• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권4호
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• pp.113-129
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to discover the changes and characteristis of modern knitwears from the 1920's to the 1990's. The result of this study is as follows: The popular knitwears in the 1920's had a simple boxy-line and modern unisex image with a sporty look. The knitwears in the 1930's-1950's had seen more short, feminine detail and texture, fit silhouette with syntheyic fibers. In the 1960's, the knitwears of sporty look and unisex style was popularized by young peaples, and crochet with handkniting by the fiber artists was popularized. In the 1970's-80's, the layered looks and unisex styles of knitwears were popularized by influence of a ecology mood and a woman movemant. And various patterns was developed with the computer machine. The items of outer knitwear was increased by the use of fancy yarns and the knitwears as the total fashion was popularized. In the 1990s, the knitwears had a very forceful characteristics by the mixed style and the technique of design developed into the post-modernism. The key words of the character of the modern knitwears are funtional pursuit, unisex, high value, hightechnique, art. By the change of the life style and the develope of technical innovation, the knitwears will be the key item to leading the fashion in the 21th.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제46권8호
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• pp.17-26
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to identify the aesthetic characteristics of modern fashion design use with a particular focus on transparency, and to help create future vision and feature. As part of the methodology for this study, I examined the concept of transparency, its characteristics and how it was expressed through art, architecture and other designs using literature research. Furthermore, I performed justifiable analysis on modern fashion design which used transparency from the 1990s till present. The following concepts were deciphered from information: Firstly, the concept of purity was highlighted. The emphasis here was to enhance the body's natural beauty with simple silhouettes that do not restrict its curves, using light materials such as clear vinyl, semi-clear materials or thin chiffon. Secondly, to express sensuality by exposing the body's curves with tight wrapping using clear materials, or with indirect and symbolic see-through techniques using contrasting clear, semi-clear and opaque materials. Thirdly, to express futurism through cyber and electronic images using high tech or shiny materials such as metal or holograms. Mechanical movements or effects of light are also used. Fourthly, to express playful characteristic by promoting surprises and disharmony that contradict with traditional techniques. This is carried out by intentionally exaggerating certain portions of clothes through disorder elements or confusion, and unsymmetrical shapes which destruct the human body's normal form.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권3호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to find the aesthetic characteristics of costume design as mise-en-scène in movie 'The Danish Girl'. the methods of this study was carried out prior research, literature studies and qualitative research of visual content analysis by DVD. The spatial and temporal scope of the study is Copenhagen, Denmark from 1926 to 1931, and Paris, France. The styles of the times(1925 ~ 1931) and the spatial sensibilities of women's costumes in terms of form and color were examined thorough out the story. As the results, the costume are based on the 1920's Art Deco style like straight silhouette and some of them are oval soft silhouette. The colors are harmonized or in conflict based on Nordic colors such as blue-green, gray and yellow. Rather than expressing the internal conflict between the two main characters, the costume was focused on the role and character. And also exotic tastes like Japanese and Egyptian textiles patterns and decorations. Therefore, it was found that the movie costume played a role as one of the very important mise-en-scène.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제44권5호
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• pp.984-1003
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• 2020

The global fashion industry produces significant carbon emission and micro-plastics in oceans. Studies on sustainable design methods as such environmental issues in fashion are becoming intensely problematic. This study conducted a case study on 100 upcycle fashion brands to propose strategical upcycle fashion designs to compete in a sustainable fashion market. A literature review indicated that 3 types of textile wastes are generated as upcycling materials: post-producer, pre-consumer and post-consumer. Wastes are categorized together with 3 types of techniques: redesigning, reconstruction and handcrafting. This research derived 7 types of upcycle fashion designs that have the following features: to make luxury upcycle fashion products, to make sustainable grunge looks, to re-evaluate deadstocks, to recover vintage clothes, to convert waste into craft-arts, to offer solutions for damaged products, and to make zero-waste small fabric waste. The study results show that key drivers in the upcycle fashion design are the redesignability of materials and technique-related costs. This study implies that adopting appropriate design features can be a useful strategy for designers. New technologies will solve current problems and encourage them to design products in a new circular value system.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.97-115
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• 2022

The study aims to explore a new direction for research on buttons by understanding the functions and artistic features of buttons on Western clothing in the 18th and 19th centuries, and to use the findings to develop a textile design. In terms of the research method, the period was set in the 18th and 19th centuries, when decorative features and artistic values of buttons on Western clothing reached theirpeak, while theoretical analysis was made based on literature and previous research papers on Western clothing, websites of the Metropolitan Museum and French Museum of Decorative Arts and other website materials, as well as special exhibition materials of the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. Textile designs were developed using computer programs, including Clip Studio Paint and Adobe Photoshop, by integrating the reinterpreted motif of buttons in the 18th and 19th centuries and the styles that prevailed at that time. The results are as follows. First, buttons on Western clothing had the following three functions: a practical function, a symbolic function representing the wearer's status, and a decorative function expressing individuality and beauty. Second, buttons in the 18th century were works of art made with various handicraft techniques and were an important medium that expressed the wearer's fashion sense. In addition, buttons in the 19th century were mass-produced as a result of industrialization and took a major step forward with the development of materials and dyeing. Buttons reflected themes of poetry, drama, biblical stories, music and art, lifestyle,, along with the political and social atmosphere that rapidly changed after the revolution and fashion trends. Third, the artistic features and shapes of buttons were reinterpreted to create a design motif, and the design was developed reflecting the characteristic elements of the rococo style of the 18th century and the art nouveau style of the 19th century that can conform to modern fashion, thereby rediscovering the artistic meaning and value implied in buttons. In the future, the research on creative buttons of 20th century artists is expected to be conducted from various perspectives.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.561-576
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• 2016

Born in the 19th century as an intermediate between the past and the future, steampunk provides a strong feeling of fantasy. The objective of this research is to understand the utilization of steampunk in all realms through an in-depth literature review and empirical study. Taking the findings as a foundation, we will analyze examples shown in fashion designs that are put into real production, and those designs that can provide inspiration for further design development. The research methodology will constitute a major analysis of advanced research, internet materials, and literature. Photo materials will be collected from professional websites for steampunk. The product method such as follows. Firstly, we will classify the internal meaning of characteristics in steampunk that are similar to the characteristics that are being researched, then take it as the standard and arrange to integrate all five features: restoration, pluralism, duplicity, resistibility and abnormality. We will spread out the design based on images from advanced research. Secondly, in order for to design a steampunk product, I decided on four themes: devastated environment, brutal wars, cool-headed machinery, and the overlap of the future and the past. Inspiration was acquired from representative movies and animations featuring steampunk. Thus, new directions for fashion design with steampunk features can be discovered. It raises the feasibility of this combination in modern society. In the future with the development of technology, it functions as a design that is easy for users to approach.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.536-547
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• 1995

The modernization of the fashion design in our country, like our chaotic modern history, has not been easy for us to grasp its main stream because it lacked historical consciousness and sincere attitude of creating. In trying to find out designs very Korean, designers usually ignore the deeply rooted ideologies and modes of our own, and primarily depend on the scattered fragments of tradition, such as the curled line of the ancient roofs, folk jackets and skirts, and Talcum, our ethnic dance, sometimes making some patchwork like clothes they divan't really intend to make. In the world of modern design, especially of the fashion industrial design, designs more scientific, more rationale and more positively appealing to the consumers, not the unconscious and emotional ones, are being demanded. To win in the fierce competing world of design as well call this age an age of "Design War", it is desirable for us to create our peculiar designs by uniting the internationalism (universality) and nationalism (traditionalism) together under a single rigid purpose. Analyzing the designs mainly of Korean style fashion designers since the 1980s, 1 could see that Korean designs in the aspect of appearance have a strong tendency toward applying or reviving the traditional elements, thus are under a bias toward nationalism rather than in ternationalism. The idea of "very Korean" does not mean a mere harmony or negotiation of the traditional elements with modern ones. It is rather a concept from vivid historical experiences of the conflict between the purely Korean mental, cultural heritages and the demands in mod- eradiation. Therefore, based on this concept of "very Korean" we must create fashions completely Korean and modern at the same time.n and modern at the same time.

• 복식
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• 제66권2호
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• pp.134-147
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• 2016

The mainstay of modern fashion design has always been Western costumes. Though Asian costumes do get featured in collections at times, most instances are just instances of the western culture showing curiosity toward non-mainstream costumes. Until recently, Japan, which has been the most active in cultural exchanges, has been the main recipient of these curiosities, and has been used as the representative style and culture of East Asia. What needs to be let known is that Korea has its own costume style and culture, which have been developed according to its tradition and beliefs. Hanbok, which is the representative traditional costume in Korea, has existed since the beginning of the Kochosun dynasties. I started this study to figure out the design source of Hanbok's shape and develop it into a modern costume. In the fashion industry, "Mandarin Collar" and "Kimono Sleeve" are common terms, And I hope that words like 'Korean Collar' and 'Hanbok Sleeve' will one day become a household term. Hanbok contains Korea image. And its shape is formed depending on how Koreans have been treating all sorts of objects or things for many years. If my study can identify and express the unique Korean way of pattern and considering clothes, which is clearly different from those of China and Japan, I will be able to establish a concept of 'Korean style', that people of the world could come to recognize.

• 복식
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• 제65권4호
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• pp.61-75
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• 2015

This research aims to analyze the prep-hop fashion, which is an original look created through the convergence of the hip-hop and preppy look, and identify the design characteristics of the prep-hop fashion. The style mixes the fashion of what was traditionally a lower-class look with the upper class. The design characteristics are as follows: First, the prep-hop fashion expresses slim, casual and sophisticated look with items and silhouettes. The items are categorized into jackets, shirts and pants. The prep-hop jackets provides a casual look to its wearer unlike the jackets of preppy or conservative looks. Slim suits show different meanings and features depending on the changes in the time and culture despite the continued use of the items. Second, the colors of the prep-hop fashion include overall basic colors used in the preppy look and hip-hop fashion. The aesthetic values of the colors express pleasant color images different from the conservative and resistant images expressed in the preppy and hip-hop style before the convergence, respectively. Third, the materials and patterns are expressed in a unique way to fulfill the emotional needs that are considered vital to contemporary fashion. The materials in the prep-hop fashion extend the ranges of usage by using the materials with unexpectedness broken out of general range of usage. While the use of the patterns is one of the methods to demonstrate that the prep-hop fashion is created by the convergence between hip-hop fashion and preppy look, the meaning concludes pleasantness and casualness different from the past. Fourth, the prep-hop fashion is mainly composed of hip-hop fashion accessories, which express the authenticity of the hip-hop fashion to protect the non-mainstream characteristics. The design characteristics of the prep-hop fashion pursue the individuality of the contemporary fashion, which lacks originality due to commercialization. The development of the prep-hop fashion, as a new form that combined contrasting genres and trends, is expected to develop more publicly.

• 복식
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• 제59권8호
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• pp.82-96
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to present the basic approach of producing the luxury fashion brands containing of the Korean traditional traits on the basis of traditional transformation with the modern concept, taking the 'Vivienne Tam' 2000's collections. This study has focused on its transformation of the traditional one of China, and made this as the subject of investigation. It's design characteristic could be defined as "modern interpretations of China chic", and it would be divided into two groups. The ingenious mixture of Chinese tradition into the modern chic could be concluded like these. The external characteristics is categorized in the three ways (1) the aesthetic application of the Chinese traditional patterns(dragon, water waves, peony, Japanese apricot flower, bamboo, bats, Chinese characters etc.), (2)the modern application of Chinese traditional costume details(front opening of Chipao, mandarin collar and knot buttons) and (3)the modernization of Chinese traditional technique(knotting, embroidery, beading and paper cutting). To deal with the internal characteristics, (1)the aesthetic mixture of East and West, (2)the formative expressions of the traditional view on the universe and religion are remarkable. The Chinese embodiment and the view of the universe and religion was integrated into the patterns of dragon, water waves, clouds, fire, woods, and metals. In order to afford the creative designer capable of encompassing the East and West, the teaching about the Korean tradition along with the technical and practical aspect of fashion is most important, while encouraging the professional designer to make a sophisticated ones which are attributed to the Korean tradition, and thereby come to be attractive to the world customer. The study about the Korean costumes, traditional colors, the symbolic meaning of the traditional patterns, cuttings, compositions, extending to the various kinds of myths, songs, paintings and crafts are essential for the Korean designer brand to be the global luxury brands.