• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.8
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• pp.137-151
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• 2007

This study was aimed to analyze and investigate a diversity of aesthetic values expressed in the military look designs of the Paris collections by using content analysis method to find what design characteristic and image emerged in the later 20th century. A total of 267 military look works shown in fashion magazines such as Vogue and Collezioni Donna over the period between 1996 and 2000 were collected as research data, which were classified into 5 categories such as item, silhouette, color, color coordination, fashion image. The results were summarized as follows: first, it was found that coat was the most preferred item in expressing the military look image. Second, the straight line was the most referred silhouette, which indicates that it was the most suitable silhouette in expressing he bisexual image of the military look. Third, achromatic colors such as black and white were found to be of the highest frequency, which shows that achromatic colors continued to be proposed as fashionable colors around 1996 and this influence was effected in the military look. Finally, monochromatic coordination accounted for more than half of the military look, through which it could be explained that designers utilized it greatly to make an effective expression of the masculine image.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.36-50
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• 2021

In the COVID-19 era, globally, companies in the fashion industry are pursuing new convergence methods through digital technology. Conventional fashion shows have become difficult to run exclusively, instead, the shows are run through a combination of offline and digital arrangements. This paper examines the trends of seven digital fashion show weeks in London, Paris, Milan, New York, Seoul, Shanghai, and Tokyo, and presents strategies applicable in Korea's Seoul Digital Fashion Week. We focused on the digital technology used in the digital fashion weeks fashion brands, and the characteristics of the host cities. The study conducted a literature review and case study through corporate and research report data, and the Fashion Week website. Based on the study results, changes in fashion industry calendars like 'See now, Buy now', seasonless, and unified collections for men and women, expansion of D2C system, the rise of short-form contents, and the expansion to the virtual world space and physical limitations can be cited as changed trends. The study provides insight into the incorporation of the Korean Wave and K-Pop singers, industrial structure change, and the establishment of B2B system in the Seoul digital fashion week. The shift to the digital runway is not only an alternative method to cope with the COVID-19 era but also a new "new normal". Fashion shows are no longer fixed and planned in free spaces. As a venue displaying the creator's personality, digital fashion week is expected advance in the future.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.28-47
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to provide basic data to assist students and industrial designers in fashion by examining the trend of designing women's wear with the SCAMPER method. In the research, the seven types of SCAMPER methods for fashion design were classified based on the previous studies. From 2010 S/S to 2020 S/S, data from 5,149 photographs were collected through overlapping checks and classified by SCAMPER method type. Data analysis was performed using SPSS 25.0 for frequency analysis. As a result, in the SCAMPER "combine" method, more than two items were combined, or structural details were combined with items. In the most applied "adapt" method was involved imitating similar images, or natural forms, or other objects. The "modify" method was applied by changing the shape of some details in basic fashion items. The "magnify" method was applied by enlarging, elongating, or elevating some details of fashion items. The "minify" method was applied by minimizing, shortening, or lowering some details of basic fashion. The method of "put to other use" was expressed throughout the clothing by using non-fabric or trimmings such as metal, beads, and strings. The "rearrange" method was applied by repositioning the top and bottom, front and back, or outside and inside in fashion items and in details. The "reverse" method was applied by reversing the style of fashion, mix-and-match fabric, or switching the gender of the fashion items.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.52-71
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• 2020

This study examines the color characteristics of the usage of the color pink in menswear by analyzing its usage status and method. It involves an empirical research method establishing the frame of the study through a document study centered on trend, gender neutral considerations, and the utilization of the color pink in men's fashion, by analyzing the characteristics of color and tone by extracting the pink color shown in menswear collections as well as analyzing and categorizing the fashion image and genderless characteristics. Analyzing the color and tone of the pink color shown indicate that bright, light and pale tones had higher proportions. Pink color can also be said to be utilized as a design element that gives off a younger and more vital color image in menswear. Further, the use of brighter and softer pink colors can be interpreted as reflecting modern society's demands of masculinity to change into a more sophisticated and soft image. To analyze the characteristics of the color pink utilized in gender neutral fashion, fashion images were presented as the analysis standard. An image grouping technique was used to classify pink while utilizing genderless types-fashion style. The result showed that even with the same pink color, the fashion image can vary with different methods of expression in terms of clothes and styling. The results of this study can serve as basic data for planning fashion design concepts as it analyzed pink-using fashion images and the genderless concept type.

• Archives of design research
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• v.18 no.4 s.62
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• pp.225-236
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• 2005

As a fresh trial using humorous items to escape from economic recession and uncertain state of mind regarding politics and society, fun is emerging as a keyword in design area. This study classified various use of fun reflected in modern fashion design according to the theme, and analyzed the mod of expression to identify formative characteristics. Through these processes, this study built conceptual structure of fun in fashion design. 412 fashion designs which represent fun were collected from 2001 $S/S{\sim}2005$ F/W collections. Data were analyzed and categorized. Results showed that the theme of fun in the modern fashion design could be classified into humor, kidult, irony, satire/parody, storytelling, and play. The design elements mainly used were color silhouette, letter, object, and drawing, while the design principles were distortion/exaggeration, incongruity, and repetition. In addition, these expressions were related to the traditional humor theory: incongruity-resolution, superior, and relief theories. The fun in modern fashion design has such value as affirmation, warmness, entertainment, youth, contradiction, surprise, deviate, allusion, attack, and description, Finally, in regard to the subject, the fun provides active experience like play as well as passive acceptance.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.84-100
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze the meanings of signs represented in contemporary fashion based on the Peirce's trisection theory in order to present various types of sign representation that satisfies aesthetic value and characteristics of the age of information and image. Types of signs represented in contemporary fashion can be summarized into letters, numbers, codes, pictures, logos, characters and emblems. The meanings of signs were analyzed based on the Peirce's trisection theory, resulting in representation of play, brandsymbol, eroticism and suggestion. The play was categorized into infantile and parodic. The former inspires unexpected interest and laughter from contemporary people in the age of disorder through humorous characters, cartoons and illustrations. The latter inspires laughter by parodying things and it's intention is to release the isolation of people and their relative poverty through pictures for which techniques of parody and surrealism were used. Most of the brandsymbols represented by logos, used for textile and clothing design as well as accessories are optimal signs that construct brand images. Eroticism means emotion, impulses, senses of value and sexual attraction. A desire to represent sexual attraction is an expression of eroticism and self-expression to adjust in a changing society. Suggestion tends to pursue the image of harmony with nature in a world which is pressed by material civilization. Humans represent illuminating messages through direct slogans by characters, natural objects and motives of social phenomenon in pursuit of the benefits of abundant material civilization in the structure of a highly advanced scientific civilization and industrial society.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.153-169
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• 2017

The rapid growth of the Korean fashion industry has contributed greatly to the establishment of various fashion associations that have appeared since the 1960s. Seoul Fashion Week celebrated its 20th anniversary; there is now a crucial opportunity for the role of Korean fashion associations to the world's top five fashion collections. This study examines and compares the various roles of Korean fashion associations and the fashion associations of France, Italy, USA, and UK. Based on the comparison results, suggestions for the roles of Korean fashion associations are as follows. The following three roles are important in both Korean and foreign associations: stable operation of collections, the creation of various funds to support fashion designers, and foster new designers through linkage with the education programs for textiles and design. Mutual cooperation among various associations is essential to achieve future goals. The specific activities of foreign associations are highly suggestive for direction. In addition to the pursuit of members' rights, it is also desirable to conduct various social activities. It is necessary to create various events that ordinary citizens and students can enjoy in addition to achieving the goal of promoting and selling products at the Seoul Fashion Week. In order to overcome various difficult situations facing Korea and to prepare for a great leap forward for the fashion industry, Korean fashion associations should spare no effort to overcome mutually conflicting interests and understand other perspectives from a macro perspective.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.36-48
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• 2022

This study aims to analyze the patterns made with knitted jacquard and intarsia techniques to provide essential data to help plan different knitwear designs using the techniques and patterns. Based on approximately 3,000 jacquard and intarsia knitwear published in the four significant womenswear collections over the past decade, eight main pattern types were classified, and each characteristic was analyzed. Firstly, it is a logo and symbol type pattern that appears mainly as a means of emphasizing a brand. Secondly, it is a traditional pattern with settled patterns from the past to the present. Third, it is a geometric pattern that appears both typically and atypically in various forms. Fourth, an abstract pattern type does not show a precise form or motif. Fifth, it is a colorful and diverse flower and plant pattern. Sixth, it is a landscape pattern that expresses nature and living space. Seventhly, it is an animal pattern type that expresses the appearance of an animal or the shape of the. Finally, it is a caricature pattern type using characters and various cartoonish motifs. Based on the analysis results of this study, creative and diverse design development of Jacquard and Intarsia knitwear and development of the knitwear market will take place.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.859-870
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to investigate the fashion reflecting the aesthetic consciousness of a generation and age spirit and to study Mods-Look aesthetically by analyzing how Mods-Look expressed on the fashion magazines(Collezioni Donna) from 2001 to 2006 developed into a new form. 1960's Mods-Look appeared in the well known collections such as New York, Paris, Milan in the form of crossover or with a changed style. Especially after 2000's, in addition to the British fashion, even a new word Mods Story was created to prominently express the free style of the Mods spirit. The expressive characteristics represent 1) minimal style, 2) sports casual style, 3) vintage style, 4) dandy & androgynous style. In conclusion, Mods-Look in 21st fashion used to be street fashion started from minority subculture after world war II, but now suit of that time, geometrical pattern and sensibility are becoming design sources for the various fashion market from high fashion to sports look. Therefore, as young people are becoming the center of society in new millenium, sensibility of that time will be reinterpreted to design and Mods-Look will not be limited to subculture but reflected in design development fulfilling people's taste and new future fashion sense by compromising the past and new trend.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.73-80
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• 2010

This research examined the design characteristics of Madeleine Vionnet, a female fashion designer who left an enormous legacy and made a great contribution to the high added-value fashion industry. Her techniques can be dividing in to three types: the bias cutting, the design by geometrical methods, and the classical style of ancient Greek clothing. This research also intended to study the design cases in which Vionnet's drapery images are applied to modern fashion, mainly the haute couture works that have appeared at Dior collections since 2000. In terms of the characteristics of Madeleine Vionnet's design, First, she produced the best achievement in dress and ornament history by developing a new technique called bias cutting. Second, her work was groundbreaking because it changed the previously planar approach to the female body into a solid conception by cutting and connecting geometrical pieces in the form of quadrangle, triangle, and a quarter-circle. As a result, her works depicted feminine beauty to the fullest extent through the combination of the human body, excellent materials, and the most sophisticated technology and personal skill. Third, her approach was a classical style tinged with the Greek costume image. With this style, which was born by reinterpreting the key tone of the Greek epoch in a modern way, and transcending and even changing tradition, she created a form of beauty that only she could.