• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.547-563
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• 2024

This study aims to examine the expressive characteristics of the New Chinese style in the collection of Chinese fashion designer Ziggy Chen, analyze the inner meaning, and suggest a new direction in Chinese fashion design. As a research method, the background and concept of New-Chinese style occurrence were examined through previous studies, and the characteristics of the New Chinese style expression in fashion were investigated. The characteristics of the New Chinese style were summarized as cultural tradition, historical ethnicity, and pluralistic convergence. Based on these contents, the characteristics of the New Chinese style expression in Ziggy Chen's men's fashion design were analyzed. The data collection range was selected as the range of 20 seasons collected from 2012 S/S to 2022 A/W, which was collected on fashion sites and the brand's official Instagram. The analysis results are as follows. First, subcultural resistance is a retro and ragged decadence formed by combining punk elements and industrial styles based on the clothing styles of lower-class Chinese people in the 17th and 90s. Second, cultural traditionality was influenced by traditional culture by mainland Chinese designers, who expressed the conservative presence of tradition and the Chinese style by looking at it from an oriental perspective. Third, historical ethnicity forms a Chinese fashion culture in which the national spirit and the development of the times coexist, while traditional culture and contemporary social values develop in harmony. Fourth, traditional fashion develops by combining a contemporary aesthetic sense and lifestyle with pluralistic convergence.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.7
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• pp.131-142
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• 2010

The ethnic image in modern fashion can be interpreted as a trend of post-modernism, which appeared after modernism's established style. It has relativity, pluralism and variety, and it tries to revive style of the past. This makes style that borrows and combines image and style of different era and culture as distinctive feature, and in turn is expressed by a new image that is combined with the country's clothes. Also, thanks to the customers who are tired of artificiality and convenience, gift of modern science and technology, simple and natural sensitive marketing and being 'raw' are getting popular as new trend. Today's ethnic image is not merely borrowing visual, superficial image of culture and clothes of other ethnic group, but pursuing natural as purely created by human senses rather than being polished. In terms of ethnic image's formative beauty and aesthetic value, foreign and domestic collections are compared. But for domestic image, only Korean ones are researched, and for foreign designer's fashion image, there are ethnic styles of Japan, China and Korea. Although the documents of domestic designers that I investigated is not sufficient, canonic simple being of oriental image that is seen by the westerners is summarized.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.1156-1168
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• 2008

This study investigated the preceding studies and concept of Glam Rock style, modernistically reinterpreted its aesthetic function and symbolism and connected them to design. It analyzed according to the standards for classification the Glam Rock style appearing mainly in the collections from 2002 S/S to 2007 S/S and presented four pieces of design through the analysis. Its findings are synthesized as follows. First, unstructured design constitutes mule stressing gold cubic overall. It takes an unstable form by the placement of unshapely front ball of foot from transforming Chopin and a relatively poor heel. Second, over trimming constitutes separated pumps in the form of over trimming irregularly a piece of broken glass, metal and thumb tack. Third, Mix & Match combines Boot body of flexible knit material with an acrylic wedge sandal. Fourth, a platform sandal has the structure of color contrast between yellow and bronze in calf fur of tiger-skin pattern. I hope that this study will be developed by reflecting Glam Rock spirit and style as cultural phenomena through analyzing Glam Rock style and presenting design according to selected standards for classification, inferring plastic beauty of fashion shoes from them, investigating the change and feature of age-specific shoe design and making a new attempt possible.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.66-78
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to illuminate the location of fashion in contemporary society and to suggest a direction for fashion criticism in aesthetic$\hat{u}$cultural perspective. For this, literature researches about some of art criticism and fashion criticism theories and cultural studies related to fashion are performed. In this study, fashion criticism is defined as a linguistic analysis and interpretation about a variety of discursive networks around fashion as well as an aesthetic analysis of it. Considering this definition, an analytical framework for the contemporary fashion criticism combines Feldman's and Carney's models with Crane & Bovone's and Entwistle's sociological studies for aesthetic and cultural perspectives. At first, its aesthetic perspective shows 'Description'-'Descriptive formative features', 'Analysis'-'Locate the style' and 'Aesthetic value', 'Interpretation'- 'Interpretation of the fashion object' and 'Socio-cultural interpretation', 'Judgment'-'Critical judgment'. Then, its cultural perspective especially emphasizes 'Socio-cultural interpretation' of the 6 steps above. Socio-cultural interpretation gets tangled with the network of various cultural agents within the fashion system, producers/designers, retailers/suppliers, media/editors, consumers/spectators, and so on. In the course of the fashion system 5 analytical methods about the fashion object can be suggested and they are as follows: Analyses of texts, discourses and symbols of a fashion object, Analyses of fashion systems which produces symbolic values, Analyses of the communication of symbolic values and the disseminating processes through the media, Analyses of the attribution of symbolic values to a fashion object by consumers, and Cross-national studies of symbolic values expressed in a fashion object.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.19
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• pp.29-40
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• 1992

The aesthetic of traditional Korean costume has been used as one of the design themes in the field of Korean contemporary fashion design for western style clothing. Using the Korean aesthetic comes from the idea that such ethnic beauty could gain an international reputation. The beauty of the Korean costume is rooted in the particular aesthetic consciousness of the Korean people : the aesthetics of nature, personality, the evil's eye. and tradition. From an artistic viewpoint, the formative elements are analyzed into the following categories: form including line and shape, color, pattern, materials and ornaments. The aesthetic elements of the costume are transformed into present fashion design through the formative elements of the fashion ; form including line, color, pattern, materials and ornamentation. To express Korean atmosphere, adapting traditional elements such as, needle cases, hinges of furnitures, closing function of big gate are active, As a conclusion, the actual fashion design of adapting Korean beauty are so confined to the original form of Korean Dress that the results of design are tend towards ethnocentric atmosphere. Therefore, to understand and express traditional Korean beauty in contemporary fashion design, one has to keep in mind the aesthetic of the traditional Korean costume. Then one must develop and pursue one's own methods of adapting Korean beauty. The sophistication and refinement of fashion design could be accomplished only through the deep appreciation of the Korean culture. The second, the sense of International perspective is needed to be understanded and obtaining public sympathy from an international society. The third, Critics and scholars are the most concerned with promoting Korean fashion at an international level. Korean fashion at an international level. Korean fashion design will only mature with the support of scholars and the theoretical understanding they bring with them. The last, public support including government level is needed to enhence the standand of Korea fashion today.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.8
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• pp.28-44
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• 2012

The aim of this research is to examine the tendency of national tastes reflected in global SPA brands based on the theories of Gans' taste culture and Bourdieu's cultural capital. In this study, the leading global SPA brands such as H&M, ZARA, GAP and UNIQLO can be considered as a representative taste culture as well as an icon of popular culture in the $21^{st}$ century global fashion and also the aesthetic taste of each brand differentiated from their national aesthetic values based on socio-cultural backgrounds. H&M represents fashionableness, practicality and environmental friendliness based on naturalism, democratic humanism, and functional practicality of Sweden. ZARA emerges as the most trend oriented brand as well as customer centered on the basis of cultural diversity, passion and glamorous artistic sensibility of Spain. GAP shows American iconic style, which is the functional sports casual wear, originated from American leisure culture and mass production. Lastly, UNIQLO represents high-tech functionalism and practical simplicity based on Japanese delicate workmanship and simple, concise lifestyle while relatively does not much follow the fashion forward trends. Consequently, the national taste has been proved as a solid foundation to identify each global brand. This should be the key component also applied to Korean global brands for developing their concepts and strategies more successfully based on our own national aesthetic taste.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.577-589
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• 2013

Fashion is traditionally perceived as a non-art in art philosophy; however, it is now being evaluated as art through the process of recognizing its cultural value and position. This study investigated the expanded concept of contemporary fashion in the same context of the expanded concept of contemporary art to present the possibility of fashion as art. This study enhances the artistic and cultural value, as well as the social function and position, of fashion by granting it the same status as art according to the concept of expanded contemporary art. For the research method, a literature review and a case analysis were conducted through specialty publications related to art history, aesthetics, and fashion in addition to regular publications, websites specializing in fashion, art museums and fashion style websites. The expanded aesthetic concept of contemporary art has embraced challenges to ideal beauty, production methods through interactivity, and expansion of art expression through mass media and industrial products. In the same context, the expanded aesthetic concept of contemporary fashion has established challenges to conventional beauty, the expansion of production methods, and the expansion and transfiguration of materials.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.134-139
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• 2017

This study proposes 3D printed shoe designs with patterns made by reinterpreting traditional Korean muntin patterns as customized designs that are unique to individual consumers and different from existing products. In the fashion industry, shoes with diverse designs grafted with 3D printing technology have been introduced. Artistic 3D printed shoes showcase the unique designs of designers. Functional and practical 3D printed shoes that can be worn during daily activities and during exercise have been actively developed. Traditional Korean pattern designs are also being recreated into designs reflecting the aesthetic sense of modern times with our own identity. The uniqueness of the traditional muntin patterns in geometric shapes, such as intersections of lines, rectangles, and octagons, are expressed in shoe designs with modern aesthetic senses by utilizing the traditional patterns that conform well to the modern geometric beauty of forms. This study was intended to develop 3D shoe designs that reinterpreted the motif of muntin patterns from among traditional Korean geometric patterns with a modern aesthetic sense. The octagonal patterns that express the scenery of spring can be seen through the muntins in traditional Korean-style houses were designed on the heels of shoes. Utilizing the Rhino CAD program and ProJet 660 Pro 3D printer, shoes were designed and printed. The processes for making shoes using 3D printing technology proposed in this study are significant because they represent the creation of designs in a new area. The results of this study might help in the development of 3D printed fashion products.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.363-372
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• 2007

T-shirt has changed into advanced and stylish outwear by new paradigm, taste of consumer, awareness of recycling, spread of subculture, DIY culture, refusal of standardization and pursuit of high quality goods, etc. The purpose of this study was to analyze aesthetic characteristics of t-shirt designs that changed into diverse designs in world fashion college since 2000. The method of this study was to analyze documentaries, fashion magazines and internet fashion site. Aesthetic characteristics of t-shirt designs were expressed in deconstruction, mixture, integration and imitation. And each of external expressions and internal meanings was as follows: First, deconstruction was expressed in partial cutwork and three dimensional texture by sewing and construction drape. It means breaking the conventional structure and break-ing the boundary of t-shirt and another item and possibility of multi-vocal analysis. Second, mixture was expressed in collage of diverse ornaments, diverse fabrics and diverse patterns. It means exceeding the limit of material, elaboratenes and high quality of handwork, reflection of self-identity, brand image, fashion trend, consumer's psychology and mind of experimentation and couture. Third, integration was expressed in extension of length, width, use and style. It means unification of functions, deconstruction of items and extension of meanings and images. Forth, imitation was expressed in stain of dye, irregular and ripped sign, cut out, rough warp, drawing and washing, etc. It means subculture, rarity value, monopolization, diversity, familiarity, yearning and uniqueness.

• Journal of Korean Academy of Nursing Administration
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.439-448
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• 2005

Purpose: Purpose of the this study is to define the hemodialysis treatment-related stressors and stress coping methods in hemodialysis noncompliant patients. Method: Hemodialysis treatment-related stressors scale and stress coping style scale were used with 178 patients that received continuous hemodialysis treatment, met the noncompliance criteria. Collected data were analyzed by using the SPSS 12.0 program. Result: In hemodialysis noncompliant patients, Psychosocial stress were higher than physical stress, 'aesthetic thinking' was the most used. As recognition of health status was lower, hemodialysis treatment-related stressors were higher. In terms of causative disease, 'hypertension' pt used more 'problem-focus coping' and 'social support pursuit' than the other groups. As subjective recognition level of health status was higher, 'problem-focus coping' and 'social support pursuit' were more used. It was showed positive correlation between psychosocial stressors and 'aesthetic thinking'. Conclusion: Hemodialysis noncompliant patients had high psychosocial stress, accordingly, used 'aesthetic coping'. It means that they has negative coping to disease and hemodialysis treatment. Therefore, Nurses need to manage psychosocial aspects, which influence on noncompliant behaviors.