• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.62-75
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• 2020

In this study, clothing items recorded in Nappyemulmok (納幣物目) and Ugwimulmok (于歸物目) in the early 20th century were examined. These clothing items were recorded on the lists of goods for wedding gifts from the 1910s to the 1930s. A large quantity of these lists were organized into eight categories by analyzing the fabrics of each item of clothing. Representative fabrics used for skirts and Jeogori (such as Myeongju, 明紬) were used widely. Jeoksam was mostly made with ramie fabric. Pants mostly used cotton such as Dangmok, Mumyung, and calico, with some use of silk. Gojaengi mostly used cotton such as Dangmok, Mumyung, and calico, with some use of ramie. Danui (單衣) used silk fabrics such Pparinseu, Myeongju, and Gyoju for decorative features that were revealed when rolled up. Naeui (內衣) is believed to be the closest underclothes to the body, and Mumyung was mostly used. Dangmok and calico were used for the Yodae (腰帶) and fabrics such as silk, Nobangju, and JuhangNa were used for outdoor use. This type of categorization is significant, as it can be used as academic evidence to verify and reproduce the clothing of the time by identifying fabrics, colors, and characteristics of certain items of clothing. Lastly, it is expected that the analysis of clothing will provide theoretical data in the same way that movies, dramas, and museum exhibitions feature modern traditional weddings.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.31
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• pp.101-118
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• 1997

This research was carried out to sublimate our design with common sence so that the de-sign concept with our traditional chara-teristics can be acceptable in the world design area through re-creation works of tradition to be adoptable to modern concept. Form this survey the following could be derived. 1. in Korea designers should concern about the ration of skirt to jacket plait of Chima and string Koreum of hanbok. however they should pay more attention to string and color stripes to attract foreign customers in international market. It was found that koreans prefer the elegant and cur-vaceous design while foreigners demend edecor-ative design of Hanbok in addition to its el-egance and curvaeouseness. 2. It was also found that korean ramie fabric might be the most popular material for hanbok in Korea however silk and fine gauze might have to be used in international market. Generally it would be better to use the materials with natural and delicate feelings in Korea while the materials with gorgeous feel-ing in addition to natural and delicate feeling should be used in international market. 3, For the figures on Hanbok the embroidery figures and pictorial figures would be appropri-ate in Korea while it is necessary to develop the design with embroidery figures and gold foiled figures to satisfy the foreign customers. Accordignly it 8is required to develop the designers with figures with more elegant and gorgeous sence in both Korea and the world area.

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.1-17
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• 2011

We investigated youth's awareness of traditional clothing culture in order to promote it, and we developed and applied the Teaching-Learning process related to clothing life chapters. We analyzed 12 types of high school freshman textbooks under the revised $7^{th}$ national curriculum and selected 5 major subjects of learning 'traditional culture', 'History of Han-bok', 'colors of Han-bok', 'pattern & material of Han-bok', 'globalization of Han-bok' related to 'change of home life & culture' chapter. Also we developed 5-period Teaching-Learning Lesson Plan and 48-teaching materials(22 for students, 22 - for classes, 4 for teachers) and applied it to usual classes. The mean score of youth's awareness of traditional clothing culture in the post-test was significantly higher than in the pre-test. We concluded it was highly efficient in the youth's awareness of traditional clothing culture as right awareness about traditional clothing life culture, acceptance of foreign culture, positive attitude in traditional culture. Awareness about traditional clothing culture education was improved significantly, so we recognized importance of traditional culture education through it. We suggest that various themes on traditional culture should be developed and more reinforced. Also we need various traditional culture succession research as field of food life, house life and study Korea's cultural heritage.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.83-90
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• 2023

The recent trend in younger generations of wearing traditional costumes or incorporating fusion hanbok into daily wear necessitates the development of modern hair accessories to complement hanbok. The purpose of this study is to develop practical and modern hair accessory designs inspired by royal women's hair ornaments that complement hanbok, and therefore expand the scope of fashion content development utilizing hanbok culture as well as meeting the demand for various experiences of traditional culture. This research studied the literature on traditional hairstyles and accessories of Queen Yeong and constructed models of these accessories for the purpose of empirical research. The production process first required creating a basic foundation of nylon mesh reflecting the silhouette of a traditional hairstyle, and then grafting a digital textile printed fabric using majestic and extravagant royal relics on top, thus employing the trompe l'oeil technique to ultimately give the impression of wearing traditional jewelry. As a result, a total of six hair accessory designs were completed, produced with hairbands, hair pins, and hair ties. In addition, the accessories are designed to be easily worn regardless of the wearer's hair style, and the stiff yet flexible nylon mesh effectively expresses the shape of a voluminous hairstyle and creates an optical illusion, blending into the hair. These research results present a unique aesthetic and cultural experience to the greater public seeking both daily entertainment and value from rarity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.2
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• pp.126-134
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• 2014

This study studied female Hanbok that appeared in Korean movies in different periods, and investigated the changes and flow of the Hanbok in the movies based on the design and the form. Research scope is limited to Hanbok in Korean movies released between 1950' and 1980', and in order to study Hanbok in movies, snapshots of Korean movies for each period are used. Pictures are sourced from the Korean movie database, and forms and colors of Hanbok in the pictures are classified into 7 categories. Based on this, characteristics, changes and flow of Hanbok for each period are studied. Based on this, by investigating the Hanbok in Korean movies from silhouette and design perspectives and comparing each period, it is found that the following changes have been made: From 1950' to 1980', generally Min Jeogori (Normal Korean traditional jacket) had a higher rate. Up to early 1960', wide collar and collar strip were trends, but from 70' to 80', they have been remarkably narrowed. After liberation, ease and functional elements of western clothing were accepted. From 1950' to 80', generally wide and round shape sleeve were used. Also, from 50' to 80', normally skirt and Jeogori had the same color and fabric. Lastly. as Hanbok with western style fabric, rather than traditional Hanbok fabric was increasing, Hanbok with variously patterned fabric was shown. The lack of colored pictures led of limited research materials, and so a more accurate and sophisticated research on material and design was not possible, However, it is meaningful that this study has investigated changes and flow of Hanbok in modern Korean movies.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.149-162
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to suggest various directions of living hanbok and proposed the living hanbok design that integrated the tradition and the contemporary, as well as the past and present with denim material that represents the youth cultureby while using the motif of Korean Jogakbo. For the research method, the data on living hanbok, denim, and Jogakbo were surveyed to develop and produce a living hanbok design. The development of a living hanbok design emphasized the meaning of longing for an accumulation of good fortune, by using the concept of 'wishing for fortune' including the symbolic images of denim and Jogakbo. The production results of this study are as follows. First, the Jogakbo motif consisted of patterns yearning for harmony, great fortune, longevity, and many children, and the living hanbok design integrated with the denim material symbolized the convergence of the past and present and the harmony of eastern and western cultures. The study could verify that the living hanbok design was recreated in a contemporary sense to be used everyday by expressing contemporary senses in a traditional image. Second, leftover fabric pieces and recycled materials that can be abandoned by the material market were used for denim. This study could also develop the living hanbok design as a sustainable design through upcycling, an important social trend, puting an emphasis on carrying out socio-ethical responsibilities. Third, denim Jogakbo work, which is connected by small pieces of denim material, used to be a difficult and labor intensive handicraft, but it could be proposed as a new high value-added fashion and generate contemporary living hanbok with a new image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.6
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• pp.53-66
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• 2012

This study analyzed the fabrics of Chima, Jeogori of the 20th century. It was based on Kyungwoon Museum relics, newspaper articles and photographs. This research focused on the transition process that has been organized into three stages. The first stage is from the opening of a port to the colonial period in Korea. By this time, the casual wear Hanbok was made with the traditional cotton and woolen textiles in addition to quite a lot of upscale clothing textiles. Stage two is from 1970s to the period after the liberation and Western Costumes represent the time of when the suit was mixed. At the time of the war, due to social and economic difficulties, convenience and practicality were emphasized rather than focusing on aesthetic characteristics. Third period is from the 1980s to the 1990s when the Hanbok was no longer considered a casual wear. Instead, its high quality and elegance redefined it to be a formal wear.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.12
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• pp.1368-1373
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• 2003

본 연구에서는 견직물에 강경한 촉감을 부여하여 한복지 뿐만 아니라 현대의 패션경향에도 부합되는 소재를 개발하고자 하였다. 견직물에 강경성을 부여하기 위하여 의마가공용 폴리우레탄 수지를 이용하여 수지농도와 큐어링온도에 따른 수지부착율을 조사하였고, 여기에 수반되는 물리적 특성의 변화를 살펴보았다. 또한 가공된 견직물의 세탁에 대한 내구성도 살펴보아 동시에 실용가능성도 검토하였다. 이상의 연구를 통해 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 1. 의마가공용 폴리우레탄 수지를 견직물에 처리할 경우 수지 농도가 증가할수록 수지 부착량이 증가하였다. 2. 열처리온도를 변화시켜 수지부착량의 변화를 살펴본 결과 열처리 온도가 증가할수록 수지의 부착량이 감소하여 본 실험에 사용된 수지의 적정 열처리 온도가 160-18$0^{\circ}C$인 것을 고려해 볼 때 견직물의 경우 17$0^{\circ}C$의 열처리 온도가 적절한 것으로 나타났다. 3. 수지 처리된 견직물의 역학적 특성치의 변화를 살펴본 결과 RT, EM, MIU값은 감소하는 경향을 가지며, LT, B, 2HB, G, 2HG, 2HG5값은 증가하는 경향을 나타내어 폴리우레탄 수지처리로 의마가공 효과를 갖는 견직물을 얻을 수 있었다. 4. 수지 처리된 견직물의 역학적 특성치는 물세탁 후에도 크게 변화가 없어 세탁에 대한 내구성을 지니고 있는 것으로 나타났다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.2
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• pp.88-101
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• 2011

This study emphasizes on the characteristics of the excavated fabrics from the tomb of Kimwhoak in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. All of 118 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the tomb of Kimwhoak. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 63 pieces of spun silk tabby(53.6%), 14 of spun yarn silk(11.9%), 13 of thin filament silk tabby(11.0%), 8 of thin silk tabby(6.8%), 4 of satin without pattern(3.4%), 3 of filament silk tabby(2.5%), 3 of twill without pattern(2.5%), 2 of satin damask(1.7%), 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton(1.7%), and 2 of ramie fabric(1.7%), 1 of simple gauze without pattern(0.8%), 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread(0.8), 1 of cotton(0.8%), 1 of etc(0.8%). Classified by ways of weaving: 106 pieces of plain weave(89%), 6 of satin weave(5%), 3 of twill weave (3%), 1 of gauze weave(1%), 1 of compound weave(1%) and etc(1%). In point of patterns, the most of textiles are without pattern, there are only two of them are patterned textile. such as lotus patterns with vine, peony patterns with vine. Their patterns are very similar to those of other tombs in the same age.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.68-75
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• 2008

Demands and attempts to express Korean traditional beauty are increasing. Some schools choose the uniform in designs expressing the image of Hanbok, but recently there is a few increment of wearing the uniforms. For the improvement of the uniforms, first of all, the shape and the clothing materials of the uniforms should be considered. We have compared and analyzed the shape and the clothing materials of the uniforms reflecting the image of Hanbok, according to seasons and clothing items. The uniforms reflecting the image of Hanbok were worn in eight schools and all of them are Saenghwal Hanbok style. The shape of Saenghwal Hanbok school uniforms showed both Korean style and western style characteristics. Korean style characteristics were expressed through the appearance-related parts while western style characteristics showed through the performance-related parts such as open/closure method, armhole pattern and straight sleeve line. It was shown that girls' uniforms are more diverse and similar to the western style uniforms than boys' uniforms. It was found that most of the clothing material were synthetic fiber or mixture of natural/synthetic fiber, and polyester was shown to be used most.