• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.3
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• pp.239-247
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• 2018

Chronic inflammation is known to have effects on various diseases such as gout, cancer, dementia, atopic disease, and obesity. In addition, since some signal cascades involved in the development of inflammation are known to affect the damage and aging of the skin tissue, studies are being conducted actively to control the inflammation mechanism. In order to mitigate or prevent inflammatory response, a number of researches have been made to develop anti-inflammatory materials from some plants. In particular, Stevia rebaudiana produces steviol glycosides (SG), a natural sweetener with a distinctive flavor. Studies on some of SG have been shown to have anti-inflammatory activity. Researchers of this study expected that more SG also possess anti-inflammatory activity, besides stevioside, rebaudioside A, and steviol. In order to confirm this possibility, the researchers screened inhibition activity of various steviol glucosides for NO production in RAW 264.7 cell lines. As a result, steviol ${\beta}-glucopyranosyl$ ester (SGE) showed the highest inhibitory activity among steviol derivatives treated at the same molar concentration. In addition, we found that mRNA expression level of $interleukin-1{\alpha}$ ($IL-1{\alpha}$), $interleukin-1{\beta}$ ($IL-1{\beta}$), cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2), nuclear factor kappa-light chain-enhancer of activated B cells ($NF-{\kappa}B$) and inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS) was also decreased in a dose-dependent manner. These results show that SGE inhibits anti-inflammatory activity and NO production in mouse macrophage RAW 264.7 cells. It was confirmed that SGE has potential to be applied as an anti-inflammatory material.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.423-432
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• 2018

Arthrospira platensis is one of the oldest algae in the world and has been reported to have anti-aging properties, including phycocyanin, tocopherol and beta-carotene. In this study, we tried to search protective activities against UVB-induced reactive oxygen species(ROS) of Arthrospira platensis under indoor cultivation ethanol extracts(ICAE) and outdoor cultivation ethanol extracts(OCAE). The anti-oxidative capacities were evaluated by DPPH radical scavenging activity and SOD-like activities at various concentrations(0.1, 0.5, $1mg/m{\ell}$) of ICAE and OCAE. Zebrafish embryos and HaCaT cells were exposed to UVB radiation and treated with various concentrations(0, 0.01, 0.05, 0.1, 0.5, $1mg/m{\ell}$) of ICAE and OCAE. ROS levels of zebrafish and HaCaT cells were generated by UVB radiation. ROS levels were detected using a fluorescent microscope after DCFH-DA staining. The DPPH radical scavenging activity of ascorbic acid was 73% and SOD-like activity was 86% in the positive control group. ICAE and OCAE at $1mg/m{\ell}$ concentration showed 43, 57% DPPH radical scavenging activity and 20, 19% SOD-like activity. Anti-oxidative of ICAE and OCAE had lower effects than the positive control ascorbic acid but significant results. ROS of UVB-induced zebrafish embryos and HaCaT cells were higher than negative control. ICAE and OCAE treated group decreased ROS concentration dependently than UVB-induced positive control group. These results suggest that Arthrospira platensis ethanol extract may have usability value as a cosmetic material for skin protection.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.199-210
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• 2011

This study was conducted to develop functional sources of herbal cosmetics for treatment of skin aging and inflammatory disorders using volatile flavor extracts of four different herbal medicinal prescriptions including Cnidium officinale Makino (COM), Angelica gigas Nakai (AGN), Mentha arvense L. (MAL), Artemisiae argyi Folium (AAF), Paeonia lactiflora Pall (PLP), Rehmanniae Radix Preparata (RRP), Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi (SBG), Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer (PGM), Glycyrrhiza uralensis Fisch (GUF). The volatile flavor extracts of four different herbal medicinal prescriptions (HH-1: COM, AGN, PLP, RRP, HH-2: COM, AGN, PLP, RRP, SBG, PGM, GUF, HH-3: COM, AGN, MAL, AAF, HH-4: COM, AGN, MAL, AAF, SBG, PGM, GUF) were extracted using SDE and their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects were measured by using DPPH radical and SLO, respectively. As a result, HH-2 showed moderate DPPH radical scavenging activity (68.24 %) and the strongest SLO inhibitory activity (83.96 %) at 100 ${\mu}g$/mL. Moreover, HH-2 of four different prescriptions significantly inhibited NO production on LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells in a dose-dependent manner without considerable cell cytotoxicity at range of 2.0 ~ 50 ${\mu}g$/mL. Additionally, HH-2 also effectively suppressed the production of $PGE_2$ and IL-6, which are responsible for promoting the inflammatory process. Major volatile components of HH-2 were identified as eugenol, paeonol, butyl phthalide, ${\beta}$-eudesmol and butylidene dihydrophthalide by GC-MS analysis. Thus, these results suggest that HH-2 may be useful as a potential source of anti-inflammatory agents in herbal medicinal cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.80-98
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• 2002

Taxus cuspidata Sieb selected cultivation as drug, food and decorative plant in Kyong-gi province in Korea. As a manufacturing method, there were extracted from 250g of dried-leaf and 300g of dried-stem with each 200g of BG, PG and water (to 100) mixing for 72 hour at 50$\pm$5$\^{C}$ and then they were filtered by 400-mesh filter. Appearance of extract of leaves was slight brown, pH=5.3$\pm$0.5, gravity was 1.012$\pm$0.05, and a reflective index was 1.375$\pm$0.05. And appearance of extract of stems was slightly dark brown, pH=5.4$\pm$0.5, gravity was 1.016$\pm$0.05, and a reflective index was 1.358$\pm$0.05. It was extracted oil from Taxus seed. Gravity was 0.922$\pm$0.05 and it should be obtained the 27.0$\pm$0.5% of yield. The molecular weight of polysaccharide was about 50,000 to 300,000 dalton and contained 5.0$\pm$1.2% of yield from Taxus fruit. The determinations of total polyphenols in measuring spectropotometer got 0.563% in leaves, and 0.325% in stems, whereas the quantitives of total tannins got 0.054% and 0.037%, respectively. As the effects in Cosmetics by DPPH-method, the antioxidative activities were very strong that the inhibitory ratio showed 75% in leaves and 64% in stems compared with 52% in greentea extract. These are more effective than other plant extracts. The increasing ratio of collagen synthesis rate on the activating fibroblast for extracts of Taxus cuspidata Sieb showed 54.16% (stems) and 33.18% (leaves), To improve the skin elasticity, PPE(porcine pancreatic elastase)-inhibitory activities were strongly effective as 13,7% (stems), 23.5% (leaves) and 66%(seed). Anti-inflammatory acitvity of seed oil was very the above 41% stronger than SG was 24% of anti-Inflammatory as a control sample.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.301-307
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• 2009

In the previous study, we evaluated and reported about the anti-oxidative activities of extract/fraction of Castanea crenata leaf. Extract/fraction of Castanea crenata leaf showed excellent free radical scavenging activity, cell protective activity and inhibitory activity on tyrosinase and elastase. In this study, in order to investigate the stability of cream containing 0.2 % Castanea crenata ethyl acetate fraction. pH, viscosity, and absorbance were measured under 4 different temperature ($4^{\circ}C$, $20^{\circ}C$, $37^{\circ}C$, $45^{\circ}C)$ and under the sun light at 2 weeks intervals for the 8 weeks. The variations on pH and viscosity of all experimental creams were similar to control cream. The absorbance variation of extract from experimental cream at 353 nm was in the order: under the sun > $45^{\circ}C$ > $37^{\circ}C$ > $20^{\circ}C$ > $4^{\circ}C$. It shows that ethyl acetate fraction in the cream can be oxidized under the sun. The bad smell and discoloration were not shown. Also, physical changes as creaming and cohesion were not shown. Also, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and water contents in skin were measured. The cream containing Castanea cranata leaf extract was applied to the right lower arm. After 120 min, TEWL of parts was decreased as 29.7 % (experimental cream) and 5.4 % (control cream) respectively. And the water contents in skin were increased 22.6 % (experimental cream) and 24.7 % (control cream) respectively. It was confirmed that a cream containing ethyl acetate fraction of Castanea crenata leaf shows the superior moisturizing effect. The results showed that Castanea crenata leaf extract could be used as a new active ingredient for anti-aging cosmeceuticals.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.1
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• pp.61-66
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• 2011

Antioxidant activity of Geranium nepalense subsp. thunbergii extract was evaluated by DPPH free radical scavenging assay. Geranium nepalense subsp. Thunbergii extract contains tannin, (-)epicatechin, kaempferitin, kaepferol -7-rhamnoside, brevifolin, corilagin, pyrogallol, ellagitannin, geraniin, gallic acid, succinic acid, quercetin, protocatechuic acid, etc. Geranium nepalense subsp. Thunbergii showed excellent antioxidant activity compared to positive control, quercetin. Geranium nepalense subsp. thunbergii extract showed a 98.33 % inhibition of DPPH radical at a concentration of $50\;{\mu}g/mL$. Quercetin showed a 78.05 % inhibition of DPPH radical at the same concentration. To investigate reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activity, Geranium nepalense subsp. thunbergii extract was treated to human keratinocytes (HaCaT). $IC_{50}$ value of Geranium nepalense subsp. thunbergii extract was $43.22\;{\mu}g/mL$ and $IC_{50}$ value of quercetin was $102.35\;{\mu}g/mL$. Geranium nepalense subsp. thunbergii extract showed excellent antioxidant activity. Skin irritation test and cytotoxicity test suggested that Geranium nepalense subsp. thunbergii extract is a safe antioxidant ingredient for cosmetics.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.20 no.11
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• pp.1675-1682
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• 2010

The biological activity of hot water extract from Ecklonia cava Kjellman (ECE) was investigated to assess antioxidative, anti-skin aging, and nitrite scavenging abilities, as well as alcohol metabolizing activities. Antioxidant activity of ECE was measured by using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picryl-hydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity and superoxide dismutase (SOD)-like activity. DPPH radical scavenging activity and SOD-like activity of ECE increased in a remarkably dose-dependent manner, and were about 91.4% and 75% at 1 mg/ml, respectively. The xanthine oxidase inhibitory activity was indicated to be about 70% at 1 mg/ml of ECE. Nitrite scavenging ability of ECE showed to be 93.6% at 1 mg/ml and pH 1.2. The influence of ECE on alcohol metabolism was demonstrated through the generating activity of reduced-nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NADH) by alcohol dehydrogenase (ADH) and acetaldehyde dehydrogenase (ALDH). The facilitating rate of ADH and ALDH activity by ECE was 167.2% and 334% at 10 mg/ml, respectively. In addition, tyrosinase and elastase inhibitory activities of ECE were 58% and 72% at 10 mg/ml, respectively. These results indicated that ECE has valuable biological attributes owing to its antioxidant, nitrite scavenging, alcohol metabolizing, and elastase and tyrosinase inhibitory activities.

• Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology
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• v.35 no.5
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• pp.975-979
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• 2003

Perilla leaves cultivated in greenhouses (Jan., May) and in the fields (Aug.) of Geumsan province were investigated for their extract yields and physiological functionalities. The yield was highest in 30% ethanol extracts of the August perilla leaves. The highest fibrinolytic activity (8.2 U) was observed in 30% ethanol extracts of the May perilla leaves, while the HMG-CoA reductase inhibition level, which is related to the inhibition of cholesterol biosynthesis, was 83% in water extracts of the August perilla leaves. Anti-hypertensive ACE inhibitory activity was 64.5% in the water extracts of the January perilla leaves, and antioxidative electron donating ability was the highest (69%) in 30% ethanol extracts of the August perilla leaves. Elastase inhibitory activity, which is related to the inhibition of skin aging, was highest (47.5%) in 30% ethanol extracts of the May perilla leaves. However, SOD-like activity, nitrite scavenging activity, and tyrosinase inhibitory activity were not detected were very weak in all samples.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.39 no.2
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• pp.149-158
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• 2013

L-ascorbic acid, the representative antioxidants, has a great effect on skin whitening, collagen synthesis, and anti-aging, but has low oxidative stability during storage. Therefore, in this study, thermal and oxidation properties of L-ascorbic acid under various storage conditions (powder, aqueous phase, changes of temperature, UV-irradiation, and inflow of external air etc.) were investigated. And the storage stability of ingredient was validated in the double-spaced pouch by analysing oxidation properties under each storage conditions (powder phase and blended with essence). In oder to analyze the thermal properties, TGA, DSC, and FT-IR analysis were carried out and UV-visible spectrophotometer & redox titration were used in parallel for oxidation property analyses. From the result of experiment, L-ascorbic acid was oxidized fast when it contained lots of metallic ion, hydroxy ion in aqueous solution under high temperature, UV-irradiation & inflow external air, whereas it was not oxidized for a long time when it was stored as pure powder although it has same condition as heating up, UV-irradiation & inflow external air. Based on this result, retention period of cosmetics which is using L-ascorbic acid, less stable material in oxidation can be innovatively increased when using double-spaced pouch that is designed and produced for separating storage of active ingredients.

• Journal of Chitin and Chitosan
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.262-266
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• 2018

Even though the saps have been consumed as beverage in Korea, however a little research has been conducted on the chemical composition. We determined free sugars, mineral in the sap from Juglans mandshurica Maxim. collected from BongHwa region. The contents of glucose, sucrose, and fructose in the sap from J. mandshurica were 0.15, 2.73, and 0.09%, respectively. The prominent minerals in the sap from J. mandshurica were calcium and potassium. The contents of Ca, K, Mg, Fe, and Mn of sap from J. mandshurica were 0.61, 0.57, 0.12, 0.002, and 0.014 ppm, respectively. The sap from J. mandshurica show inhibitory effect on elastase. And real-time RT-PCR showed that sap from J. mandshurica increased mRNA level of AQP3 and HAS2 gene and increased hyaluronic acid production in HaCaT cells. These results indicated that the sap from J. mandshurica can potentially be used for developing cosmetic ingredient for skin moisturizing and anti-aging.