• 복식
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• 제67권4호
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• pp.131-152
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to analyze modern fashion culture in the 20th century through changes in transmedia in order to better understand characteristics of fashion contents. The study also strived to identify the characteristics of remediation in modern fashion and media by exploring the cultural code, and use it to establish an integrated view. The subjects and the method of the study are as follows. First, the study analyzed the development of transmedia and fashion culture since the 20th century. Second, it identified the transitional characteristics of transmedia. Third, the study analyzed the characteristics of remediation in modern fashion culture by using the characteristics of mediation, which appeared with the transitional characteristics of transmedia. The study results are as follows. First, the types of remediation are 'borrowing,' 'Representation,' 'Expansion,' 'Refashion,' and 'Absorb.' In old and new media, each type can be aesthetically experienced in 'transparency,' opaqueness,' 'Hypermediacy,' and 'Immediacy.' Second, fashion culture can undergo a transformation from its original form to a second and a third iteration, and this process allows for possibility of an expansion of multiple plots and well-rounded character settings. This opens up the possibility for fashion consumer participation, and signifies a transition into an environment where expansion of time and space is possible. The third finding is the non-mediation of fashion objects. The mediating relationship between clothes and media is directly connected to the development of new media. The immersion of new media by fashion consumers has the characteristics of 'transparency'/'Non-mediation,' and the reinterpretation and reproduction of original fashion styles have the characteristics of 'opaqueness'/'Hyper-mediation.' Fourth, fashion culture has data variability. Through 'Borrowing,' 'Representation,' 'Expansion,' 'Remodeling,' and 'Absorption,' the cultural hierarchy of reproduced fashion forms a multi-layered integrated network. Mediation code, which repurposes fashion culture contents, also creates new media fashion through transmedia.

• 복식
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• 제59권5호
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• pp.71-82
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to help understanding of patterns and to play a guideline's role in the development of designs and the prediction of trends for present and future fashion designers and textile designers. The methods of this study are the study of academic literatures as well as practical study through the analysis about actual works. The results of study are like followings. An inquiry of Pattern history in 20c is divided into six periods by the classification of styles and the styles of fashion culture according to other artistic formative will. Main trends of Pattern's image in each period and characteristics in each dimensions of Pattern image positioning are like followings. Art Nouveau style period from 1900 to 1910 is , Art Deco style period from 1910 to 1920 is , Elegance style period of 1930s is , and New Romantic style period from 1945 to mid 1950s and Pop style period from late 1950s to mid 1970s does not show main Pattern image but they are shown in four Pattern image of , , , . Compromising style period from late 1980s to 1990s shows all of four Pattern image, at the same time shows intensive main Pattern's image, .

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권6호
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• pp.170-181
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to suggest the possibility of futurism as original design pursuing newness in approaching 21C by studying how futurism having a great effect on fashion as innovatory ideology in early 20C did became paradigm in 20C fashion and the common peculiarity of the dress and its ornaments in this time before 21C. The Space Age Fashion and Techno-Cyber Fashion are representative futurism fashion of 20C. The common inner inclination in both Space Age Fashion and Techno-Cyber fashion are ; First, a future-oriented character. Second, a surrealism character, Third, an anti-cultural character. The greatest peculiarity in the common outer shape in both Space Age Fashion and Techno-Cyber Fashion is material. First, a innovatory choice. Second, an active motion. Third, a diverse effects. Future dress and its ornaments of 21C may be changed greatly by the development of technique, and this fact supports the forecast that the change of paradigm resulted from the development of science may have an effect on future dress and its ornaments as well as modern one. The paradigm change of futurism fashion would be continued, and its influence would work as main source shaping the form of design in 21C.

• 복식
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• 제61권1호
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• pp.84-93
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyse the fashion image behind the colour black formed by existentialism in the 20th century. Human beings started to ask themselves questions about their nature and existence by undergoing two world wars in the 20th century. Existentialism was born out of these philosophical thoughts and in particular, French existentialists led the public discourse of the time and expressed their philosophical thoughts and ideas through black fashion. Therefore we revealed the existentialistic meanings of black by studying the French existentialist ideology and their black fashion. The thoughts of existentialism became popularized in France by French philosophers. Sartre especially played a big role in the popularization of existentialism in France. The black fashion worn by existentialists became popularized along with the ideology that it expressed. Sartre's thoughts on existentialism are summarized in existence Precedes Essence, self-reliance, and engagement. From these, the fashion image behind the colour black formed by existentialism was analogized to resistant image, nihilistic image and self-reliance image.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.661-680
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine to change in the Chinese women's clothing according to the inflow of Western culture in the first half of the both century As for the research method, both literature and visual data are reviewed. Research results are as follows: The Step of transition in clothing by period followed beginning stage, adopted stage, early developed stage, fully developed stage, and static stage. fully developed stage showed a perfect compromise while being applied to Chinese costume with being introduced a three-dimensional cutting method of western clothing even to the constitution as well as to the appearance. Design elements from western clothing are as follows. The transition of silhouette is box silhouette, trapeze silhouette, shift silhouette, and fitted silhouette. In detail and trimming, tailored, band, convertible, shirts collar and zigzag, scallop, camisole neckline and puff, cap sleeve and flounced, bell shaped cuffs and western button, zipper, etc. are adopted. Finally, the Chinese modern style are formed by accepting and transforming the western clothing based on the traditional Chinese clothing.

• 복식문화학회:학술대회논문집
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• 복식문화학회 2004년도 정기총회 및 춘계학술대회
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• pp.72-74
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• 2004

현대 디자인 분야에는 건축이나 제품, 의복 등에까지 투명성이 디자인의 매우 중요한 요소로 활용되고 있다. 아름다우면서도 기능성과 견고함을 지닌 투명한 재료들이 과학기술의 발달에 힘입어 속속 개발되고 있으며, 또한 투명성 디자인은 현대 디자인의 트랜드인 즐거움과 유희 등을 표현하는 감성 트랜드와 잘 부합되기 때문이다. 본 연구는 이러한 시대의 흐름에 발맞추어 사용자들에게 재미와 즐거움의 가치를 감각적인 부분과 통합할 수 있는 디자인 개발에 목적을 두고, 20세기 후반부터 트랜드의 커다란 부분을 차지하고 있는 투명성을 좀 더 재미있고 여성스러운 감성을 자극할 수 있는 새로운 재해석의 방향을 찾아 패션 디자인을 제안하고자 한다. (중략)

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2003년도 춘계학술대회
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• pp.27-27
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• 2003

오늘날의 현대인들은 과거에는 드러낼 수 없었던 잔인하고 파괴적인 인간 본능의 모습들을 과격하게 보여주고 있다. 특히 1990년대 이후 세기말의 시대적 불안과 사회적 혼란을 반영하여 비정상적이며, 과격하며, 혐오스러운 반면 동시에 재미와 웃음이 섞인 그로테스크한 현상은 사회전반에 만연한 심리적 부조화와 소외현상 등 현대 사회의 현안 문제점들을 드러내고 있는 것이다. 복식에서 그로테스크는 오래 전부터 왜곡, 과장, 축소, 변형 등 여러 조작을 통하여 표현되어왔으며, 이러한 복식은 패션(Fashion) 혹은 패드(Fad)로 이어져왔다. 특히 20세기 후반 포스트모던 시대이후 빈번히 나타나며 더욱 더 충격적인 표현을 시도해 왔다.

• 복식문화학회:학술대회논문집
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• 복식문화학회 2003년도 추계학술발표대회
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• pp.128-129
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• 2003

최근 시장개방과 더불어 각종 문화매체의 통한 문화교류와 급속도로 증가하고 있는 인터넷 이용은 현대사회의 대중문화의 글로벌화를 만들어 현대인의 가치관에 큰 변화를 주고 있다. 특히 20세기 이전까지 전통적인 사회를 고수하고 있던 비서구권의 문화가 보다 서구적이며 비전통적으로 변화되어 가고 있다(Featherstone, 1990). 1988년의 이미 Triandis 등의 연구자들은 일본문화에 대한 연구에서 일본인들의 가치관이 전통적인 집단주의 측면보다 서구적인 개인주의 측면이 보다 강하게 나타나기 시작한다고 보고하였다. (중략)

• 한국지역사회생활과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국지역사회생활과학회 2003년도 제16차 학술대회
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• pp.153-153
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• 2003

메이크업 문화의 경우 1950년대까지는 이상적이라고 설정된 여성미가 획일적으로 일반인들에게 모방되었다. 그러나 1960년대 이후부터는 미에 대한 기존의 가치개념에 변화가 이루어지면서 메이크업은 사회구성원에 따라 다양하게 등장하는 미의 표출 수단으로 새롭게 전개되었다. 또한 20세기의 패션 산업 향장 산업, 광고산업, 영화를 포함한 각종 영상산업, 문화산업, 예술산업 등의 발달을 통하여 메이크업의 역할이 중요한 자리매김 되어가고 있다. 이들에 대한 재해석을 통한 현대 예술의 상상력은 메이크업의 영역을 확대 시켰다. 한국적 전통에 바탕을 둔 메이크업 역시 새로운 해석과 예술적 기술을 접목 시켜 현대의 미를 창조 함으로써 한국적인 에스닉 스타일을 개발는데 의의 있는 일이다.

• 복식
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• 제56권9호
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• pp.112-126
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• 2006

In this study, to study the aesthetic properties of the Italy fashion, the internal fashion contents are defined according to the cultural characteristics of Italy and based on the definition, the external features are investigated. The cultural characteristic was analyzed based on the reference literatures on the Italy culture. The aesthetical properties of the contemporary Italy fashion can be analyzed as follows: ${\cdot}$ Functionalism is a feature showing the Italian cultural environment where the genuine humanism is retained. It enables the practical designs by applying details and materials that wouldn't put a limit to the movement of the human body. ${\cdot}$ Naturalism focuses on the natural beauty of the human body without any artificial forms or exaggerated ornaments. Natural texture or materials are used to express the human body itself, or to emphasize the natural aesthetic effects flowing with the human body. ${\cdot}$ Localism is the expression of folk spirit affected by the natural environment. It expresses local atmosphere by unique craftsmanship in material, pattern, color and details. Based on this result, the aesthetic properties of the contemporary France fashion, examined through ${\Iceil}$A Cultural Approach to the Aesthetic Characteristic of the 20th Century French Fashion${\rfloor}$ and those of the contemporary Italy fashion are compared.