• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.9
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• pp.41-50
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• 2006

This study examines the characteristics of the military look in modern fashion. The materials for the study are mainly precedent studies and related literature, although fashion portfolios and magazines, domestic and international, are used for the exploratory study. The results of the study are as follows. First, the military look for women dismantles the sexual symbolism endowed with the clothes by expressing a neutral charm out of dichotomy image between genders. The neutral expression of the military look, different from the military look of the 20th century, provides a chance to feature a new image by pursuing more individual freedom than human itself. Second, the military-look emphasizes feminine sensual charm through exposing, concealing, or decorating with ornaments which are transformed from the elements of the military clothes, This is different from the past military look that expressed masculine rigidity through simplifying the details and emphasizing the male body silhouette. Third, the military look produces a deconstruction image instead of just showing its intrinsic thoughts or symbolic message through combining design elements or symbolic details of the military look with other images, transforming and exaggerating the shapes, or mixing the time point of views reinterpreting the present or the future image.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.628-643
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• 2015

This study is to assist in developing creative designs based on the humor available in the fashion world of Moschino. For the research method, this writing examined literature on humor and Moschino's fashion world and analyzed Moschino's fashion collection, show window, Maison Moschino, and collaborative products to conduct an empirical analysis of humor shown to the fashion media. The research results are as follows. The humor in Moschino's fashion appeared in the form of surrealistic humor with the depaysement technique, deconstructive wit in clothing, such as distortion, change, or exaggeration, and textual humor, including brand symbols, logos, and graffiti. Collection pieces indicated the brand's confirmative identity based on humor with the surrealistic depaysement technique and deconstructive wit through irregular phenomena, such as change, distortion, exaggeration, and illusion in clothing form. Additionally, such attributes added to Moschino's wit and humor in decorative costume components as graphic images, graffiti, and brand symbols, including smile, love, and reversal. The show window display delivered surprises and smiles through the production of surrealistic space borrowed from various objects. In particular, performance with surrealistic images helped to show the characteristics of parodic humor. Maison Moschino was a surrealistic space for the concept of the fairy tale and for practical experience, thus working as a communication channel for humor and emotion. Collaborative products also clearly reflected the identity of the designer's own humor, which showed scarcity value as well as differentiation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.40
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• pp.137-147
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• 1998

Fahion as the form construction of decon-structivistic architecture was analyzed by dividing it into the intrinsic aspect and the formal aspect through an introduction of three characteristic architectural principles into fashion. Intrinsic deconstructivistic fashion as the construction of architectural form has the mixurte of genders both in a form of transvestic and in a form of genderless look as dualism, and can be characterized by pluralistic nationlism with the emergence of the Third World alienated from the international society, and so forth. Difference and the prefixes of dis-and de- are schizophrenic mystic illusionism, chance effect and the differance of space and time and is supporting Jacques Derrida's chiasmus that is the perspective of collage in painting and the multiple observation of collage in painting and the multiple observation point as the play of borrowing the surrealistic technique. The formal construction of deconstructivistic fashion the construction of architectural form has intertextuality material, hybridization of items and the blending of modes and another sphere. Trace as icon deconstrucion attains historical analysis. Dis and de in fashion are showing the retrogre-ssion of gravity through decomposition, decon-tinuity and disjunction emerge nonstructural silho-uette, juxtaposition, inversion and replace- ment of underwear and outer garments. Their decentring expression emerged as construction through mixture and repetition as well as overlapping of planes or spaces. And their disjuctive representation appeared in the form of mutual juxtaposition and substitution with the double-side of formal construction in functional terms.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.71-85
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• 2003

In the turn of the century, fashion designers have not just drawn upon one or two subcultural styles but have extracted elements from many subcultures to use in a single collection. In true postmodern style these are freely combined with historical, cross-cultural and futuristic influences to create new fashions. The process could be explained by bubble-up phenomenon, retroism. pastiche and pursuit of pleasure. In the course of illustrating subcultural styles transformed into mainstream fashion, the case of Punk was studied as a turning point of modernist and postmodern period which have been introduced by high fashion designers since the birth in 1976. The following cases have continued to appear entering upon the third millennium and the aesthetic value of those can be summarized as ambiguity, eclecticism, and deconstruction. In other words. the energy and authenticity of Punk has been considered to be desirable in high fashion, however designers focus on clothing and adornment rather than ideology and lifestyle. The aesthetic property of subcultural style defeats the established notion of standardized fashion and stimulates new consciousness. which allows a room to be diversified and subdivided.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50
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• pp.69-84
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• 2000

Th purpose of this study is three folds: to analyze postmodern fashion through the notion of pastiche to enhance an understanding of uncertain and confused situation in the late 1990s and to suggest a way of approach to creativity and originality in recent fashion design. The results can be summarized as follows: 1. Pastiche is an art work that borrows some parts of other artists authentic works and recombines them thus imitating their style technique or motifs selfconciously. 2. Pastiche is based onthe Deconstruction theory: the end of art as a result of deconstruction of the subject the collapse of the meaning the loss of history: the late Capitalism in which reality becomes chage into images or simulacre. 3. Pastiche represented by the death of author which means the exhaustion of creativity is shown in the fashion borrowing subculture styles and art works or religious images. Pastiche fashion which is equal to the play of signifiers floated as image is shown as graffiti and objects Time and space pastiche fashion can be explained by historical eclectism and ethnic looks, Finally pastiche means not the fixed aspect but the open concept of indeterminate condition which includes " anything goes" through the coesistence of various style in pastiche fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.107
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• pp.85-100
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• 2006

Fashion related with architectural paradigms includes concept of the space utilization beyond fashions field. Such a fashions concept is able to enlarge as a spatial system like architecture. Interface between fashion and architecture is originated in thinking of the rhizome, which understands fashions field within various relationships between environment of the city and fashion. The existing construction systems of fashion is not sufficient in fashions roles as the space that wearing changing body continuously. Consequently, accommodation of architectural paradigms in fashion depends on new recognition about function and space. Architectural paradigms expressed in fashion since 1990s was classified as follows: 1 modular system of Le Corbusier & Archigram, 2 deconstruction, 3 reconstruction, 4 nomadic architecture. Such a paradigms has been easy to combination among fashion and architecture and furniture. Deconstruction and reconstruction fashion revealed process toward completion, and reappeared architectural consideration about process of change toward incompletion. There are acknowledged formative characteristics as follows: mobility, changeability, multi-function, mutual combinative, openness, and fluidity. This study shows that fashion is essential device determined city environment construction in 21C, and revels that fashion has been highlighted as a presage of new spatial economy received architectural construction systems.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.9_10 s.157
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• pp.1476-1484
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• 2006

This study is on the esthetic characteristics of Tuxedo-Look in the modern women fashion from 1990s to the present. It could contribute to understand the aspects and the sense of beauty of the modern fashion. This study is performed by reviewing the precedent studies, related literature and deploying fashion portfolios, domestic and international fashion magazines for the exploratory study. The results of the study are the following. First, Tuxedo-Look expresses the androgenous image which weakens the superficial message of masculinity or femininity and produces the unified image of men and women. Tuxedo-Look, a symbolic male dress item, is brought in the women clothes and it is recreated by design modification, new wearing style, and producing effects. Second, Tuxedo-Look emphasizes femininity by using a exposure and body line stressed design and matching the women dress items with various materials and colors or tuxedo. Third, Tuxedo-Look suggests a dismantling point of view such as exaggeration, distortion, secession, and breaking from the convention. Tuxedo-Look expresses uncertain value by breaking up the symbolic valueby coordinating with casual items and denies formal construct of tuxedo such as perfect balance, symmetrical silhouette, formality, totality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.597-605
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• 2010

This study is about the expression types and characteristics of Trompe l'oeil in modern fashion. The study defines the concept of Trompe l'oeil, examines the Trompe l'oeil in the surrealist works from which the Trompe l'oeil derives from, and analyzes the works that have emerged since 2000. The study used a collection of magazines such as Vogue, Gap, Fashion News, and the Internet. According to the findings, the expression types of Trompe l'oeil in modern fashion were seen in the human body, the wearing style, the details, and accessory effects of clothes. The modern fashion design using the Trompe l'oeil based on such external expressions was characterized by the following: first, the fashion design destroyed the concept of common sense and expressed the purity of the human spirit by revealing the human body hidden in clothes from the combination of clothes and the human body with surrealism. Second, the details or accessories of clothes were printed or painted as if they existed. Pleasure was expressed by applying Trompe l'oeil to the wearing methods and forms of clothes through the optical illusion of materials or colors. Third, the effects of an optical illusion were displayed by transforming and distorting the wearing style and reversing the front, back, exterior and interior of clothes; this optical illusion characterized the deconstruction expressed through the transformation of ideas.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.8 s.99
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• pp.1-14
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• 2005

This study aims to find out how the deconstruction and combination of genres is being carried out in modern art and design, to look at the role of art and fashion in modern culture through a study of genre hybrid tendencies in fashion, and to reposition fashion as a tool that sensitively reflects changes in society and culture. The heightening of deconstructionism, gadgets, high technology which provide a background for the fall of all art and design styles and genres and the overlap and diffusion of different styles, is the fundamental reason behind genre hybrid. In the genre hybrids of fashion, the four characteristics of nomadism, amusement, wearability and noticeability were especially strong. As a result of studying the genre hybrids in modern fashion, I found out that the idea of wearing in fashion was made easier with the deconstruction and combination of fashion with different genres. It was also apparent that the genre hybrid phenomenon will continue in the future due to the continuous development of technology.

• Archives of design research
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.25-33
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• 1998

A Study on the Plasticity of the Gather Represented in Haute Couture The Gather is the plastic technique to represent a sense of voluminosity by pleating the plane of costume and manifests the emotional effects , such as both functional aspects and the construction of form, optical illusion effect, textural feelings from materials, tactile transformations, etc. So it is used as the tool to represent the plastistic beauty of costume. The plasticity of the ancient gather was the drape arising according to the curve of the body, but the type of gather recently found on the haute couture does not only retain the activity and functionalism on which the technical element and the ornamental aspect are mixed with other techiques.