• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2007.05a
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• pp.570-576
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• 2007

수중천퇴가 있는 지형을 통과하며 변형하는 파랑을 실험한 Vincent와 Briggs (1989)의 실험조건을 수치모의하여 파랑과 흐름의 상호작용 효과를 연구하였다. SHORECIRC 흐름모형을 결합한 파랑모형 REF/DIF 1과 SWAN, 그리고 파랑과 흐름을 동시에 수치모의 할 수 있는 FUNWAVE를 이용하여 수중천퇴상을 통과하며 변형하고 또 다시 수중천퇴상에서 발생한 쇄파에 의해 발생된 쇄파류에 의해 변형하는 규칙파를 수치모의하였다. 수중천퇴상에서 쇄파가 발생할 때 잉여파응력의 급격한 변화에 따른 강한 유사제트류가 발생하고, 이 흐름은 수중천퇴후면의 파집중현상을 방해하여 파랑을 천퇴중심축으로부터 바깥쪽으로 굴절시켜, 파고를 상대적으로 감소시키는 역할을 한다. 이러한 역학은 실험결과와 본 연구의 수치모의를 통해 확인할 수 있었고, 이는 파랑쇄파류의 파랑변형에 미치는 역할의 중요성을 확인시켜주는 것이다. 규칙파 모의에 한계가 있는 SWAN과 규칙파 특성상 강하게 나타나는 중복파의 잉여파응력계산에 한계가 있는 REF/DIF 1과 달리 FUNWAVE를 이용한 수치모의는 실험결과와 완벽히 일치하였으며, 수중천퇴 후면에 발생하는 쇄파류와 쇄파류에 의한 쌍 vortex의 발달과정을 잘 보여 주었다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1998.09a
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• pp.78-83
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• 1998

흐름이 존재하는 수역을 파가 전파할 때 파는 흐름과의 상호작용에 의해 그 특성이 변형된다. 예를 들면 파와 흐름의 진행 방향이 같을 때는 파고의 감소, 반대일 때 파고의 증가로 나타난다. 후자의 경우 흐름에 의해 반사파가 생성될 것으로 사료되나 실제 해역에서 이러한 현상을 관측한 예는 거의 찾아보기 어렵다. 동해안의 경우 통상 관측지점에서 흐름의 세기가 작기 때문에 흐름에 의한 파의 굴절 현상이 잘 나타나지 않는다. (중략)

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.36 no.4
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• pp.645-650
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• 2016

In this study, we conducted a numerical simulation using Navier-Stokes Solver (HYMO-WASS-3D) in order to analyze wave attenuation under wave-current interaction found in existing hydraulic experiments. It showed that wave energy and wave height are reduced as the wave propagates in coexisting fields between waves and currents. And the wave attenuation became more serious as the velocity of current and thus turbulence intensity were increased at wave-current coexisting field. As well, the wave attenuation became more serious with lower wave height and shorter period when the wave propagates the same distance under interactions between waves and currents.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.222-227
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• 2007

Formation of freak waves is studied in deep water from transient wave packets propagating on current. Those waves are obtained by means of dispersive focusing. This process is investigated by solving both linear and nonlinear equations. The role of nonlinearity is emphasized in this interaction.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.308-315
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• 2009

Wave-current interaction due to strong ambient currents causes to alter wave properties such as wave height, wave profile and wave spectrum. In this study we first examined the SWAN model's applicability by comparing with an analytical solution of Suh et al. (1994) for wave-current interaction in finite water-depth. Numerical experiments using SWAN model have been conducted for Garolim Bay to estimate the design waveheights influenced by strong tidal currents. For the design wave periods of 8~10 sec, the design wave height of 3 m in NNW direction was increased by up to 40% when the incident waves encounter the opposing currents of 1.4 m/s while the wave height was reduced by 26% due to the following currents of 1.1 m at the bay mouth. This result indicates that the effect of wave-current interaction must be included to determine the design wave height if there exists a strong current.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.77-89
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• 1991

Based on Boussinesq equation, the parabolic approximation equation is used to analyse the propagation of shallow water waves with currents over slowly varying depth. Rip currents (jet-like) occur mainly in shallow waters where the Ursell parameter significatly exceeds the range of application of Stokes wave theory. We employ the nonlinear parabolic approximation equation which is valid for waves of large Ursell parameters and small scale currents. Two types of currents are considered; relatively strong and relatively weak currents. The wave propagating over rip currents on a sloping bottom experiences a shoaling due to the variations of depth and current velocity as well as refraction and diffraction due to the vorticity of currents. Numerical analyses for a nonlinear theory are valid before the breaking point.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.39-52
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• 2000

The triad interactions have been known to be important only for shoaling waves or finite depth wind waves. In deep water, they are insignificant compared with the quadruplet interactions in respect to the evolution of wind waves due to energy transfer among the wave components. However, the triad interactions may be important even for deep water waves because they may closely be related to the wave steepness, which definitely affects wave breaking, drag of air flow over t.'Ie sea, or navigation of ships, especially during the early stage of the development of wind waves. This study reports a series of laboratory experiments, whose data are subjected to bispectral analyses to investigate the triad interactions of deep-water wind waves. It is found that the bicoherence at the spectral peak frequency and the wave steepness are almost directly proportional, indicating that the steep waves with peaked crests and flat troughs are resulted from the triad interactions. Both bicoherence and wave steepness increase with the wave age during the early stage of wave generation and then drop off as the waves grow old. It seems that the energy of the secondary spectral peak developed by the triad interactions during the early stage of wave generation is redistributed to the neighboring frequencies by the quadruplet interactions during the later stage.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.491-497
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• 2008

The effect of wave and current interactions on jet-like current flowing against waves was investigated based on numerical simulations. The numerical simulations were conducted using a model system of REF/DIF(a wave model) and SHORECIRC(a current model). In the simulations, irregular waves refracted due to the jet-like opposing current were focused along the centerline of current, and the jet-like current was spreaded earlier when the wave heights become larger. The numerical results show that the rapid change of wave height distribution in transverse direction near current inlet plays a significant role to spread the jet-like current. In other words, the radiation stress gradients acting in transverse direction have a more significant effect on the jet-like current than its gradients acting in flowing direction which tend to accelerate the current do. In conclusion, it is indispensible to take into account the interaction between waves and current when the jet-like current such as river mouth meets opposing waves.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1994.07a
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• pp.33-38
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• 1994

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.34 no.5
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• pp.1463-1476
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• 2014

In order to understand hydrodynamic and morphodynamic characteristics under wave-current interactions in an estuary, a coupled model for two-way analysis between existing 3-d numerical wave tank and newly-developed 3-d morphodynamic model has been suggested. Comparing to existing experimental results it is revealed that computed results of the newly-suggested model are in good agreement with each laboratory test result for wave height distribution, vertical flow profile and topographical change around ocean floor pipeline in wave-current coexisting field. Also the numerical result for suspended sediment concentration is verified in comparison with experimental result in solitary wave field. Finally, it is shown that the 3-D coupled Hydro-Morphodynamic model suggested in this study is applicable to morphological change under wave-current interaction in an estuary.