• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.47 no.1
• /
• pp.85-92
• /
• 2021

The stratum corneum is formed from keratinocytes and intercellular lipids, with ceramide as the main component of intercellular lipids. Ceramides are one of the important components of the intercellular lipids to form a lamellar structure, but they are insoluble and therefore are not suitable for direct application to the skin. Thus, it was intended to apply ceramide to the formulation of pluronic lecithin organogel (PLO gel), which received constant attention among drug delivery systems. A suitable oil for formulation was selected and a PLO gel containing ceramide was manufactured. Liquid crystal formation and variation were observed using polarized microscopes, and viscoelastic analysis was performed to find out the viscoelastic behavior of the PLO gel. Small-angle X-ray scattering (SAXS) and wide-angle X-ray scattering (WAXS) analysis were performed to confirm the structures in the formulation. Results showed that the size and stability of the liquid crystal differed depending on the content ratio of ceramide and lecithin in the PLO gel containing ceramide. Furthermore, viscoelastic analysis showed the stability of the formulation, and SAXS/WAXS analysis confirmed that the PLO gel without ceramide had hexagonal structure of the quadrilateral system array, and the PLO gel with ceramide had the lamellar structure of the quadrilateral system array.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.43 no.3
• /
• pp.223-230
• /
• 2017

In this study, we evaluated the skin moisturizing effect of Brasenia schreberi (B. schreberi) mucilage polysaccharide on human skin and in vitro and the potent cosmetic ingredient for skin. To protect skin from various environmental stresses and aging, we should increase moisture content of skin and prevent water loss. We have found that polysaccharides extracted from mucilage of B. schreberi improved the roughness of skin with its lubricating behavior. In vitro, the expression of transglutaminase 1 (TGM1) gene, which plays a role in cross-linking the skin barrier, was increased when the keratinocytes were treated with B. schreberi polysaccharides. In addition, the expression of hyaluronan synthase 3 (HAS3) gene, an enzyme that synthesizes water-binding matrix hyaluronic acid, aquaporin 3 (AQP3), which regulates the movement of water and glycerol were also increased. In addition, an experiment to evaluate its potential as a cosmetic ingredient has shown anti-inflammatory and collagen synthesis-promoting effects. As a result, the mucilaginous polysaccharide from natural products which has not existed before, showed moisturizing effect, anti-inflammation and collagen synthesis-promoting effects for skin protection and hydration.

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
• /
• v.26 no.1
• /
• pp.29-32
• /
• 1996

In vivo and in vitro skin permeation of $recombinant^{125}$ I-EGF through normal, stripped and the first degree burn skin were studied. The in vitro skin permeation rate through the first degree burn skin $(296\;cpm/cm^2/hr)$ and the stripped skin $(1131\;cpm/cm^2/hr)$ were 3.5 times and 13 times higher, respectively, as compared with the one through normal skin. In vivo absorption study with the first degree burn skin, the peak concentration of EGF in the skin was achieved at 1-3 hr and decreased afterward up to 8 hr with an elimination constant of $1.31{\times}10^{-3}\;g/ml/hr$. To investigate the higher elimination rate of EGF in burn skin, binding and metabolism studies were conducted. No significant metabolism of EGF in burn skin $(100^{\circ}C,\;5-second\;burning)$ was observed. With the presence or unlabelled-EGF $^{125}I-EGF$ permeation through the burn skin showed higher permeation rate than the one without unlabelled-EGF. The result nay indicate that EGF-receptor binding play a role in determining the skin permeation rate.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.21 no.2
• /
• pp.1-21
• /
• 1995

In this context, it should be mentioned that multilamellar vesicles can be prepared with the main compounds of the intercellular lipids, ceramides, cholesterol, cholesteryl ester, squalane, lecithin, wax ester by effect of the wetting. We investigated properties formation of MLV with use of the AHAsomes and Microfluidizer. The multilamellar vesicles are formed merely adding polyol and water phase, followed with the microfluidizer. Formation of a practically pure AHAsomes system, containing the active ingredients directly incorporated without need for preservatives. There were very good encapsulated properties of the active ingredients whether hydrophilic(malic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, allantoin, urea) and hydrophobic(vitamin-I acetate, vitamin-A palmitate). Optimum condition (ormatiom of MLV was passed three times in the microfluidizer, particle size of the vesicles should be within range 50-523nm (mean=163.5nm). As application, It was compared that horny layer of the sole of foots removal with the general OM emulsion and the AHAsomes cream. There was used for three months, those got recovery wrinkles about 151.8% and elasticity three times more the AHAsomes than O/W emulsions, It was confirmed with the Image Analyzer and the Cutometer.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
• /
• v.62 no.4
• /
• pp.339-345
• /
• 2019

The present study aims to investigate the potential applications of Aristotelia chilensis (A. chilensis) extracts as novel cosmetic materials. The total extracts of A. chilensis were partitioned into chloroform (CHCl₃), ethyl acetate (EtOAc), and distilled water (DW) fractions. A. chilensis extracts exhibited no cytotoxicity toward HaCaT human keratinocyte and B16F10 mouse melanoma cell lines. CHCl₃, EtOAc, and DW extracts reduced oxidative stress, and EtOAc extract was superior to glutathione, a natural human antioxidant positive control. The extracts of A. chilensis reduced melanin synthesis in cells treated with α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone. The extracts of A. chilensis exhibited antibacterial effects toward Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus), Staphylococcus epidermidis (S. epidermidis), and Pseudomonas aeruginosa (P. aeruginosa). In particular, the EtOAc extract was effective in terms of antibacterial activity against S. aureus. In the present study, we identified several potential applications of A. chilensis extracts in terms of novel antioxidant and whitening cosmetic materials as well as antibacterial preservatives.

• Journal of Life Science
• /
• v.28 no.4
• /
• pp.454-464
• /
• 2018

Black soybeans are used as food sources as well as for traditional medicines because they contain an abundance of natural phenolic compounds. In this study, total phenolic contents (TPCs) of Korean black seed coat soybean varieties Socheongja (SCJ), Socheong 2 (SC2) and Cheongja 2 (CJ2) as well as their antioxidant capacities were investigated. Among them, TPCs were abundantly present in the order of CJ2$H_2O_2$-stimulated HaCaT human keratinocytes. Our results revealed that treatment with SCJ and SC2 prior to $H_2O_2$ exposure significantly increases the viability of HaCaT cells, indicating that the exposure of HaCaT cells to SCJ and SC2 conferred a protective effect against oxidative stress. SCJ and SC2 also effectively inhibited $H_2O_2$-induced apoptotic cell death through the blocking of mitochondrial dysfunction. SCJ and SC2 also attenuated the phosphorylation of Histone H2AX. Furthermore, they effectively induced the levels of thioredoxin reductase (TrxR) 1, a potent antioxidant enzyme, which is associated with the induction of nuclear transcription factor erythroid-2-like factor 2 (Nrf2); however, the protective effects of SCJ and SC2 were significantly reversed by Auranofin, a TrxR inhibitor. These results indicate that they have protective activity through the blocking of cellular damage related to oxidative stress via the Nrf2 signaling pathway. In conclusion, our study indicated that SCJ and SC2 might potentially serve as novel agents for the treatment and prevention of skin disorders caused by oxidative stress.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.30 no.1
• /
• pp.79-83
• /
• 2004

In order to investigate the beneficial effects of parsely (Petroselinurn sativum) extract on skin, we measured the synthesis of total collagen and type I procollagen in cultured normal human fibroblast (NHF), the synthesis of prostaglandin E$_2$(PCE$_2$), interleukin 1 ${\alpha}$(IL -1 ${\alpha}$) and tumor necrosis factor ${\alpha}$ (TNF ${\alpha}$) in HaCaT cell and we also measured dermal thickness and density in hairless mouse (Female albino hairless mice, Skh:hr-1). As the results, the synthesis of total collagen and type I procollagen were increased 23％ and 18％ respectively, after 1 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL parsley extract treatment. The producions of PGE$_2$ induced by UVB irradiation were decreased 60％ after 1 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL parsley extract treatment. The treatment with 1 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL parsley extract also decreased the synthesis of IL -1 ${\alpha}$ and TNF ${\alpha}$ induced by 10 uM RA, 100 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL SLS and 30 mJ/$\textrm{cm}^2$ UVB irradiation, After 4 days treatment with 1％ parsley extract, the dermal thickness of hairless mouse was increased 1.5 times and the density of dermis was tighter than control. These results indicate that parsley extract have anti-aging and anti-irritation effects on skin.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.41 no.3
• /
• pp.243-252
• /
• 2015

Melanosome, the pigment granule in melanocyte, determines the color of skin when it moves into the keratinocyte. Inhibition of melanosome transfer from melanocyte to keratinocyte results in skin depigmentation. Protease activated receptor-2 (PAR-2) is involved in signal transduction systems via cell membrane and increases the melasome transfer when it is activated by cleavage of their extracellular amino acid sequence by trypsin or by a peptide such as SLIGKV. Here, we showed that lobaric acid inhibited PAR-2 activation and affected the mobilization of $Ca2^+$. The uptake of fluorescent microspheres and isolated melanosomes from melan-a melanocytes to keratinocytes induced by SLIGKV were inhibited by lobaric acid. Also, confocal microscopy studies illustrated a decreased melanosome transfer to keratinocytes in melanocyte-keratinocyte co-culture system by lobaric acid. In addition, lobaric acid induced visible skin lightening effect in human skin tissue culture model, melanoderm$^{(R)}$. Our data suggest that lobaric acid could be an effective skin lightening agent that works via regulation of phagocytic activity of keratinocytes.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.44 no.4
• /
• pp.389-397
• /
• 2018

The starfish, Asterina pectinifera Muller and Troschel (Asterinidae) is an indigenous species commonly found in all coasts of Korea causes damages to shellfish farms. In order to exterminate A. pectinifera, they are dried and used as fertilizer. Although various studies have been conducted to create high added value from the retrieved A. pectinifera, their actual utilization is relatively low. Accordingly, this study aimed to find new practical uses of starfish by identifying useful ingredients for skin anti-aging. Two polyhydroxysteroids and one asterosaponin were isolated from the A. pectinifera. The structures of these compounds were identified as $5{\alpha}$-cholestane-$3{\beta},6{\alpha},7{\alpha},8,15{\alpha},16{\beta},26$-heptol, $5{\alpha}$-cholestane-$3{\beta},4{\beta},6{\alpha},7{\alpha},8,15{\beta},16{\beta},2$6-octol, and asterosaponin $P_1$ on the basis of chemical and spectroscopic analysis. Among these compounds, we have found that asterosaponin $P_1$ increased epidermal stem cell proliferation and the expression of hyaluronan synthase-2 and hyaluronan synthase-3 gene, which are enzymes that synthesize water-binding matrix hyaluronic acids in keratinocytes. In addition, asterosaponin $P_1$ increased synthesis of pro-collagen type I, a major dermal collagen in fibroblasts. As a result, asterosaponin $P_1$ isolated from A. pectinifera could be used as a useful cosmetic ingredient that improves skin symptoms accompanying skin aging.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
• /
• v.42 no.2
• /
• pp.183-193
• /
• 2016

This study attempted to investigate the possibility of the use of Morinda citrifolia (MC) as a cosmetic ingredient from its physiological activities such as antioxidant activity, cytotoxicity and anti-aging effect. MC is a tropical plant that has been used as traditional polynesian foods and medicines for over two thousand years. It has been reported that this shrub can improve antimicrobial, anti-cancer and anti-inflammatory effects and strengthen an immune system. The in vitro antioxidant activity of MC was performed to see the DPPH scavenging activity by measuring total polyphenol content and total flavonoid content. As a result, a lack of any cytotoxicity was confirmed in human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) cell. When MC extract at a concentration of over $50{\sim}100{\mu}g/mL$ was added, MMP-1 expression considerably diminished. In an in vivo test, in addition, cream containing MC extract was prepared and applied to a total of 22 women in their 30 ~ 50s in ages in the morning and in the evening for four weeks. Changes in keratin, melanin index, pore, skin color and wrinkles under the naked eyes were then comparatively measured. Keratin levels slightly increased in the control group but decreased in the experimental group. In addition, wrinkles diminished in the experimental group. This study found that MC extract controls many MMP-1 related mechanisms with great potential for use as a natural ingredient of anti-aging cosmetics.