• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
• /
• v.2 no.1
• /
• pp.36-45
• /
• 1988

해양에서 바람에 의해 생성된 파도를 예측하는 모델을 제시하고 이 모델에 대한 개략적인 설명과 아울러 분류에 의한 기존 모델들을 소개하고 마지막으로 이 모델을 유한폭의 해양에 대하여 적용한 결과를 기존의 다른 모델들과 비교하였다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.21 no.1
• /
• pp.79-90
• /
• 2009

This paper presents the development of dynamically combined Typhoon generated surge-tide-wave numerical model which is applicable from deep to shallow water. The dynamically coupled model consists of hydrodynamic module and wind wave module. The hydrodynamic module is modified from POM and wind wave module is modified from WAM to be applicable from deep to shallow water. Hydrodynamic module computes tidal currents, sea surface elevations and storm surges and provide these information to wind wave module. Wind wave mudule computes wind waves and provides computed information such as radiation stress, sea surface roughness and shear stress due to winds. The newly developed model was applied to compute the surge, tide and wave fields by typhoon Maemi. Verification of model performance was made by comparison of measured waves and tide data with simulated results.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.17 no.2
• /
• pp.86-97
• /
• 2005

Accurate estimation of the wave-induced pore water pressure in the seabed is key factor in studying the stability of the seabed in the vicinity of coastal structure. Most of the existing numerical models for wave structure seabed interaction have been linked through applying hybrid numerical technique which is analysis method separating the wave field and seabed regime. Therefore, it is necessary to develope a numerical model f3r simulating accurately wave$\cdot$structure$\cdot$ seabed interaction under wave loadings by the single domain approach for wave field and seabed regime together. In this study, direct numerical simulation is newly proposed. In this model, modeled fluid drag has been used to detect the hydraulic properties according to the varied geometrical shape inside the porous media by considering the turbulence resistance as well as laminar resistance. Contrary to hybrid numerical technique, direct numerical simulation avoids the explicit formulation of the boundary conditions at the fluid/porous media interface. A good agreement has been obtained by the comparison between existed experimental results by hydraulic model test and direct numerical simulation results far wave $\cdot$structure$\cdot$seabed interaction. Therefore, the newly proposed numerical model is a powerful tool for estimating the nonlinear dynamic responses among a structure, its seabed foundation and water waves.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.24 no.5
• /
• pp.343-351
• /
• 2012

In this study, shallow-water design waves are calculated for the return period of 10, 20, 30, and 50 years, based on the extreme value analysis of the wave measurement data at Gangneung beach. These values are compared with the results of SWAN simulation with the boundary condition of the deep-water design waves of the corresponding return periods at the Gangneung sea area provided by the Fisheries Agency (FA, 1988) and Korea Ocean Research & Development Institute (KORDI, 2005). It is found that the shallow-water wave heights at Gangneung beach calculated by the deep-water design waves were significantly less than the observation data. As the return period becomes higher, the significant wave heights obtained by the extreme value analysis becomes higher than those computed by SWAN with the deep-water design waves of the corresponding return periods. KORDI computed the hindcast wave data from January 2004 to August 2008 by WAM with a finer-grid mesh system than those of previous studies. Comparisons of the wave hindcast results with the wave observation show that the reproducibility of the winter-season storm wave was considerably improved compared to the hindcast data from 1979 to 2003. Hereafter, it is necessary to carry out hindcast wave data for the years before 2004 using WAM with the finer-grid mesh system and to supplement the deep-water design wave.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.19 no.5
• /
• pp.484-491
• /
• 2007

Numerical experiments using a numerical wave tank have been performed to verier the nonlinear interaction between monochromatic waves and a submerged horizontal plate. As a model for numerical wave tank, we used a higher-order Boundary Element Method(BEM) based on fully nonlinear potential flow theory and CADMAS-SURF for solving Navier Stokes equations and exact free surface conditions. Both nonlinear models are able to predict the higher harmonic generation in the shallow water region over a submerged horizontal plate. CADMAS-SURF, which involves the viscous effect, can evaluate the higher harmonic generation by flow separation and vortices at the each ends of plate. The comparison of reflection and transmission coefficients with experimental results(Patarapanich and Cheong, 1989) at different lengths and submergence depths of a horizontal plate are presented with a good agreement. It is found that the transfer of energy from the incident fundamental waves to higher harmonics becomes larger as the submergence depth ratio decreases and the length ratio increases.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.21 no.1
• /
• pp.30-38
• /
• 2009

In recent years, there's been strong demand for coastal structures that have a permeability that serves water affinity and disaster prevention from wave attack. The aim of this study is to examine the wave transformation, including wave run-up that propagates over the coastal structures with a steep slope. A numerical model based on the nonlinear shallow water equation, together with the unsteady nonlinear Darcy law for fluid motion in permeable underlayer and laboratory measurements was carried out in terms of the free surface elevations and fluid particle velocities for the cases of regular and irregular waves over 1:5 impermeable and permeable slopes. The numerical results were used to evaluate the application and limitations of the PBREAK numerical model. The numerical model could predict the cross-shore variation of the wave profile reasonably, but showed less accurate results in the breaking zone that the mass and momentum influx is exchanged the most. Except near the wave crest, the computed depth averaged velocities could represent the measured profile below the trough level fairly well.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.30 no.6
• /
• pp.270-285
• /
• 2018

The behavior of wave-induced pore water pressure inside the rubble mound and seabed, and the resultant structure failure are investigated, which are used in design of the composite breakwater representing the coastal and harbor structures. Numerical simulation techniques have been widely used to assess these behaviors through linear and nonlinear methods in many researches. While the combination of strongly nonlinear analytical method and turbulence model have not been applied yet, which can simulate these characteristics more accurately. In this study, olaFlow model considering the wave-breaking and turbulent phenomena is applied through VOF and LES methods, which gives more exact solution by using the multiphase flow analytical method. The verification of olaFlow model is demonstrated by comparing the experimental and numerical results for the interactions of regular waves-seabed and regular waves-composite breakwater-seabed. The characteristics of the spatial distributions of horizontal wave pressure, excess-pore-water pressure, mean flow velocity and mean vorticity on the upright caisson, and inside the rubble mound and seabed are discussed, as well as the relation between the mean distribution of vorticity size and mean turbulent kinetic energy. And the stability of composite breakwater are also discussed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.19 no.1
• /
• pp.57-65
• /
• 2007

Shallow water waves are hindcasted from sea wind fields, which include wave transformations such as shoaling, refraction, diffraction, reflection and wave breaking. In case of estimating sea wind field in shallow water, the sea wind revised from free wind obtained by the typhoon model is widely used. However, this method is not able to consider the effect of land topography on the wind field, which will be important factor for shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting. In this study, therefore, the effect of land topography on sea wind field in shallow water is investigated for shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting with high accuracy. The 3-D MASCON model is introduced to consider the influence of land topography on the wind field. And, for two areas divided by the topographical characteristics, i.e. shielded and opened coastal areas, sea wind field is examined by comparison between initial wind field by typhoon model and modified wind field by 3-D MASCON model. Finally, applying these sea wind fields to SWAN model, the results of shallow water wave calculated in shielded and opened coastal areas are compared, and, also, the effect of MASCON model on shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting is discussed.

• Journal of Advanced Marine Engineering and Technology
• /
• v.36 no.5
• /
• pp.635-644
• /
• 2012

In order to design a wave energy generating system, a 6-DOF analysis technique is applied to the three-Dimensional CFD analysis on of a floating body and the behavior is interpreted according to the nature of the incoming wave. A wave period of 5.5s & amplitude of 0.57m from Marado is chosen. 12 case of natural pitching period from 1.25 to 2.8s has been modeled. The relation between tuning factor & pitch angle for the waves generated is compared to analyze the effects of energy absorption variables, namely mass moment of inertia, angular velocity and angular acceleration. From the results obtained, we conclude that model L is the maximum power absorbed, 6kW approximately. A maximum pitch angle of 1.91 degree was attained by Model F, and the maximum displacement of nearly 0.7m was attained by Model L among models D, F and L.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.32 no.5
• /
• pp.340-350
• /
• 2020

A rapid refresh wave forecasting system has been developed using the sea wind on the Korea Local Analysis and Prediction System. We carried out a numerical experiment for wind-wave interaction as an important parameter in determining the forecasting performance. The simulation results based on the seasons of with typhoon and without typhoon has been compared with the observation of the ocean data buoy to verify the forecasting performance. In case of without typhoon, there was an underestimate of overall forecasting tendency, and it confirmed that an increase in the wind-wave interaction parameter leads to a decrease in the underestimate tendency and root mean square error (RMSE). As a result of typhoon season by applying the experiment condition with minimum RMSE on without typhoon, the forecasting error has increased in comparison with the result without typhoon season. It means that the wave model has considered the influence of the wind forcing on a relatively weak period on without typhoon, therefore, it might be that the wave model has not sufficiently reflected the nonlinear effect and the wave energy dissipation due to the strong wind forcing.