• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.1
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• pp.76-90
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• 2010

Gwa-du(裹肚), name of a garment, appears often from documentary records of Joseon Dynasty. It is assumed as one of the upper garments for men, and according to the record, it was worn as a set with Dan-ryung(團領), Dap-ho(搭胡), Chul-rik(帖裏), Han-sam(汗衫), pants and socks. After the Japanese Invasion of Korea in the 17th century, it changes to a shape of wrapping clothes with straps at four corners, and used to cover the stomach of a corpse like sash. From 16th-17th century, before the Japanese Invasion of Korea, the excavated costume shows a clothing which takes a role of Jegori, longer than Han-sam(汗衫) and shorter than Po(袍). In this study, this clothing is called Gwa-du(裹肚). This study examined the usage and shape of Kwa-du from some documentary records- "朝鮮王朝實錄-The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", "禮書- Book of Manners", "宮中件記- Googjoonghalkee, recording court goods and commodities lists" and more with actual clothing. Kwa-du is presumed to have changed to men's Jegori So-chang-ui(小氅衣) after 17th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.30
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• pp.295-306
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• 1996

A large quantity of exhumed clothing found for recent 20 years has becom-e the material for making a concrete clarification of the structure of clothing in the Chosun dynasty. Exhumed clothing means the clothing found in the coffin when the grave of the ancestor buried several hundred several hundred years ago is removed to another pla-ce and it is almost comprised of ordinary clothes of the grave-owner not mourning clothes as well as clothing and ornaments in the period between the 15th cen-tury and th 19th century. This research is intended to inquire into the kind of chimas in the 16th century before the Imjin Japancese Invasion of Korea during 1592-1598. The after effect of the Imjin Japanese In-vasion was generally reflected in clothing them and the structure of clothing in the Chosun dynasty began to overshadew its di-chotomy with the Imjin Japanese I vasion of Korea as the point. Accordingly this research is concerned with the study of the chima system of the early Chosun dynasty which shows that there is a common point of the identical form though clothing was exhumed in different graves. Therefore it was possible to grasp women's clothing that was fashionable at that time The object for research is the women in the upper class of the 16th century whose representative characteristics are depicted as follows: 1. Women in the upper class wore the splendid clothing similar to the ordinary clothing of court ladies. 2. The division of ordinary chima and ceremonial chima appeared in the concrete. 3. Ceremonial chima had its extra width and length and exhibited its exaggerated silhouette. in particular it had a various forms of over-pleats made at its center front which play a role in supplementing discomfort in walking. This associate bustle and crinolin styles through which the modern design of clothing can be glimpsed. 4. The opposite phenomenon was shown that has been perceived up to now such as folding at the right plain seam the treatment of the edge-and the like. 5. The elaboration of manual needlework shows the culmination of women's workmanship.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.8
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• pp.125-136
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• 2007

This study is about the excavated female shroud while moving the graveyard of Nam-yang Hong clan in Yang-pyeong, Gyeonggi Province to other place. It is acquired as Yeon-An Kim clan who is a wife of one of Nam-yang Hong clan and history is estimated to 16th Century. Significance of this excavated female costumes is, 1) a Dan-ryeong, which is typical costumes during 16C. for woman is excavated. It is embroidered with peacocks shaped badge in fore and backside on a clothes, which is understood as the symbol of highest status but it is considered as much higher than actual status of her husband. from this, we can assume that burial costumes and regulation for actual clothes by the status are not exactly matched. 2) Various form of Chima and Jegori also found in the grave along with a Buddhist banner(幡) printed with Darani(多羅尼) which is unusual in Chosun dynasty, under confucian influence. 3) An embroidered design pillow was collected first time, which make us enable to understand the in-house life style of 16C.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.351-357
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• 1988

A feature of present fomula of dietary habitus is the result of its traditional succession, as like as the newly established culture is rooted in the inherited traditional culture. So, it is very important to discriminate the kind of korean traditional foods and to discuss the historical background of the foods in use, since they have to develope better dietary conditions in furture by using modern theory of dietetics. But there are few literatures concerning to korean traditional foods clear at a glance. However, some traditional foods including technology of cultivation and processing have been transmitted from generation to generation in some districts. Therefore, author has attempted to investigate the history of traditional foods. The results obtained were as follows. 1. A lots of traditional foods which were gifts to imperial court alloted to districts or civilian foods during Choson dynasty have been transmitted up to date, and the method of cultivation and processing are well preserved. Among them out standing examples are: 1) persimmon and its processed goods. 2) red pepper and malted pepper catchup. 3) ginger and its processed goods. 4) honey, bean sprouts etc. 2. It has been reported that ginger was cultivated in China in 5th century B.C. and in Korea early in 16th century. But historical relationships between them could not be confirmed. However, from SAMKUKSAGI and the report by Lee, Suk Woo(1754-1825) who was governor of Chonla province and remarked ginger as a sacred herb at Wanju county, Bongong town, it is suggested that ginger is a natural growing herb in Korea. 3. Soonchang malted pepper catchup is one of outstanding traditional foods which our ancestor have processed with red pepper. Peru is the place of origin, where they have cultivated pepper from 1st century. It is conceivable that pepper was transmitted from Europe to korea late in 16th century, and the first report on existence of pepper in korea was written in 1613. Therefore, it seems that malted red pepper catchup was processed 30 or 40 years later.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2004.08a
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• pp.340-341
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• 2004

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.9
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• pp.26-42
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to examine how to sew the hem of men's coat which were excavated from the Yeosan Song Clan's tombs that are thought to be formed between the late 15th and the late 16th centuries, findings of the study can be summarized as follows. 1. Andan, or inside facing was used to prevent the hem from being worn or swollen or to make the hem properly arranged. It was generally used for single-layered and cotton-quilted coat for men. Deotdan was used mainly for men's coat having oblique cutting lines and jemuldan for those having straight cutting lines. In single-layed coat for men, the width of andan was widened a little as the times moved from the late 15th to the late 16th century, but in cotton-quilted ones, the width was not significantly changed. 2. Fixing the lining and the upper was used as a method to prevent the lining of men's coat from being pushed out or the hem of the clothes from being swollen. The method was generally used for double-layered, cotton and cotton-quilted coat for men. The double back-stitching was usually used for double-layered and cotton coat for men and the broad-stitching for Cotton-quilted ones. 3. Among men's coat, those whose siding was partially opened were less spare in the lower end than those whose siding was wholly opened. For this reason, the former clothes were more likely to have the tip of the siding easily torn. To solve this problem, overhand knotting 1, overhand knotting 2 and lotus-flower knotting strings were used for men's coat whose siding was partially opened. Among the three types, lotus-flower knotting was most elaborate in form. For men's coat, overhand knotting became gradually replaced by lotus-flower knotting as the times moved from the late 15th to the late 16th century.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.124-136
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• 1995

This study was conducted to find the distinguished pattern of Korean 'Dae'. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to define how the pattern of 'Dae' has been developed and what is the characteristics of the pattern of Korean 'Dae'. The summarized results are as follows; 1. The types of 'Dae'(rock in the nature, a 'Dae' built artificially, a structure) were identified in the era of the three kingdoms. And in the era of the three kingdoms, 'Dae' was regarded as: a mysterious place related with a king, the place where concrete activities of a specific person had occurred in there, and a mountain peak 2. in the era of Koryo , artificial aspect of 'Dae' were emphasized. In addition, the activities occurred in the 'Dae' took concrete shape by kings. 3. The characteristics of the pattern of 'Dae' during Chosen Dynasty are: 1) A type of huge flat rock(27.6%), a type of mounts고 peak and a type of cuff(24.1%), a type of fantastic rock(15.5%), a type of stratified rock(6.9%) were shown 2) The main activities on 'Dae' were play , observation, and rest 3) In the viewpoint of the locational characteristics, 'Dae' were found in the mountains, at the top of the mountain peaks, on high hill, on cliffs, at the riversides, and on the beaches, etc. 4. With consideration on change trend of the number of'Dae' according to literature(time) , the biggest geographical distributions of 'Dae' were shows in Hamkyungdo in noddle of 15th century (Saejongsillockjiriji), in Kangwondo in the middle of 16th century (Sinjeongdonggukyecjiseongram), in Chunrado in middle of 17th century(Donggukyeojiji), and in Kyungsangdo in middle of 18th 19th century(Yeojidoseo, Eubji) 5. Through the whole period of Chosen Dynasty, the geographical distribution of 'Dae' had much in Kyungsangdo and Pyungahndo.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.16 s.16
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• pp.27-38
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• 2004

This study was performed to characterize historical paper artefacts from 16th to 19th century from Chungbuk National University Museum (CNUM) in Korea. In order to know the fiber composition, surface features and fiber orientation in historic paper artefacts, LM, SEM and EDX analysis observations were applied. Based on tested results, it was concluded that Korean historic papers from 16 to 19th century were made of paper mulberry fibers called dak, which had 2.79-16.03 m of fiber lengthes and $4.5-26{\mu}m$ of lumen widthes, and they were relatively well preserved. According to EDX analysis, the examined papers differed to the contents of inorganics. High contents of S, Si, Ca, P and Al refer to use fillers, such as gypsum, clay and talc, for paper artifacts. In particular, half of samples contained some amounts of S, Cl and Fe. Since those inorganics might be potentially harmful for the paper permanency, therefore it should be considered special restoration measures from the preservation point of view.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.203-206
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• 2010

We examined five astronomical variables formulas of the two conventional harmonic prediction programs (IOS tidal package (IOS) and Task-2000 tidal package (Task2K)) in relation to hindcast of paleo-tides and -tidal currents on historical navel battlefields such as Myeongryang Naval Battle (September 16th, 1597 according to the lunar calendar). Through the comparison of the resultant values in a certain time (00:00 January 1) of each year (1801, 1800 and 1597) calculated from the two different formulas, we understood that the reason why Task2K is incapable of hindcating them in pre-19th century, Specifically, we found that the Task2K formulas directly using the Gregorian calendar date did not identify leap years in calculating astronomical variables beyond the period of 1801-2099. Therefore, the IOS's formulas, which use the day number referenced on midnight 1/1/0000, are recommended for use in hindcasting paleo-tides and -tidal currents on historical navel battles in pre-19th century.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.37
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• pp.121-150
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• 2004

As genre of Buddhist paintings that express generally mountains and waters, there are Eight Scenes from Life of the Buddha(八相圖), Eternal Life Painting(甘露圖), Avalokitesvara Painting(觀音菩薩圖) includes Sixteen Lohans painting(十六羅漢圖), and Hermit Painting(獨聖圖), or Mountain God Painting(山神圖) which is especially appeared in late Chosun Period. These Buddhist paintings had various backgrounds including mountains and waters, the tradition of Water Ink Painting still remains after 18th century, however the trends got complicated to express various landscapes including splendid color, waters and mountains, and it appeared to have historical trend with introduction of factors of Minhwa(民畵) so called in 19th century. Sixteen Lohans painting painted from late 19th to early 20th century, still contains the traditional factors in terms of describing background among above trends, however the main factors of expressing the background are different from other Buddhist painting which reflects historical art trends in colors and its materials by drawing various background distinctively. That is, Sixteen Lohans painting is distinct at describing the background of blue & green colored mountains and waters that is appeared in trend of Minhwa(民畵) and the royal which were popular at that time It also shows broad acceptance with introduction of new background expressions such as Sipjangsang(十長生, Picture of 10 different things of Sun, Mountain, Water, Stone, Cloud, Pine, Plant of eternal youth, tortoise, Crane, and deer to hope the eternal life) Unryoung(雲龍, Dragon Cloud), Mangho(猛虎, Wild Tiger), Gweseck(怪石, Oddly shaped stone), Hwajo(花鳥, Flowers and Birds), Chaekgoeri(冊巨里, The books and bookshaves). In terms of its materials, positive representations of eternal life, wealth and luck were mainly appeared, this is closely related with Self-Search of Buddhist which was the trend at that time that Buddhist turned into the popularized religion in Chosun Period, especially the cooperation of popular belief with Taoism. This is appeared on various Taoists that is expressed in Buddhist paintings of Sixteen Lohans painting at that time. It would provide some clauses to infer the painted years of existing Minhwa at the fixed type of folk story paintings appeared on Sixteen Lohans painting painted mainly from late 19th to early 20th Century. There is also a possibility of the active participation of Buddhist painters(佛畵僧) as painters of Minhwa by request and demands from common people. Inquiry into factors of folk story paintings among Buddhist paintings started from similarity of the materials and shapes, however it doesn't seem to have dramatically expressed comic or exceptional techniques. But, the fact that there are similar types of decorative pictures in the Royal Court rather seemed to be possible for Buddhist paintings to have functions as religion.