• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.51-58
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• 2003

The magnitude of evanescent modes in terms of dynamics it investigated in case that the transformation of water waves is predicted by the linear wave theory. For the waves propagating over two steps, the eigenfunction expansion method is used to predict the amplitudes of reflected and transmitted waves by the component of evanescent modes as well as propagating modes. Then. the relative importance of evanescent modes to the propagating modes is investigated. The numerical experiments find that the evanescent modes are pronounced at the relative water depth of k$_1$h$_1$＝0.11$\pi$ and the water depth ratio of h$_2$/h$_1$ close to zero.

• 한국방재학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2011.02a
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• pp.56-56
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• 2011

본 연구에서는 파랑의 변형을 예측하는 방법 중 하나인 고유함수전개법을 이용하여 축대칭 형태의 지형 위를 통과하는 파랑의 소멸파 성분을 검토하였다. 기울기와 곡률이 변하는 지역에 고유함수 전개법을 적용하여 해석할 때 필요한 적절한 구간의 수와 소멸파 성분의 개수를 산정하였다. 고유함수전개법을 이용하여 파랑의 변화를 예측하는 연구는 Bremmer(1951)가 전자기파에 적용하면서 처음 제시한 후 Takano(1960)가 파랑 변형 연구에 적용하면서 본격적으로 진행되었다. 이밖에 Kirby and Dalymple(1983), Liu et al.(1992), Cho and Lee(2000), Bender and Dean(2003), 조용식과 이창훈(1998) 및 강규영 등(2007)에 의해 국내 외로 많은 연구가 진행되었다. 그러나 기존의 연구의 대부분이 연직 2차원 지형에 대하여 수행되어 왔다. 3차원 지형에 대한 고유함수전개법은 Bender and Dean(2005)에 의해 처음으로 시작되었다. 그러나 그들의 연구에서는 수렴해를 얻기 위한 구간 및 소멸파 개수에 관한 구체적인 검토가 이루어지지 않았다는 한계가 있다. 그러나 실제 해저 지역은 다양한 지형의 영향을 받게 된다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 축대칭 지형에 대하여 수렴해를 얻기 위해 구간을 나누어 해의 수렴성을 확인하여 적절한 구간의 수를 결정한 후 소멸파의 수를 변화시키면서 소멸파가 파랑의 변형에 미치는 영향을 검토하였다. 천해역 및 중간수심 영역을 구간의 수와 소멸파 성분의 수에 변화를 주면서 수렴성 검사를 한 결과, 천해 영역에서는 소멸파 성분의 영향이 적게 나타났으나 중간수심 영역에서는 적절한 개수의 소멸파를 고려해야 보다 정확한 예측을 할 수 있음을 알 수 있었다.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2004.05a
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• pp.298-302
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• 2004

본 연구에서는 낙동강 하구역 해역에서의 폭풍 해일의 특성 및 이를 고려한 외해 압사파랑특성을 고찰하고 연안사주 전면의 입사파랑과 퇴적 특성과의 상호 관계를 고찰하였으며 천해역의 파랑변형을 예측할 수 있는 다방향 불규칙파 묘형을 구성하고 폭풍 해일고를 수심조건에 고려함으로써 하구역 해역에서의 파랑 변형계산을 2차원 평면수치모의실험을 수행하였다. 낙동강 하구역에서 서측에 위치하는 진우도 전면해역이 무명도 전면해역보다 약 1.0배에서 2.0배 크게 파고분포를 나타내었다. 이는 입사하는 파랑의 공간 분포가 사주전면에서 공간적으로 차이가 남을 나타내는 것으로 사주의 퇴적작용에 영향을 줄 것이라고 판단된다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.87-94
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• 1996

Random wave breaking is one of the most important phenomena in coastal engineering. For two and half decades, various models have been proposed to predict wave height variations in the surf zone. However, some models are applicable to plane beaches only, some requires clumsy computation for a joint probability density of wave heights and periods, and some others need calibration with individual wave data. The present study aims at formulating a model simple enough but reasonably accurate. The merits of the present model are as follows: It is applicable to any shapes of bottom profiles; It requires the input data of incident wave heights and periods only without necessity of coefficient calibration with field data; and its computation time is minimal because it deals with representative waves directly.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Nondestructive Testing
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.20-26
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• 2012

The objective of this study is to assess plastic deformation in aluminium alloy by acoustic nonlinearity of laser-generated surface waves. A line-arrayed laser beam made by high-power pulsed laser and mask slits is utilized to generate the narrowband surface wave and the frequency characteristics of laser-generated surface waves are controlled by varying the slit opening width and slit interval of mask slits. Various degrees of tensile deformation were induced by interrupting the tensile tests so as to obtain aluminum specimens with different degrees of plastic deformation. The experimental results show that the acoustic nonlinear parameter of a laser-generated surface wave increased with the level of tensile deformation and it has a good correlation with the results of micro-Vickers hardness test and electron backscatter diffraction (EBSD) test. Consequently, acoustic nonlinearity of laser-generated surface wave could be potential to characterize plastic deformation of aluminum alloy.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.22-30
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• 1989

Wave propagation is changed by the effect of shoaling, current-depth refraction and shelter-ing etc. To solve these problems. numerous models have been developed. In the present study, a coordinate system is proposed based on the wave ray equation with the wave number equation including diffraction effects . The governing equation for the study was derived from the mild slope wave equation in non-steady state, including current effects (Kirby, 1986a) and trans-formed into an orthogonal curvilinear coordinate system on the basis of the wave ray equation. To obtain a numerical solution, an explicit finite difference scheme was used, and solved by the relaxation method. This model was tested for various cases: Firstly a submersed circular shoal and a constant unit depth. Secondly a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope, and finally a breakwater harbour with obliquely incident waves on a slope. The model was found to simulate the experimental results and other theoretical results in wave height and wave angle fairy well, and the applicability of the model around an arbitrary shaped coastal structure was also verified. To demonstrate the general usefullness of the present approach , the model is to be applied to a field situation with a complex bed topography.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.565-573
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• 2007

The effect of wave and current interactions on irregular wave transformation over a submerged elliptic shoal is investigated based on numerical simulations of the Vincent and Briggs experiment [Vincent, C.L., Briggs, M.J., 1989. Refraction-diffraction of irregular waves over a mound. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 115(2), pp. 269-284]. The numerical simulations are conducted by a combination of REF/DIF S(a wave model) and SHORECIRC(a current model) and a time dependent phase-resolving wavecurrent model, FUNWAVE. In the simulations, the breaking-induced currents defocus waves behind the shoal and bring on a wave shadow zone that shows relatively low wave height distributions. The computed results of the combined model system agree better with the measurements than the computed results obtained by neglecting wave-current interaction do. In addition, the results of FUNWAVE show a good agreement with the measurements. The agreement indicates that it is necessary to take into account the effect of breaking-induced current on wave refraction when wave-breaking occurs over a submerged shoal.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.29 no.3 s.99
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• pp.257-262
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• 2005

Environmental problems and safety problems in coastal area is one of the most important factors for designing coastal structures and maintaining facilities in coastal zone. And thus study on Wave transformation around coastal area is very important to develope a new port or on industrial area. Delft 3D-WAVE is applied to Ulsan new port area and the culculated results are analysed and compared with measured data Delft 3D-wave module is based on SWAN model which considers wave shoaling and refraction for irregular wave. This module also covers wind effect, bottom friction. white-capping and wave breaking effect. The results of this study show a good agreement with measured data and thus Delft 3D-WAVE module can be applied to simulate irregular wave transformation in coastal area.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.308-315
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• 2009

Wave-current interaction due to strong ambient currents causes to alter wave properties such as wave height, wave profile and wave spectrum. In this study we first examined the SWAN model's applicability by comparing with an analytical solution of Suh et al. (1994) for wave-current interaction in finite water-depth. Numerical experiments using SWAN model have been conducted for Garolim Bay to estimate the design waveheights influenced by strong tidal currents. For the design wave periods of 8~10 sec, the design wave height of 3 m in NNW direction was increased by up to 40% when the incident waves encounter the opposing currents of 1.4 m/s while the wave height was reduced by 26% due to the following currents of 1.1 m at the bay mouth. This result indicates that the effect of wave-current interaction must be included to determine the design wave height if there exists a strong current.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.335-344
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• 2011

A curvilinear non-hydrostatic free surface model is developed to investigate nonlinear wave interactions in a circular channel. The proposed model solves the unsteady Navier-Stokes equations in a three-dimensional domain with a pressure correction method, which is one of fractional step methods. A hybrid staggered-grid layout in the vertical direction is implemented, which renders relatively simple resulting pressure equation as well as free surface closure. Numerical accuracy with respect to wave nonlinearity is tested against the fifth-order Stokes solution in a two-dimensional numerical wave tank. Numerical applications center on the evolution of nonlinear waves including diffraction and reflection affected by the curvature of side wall in a circular channel comparing with linear waves. Except for a highly nonlinear bichrmatic wave, the model's results are in good agreement with superimposed analytical solution that neglects nonlinear effects. Through the numerical simulation of the highly nonlinear bichramatic wave, the model shows its capability to investigate the evolution of nonlinear wave groups in a circular channel.