• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.8
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• pp.1364-1377
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• 2010

Although the human body is a biological subject with definite and distinctive physical features, its actualization and perception differs among societies. The aesthetics of the human body are based on diverse cultural perceptions that must be considered prior to design development. This study establishes the foundations of newly adopted concepts of beauty that are presumed to have been established in the first half of the twentieth century that continue to affect our mindset even now. The research includes human figures in the articles of women's magazines and cosmetic advertisements in the early $20^{th}$ century. The results are as follows: First, the change of perception in the human body: Instead of being a subject of preservation, the body has become a subject of sculpture with emphasis on health in the 1920's and on beauty in the 1930's. The recognition of the importance of the body has created intensive attention on physical training and an increased sense of hygiene. The body exposed to the public perceives itself through the eyes of others that alter one's own perception of oneself as well as become a target of evaluation. There is an additional emphasis on the exotic eroticism of a passive subordinate. Western culture became the standard for modernization along with the dissociation of traditional standards and values. Through the effect of education and western thinking, the awareness of women's rights and self-appreciation was developed. Second, ideal beauty can be summarized as follows: Unprocessed natural beauty was extolled as ideal in the 1920's, but the 1930's, it highlighted big eyes and an aquiline nose that are the characteristics of western women. Taking care of one's appearance was recognized as an important value for every social class. Cosmetics and skin care treatments promised soft and white skin. In contrast to western cosmetics, dark and shiny hair was highly favored. Exercising and traveling, differing seasonal and regional skin treatments were also widely accepted. In its initial stages, the research had originally assumed that the beginning of the twentieth century would be a time in which traditional concepts of beauty and new, westernized aesthetics coexisted. However, as the research progressed, it was clear that the idea of beauty had already adopted occidental ideals by that time. Thus, it seems necessary to continue the study on the shifting paradigms of beauty that must have occurred in the nineteenth and late twentieth century.

• Sijohaknonchong
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• v.44
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• pp.7-28
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• 2016

Music was made popular through the modern mass media. Nonetheless, if a period of high standard performances and appreciation by a minority of culture connoisseurs can be qualified with the expression "gentrification of culture", then a period when anyone can access culture through the mass media can be qualified with the terms "popularization of culture" and in this period the reorganization of performance culture can only be driven by the public. In fact, the Jabga, which is a type of traditional song that received strong public adhesion by means of phonograph records and radio broadcasts at the time, stands as a typical example to it. Gagok and Sijo up until the 1920s and even the 1930s are believed to engage actively in the changing media environment and the new modes of music enjoyment and transmission. The Album recording of faster rhythm music and the inclusion of the Sijo, Jabga, and folk songs in one broadcast programme can be seen as reflecting such an effort. However, it can only be hard for the Sijo and Gagok to challenge the predominance of the Jabga which made its lyrics more popular and the new songs written in accordance with the new media environment. Until the 1930s in this changing environment of music enjoyment, Gagok and Sijo performers rather sought to distinguish themselves from the existing popular song style by reproducing traditional forms. The album recording and broadcasting of Lee Wangjik Aakbu, the beginnings of local singers, the participation of male performers not only contributed to the diversification the enjoyment culture of songs and sijo, but also made the 'difference in standard' with the popular songs even more salient.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.5
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• pp.71-82
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to help understanding of patterns and to play a guideline's role in the development of designs and the prediction of trends for present and future fashion designers and textile designers. The methods of this study are the study of academic literatures as well as practical study through the analysis about actual works. The results of study are like followings. An inquiry of Pattern history in 20c is divided into six periods by the classification of styles and the styles of fashion culture according to other artistic formative will. Main trends of Pattern's image in each period and characteristics in each dimensions of Pattern image positioning are like followings. Art Nouveau style period from 1900 to 1910 is , Art Deco style period from 1910 to 1920 is , Elegance style period of 1930s is , and New Romantic style period from 1945 to mid 1950s and Pop style period from late 1950s to mid 1970s does not show main Pattern image but they are shown in four Pattern image of , , , . Compromising style period from late 1980s to 1990s shows all of four Pattern image, at the same time shows intensive main Pattern's image, .

• Journal of English Language & Literature
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• v.56 no.3
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• pp.445-459
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• 2010

William Carlos Williams discovers important sources of inspiration in the revolutionary avant-garde movements, in particular, Dada and Surrealism and attempted to embody the innovations in them in his poetic theory and practice. Williams's passion to create an indigenous American poetic work is compatible with his Dadaist experimentation with objets trouvés. Williams pays deep attention to objets trouvés, physical objects and marginalized people he comes across and transcribes his observations with poetic words freed from their instrumental contexts. In his characteristic poems written in the 1920s and 1930s, Williams records the social ruination and his task to give voice to the conflictual and fragmentary character of modernity is pursued through the Surrealist formulation of montage. In the Surrealist formulation of montage, the dialectical image is a central trope for reading the myth of modernity; it is positioned as both subject and object in the historiographic narratives of Walter Benjamin and Williams. As Benjamin tries to obliterate all traces of the author in the Arcades Project, Williams's montage poems like Spring and All only disperse argument into materialistic, dialectical images. The dialectical image in Williams's poetics becomes an organon of historical awakening so that truth can emerge from an unmediated juxtaposition of "things."

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.20
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• pp.241-274
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• 2010

Due to the remarkable changes in the early twentieth century, the new invention and technology impacted peoples' everyday lives and people started to use the word, modern, to apply specifically to what pertained to present times and to designate a movement in what was new and not old-fashioned-a condition of newness. In the present day, however, the fantastic cultural changes of a century ago have now become commonplace, and what was once considered radically new is no longer a reason to marvel. This paper considers what it mean to be modern, once the new is no longer new. This question seems to remain as complicated and inappropriate to ponder because the consideration and impact of modernity cannot simply end with the end of an era. This paper investigates how the interconnected nature of popular culture provides apt illustrations to reveal the ambivalent nature of modernity and postmodernity. In doing so, first of all, this paper pays attentions to the notion of modernity and popular culture which emerged together in the early twentieth century when technology and mass consumer culture were promoted over the world. Also, it examines how popular culture represents a complex of mutually-interdependent perspectives and values that influence society and its institutions in various ways as the image of modernity continues to build in a postmodern era. That is, popular culture is identified as a large amount of intertextuality or collective experiences due to its intermingling of complementary distribution sources and techonology. Thus, this paper explores that popular culture devotes itself other images or narratives instead of referring to the real world and its output revisits the contemporary or past times in other places, being a means to produce and reproduce the accumulated images of the modern which shapes ceaseless simulacra of modernity over complexities of modernity. In order to find a critical juncture of the complex networks of modernity and popular culture, this paper considers two places, Chicago and Gyeongsung in the 1920s and 1930s in which the rapid modern experience took place and the modern movement forced the two societies to join the mass consumer culture whether willingly or not. Next, this paper considers two movies released in 2002 and 2008 that exemplify the complexities of modernity in Chicago and Gyeongung of the 1920s and 30s: Chicago and Modern Boy. Both films have common themes of the 1920s and 30s such as violence, adultery, femme fatal, and criminal themes with the forms of musical, dance, drama, and romance. Through the textual analysis of both Chicago and Modern Boy, two films are compared in observing the similar and different ways in which two films deal with the theme of modernity when they are represented from the contemporary perspectives. More specifically, this paper questions how modernity is present in contemporary cultural forms such as commercial and hybrid genre films; and how these movies create a new image of modern by embodying the double coding. Ultimately, this paper aims at realizing the paradox of double edged modernity and its ongoing discourse that controls people's consciousness through the medium of popular culture.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.47-60
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• 2014

Urban-Hanok emerged as a result of urbanization of Hanok in the modern period. In particular, Urban-Hanok has been mass-produced from the early 1920s, when the population is concentrated in cities, until the middle. Large-scale development by the professional developer has been developed in large-scale land rather than individual client because housing shortage was serious problem. 11 Gahoe-dong was made in 1935-36 is representative Urban-hanok area of Bukchon. It was formed through division of large-scale Land in 1930's. In the 1930's, the large-scale development projects of Urban-Hanok was triggered by the two events. One is Land Investigation Project performed by the Japanese government to capitalization of property, another is the pro-japanese bought the large scale-land in Gahoe-dong at bargain price from The Japanese government. Each lot has still a topographical characteristics such as land-dividing quality, the way of development, characteristic quality of urban-tissue. 11 Gahoe-dong, Urban-hanok area was developed two ways. First, development have been adapted to the topography. The lots have reflected topographical conditions such as land cutting area, a retaining wall, land-diving was maintaining the original topography almost. Second, it was street oriented development. The lots have developed sequentially along the street. So, the lots's shape and size is different each. For this reason, this area distribute various type of Hanok.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.50 no.2
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• pp.138-148
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• 2022

The 1920s and 1930s were when new trends became prominent in Korean housing architecture. This study began with a curiosity about the appearance of residential gardens during the transition period, when housing types were changing. Since gardens are constantly evolving and living spaces, it is not easy to give a clear picture of their evolution. However, through popular magazines and newspaper articles published in the 1920-30s, this study investigated how people perceived the gardens socially and how they engaged in gardening. First, the study of Gyeongseong's urbanization process revealed that people perceived gardens as a way to give natural beauty to the urban environment. Therefore, the creation of a residential garden was strongly encouraged. Second, the housing improvement movement, which the architects actively discussed during this period, emphasized that a garden is a factor that can help improve the quality of the residential environment in terms of hygiene and landscape aesthetics. Third, since the media provided information on gardening, it was confirmed that the number of people engaged in gardening as a hobby increased. As designers and gardeners who had received a modern education became more active, the concept of "designed gardens" was formed. Lastly, although the houses were divided into various types, the shapes of the gardens did not show a significant difference according to the architecture type. They tended to embrace the time's ideal garden design and style. Therefore, even in a traditional hanok, Western-style gardens were naturally harmonized into the overall architecture, and exotic plant species could be found. Although the gardens found in media images were limited to those belonging to the homes of the intelligentsia, it can be seen that representativeness was secured, considering the popularity and ripple effect of the media. Therefore, this study contributes to the literature as it confirmed the ideal gardens and gardening methods in the 1920s and 30s.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Railway
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• v.9 no.4 s.35
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• pp.379-387
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• 2006

The objective of this study is to describe the influence of railway and railway station on the change of city structure in Korea in the early 20th century. In the 1900s, railway was constructed in Japanese concessions and in new pore cities such as Incheon, Busan, and Wonsan. In the 1920s, railroad construction became related with the cities, which could produce the corps. In the 1930s, railroad also became related to the colonial industrial cities. Traditional city structure was then completely changed because new city structure was focused on not Seoul but Japan or harbors towards Japan. So Korean cities, which were netted by railway, had become the subsystem of Japan in the early 20th century. Korean cities have developed on the basis of this system until 1945. For example, the twelve main cities were chosen through the relationship with Japanese life, and the provincial office governments moved near railroad stations. However nowadays, these cities have possibilities of being international cities, such as Incheon and Busan, because of the extroversion of these cities.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.28-41
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• 1986

In the history of costume, coat can be traced up to ancient Persia but it was generalized as today's style around 14th an d15th century in Euro[pe. World wars, revolutions and rapid social changes of the last 80 years have produced more changes in the way people dress than any comparable period in history. Thewse changes enabled emergence of more modernized woman's garments and through it, dress and coat ensemble became public's main fashion. In 1920's after world war I, boyish style in woman's garment was in vogue. Woman's coat was also in the same style with length sortened up to the knee level and silhoutte was straighter and semi-fitted than previous period. Length of the coat was longer in late 1930's but shortened again in 1940's. And the most popular silhouette of both 30's and 40's was shape of the hourglass which was commonly called the "X-shape". Also double=breasted coat with fitted waistline, belt and flare skirt was in vogue. In 1950's and 60's, with the variety of lines in woman's garments, silhouette of the coat also appeared in many different forms. Along with the various shapes, color of the coat changed throughout the decades : dark colors in 20's, bright colors in 30's, mixed colors of 20's and 30's in 40's and in 50's, color had changed to archromatic. In fabric, wool was most popular in all periods. However, such gabrics as tweed, cotton, gaberdine, linen were added to give variety. It is very interesting to see collars trimmed with expensive furs were very popular in 20's and 30's but it almost disappeared in 40's and fur trimming reappeared in late 50's. In addtion to silhouette changes in design, details such as buttons, epaulettes, pockets and fur trimming of hemline were emphasizing points of varieties in design. This study has set time limits world war I which was the period coat became major fashion of woman's clothing, to 1960's.

• Journal of Popular Narrative
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.13-51
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• 2021

As a case study, this paper historicizes the film culture in Namchon district in Keijo(京城) based on a preliminary research on the film ephemera produced during the colonial period. Through cross-examining articles appeared in Japanese newspapers and magazines at the time, this paper empirically reconstructs the Japanese settlers' film culture in Keijo, a colonial city whose cultural environment was ethnically divided into 'Bukchon' and 'Namchon.' During the silent era, movie theaters in the Namchon district not only played a role of cinema chain through which films imported and distributed by Japanese film companies were circulated and exhibited but also served as a cultural community for Japanese settlers who migrated to a colony. The film ephemera issued by each theater not only provided information about the movie program, but also connected these Japaneses settlers in colonial city, Keijo to the homogeneous space and time in Japan proper. Both as a minority and colonizer in a colony, these Japanese settlers experienced a sense of 'unity' that could 'distinguish' their ethnic identity differentiated from Koreans through watching movies in this ethnically segregated cultural environment. In doing so, they were also able to connect themselves to their homeland in Japan Proper, despite on a cultural level. This is a cultural practice that strengthens a kind of long distance nationalism. Examining Japanese film culture through film ephemera would not only contribute to the previous scholarship on modern theater culture and spectatorship established since the 2000s, but also be a meaningful attempt to find ways and directions for film history research through non-film materials.