• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.28 no.1B
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• pp.111-114
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• 2008

Explicit solutions of the wave dispersion equation are developed using the recursive relation in terms of the relative water depth. We use the solutions of Eckart (1951), Hunt (1979), and the deep-water and shallow-water solutions for initial values of the solution. All the recursive solutions converge to the exact one except that with the initial value of deep-water solution. The solution with the initial value by Hunt converged much faster than the others. The recursive solutions may be obtained quickly and simply by a hand calculator. For the transformation of linear water waves in whole water depth, the use of the recursive solutions will yield more accurate analytical solutions than use of previously developed explicit solutions.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2014.06a
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• pp.258-259
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• 2014

It is needed the introduction of a new wave dispersion relationship considering the condition of seabed to examine closely the interaction between wave and seabed. In this study, a wave dispersion relationship is newly developed considering the condition of seabed such as permeability and displacement. Wave damping rates are compared and analysed according to the various soil parameters such as seabed soil thickness, elastic modulus, saturation, permeability, and porosity.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.281-289
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• 1994

An equation set of nonlinear model for regular/irregular waves presented in this study can be applied to waves travelling from deep water to shallow water, which is different from the Boussinesq equations. The presented equations completely satisfy the linear dispersion relationship and when expanded, they are proven to be consistent with the Boussinesq equation of several types. In addition, the position of averaged velocity below the still water level is estimated based on the linear wave theory.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2003.08a
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• pp.240-244
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• 2003

파랑의 변형 가운데 천수, 굴절, 회절, 반사를 예측하는 수학적 모형은 크게 두 가지 유형으로 나눌 수 있는데, 첫 번째로 파형경사인 ha(k：파수. $\alpha$：진폭)를 비선형의 매개변수로 하는 Stokes 파랑식이 있고, 두 번째로 상대파고인 $\alpha$/h를 비선형의 매개변수로 하고 상대수심인 kh를 분산성의 매개변수로 하는 천수방정식(Shallow water equation)이 있다. 파랑의 변형 가운데 천수, 굴절만을 예측하고 회절, 반사를 예측하지 못하는 수학적 모형으로는 에너지 이송방정식이 있다. (중략)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.307-317
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• 1993

The problem of sea wave transformation in the coastal zone taking into account effects of nonlinearity and disperison has been studied. Mathematical model for description of regular wave transformation is based on the method of nonlinear ray theory. The equations for rays and wave field have been produced. Nonlinear wave field is described by the modified Korteweg-de Vries equation. Some analytical solutions of this equation are obtained. Caustic transformation and dissipation effects are included in the mathematical model. Numerical algorithm of solution of the Korteweg-de Vries equation and its stability criterion are described. Results of nonlinear transformation of sea waves in the coastal zone are demonstrated.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2000.09a
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• pp.95-102
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• 2000

선형분산을 가정한 Berkhoff(1972)의 완경사방정식은 단일주기파(monochromaticwave)에 대해 심해로부터 천해까지 수심에 제한 없이 파랑의 변형을 해석할 수 있으나 식의 유도과정 중 바닥이 완경사(｜∇h｜/kh≪1) 라는 가정을 도입함으로써, 바닥곡률항(∇$^2$h)과 바닥경사의 제곱항(｜∇h｜$^2$)으로 대표되는 고차수심효과를 무시하였다. (중략)

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2003.08a
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• pp.53-57
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• 2003

불규칙파를 사용하여 설계 자료로 이용하기 위해서는 설계해역에서 불규칙파의 파랑변형을 예측할 수 있는 수치모형의 개발이 선행되어야 한다. 비선형 불규칙파의 거동을 해석할 수 있는 Boussinesq 방정식은 상대파고인 $\alpha$/h($\alpha$는 수면의 진폭, h는 수심임)를 비선형의 매개변수로 하고 상대수심인 kh(k는 파수임)를 분산성의 매개변수로 하여 섭동법을 사용하여 유도된다. Boussinesq 식은 수심이 일정한 경우에 Boussinesq(1872)가 비선형 항을 O($\alpha$/h,(kh)$^2$)까지 포함하여 처음으로 개발하였고 수심의 변화가 완만한 경우에 Peregrine(1967)이 개발하였다. (중략)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.29-37
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• 2007

In this study, transmission and reflection of multi-directional random waves propagating over impermeable submerged breakwaters are calculated by using eigenfunction expansion method. A series of mutiderectional random waves is generated by using the Bretschneider-Mitsuyasu frequency and Mitsuyasu type directional spectrum. Strong reflection is occurred at the Bragg reflection condition of the peak frequency. If the row of breakwaters is fixed at 3 and the relative height of breakwater is fixed at 0.6, more than 25% of incident wave energy is reflected to offshore. It is also found that the reflection of directionally spreading random waves increases as the maximum spreading parameter $s_{max}$ increases.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.369-381
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• 2017

It has been presumed that highly nonlinear skewed waves frequently observed in a surf zone could significantly influence the transmission behaviour via a porous wave breaker due to its larger inertia force than its nonlinear counterparts of zero skewness [Cnoidal waves]. In this study, in order to confirm this perception, a numerical simulation has been implemented for 6 waves the skewness of that range from 1.02 to 1.032. A numerical simulation are based on the Tool Box called as the ihFoam that has its roots on the OpenFoam. Skewed waves are guided by the shoal of 1:30 slope, and the flow in the porous media are analyzed by adding the additional damping term into the RANS (Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes equation). Numerical results show that the highly nonlinear skewed waves are of higher transmitted ratio than its counterparts due to its stronger inertia force. In this study, in order to see whether or not the damping at the porous structure has an effect on the wave celerity, we also derived the dispersive relationships of Nonlinear Shallow Water Eq. [NSW] with damping at the porous structure being accounted. The newly derived dispersive relationships shows that the phase lag between the damping friction and the free surface elevation due to waves significantly influence the wave celerity.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.158-168
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• 2001

A numerical model based on the wide-angle parabolic approximation equation is developed for the accurate simulation of the directional spreading and partial breaking of irregular waves. This model disintegrates the irregular waves into a series of monochromatic wave components, and the simultaneous calculations are made for each wave component. Then, the computed wave components are superposed to get the wave height of irregular waves. To consider the partial breaking of irregular waves in the computation the amount of energy dissipation due to breaking is estimated using the superposed wave height. The accuracy of the developed model is tested by comparing the numerical results with the experimental measurements reported earlier. In the case of non-breaking waves a considerable accuracy of the model is observed for both regular and irregular waves. On the contrary it is found that the accuracy is significantly degenerated for the case of breaking waves. Some analyses for the accuracy degeneration are presented.