• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.955-968
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• 2010

Three-dimensional body data has been used in many industry fields including the apparel industry. This research used data from a study of the changes in lower body girth measurements from a 3D scan study of 25 female subjects aged 18 to 24 in four postures; a standing posture, a $120^{\circ}$ knee bend posture, a one pace stepping posture, and a sitting posture with a $90^{\circ}$ knee bend. We used the information on the difference between standing and seated measurements to adjust ease values for pants patterns an evaluation of the appearance, and the comfort of the pants. Waist girth in the sitting posture increased 8% compared to a standing posture and the hip girth measurement increased 7%. A basic pants pattern (pants A) with 2.4cm ease at the waist and 2.6cm ease at the hip was developed and a pants pattern (pants B) was developed using the rates of lower body girth change with a 5.7cm ease (8% change) at the waist and 7cm ease (7% change) at the hip. The appearance assessment items of pants A in a standing posture were higher than pants B. On the other hand, most appearance assessment items of pants B in a sitting posture were higher than pants A, especially the ease of pants back waistline and the appearance of the whole back. Comfort assessment items of pants B in both standing and sitting postures were higher than the comfort assessment items for pants A, especially the location of pants waistline, the ease of pants at the waistline, and the ease at the abdomen. In order to find the best level of ease for better appearance and comfort in both standing and sitting postures, 20 pants were constructed with ease values at the waist and hip in increments of 1.1cm in the range between the ease values of pants A and pants B. A fit test was conducted to compare the average appearance and comfort ratings that identified the pants with the best ease values at the waist and hip. The highest total mean was achieved in the pants with a waist ease of 4.6cm and hip ease of 4.8cm.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.54-65
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• 1996

The purposes of this study were 1) to present the optimum slacks pattern for young men, 2) to develope a methodology to draft basic slacks pattern using AutoCAD The total crotch legth and the shape of the crutch line were determined by anthropometric data analysis. The total crotch length was calculated with the waist girth, the hip girth and the crotch length measurements. The anthropometric data utilized for this procedure was National Anthropometric Survey of Korea, 1992. And multidimensional anthropometric measurements were carried out for 6 male college students between the age of 18 to 24. The subjects were measured with the Martin's anthropometer and the sliding gauge. Mean, standard deviation and t-test were performed for statistical analysis of the data. The automatic drafting method was programmed by AutoLISP in AutoCAD. The automatic drafting was based on the Muller's slacks pattern drafting method, the measurements of slacks construction components and the curve of crotch line. The crotch line was drafted using of the arc function in AutoCAD. The total crotch length was calcuated using the multiple regression equation. The experimental pattern developed to accomodate individual body wleasurements expected to produce customized apparel production in QRS(Quick Response System) production system.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.8 s.145
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• pp.1114-1124
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• 2005

The purpose of the paper is to find the elements of jacket pattern far the obese women who went to slenderize their shape by optical illusion. Representative four subjects participated in wear tests. Subjective evaluation of the visual appearance we collected and, at the same time, 3D clothing air volume was observed for the four types of experimental jackets. As results it was found that narrower shoulder width, back upper width, and front waist width resulted in slender look, however, back abdomen width and front shoulder length induced more slender appearance in waist area. The result of the distance between clothing and skin measured by 3D scanner clearly demonstrated the distribution of ease due to the elements of pattern, which is useful to find the pattern variables responsible for the slender appearance of the obese women.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.390-400
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• 2019

A major factor in making current hospital gowns is how to manage patients from the standpoint of hospitals. This shows that hospital gowns have not been considered as an apparel for a specific purpose with a design that considers the psychological composure of patients. This study, along with a meticulous analysis of the pattern design of domestic hospital gown suggests a design philosophy that can be of emotional help to patients. The analysis of hospital gowns in terms of motif is that the corporate identity of the hospital in question, along with the lettering symbolizing the hospital is conspicuous. The motif shown in the pattern also has a brightness contrast and two-way pattern. This study suggests hospital gown patterns as follows. First, on the basis of color dynamics, utilize repetition arrangement, camaieu arrangement and faux camaieu arrangement. Second, make use of warm colors in order to enhance trust between patients and medical staff. Last, use green color as a dominant color for the hospital to be felt of as a convenient space. Utilizing these three factors in the future design of hospital gowns will assist in the development of new hospital gowns that render a psychological composure.

• 제어로봇시스템학회:학술대회논문집
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• 1997.10a
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• pp.1306-1309
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• 1997

Fabric hand feeling is an important property used in apparel industry. This paper shows a sensing method to output a fiber whisker's stick slip vibration by scanning it on the fabric. Then the vibration waveforms are transformed to the Symmetrized Dot Pattern images. Experimental results show that SDP images of fiber whisker's stik slip is potentially useful to the detection of fabric hand feeling values.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.101-113
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• 2016

This study was conducted in order to analyze draping and flat pattern according to jacket design, and provide basic materials for developing a jacket pattern that can enhance fitness, functionality, and aesthetic expression of clothes by reflecting esthetic expression of draping and efficiency of flat pattern at the same time. For the experimental jacket designs of a one-piece sleeve jacket and a two-piece sleeve jacket were selected among the entries of the designer Rubina for 2014 F/W Seoul Fashion Week. Designer brand Rubina usually produced clothes using draping and the designer brand company provided the experimental patterns for the study. We also had flat patterns of the same design and size specifications designed by a flat patternmaker who has 30 year-experience in flat pattern like Rubina. The test apparel jacket was made of 20's cotton yarns. Three models wore the jackets and evaluation on appearance fitness was conducted by 7 members in an expert panel group from August 10, 2015 to September 10, 2015. As a result of appearance fitness analysis on one-piece sleeve jacket, there were significant difference in 4 items among 17 items in terms of overall appearance. The appearance of jackets by draping had higher score than those using flat pattern. As for two-piece sleeve jacket, there were significant differences in 7 items among 17 items related to overall appearance. As for the items related to sleeve, 5 items out of 13 showed significant differences. Except for one item, appearance of jackets using draping had higher score than flat pattern. As for motion fitness, draping was evaluated to be more comfortable. Applying the items with high scores in appearance and motion fitness in draping to flat pattern, The study suggests a new jacket pattern development that would increase the satisfaction of consumers for future research.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.950-962
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to develop the slim-fit dress shirt pattern. Among the published educational patterns, there were four patterns based on similar design and silhouette with slim-fit dress shirts. Then, the drafting method of those patternsBB were compared and analyzed. The subjects for wearing evaluation were three 20 to 39 aged average-sized men. After the wearing evaluation(5 Likert point scale), N pattern had been chosen as the final comparison pattern because it received the highest points. The slim-fit shirt pattern was developed based on the result of wearing evaluation. The foundation design were as following: shirt length (Stature/2-12), back length (Stature/4), armhole depth (Chest/4+1), width (Chest/4+3), Interscye; Back (Chest/6+5), Interscye; Front (Chest/6+4), width of the nape of neck (Neck/6+1=◎), height of the nape of neck (◎/3), of the front neck (◎-0.5), depth of the front neck(◎+1.5). After the wearing evaluation about researched pattern and N pattern, researched patternsBB scale points were bigger than N pattern and there were slight differences. The scale points for N patternsBB movement evaluation showed highest points on all contents. Therefore, the researched pattern is suitable for the original form of slim-fit dress shirt. The new dress shirt pattern reflected the slim-fit trend in the research expected to help educational environment and industrial site.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.634-644
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• 2021

This study aims to propose various ways to utilize CLO, which focuses mainly on the production of 3D virtual samples, by comparing it with the pattern drafting functions of Four apparel CAD experts, who have teaching experience in YUKA and CLO, participated in a focus group interview, and a basic bodice prototype drafting was carried out by each participant to evaluate the pattern drafting functions of YUKA and CLO. The result of this study showed that the pattern drafting tools of YUKA are subdivided since YUKA is a CAD tool inherently specialized in pattern making. Though CLO provided a relatively limited pattern drafting menu compared to YUKA, it was found that pattern drafting could be accomplished with the help of supplementary tools and functions. This finding suggests that each CAD offers the corresponding tools for the same use of menus or functions in the prototype drafting process. The major difference between YUKA and CLO is that YUKA defines the pattern area by a set of line segments, whereas CLO utilizes an outline composed of closed curves. YUKA provides various specific tools according to the options such as angles, straight lines, and curves, while CLO produces the same results using combinations of a limited number of tools. Compared with YUKA, the advantage of CLO is its user-friendly task environment such as the Windows-based user interface, from the usability perspective. This study concludes that pattern drafting education using CLO would help not only industrial 3D design practitioners but also pattern education in academia

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.12 s.159
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• pp.1690-1696
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to provide the basic data useful in designing apparel patterns for aged abdominal obese women. The body measurements of 318 women were taken at random, whose ages were over 60 and fields of action were colleges, sports centers, or business sites in Seoul and the neighboring districts. A total of 33 features in the upper body and lower body were used fer the anthropometric measurement and analysis using anthropometry. The collected measurement data were processed statistically using the SPSS 12.0 program for technical statistical analysis, t-test, frequency analysis, correlation analysis. The results of the study are as follows. 1. Subjects were classified into two groups as a result of analysis for measurement data. It was revealed that 251(about 79 percent) women of total subjects(n=318) have a characteristic of abdominal obese body type and elderly women of these group usually had big abdomen rather than hip. The criteria of abdominal obesity based on waist-hip ratio, WHR(=0.85). 2. Aged abdominal obese women have shown much larger size in most body measurements except items of some vertical length, such as bust ponit-bust point, font interscye, back interscye with circumference and depth of armscye, bust, waist, abdomen and hip while showing no difference in height, biacrominal breadth, hip width, neck shoulder point to breast point, crotch length. 3. Vervaeck index(=100.1) and Rohrer index(=1.7) indicated that the abdominal obese women were fat in overall body. And aspect ratio of waist(=0.86), abdomen(=0.92) and hip(=0.75) also appeared high that the shape of cross sections in those regions was similar to a figure of circle 4. In view of the correlation coefficient between hip circumference and the rest measurement items, and between hip circumference inclusively of the abdomen protrusion and the rest measurement items, there were found some differences for each group. In case of Group (abdominal obese group), the former is smaller than the other. 5. In case of Abdominal obese women, hip circumference inclusively of the abdomen protrusion is more mutually related to the rest items related to make apparel pattern as waist circumference, depth of armscye and so on than what hip circumference is. This result indicated which must be considered hip circumference inclusively of the abdomen protrusion to make apparel patterns for abdominal obese women unlike women of common body types.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.143-151
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• 2009

Ukiyo-e is the representative genre-painting of Japan, dominant during the 17th century Edo-Period (1503-1867). Ukiyo-e is mainly focused on expressing the lives of geishas, sumo wrestlers, and kabuki characters, who were the center of the Japanese amusement culture, and gained popular acceptance in Europe when it was first introduced in the late 19th century in the form of Japonism, having significant influence and impact on the impressionist artists of the time and on the design of western cloths. In this papers, we will be primarily conducting a historical study on the development of the Ukiyo-e, a representative genre-painting of Japan, and conduct a in-depth analysis of pattern expressed in the Kosode of women, represented through various different works of art. In order to conduct a thorough analysis of pattern expressed in Ukiyo-e, we collected over 255 pieces of materials from existing foreign paintings as well as museums in the National Museum of Tokyo, Edo Museum, and the Harajuku Museum of Ukiyo-e. This papers seeks to analyze and classify patterns expressed in the works of Ukiyo-e and research the characteristics express in the pattern to contribute to the development of fabrics in the modern fashion design industry.