so Korean and Japanese ink-and-wash painting from that period can be used to observe the differences in the aesthetic sense. This study aims to search for commonly shared aesthetic sense in the design process of Hanbok and Kimono by analyzing the styles of a representative Korean painting, "Sehando(Wintry Days)" and a representative Japanese painting, "Pine Trees Screen". H. Wolfflin's methodology influenced not only painting, but also architecture and sculpture. Therefore, this theory can be applied to clothing, which can be considered a type of sculpture. Modernization of traditional clothing has to start by analyzing the aesthetic sense of artisans that have affected the design of traditional clothing. To spread Hanbok globally and differentiate it from Japanese clothing, we have to acknowledge the differences between Korean and Japanese aesthetic sense, and based on this, we have to develop the design of Hanbok.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.398-418
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• 2024

This study aims to examine how the body and clothing of Jesus Christ are represented in the Russian Transfiguration of Christ icons of the 15th and 16th centuries and why it is considered to have established a distinct Russian iconography free from Byzantine influence. The study analyzes the Russian icons comparing them with their Byzantine prototypes to identify the distinctive 'Russianness' of the representation. The research methods comprise a qualitative analysis of the literature on Russian Orthodoxy, Russian icons, Christian theology, and Christ's clothing and an empirical analysis of the icons. The scope of the study is limited to Russian icons from the 15th and 16th centuries and Byzantine icons from the 9th century onwards. The study found that, compared to Byzantine icons, the Russian icons exhibit a more elongated body, darker facial features, and lighter clothing. A statistical analysis using the Mann-Whitney U test further revealed that the Russian icons feature a stiffer, simpler form, more opaque material, and more defined clothing boundaries. These stylistic differences suggest that the 'Russianness' in the expression of Christ's body and clothing in the Transfiguration of Christ icons derives from creativity, abstractness, and tradition. Rather than a simple recreation of the historical Christ or adherence to the Byzantine tradition, the Russian iconographic representation emphasizes Christ's transfiguration into a luminous form, as described in the Bible, accentuating his divine nature over his human aspects.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.5
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• pp.19-40
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to grasp the world of Galliano works who lead Dior Couture and to make use of this knowledge to comprehension of general trend in Haute Couture and $pr{\hat{e}}t-{\acute{a}}$-porter in the future. The method of research is to search for the characteristic of Haute Couture and the general tendency of Galliano works, and to view the inclination of Dior Couture by Galliano. For sphere of research, 2000s is discussed with focus on Haute Couture, exclusive of ready-to-wear. As a result, Galliano's Couture works were distinguished into four specificities. First, the historicity including historical event, personage and epoch. Second, the orientalism. Third, the pictorial characteristic including synthetic art and public art. Forth, the quality of humor. These subjects bring about a result that break down each boundary, in the method of interpreting, as try out mixing between every elements. Galliano pursue a new domain through the fusion of East and West, past and present, classic and pop, artistry and commercialism, this induce more familiar Haute Couture to the public, breaking the strict form of Couture. It seems that this tendency will be advanced toward extrovert Couture producing the low-age phenomenon in Couture, the mixture of multi-culture and the vitality. This fusion suggest the popularity and the commerciality of Couture, which is predicted decrease the difference between Couture and $pr{\hat{e}}t-{\acute{a}}$-porter.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.10
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• pp.1497-1508
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• 2008

The objective of this study is to identify the types of relationship quality of department store fashion consumers. This study also aims to look at if consumers form different type of relationship quality with various relation partners. In this study, qualitative research was conducted on 25 female consumers to come to a comprehensive and in-depth understanding of fashion consumers' diverse loyal relationships. Fashion consumer's relationship quality consisted of 'self attachment', 'symbolic', 'trust', 'intimacy', 'compensational bind', and 'habitual alternative'. 6 relationship quality dimensions were distinguished according to each dimension's emotional involvement level and conscious activeness level of consumers. While self attachment was classified as emotional and active relationship quality, compensational bind and habitual alternative were typical relationship quality types of fashion store loyalty such as department store loyalty, thus classified as inertial and cognitive relationship quality type. This study might provide a useful direction to apparel brands and retailers in finding out which relationship quality type is more effective for differentiated marketing strategies.