• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.5
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• pp.61-77
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to investigate difference and likeness on the form in women's Hanbok between the later Chosun Dynasty and modern times based on Belong's observing system for 'Apparel-Body Construct'. Belong's framework is composed 5 pairs of contrast word -'Closed or Open', 'Whole or Par', 'Planar Separation or Planar integration'. 'Flat or Rounded', and 'Determinate or Indeterminate'. Major findings of this study are as follows. First, the form of women's Hanbok in later Chosun Dynasty is 'Variably Closed', 'Part' and 'Rounded', whereas that in modern is 'Open', 'Whole' and 'Flat' Women's Hanbok of modern is lesser convex, and more open than that of later Chosun Dynasty according to increasing use of transparent textiles. Moreover, in comparison with old style, that of modern has the tendency of perceiving primarily whole feature by organic linkage of parts. Because of loose fit of Jeogori and rigid DongJong etc, characteristic of 'Plat' strengthened in modern Hanbok. Secondly, women's Hanbok in the later Chosun Dynasty and modern has common properties of 'Planar Seperation' and 'Determinate'. Women's Hanbok belongs to 'Planar Seperation', because the effect cognized to figure and ground. can be found between small parts and whole of Jegori, or can be found between the head and face. Jeuori and waist band, and Chima and under ware. Further more. it can be classified into 'Determinate'. because it use textiles which have no pattern un it or which show a subtle surface effect by texture changing.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.33-44
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• 2022

Rental services have recently come to be provided in which people can experience traditional Korean culture in the form of Hanok villages, allowing everyone can easily rent and wear hanbok, a traditional Korean garment, regardless of gender and age. Users of hanbok rental services share photos of themselves wearing hanbok on social media, contributing to the increasing popularity of hanbok experiences. However, the trend of wearing hanbok has no become established in people's daily lives, apart from the specific places that offer hanbok experiences. To promote hanbok as everyday clothes, hanbok design should be developed to provide wearers with both convenience and emotional satisfaction. Using 28 emotion words that express consumers' emotions toward hanbok that were extracted from previous studies, this study measured consumers' emotions toward different types of hanbok with on a seven-point Likert scale. Emotion words and categories that obtained scores of five points or above, signifying a rating of "felt fairly" or higher in relation to specific hanbok types were extracted. This study also examined differences in the average scores for emotional categories according to hanbok types and gender. The results indicated that only average scores for the "favorable feeling" category showed a significant difference between men and women. Finally, differences in the average scores for emotional categories were examined by classifying hanbok types: traditional (e.g., baenaet-jeogori, saekdong-jeogori, traditional hanbok for adults, and traditional wedding clothes) and modern (e.g., daily hanbok for children, for women, and for men). The results indicated significant differences between traditional and modern hanbok in six emotional categories (i.e., the cheerful, esthetic, harmonious, fresh, favorable, and stable feeling). This study derived analytic results for terms related to emotions that hanbok wearers feel according to types of hanbok. The findings can be used by hanbok retailers and rental services to provide consumers with greater emotional satisfaction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.37-49
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• 2001

The purpose of this research was to investigate the influential factors to wear or not to wear \"Hanbok\" in Korean society. Twenty six individuals who wear Hanbok relatively often, and twenty seven individuals who dont were purposively sampled and interviewed for the study by structured depth-interview method. A domain analysis, a method of qualitative study, was employed to find out the influential factors from the results of the depth-intervews. From the analysis, fifteen encouraging or discouraging factors to wear Hanbok emerged and were categorized into five domains, which included \"interpersonal relationship\", \"life-style\", \"image\", \"practicality\" and \"decorative function\". The personal involvement in traditional culture, tradition-oriented family background, good images related to Hanbok, and affordable life-style appeared to be encouraging factors to wear Hanbok. Meanwhile, social norm and role-expectation adjusted to westernized criteria, unaffordable life-style, ill practicality of Hanbok and negative cues associated with Hanbok were the factors influencing people to turn away from Hanbok. The study also revealed complex interactions between these factors explaining individuals choice of wearing or not wearing Hanbok in industrialized modern society of Korea. Some suggestions to promote wearing Hanbok were made based oh the results of this study.wearing Hanbok were made based oh the results of this study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.2 s.101
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• pp.17-31
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• 2006

This study is tried to identify the changes in modern Hanbok for the past five decades through the literatures and actual materials such as the First Ladies' costume. In Hanbok fashion, there is a trend that influenced by politics, economy and culture just like in western fashion. After liberation from the Japanese colonialism, the most important factors in Hanbok fashion were economic factors caused by the development of textile industry and the dressing attitude of the First Ladies at that time. In 1950s, a modified Hanbok that is easy to wear was popular. It was partly because of the west oriented atmosphere after the Korean War and mainly due to the practical dressing attitude of First Lady, Francesca. In 1960s and 70s, former First Lady Yuk Young Soo who loved and had good taste for Hanbok led the fashion. At that time, high ranking female social leaders as well as general public usually wore Hanbok on formal occasions. Therefore, textile industry for Hanbok developed a lot and tailored shops that specialize Hanbok emerged. In 1980s, as the economy got better, Hanbok was upgraded and it became more luxurious. Traditional Hanbok was revived through a historical investigation. Additionally, the former First Lady Lee Soon Ja helped fostering a luxurious mood as she wore a Hanbok as a formal dress. After 1988 Olympic Games were successfully held, the importance of the traditional culture was emphasized in 1990s and Hanbok followed retro trend rigorously through the academic approaches including a dressing history. Hand painted and naturally dyed Hanboks were strong in this period. Former First Lady Kim Ok Sook's sophisticated Hanbok attire partially had effect on this mood. However, From the late 1990s Hanbok became less popular. It was partly because the former First Lady Son Myoung Sun and Lee Hee Ho preferred western style dresses and did not play a role as Hanbok fashion leaders.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.5
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• pp.631-655
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• 2022

Modern Hanbok tends to use new colors based on traditional colors and their symbolic meanings. In addition to the traditional colors, various expressions have been increased, it is necessary to consider the color and color trend used in modern clothing. This study focused on the period 2011 - 2020 and analyzed the main color and coloring method of top and skirt by year with 450 data from a total of 81 wedding magazines. The results of examining the characteristics of traditional colors during the target period are as follows. First, the main color of the Jeogori showed a distribution of various colors in the first half, but the main color of the skirt concentrated on black, white and light pink in the second half. Second, while the use of blue and green systems decreased, Dang-ui color changed to warm yellow, green, and red systems. The Baeja used plain dark white in the first half; however in the latter half, they changed to white or accented colors. The one-piece used various colors in the first half, but only black and white appeared in the second half. Third, in the upper and lower colors of Hanbok, the blue-red color, the traditional contrast color of the first half, decreased significantly in the second half. The appearance rate of proximity for the complementary color harmony of white-red color and the adjacent color harmony of white-blue increased.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.793-799
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• 2015

Hanboks have evolved throughout time; for example, the curved Barae has changed into a more modern and sophisticated straight one. The development of staining techniques has increased color selections with more luxurious designs. I suggested a design of Dolbok that considers functionality, practicality and economic feasibility through a comparison of past and present designs. I suggested a fusion Hanbok based on a traditional Dolbok for baby boys and girls. An abundance of cheap resources has decreased the tradition of hand down clothes; therefore, I created functional and economic methods to adjust a Hanbok for kids to wear a long time. First, I made it possible to adjust the length of a skirt by a slip stitch (or catch) stitch with a Seurandan (ornate lower band) and placed the button on shoulder part of the skirt for baby girls. The width of skirt is designed for a 4 year old instead of 1 year old to adjust the size and compensate for growing kids; however, the clothes still look stylish despite the overlapped area. Second, I made a baby boy's vest with a belt that follows traditional methods that were comfortable for width variation. Third, I made Geodeulji (sleeve-ends trimmed with wide bias) that enabled long or short sleeves. Geodeulji made with a variety of fabric colors will enhance the decorative effect. Fourth, I made the width of clothes adjustable by putting Korum (tie) ON Jeogori for baby boys and girls. There are many studies on Hanboks but few reports on modern Dolbok. I believe that designers should further study fusion Hanboks within framework of traditional Hanbok designs to increase comfort and appeal.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.7
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• pp.69-88
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to delve into the identity of the New-Hanbok style in modern fashion, and to survey its formative characteristics and internal values from the perspective of vernacular design. Arguments can be summed up as follows. The study historically examines the changes in Hanbok and concludes that the social and cultural backgrounds and factors that caused the advent of the New Hanbok are (1) the change and expansion of the basic social, cultural, and popular perception toward the Korean image, (2) the rapid spread of a subculture centering on the younger generation, and (3) the voluntary and systematic activities of nonprofit clubs, communities and private organizations. This is the cycle of the spread of Hanbok, which shows the subcultural selection and development process of upward propagation. Furthermore, the public, in addition to holding fast to an independent attitude regarding their choices, also show that they tolerate diversity. As a perspective of analyzing the New Hanbok style, the study suggests the characteristics of the vernacular design perspective as (1) a spontaneous indigenous nature (2) living everydayness (3) and the subcultural-ness of the era. From such a perspective, the study examines the formative characteristics of the basic costume configuration of the New Hanbok style including jeogori, traditional Korean skirts, Cheollik one-pieces, and Trompe l'oeil one-pieces, and draws out the meanings contained in the New Hanbok style, which are (1) spontaneous indigenous nature and directivity toward tradition, (2) living everydayness and modernity, and (3) open subcultural-ness.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.272-288
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to classify the types of decoration techniques used in women's Chima and Jeogori in traditional Hanbok catalogs from 2010 to 2020, and to analyze the frequency of each type. The method of this study is as follows. This study first investigated the transition of modern Hanbok and decorative techniques by analyzing and classifying such work in previous studies. Based on this, the technique of decorating the Jeogori and Chima that appeared in the traditional Hanbok catalog of the study period was analyzed. The results of the study are as follows. In the case of Jeogori, in the first half of 2010, the decorative technique of a relatively large size was used, and the decorativeness tended to be strong. However, in the late 2010s, the number of decorative techniques used in Jeogori has decreased, and the size of the decorative technique has become smaller and more concise, leading to a tendency to understated decoration. In the case of Chima, techniques to express natural texture by processing threads or fabrics themselves were mainly used rather than techniques to add decoration to the surface, and techniques to express various surface texture tended to develop toward the late 2010s. The change in the decoration technique of Jeogori and Chima appears to be a combination of social, cultural, and economic factors such as a change in consumption culture and a reduction in the wedding market.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.1-13
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is followings. First, We analyze the times from initial works to present ones. Second, Detail element of Modificational process of Hanbok design with a expession element of clothes. Third, We intend to liquidate characteristics of External beauty and internal values for Lee Young Hee' s works, besides we expect that Hanbok is harmonized with modern times, is globalized, and is universalized. It is research method and region that we observe characteristics of korean beauty with theoretical background and we examinate formalism and contents of korean style of dresses through analysis of data. So, we insinuate a standard for analysis of beauty. Analysis data is her possession and slide from 1980 to ‘2000 A/W’ and ninety collection magazine data. We analyze beautiful characteristics along the expression elements of dresses and every year. So, We can find beautiful characteristics of works for expression elements of dresses, every year, and physical beauty and internal value of dresses. As a result, initial works have succession and development of tradition. But through second & third period, inclined physical beauty have duplicated aspects with closing and opening characteristics. So, She has expressed internal beauty.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.1111-1125
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to research the characteristics of the pattern design and the weave construction of 67 fashion fabrics in women's Hanbok. All the fabrics were made by 100% silk. Arrangement, size, and the type of patterns were investigated for research of the pattern characteristics. Pattern weave and background weave were analyzed, then the weight and the thickness were measured for studying the fabric construction. The results were as follows. First, irregular arrangement was more commonly used than regular arrangement, and then the complex arrangement and the combination arrangement were appeared considerably because of the existence of the various patterns in a fabric. Third, the types of pattern weave construction were much more than those of background weave construction. This is caused by the expression of dimensional effect for patterns. This survey can be practically used for development of pattern design for Hanbok industry and furthermore it will contribute to revitalizing of Hanbok market to overcome design limit in the future.