• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.446-457
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• 2020

Crescentic sand bar in the coastal zone of eastern Korea is a common morphological feature and the rhythmic patterns exist constantly except for high wave energy events. However, four consecutive typhoons that directly and indirectly affected the East Sea of Korea from September to October in 2019 impacted the formation of longshore uniform sand bar and overall shoreline retreats (approx. 2 m) although repetitive erosion and accretion patterns exist near the shoreline. Widely used XBeach to predict storm erosions in the beach is utilized to investigate the morphological response to a series of storms and each storm impact (NE-E wave incidence). Several calibration processes for improved XBeach modeling are conducted by recently reported calibration methods and the optimal calibration set obtained is applied to the numerical simulation. Using observed wave, tide, and pre & post-storm bathymetries data with optimal calibration set for XBeach input, XBeach successfully reproduces erosion and accretion patterns near MSL (BSS = 0.77 (Erosion profile), 0.87 (Accretion profile)) and observed the formation of the longshore uniform sandbar. As a result of analysis of simulated total sediment transport vectors and bed level changes at each storm peak Hs, the incident wave direction contributes considerable impact to the behavior of crescentic sandbar. Moreover, not only the wave height but also storm duration affects the magnitude of the sediment transport. However, model results suggest that additional calibration processes are needed to predict the exact crest position of bar and bed level changes across the inner surfzone.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.148-156
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• 2002

The coastline of Hampyung Bay, southwestern coast of Korea, was examined and measured in the field for the understanding of geomorphic changes and sea-cliff erosion processes. The Hampyung-Bay coastline is characterized by steep-face slope and soft soil and/or intensively weathered rock composition. Saw teeth-shaped coastline, and relict weathered basement-rock and "Island Stack" exposed on the beach surface are peculiar geomorphic features indicating active sea-cliff erosion. The coastline in the study area is continuously retreating with the following cyclic process: erosion of cliff base, gravitational landslide or mass wasting, formation of talus, and then erosion and removal of talus. In this study, sea-level rise during summer in the west coast of Korea is suggested as one of the key factors fur the removal of soil taluses and, thereby, accelerating sea-cliff erosion.f erosion.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.73-78
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• 2010

Wave energy is dissipated mainly by friction on the seabed until the waves reach the surf zone. Many researchers have investigated the mechanism of wave friction and the bottom shear stress induced by wave motion at a certain point is now well estimated by introducing the wave friction factor related to the near bed velocity given by linear wave theory. The variation of wave energy or wave height over a long distance can be, however, estimated by an iteration process when the propagation of waves is strongly influenced by bed friction. In the present study simple semi-theoretical equation has been developed to compute the variation of wave height for the condition of wave propagation on a constant beach slope. The ratio of wave height is determined by the product of shoalng factor and wave height friction factor (frictional wave energy dissipation factor). The wave height estimated by the new equation is compared with the wave height estimated by the solution of numerical integration for the condition that the waves propagate on a constant slope.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2016.05a
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• pp.32-32
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• 2016

정부는 1999년 제정된 연안관리법에 따라 2000년부터 시행 중인 '연안정비계획' 등을 통하여 연안 침식 대응사업을 지원하고 있다. 그러나 연안의 개발은 지속적으로 일어나고 있으며 그 중 동해항 3단계 북방파제 축조공사가 내년 3월 중으로 착공할 것으로 예상된다. 동해항 3단계 개발사업은 동해항을 환동해권 물류 중심 거점 항만으로 육성하기 위해, 오는 2020년까지 대규모 항만개발과 방파제 등이 축조될 예정이다. 이에 따라 본 연구에서는 동해항 3단계 개발사업의 추진에 따른 인근해변의 해안침식 저감대책 방안으로 해안선 및 수심 변화를 예측하고자 한다. 동해항 인근의 추암 해수욕장부터 삼척 해수욕장까지 대상지역 N-line 모델 적용 및 Case분석을 실시한다. 해안선 변화는 Polar coordinate에서 개발된 One-line 모델에 회절 효과를 반영하고 해빈 경사와 쇄파고에 따라 횡단 방향으로 발생하는 표사로 인한 추가적인 해안선 변화 효과를 반영하여 입사파고 변동에 따른 단기적인 해안선 변화의 변동 폭을 제공한다. 연평균 입사 파고에 따라 형성되는 연안방향 표사로부터 해안선이 변동하며 이 해안선을 기준으로 연평균 파고에 따른 전진 폭과 최고 파고에 따른 침식 폭을 제시한다. 동해항 개발 전 변화 예측 모델링과 동해항 개발 후 변화 예측 모델링을 통해 개발에 따른 장래 해안선의 변화 예측 모델링 결과 분석 및 검토를 실시, 동해항 인근 지역에 적합한 해안선 유지관리 방법 결정 및 제안을 하는데 도움을 줄 것이라 기대된다.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.44 no.6
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• pp.611-628
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• 2023

This study aimed to explore the geo-educational value of Deokmyeong-ri in Goseong-gun, Gyeongsangnamdo, through field research. The study area comprises well-exposed outcrops, which can be used as field sites during field trip for studying sedimentary structures (normal grading bedding, cross bedding, ripple, and desiccation crack), coastal depositional environments (coastal cliff, shore platform, and gravel beach), basic principles of relative dating (unconformity, fault, intrusion, and xenolith), and columnar joints. This study evaluated the field sites based on the achievement standards and textbooks used in the science curriculum. The field sites have a high educational value because they exhibit typicality, as mentioned in the textbook, and provide study materials for enrichment learning. Furthermore, Deokmyeong-ri Area has well-developed tourist and educational infrastructures; thus, it is a safe place for geological education.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.35 no.6
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• pp.164-172
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• 2023

The grain size distribution of sand provides crucial information for understanding coastal erosion and sediment deposition. The commonly used sieve analysis for grain size distribution analysis has limitations such as time-consuming processes and the inability to obtain information about individual particle shapes and colors. In this study, we propose a grain size distribution analysis method using smartphone digital images, which is simpler and more efficient than the sieve analysis method. During the image analysis process, we effectively detect particles from relatively low-resolution smartphone digital images by extracting particle boundaries through image gradient calculation. Using samples collected from four beaches in Gyeongsangbuk-do, we compare and validate the proposed boundary extraction image analysis method with the analysis method that does not extract boundaries, against sieve analysis results. The proposed method shows an average error rate of 8.21% at D₅₀, exhibiting a 65% lower error compared to the method without boundary extraction. Therefore, grain size distribution analysis using smartphone digital images is convenient, efficient, and demonstrated accuracy comparable to sieve analysis.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.55-68
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• 2020

In order to investigate the hydraulic characteristics of a boundary layer streaming over the beach cusps appeared in swells prevailing mild seas, we numerically simulated the shoaling process of Edge waves over the beach cusp. Synchronous Edge waves known to sustain the beach cusps could successfully be duplicated by generating two obliquely colliding Edge waves in front of beach cusps. The amplitude A_B and length L_B of Beach Cusp were elected to be 1.25 m and 18 m, respectively based on the measured data along the Mang-Bang beach. Numerical results show that boundary layer streaming was formed at every phase of shoaling process without exception, and the maximum boundary layer streaming was observed to occur at the crest of sand bar. In RUN 1 where the shortest waves were deployed, the maximum boundary layer streaming was observed to be around 0.32 m/s, which far exceeds the amplitude of free stream by two times. It is also noted that the maximum boundary layer streaming mentioned above greatly differs from the analytical solution by Longuet-Higgins (1957) based on wave Reynolds stress. In doing so, we also identify the recovery procedure of natural beaches in swells prevailing mild seas, which can be summarized such as: as the infra-gravity waves formed in swells by the resonance wave-wave interaction arrives near the breaking line, the sediments ascending near the free surface by the Phase II waves orbital motion were carried toward the pinnacle of foreshore by the shoreward flow commenced at the steep front of breaking waves, and were deposited near the pinnacle of foreshore due to the infiltration.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.28 no.1B
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• pp.95-109
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• 2008

We numerically analyzed the nonlinear shoaling, a plunging breaker and its accompanying energetic suspension of sediment at a bed, and a redistribution of suspended sediments by a down rush of preceding waves and the following plunger using SPH with a Gaussian kernel function, Lagrangian Dynamic Smagorinsky model (LDS), Van Rijn's pick up function. In that process, we came to the conclusion that the conventional model for the tractive force at a bottom like a quadratic law can not accurately describe the rapidly accelerating flow over a swash zone, and propose new methodology to accurately estimate the bottom tractive force. Using newly proposed wave model in this study, we can successfully duplicate severely deformed water surface profile, free falling water particles, a queuing splash after the landing of water particles on the free surface and a wave finger due to the structured vortex on a rear side of wave crest (Narayanaswamy and Dalrymple, 2002), a circulation of suspended sediments over a swash zone, net transfer of sediments clouds suspended over a swash zone toward the offshore, which so far have been regarded very difficult features to mimic in the computational fluid mechanics.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.28-39
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• 2019

In the design process of counter measures against the beach erosion, information like the main sediment transport mode and yearly net amount of longshore and cross shore transport is of great engineering value. In this rationale, we numerically analyzed the yearly sediment budget of the Mang-Bang beach which is suffering from erosion problem. For the case of cross sediment transport, Bailard's model (1981) having its roots on the Bagnold's energy model (1963) is utilized. In doing so, longshore sediment transport rate is estimated based on the assumption that longshore transport rate is determined by the available wave energy influx toward the beach. Velocity moments required for the application of Bailard's model (1981) is deduced from numerical simulation of the nonlinear shoaling process over the Mang-Bang beach of the 71 wave conditions carefully chosen from the wave records. As a wave driver, we used the consistent frequency Boussinesq Eq. by Frelich and Guza (1984). Numerical results show that contrary to the Bailard's study (1981), Irribaren NO. has non negligible influence on the velocity moments. We also proceeds to numerically simulate the yearly sediment budget of Mang-Bang beach. Numerical results show that for ${\beta}=41.6^{\circ}$, the mean orientation of Mang-Bang beach, north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing over the south-eastwardly moving sediment, the yearly amount of which is simulated to reach its maxima at $125,000m^3/m$. And the null pint where north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is balanced by the south-eastwardly moving longshore sediment is located at ${\beta}=47^{\circ}$. For the case of cross shore sediment, the sediment is gradually moving toward the shore from the April to mid October, whereas these trends are reversed by sporadically occurring energetic wind waves at the end of October and March. We also complete the littoral drift rose of the Mang-Bang beach, which shows that even though the shore line is temporarily retreated, and as a result, the orientation of Mang-Bang beach is larger than the orientation of null pont, south-eastwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing. In a case that the orientation of Mang-Bang beach is smaller than the orientation of null pont, north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing. And these trend imply that the Mang-Bang beach is stable one, which has the self restoring capability once exposed to erosion.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.409-422
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• 2019

In this study, we carried out the 3D numerical simulation to investigate the hydraulic characteristics of Synchronous Edge wave known as the driving mechanism of beach cusp using the Tool Box called the ihFoam that has its roots on the OpenFoam. As a wave driver, RANS (Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes equation) and mass conservation equation are used. In doing so, we materialized short-crested waves known as the prerequisite for the formation of Synchronous Edge waves by generating two obliquely colliding Cnoidal waves. Numerical results show that as can be expected, flow velocity along the cross section where waves are focused are simulated to be much faster than the one along the cross section where waves are diverged. It is also shown that along the cross section where waves are focused, up-rush is moving much faster than its associated back-wash, but a duration period of up-rush is shortened, which complies the typical characteristics of nonlinear waves. On the other hand, due to the water-merging effect triggered by the redirected flow toward wave-diverging area at the pinacle of run-up, along the cross section where waves are diverged, offshore-ward velocity is larger than shore-ward velocity at the vicinity of shore-line, while at the very middle of shoaling process, the asymmetry of flow velocity leaned toward the shore is noticeably weakened. Considering that these flow characteristics can be found without exception in Synchronous Edge waves, the numerical simulation can be regarded to be successfully implemented. In doing so, new insight about how the boundary layer streaming occur are also developed.