• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.35-46
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• 1989

Experiments described in which cotton fabrics at different stages of chemical processing were abraded to different extents on a Stoll Abrasion Tester with three different abradants, namely, a worsted fabric, flax fabric and silicon carbide paper. The four different plain-weave cotton fabrics selected were 1) desized, 2) scoured and bleached, 3) mercerized, 4) resin-treated. The surface abrasive damages of treated fabrics were observed by SAM, and load-elongation percent retentions of abraded samples were measured by Instrong Tester. The result were as follows: 1. The maximum percent retention of load-elongation with three different abradants was exhibited by the scoured and bleached fabrics and the minimum by the resin finished fabric. 2. The electron micrographs of four different cotton fabrics abraded by flax, worsted fabric abradants for 900 rubs showed a large number of criss-crossing stray fibers in fabric structure. It may be the molecular adhesion for frictional resistance to be explained. 3. The electron micrographs of four different cotton fabrics abraded by silicone carbide abradants showed the form of busing or mashing fibers in fabric structure. The above might be on the basis of the ploughing theory.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.36-51
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• 2012

Quilting, a technique to join two or more layers of fabrics, has long been used in the textile and fashion sectors. To evaluate dimensional effect of quilting that changes according to the characteristics of fabrics, 3D scanning method is employed in this study. Goal of this study is to interpret how fabric's composition, stiffness, thickness, and weight affect the appearance when quilted fabrics are used in a garment. Surface reconstruction method based on 3D scanning is used as a research method to evaluate the changing appearance depending on the material properties quantitatively with the quilting method. Besides, exemplary virtual clothing is realized through a virtual quilting method in 3D digital clothing system based on the properties of fabrics.

• Composites Research
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.233-240
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• 2021

VaRI(Vacuum assisted Resin Infusion) process, which is cost effective and suitable for manufacturing large-sized composites, is an OoA(Out-of Autoclave) process. For rapid resin infusion in the VaRI process, a DM(distribution media) is placed on top of the fabric. The resin is rapidly supplied in plane direction of the fiber along the DM, and then the supplied resin is impregnated in the out-of-plane direction of fiber. It is difficult to predict the flow of resin because the flow of in-plane direction and the out-of-plane direction occur together, and a 3D numerical analysis program is used to simulate the resin infusion process. However, in order to analyze in 3D, many elements are required in the out-of-plane direction of fabric. And the product size is larger, the longer the analysis time needs. Therefore, in this study, a method was suggested to reduce the time required for flow analysis by simplifying the 3D flow analysis to 2D flow analysis. The usefulness was verified by comparing the 3D flow analysis with the simplified 2D flow analysis at the same conditions. The filling time error was about 7% and the reduction of flow analysis time was about 95%. In addition, by utilizing the constant difference in the flow front between the top, middle, and bottom of the fabric of the 3D analysis, the flow front of the top, middle, and bottom of the fabric can be also predicted in the 2D flow analysis.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.642-649
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• 2010

This study was designed to generate briefs pattern for women in their twenties using 3D parametric body model. 151 women in their 20's were random sampled and measured using Martine's anthropometry. And one subject was chosen as the representative subject for 3D scanning. Parametric model was generated of using CATIA P3, Unigraphics NX4.0, Rapidform 2006. And the 3D surface of parametric body model was flattened onto the 2D plane. 3 downscale ratios(0%, 10%, 15%) were applied to generated pattern to figure out what downscale ratio was suitable to make briefs with stretch fabric. 4 kinds of experimental briefs were made with stretch fabrics(0%, 10%, 15% downscale) and worn on the dressform. Subjective evaluation on the appearance was done and the data was analyzed by ANOVA with post-hoc test. Briefs pattern was generated through the process of flattening the parametric surface and arranging the patches to make briefs pattern by dart manipulation. The different ration of outline and area between 3D surface and 2D pattern were 0.22% and 0.09% respectively. It showed that a parametric model could provide a desirable pattern with minute size error. The results of subjective evaluation on the appearance of 4 experimental briefs showed that stretch briefs with 15% downscale ratio was evaluated most highly in most items. Findings imply that it is feasible to apply 3D parametric model to generate patterns for various items considering various fabric properties.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.161-171
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• 2022

Traditional tie-dyeing is widely implemented in the clothing handicraft culture in China, South Korea, and Japan. Since it was developed 2,000 years ago, it has become a popular method of fabric making in the world and is highly respected by fashion designers. Based on the existing traditional tie-dyeing methods, this study conducted specific research on the 3D printing technology of the SLS laser method and the micro tool design application method of the clamp-dyeing process. Through the experimental methods of this study, it proposes to use the "7000 Nylon" material, which is commonly used in 3D printing, to develop a new clamp-dyeing tool. This new tool can be widely used in the clamp-dyeing of fabrics, such as cotton, hemp, silk, and some chemical fibers. The applied method and principle can be consistent with the traditional clamp-dyeing method. Therefore, the innovation of tie-dyeing technology is the best protection measure for the development and inheritance of traditional fabric making. The continuation of artistic life needs originality, which is also the best response to market competition. At the same time, this new design of the clamp-dyeing tool has the characteristics of novelty, innovation, and rich changes, which aligns with the new fashion demands of current fabric design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.30-41
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• 2013

Augmented reality techniques have been increasingly employed in the textile and fashion industry as well as computer graphics sectors. Three-dimensional virtual clothing CAD systems have also been widely used in the textile industries and academic institutes. Motion tracking techniques are grafted together in the 3D and augmented reality techniques in order to develop the virtual three-dimensional clothing and fitting systems in the fashion and textile industry sectors. In this study, three-dimensional virtual clothing sample has been prepared using a 3D virtual clothing CAD along with a 3D scanning and reconstruction system. Motion of the user has been captured through an RGB-D sensor system, and the virtual clothing fitted on the user's body is allowed to move along with the captured motion flow of the user. Acutal fabric specimens are selected for the material characterization. This study is a primary step toward building a comprehensive system for the user to experience interactively virtual clothing under real environment.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.667-673
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to obtain drape information and objective texture of fabrics easily and quickly by using a constructed fabric database. For the construction of the fabric database, 287 woven fabrics were examined by using the CLO fabric kit, KES-FB system, and drape test system. The k-means cluster analysis method was used to classify the fabrics into 7 grades. After correlation analysis of the fabric properties for each experiment, similar properties of the CLO fabric kit and KES-FB system were chosen, which were then designed to extract similar fabrics from the database. It was confirmed that inferring the drape information and objective hand feeling of fabrics was to some extent possible by extracting similar fabrics from the database. In this study, the primary hand and total hand value(THV) of KES-FB system, which was constructed by Kawabata and other experiments, were used to quantify the objective hand feeling, because they are the most widely used. However, these standards can be changed over time; in order to be applied within the clothing industry, these standards may have to be changed to some extent. Moreover, it is notable that although objective hand feeling cannot be expressed in the 3D virtual costume program, it can be easily derived from the constructed database. Additionally, it is expected that the existing 3D virtual costume program will express the costumes more realistically by improving these results.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.8-17
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• 1998

In this study we have examined electroless chemical plating on the plasma grafted poly [ethylene terephathalate］(PET) fabric in order to improve the interfacial adhesion between metal and fiber. The vapour phase of acrylic acid introduced on the PET surface and the graft polymerization was carried out by using cold plasma, resulting in the grafting yield of 0.8-1.3 wt％. The carboxyl group of the plasma grafted was identified by FT-IR-ATR spectra. The Interfacial adhesion was related to the carboxyl group. After electroless chemical plating of nickel, it showed that the more the carboxyl, the better the interfacial adhesion. Comparing to the untreated, the plasma grafted fabric showed fairly good interfacial adhesion(5B grade, ASTM D3359) . The shielding effect of electromagnetic wave showed 95dB. The shielding effect depends on the fabric structure, the surface structure, and the cross sectional shape of fibers. The dense fabric structure, the etched surface like a microcrater, and the trigonal cross sectional shape were prefered.

• Proceedings of the Korea Concrete Institute Conference
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• 1993.04a
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• pp.136-141
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• 1993

8 Wall specimens (1/2 scaled) used welded wire fabric (Ф=6mm) and ordinary deformed reinforcement(D6) of which their ultimate tensile strength were almost same were tested to investigate the inplane-flexural behavior. Test results show that : 1. The wall strength with welded wire fabric was 20% less than that with deformed bar. 2. The wall ductility ratio of welded wire fabric was 1/3 times than that of deformed bar, approximately. 3. It is recommened that lap splice of welded sire fabric should be avoided in critical fracture zone.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.344-352
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• 2017

This study investigated the formability and appearance performance of 20 women's worsted fabrics. For this purpose, 10 foreign fabrics (9 Italian + 1 Japan fabrics) were prepared and 10 domestic worsted fabrics for women were made in Cheil woolen textile company for comparing with foreign fabrics. The mechanical properties of the 20 fabrics were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems; subsequently, fabric formability (F) and total appearance value (TAV) were calculated and compared with a virtual 3-D simulation silhouette by i-designer CAD system. The fabric formability of the domestic fabrics, calculated by KES-FB system, was lower than foreign fabrics, which was assumed to be caused by the stiff tactile property. The result was similar to that of the FAST system. Good wearing performance of the foreign worsted fabric was assumed to be caused by high extensibility and the compressibility of the fabrics. The TAV's of the domestic fabrics were also lower than foreign fabrics. Both the correlation between TAV and formability by the KESFB system and the correlation between TAV and formability by FAST system showed a good correlation coefficient. Fabric formability between KES-FB and FAST systems also showed a good correlation. The 3-D simulation silhouette of the foreign fabric by i-designer CAD system appeared superior to the domestic one, and assumed to be attributed to the low extensibility of the weft direction, stiff bending and high shear properties of the fabric.