This study is aimed at providing useful data which can be utilized for the design of their dress forms and enhancing the fitness of their apparels. To this end 330 pre-school children living in the capital area and aged from 4 to 6 were sampled to be subject to the measurement of their somatotypes. The results of this study can be summarized as follows ; 1 By the analysis of overlapped cross section diagram and silhouette diagram of each somatotype both had a common shape of lean-backed upper troso. 2. The type 1 showed less dimensions in most scales than type 2 while their shoulder were less developed. The type 2 showing more development in each element. 3. As a result of comparing the dress forms designed in reference with classified somatotypes and the commercial ones it was found that the former ones had the upper body part slanted slightly backwards and the belly part extruded forwards while the latter had a straight posture with large shoulder parts. After all the commercial dress forms were found not to reflect the actual somatotypes of Pre-School children's.
This thesis is a rearch on ritual dresses and ideology of new Korean religions primarily cen-tering on the way how religions ideology has been expressed into them. THe results are as follows" 1. The representative ideology in new Korean religions is the beginning of the world after the end religional union anthropocentrism ethno-centrism and social reform. 2 The creator of Mirukbulgyo hinm-self made the ritual dress for Mirukbulgyo Therefore his thought and the thought new religions are expressed variously on literatiure and ritual dress Ritual dress which has been wearing to all the believers show the thought of social reform also it is not connected with the social position and sex distinction. That ritual dresses are used the part of boue color appears the thought of beginning of the world after the end and ethnocentrism The organization of all the dresses contains the ideol-ogy of religional joined-one. Each dress embodies the ideology of religional union and anthropocentrism in its Inhwagwan, Chungbok contains the ideology of religional union which Taosim prefominanates and ethnocentrism P'oui contains the ideology of beginning of the world after the end and the ideology of social reform.form.
With a view to developing male dress forms for educational purposes, human body measurement was made for male adults in their twenties residing in Busan, Korea. Based on the results, the following conclusion was obtained: 1. Comparison d the measurement in Busan and the data of the 5th Korean physical dimensions(Size Korea) In the comparison of the Busan male adults in their 20s with national physical dimensions(Size Korea) by way of the Mollison relational deviation line, all the 28 items revealed differences less than 0.7. As the Busan sample reflects the body type d the average Korean men in their 20s, Busan's measurement results can be safely used as the data for dress form development. 2. Results of front body type classification According to the factor analysis, seven factors of the front body type were produced to explain 77.25%. The factors were shoulder angles, waist height, hip shapes, chest shapes, proportion of body(chest, waist, hip)width to shoulder width and so on. Cluster analysis brought about three somatotype groups. First, the body type with the least differences in hip-waist width, shoulder-waist with, and hip angles (24,23% in appearance) was named Type H. Second, the body type with the most chest-waist width and hip angles (38.66% in appearance) was called Type Sam X Third, the body type with the greatest shoulder-chest width, shoulder-hip width, and shoulder angles (37.11% in appearance) was termed Type Y.
This study was performed to provide the dress form for high school girls' clothing construction which can reflect the characteristics of their body. Two hundred and forty seven high school girls aged from 15 In 17 were directly measured. The results obtained from this study were as follows ; 1. High school girls' somatotype was similar to that of young adult women. They had the features of well developed upper trunk and well developed breadth, but less developed depth. 2. The correlation between length item and the other items was small enough to interpret that each item was independent. There was a Positive correlation between depth item and girth item. And, Observed correlation between weight and Rohrer's index and breadth, depth and girth item was much larger than expected, which showed that weight and Rohrer's index influenced on fatness factor. 3. Through factor analysis, six factors were extracted from anthropometric measurements. The first factor was representing upper body volumn which expressed the characteristics of somatotype better than any other factors, the second factor was breadth, the third factor was size, the fourth factor was length, the fifth was back shape and the sixth factor was shoulder shape. 4. For development of dress form for high school girls, directly anthoropometric measurements were used. The dress form constructed through this study represented the characteristics of high school girls, therefore this would be very useful to manufacture clothing for them in the future.
The purpose of this study is to clarify the adaptation of beauty of traditional dress depicted contemporary Korean fashion design. For this purpose, the external form and the internal meaning based on 'the double roots' proposed by W$\ddot{o}$lfflin were analyzed in Korean traditional dress. Documentary studies and objective studies were done with descriptive and content analytic methods. And homospatial process was devised in order to develop the traditional identity in contemporary fashion design. The results were as follows: 1. As the external form, H. O. A silhouette, chogori, ch'ima, paji, and po concerning internal type, kaftan, flat form related to structured type were represented. Traditional color sense were love of white, contrasting as well as analogous color harmony shown often in nature phenomena, and temperate achromatic color harmony. Texture were characterized as rough and coarse expressing vividness, fine and smooth expressing delicateness and tenderness. As the internal meaning, the beauty of purity related to nature, tragedy, and symbolism were represented. 2. Since 1980's. Korean fashion designers frequently applied unstructural kaftan form and H silhouette to Korean fashion design, and sought natural and pliable line in whole dress. Use of white and achromatic color harmony as well as use of linnen were prominent. Designers' aesthetic consciousness was pursuit of the beauty of nature. Representative designers who concentrated on expressing traditional beauty were Lee Shinwoo, Sul Yoonhyung, Jin Taiok and others. 3. A homospatial process could be a method in the creative design which enables to express Korean identity in fashion design, and could suggest ideas of new designs full of Korean identity by superimposed and fused imaginery.
The purpose of this study was to clarify the cultural characteristic of dress and adornments by examining articles on dress adornments and related items in Korean newspaper over periods historically and objectively by means of content analysis. This study attempted to at-tain a macro-cultural view by analysing to at-tain a macro-cultural view by analysing closely the cultural characteristics of dress and adornments as a micro-cultural system through culturally based model suggested by hamilton. The two-hundreds and eighty articles on dress and adornments were selected from newspapers(most by form Chosun Ilbo and partly from Maeil Shinbo) pulished between 1920 and 1990. The results were as follows: 1. The culture of dress and adornment received much attention during the 1930's and 1960's and little during 1950's. 2. Various cultural characteristics of dress and adornments appeared on and after 1960's: reporting more foreign news items showing foreign-oriented and future-oriented features showing cultural relativism. In the 1920's and 1970's the contents of news items on dress and adornments show the most common- mass- oriented character. Foreign-oriented cultural tendencies in cloth-ing were increasing during from 1960's to 1970's but the tendencies were turned to rather tradition-oriented features on and after 1980's compare with 1960's-1970's. Advisory critical articles on dress and adornments were small in number and insignificant but compare with other periods these received much atten-tion during the 1920's and 1980's. 3. Ideological components received much at-tention on and after 1920's to 1990. Techo-nological components received much attention during 1920's and little during 1960's. The social structural components received a little attention on and after 1920's-1940's and 1990. 4. News items on women's dress and adornments received much attention from the 1920's to 1960's and news items on both men's and women's dress and adorments were in-creasing and received much attention on and after the 1970's. 5. The pragmatic cultures were mostly re-lated to techonological components and evaluative-normative culture were mostly re-lated to ideological and social structural components. In the light of these results dress and adorments as a cultural sub-system comprise a dynamic inteacting system that articulated directly with the macro-cultural system.
Dress is an expressive art form which involves a human activity; utilizes techniques under sufficient technical control that results in the production of typical forms on the basis of aesthetic standards. This study was conducted to clarify a relationship of Impressionism and it's image in dress-Bustle style. Artists such as Manet, Renoir, Cezanne, Gogh, Gauguin, and Rodin were reviewed. Impressionism was a method of painting that consists in repoducing an impression exactly as it is experienced from contemplation nature. The Impressionists used a technique of separate, fragmented brush strokes and pure prismatic colore, aiming at rendering changing effects of light. Fashion designers such as Charles Worth, Givency, Cardin, Ungaro, and Lacroix were examined. Throughout their fashions, they focused on the naturalism of feminine and seductive image-the touch of Vegetable Venus depicted on the paintings of Manet and Renoir; expressed "unmitigated sexiness" in various forms of Bustle sytle creating a seductive beauty, revealing body contour, breast and legs, and using a fragmented motif and flowers with vivid color.
The purpose of this study was 1) to analize the female figures with potbelly in the nude of the 15th-l6th century, 2) to find out the historic event which made these figures appeared, and 3) to clarify the influence these figures on dress. The results were as follows: 1) There was a sudden decrease in population by the Black Death in the Middle of the fourth century, so supplement of labor was urgent demand at that imp. Childbirth was the only way of supplement of manpower. 2) Therefore, the figure of pregnant woman was regarded as the female figure ideal. The artists depicted this figure ideal in nude. 3) This female figure ideal changed the form of dress. Pillow, pad, and special undergarments were used to make potbelly.
The dimensional structure of impression formed of a female figure in specific attire was identified and significant influence of skirt length and suit color on impression formed of figures in suits were researched in the part I of this study. In part ll, the effect of identical elements of apparel design on impression formation of a female figure in dress and pants- blouse were studied. The experimental matirals consisted of two sets of stimuli and 7 point semantic differential response scale developed in part 1. Each set of stimuli was composed of 20 drawings representing female figures in each attire. Three independent variables, which were the length of bottom, color of dress or pants and collar type of blouse, were manipulated in each stimulus. The experiment was arranged by 3 factorial design, and the data were analyzed by 3-way ANOVA and by Multiple Classification Analysis. To summarize, in impression formation of figure in dress, the most dominant design element was identified as bottom length and the second most dominant one was color of dress. In contrast, in perception of figure in pants-blouse, the most important design element was color of pants and secondly important one was bottom length. The collar type of top didn't have critical effect on impression formation of figures in both type of attire.
This thesis intends to suggest a new wedding dress pattern through researches on history and changes of wedding dress, researches on silhouette and details and analyses of existing basic patterns. In this study, to develop torso patterns of top dresses selected as preferred designs through literature reviews and company surveys, dress form sizes suitable for standard sizes were selected and study basic patterns were made using draping techniques. The study finds characteristics of body type dimension that is changed when wearing brassiere (hereinafter, 'bra') for wedding dress through customer surveys for development of basic patterns of wedding dress. That is, wearing wedding bra was used for the purpose of increasing the bust size and we will evaluate later whether this increase helps completeness of aesthetic impression through wearing evaluation. As the result, it was found out that top torso pattern wearing wedding bra made wearers feel more comfortable and in the aspect of aesthetic impression, it provided impacts on women's beautiful silhouettes. The effects of whether a bra is used or not on changes in patterns were reviewed through the degree of polymerization of finished patterns. When a bra for dresses was worn, the waist front length increased by1.7cm, the bust circumference increased by 2.1cm, and the amount of dart increased by 1.5cm in the patterns. A new torso pattern for top dresses, which will solve problems evaluated in each of the above from the aspect of composition of pattern by a method through analysis of existing basic patterns and multi-dimensional cut patterns wearing wedding bra, will be suggested.
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