• Water for future
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.39-48
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• 1993

Since major reason of disaster in coastal area is wave action, prediction of wave deformation is one of the most important problems to ocean engineers. Wave deformations are due to physical factors such as shoaling effect, reflection, diffraction, refraction, scattering and radiation etc. Recently, numerical models are widely utilized to calculate wave deformation. In this study, the mild slope equation was used in calculatin gwave deformation which considers diffraction and refraction. In order to slove the governing equation, finite element method is introduced. Even though this method has some difficulties, it is proved to predict the wave deformation accurately even in complicated boundary conditions. To verify the validity of the numerical calculation, experiments were carried out in a model harbour of rectangular shape which has mild slope bottom. The results by F.E.M. are compared with those of both Lee's method and the experiment. The results of these three methods show reasonable agreement.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.51-58
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• 2003

The magnitude of evanescent modes in terms of dynamics it investigated in case that the transformation of water waves is predicted by the linear wave theory. For the waves propagating over two steps, the eigenfunction expansion method is used to predict the amplitudes of reflected and transmitted waves by the component of evanescent modes as well as propagating modes. Then. the relative importance of evanescent modes to the propagating modes is investigated. The numerical experiments find that the evanescent modes are pronounced at the relative water depth of k$_1$h$_1$＝0.11$\pi$ and the water depth ratio of h$_2$/h$_1$ close to zero.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.42 no.12
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• pp.1125-1133
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• 2009

Evanescent modes which are the other solutions of the Laplace equation for the linear dispersion equation may affect the wave transformation especially when a water depth varies abruptly. In this study, the effects of evanescent modes for a three-dimensional depression of seabed are investigated by using the eigenfunction expansion method. A convergence test is first carried out by changing numbers of domains and evanescent modes. The wave transformation for various depressions of seabed is then calculated under condition that the solution of the eigenfunction expansion method is converged.

• Journal of the Korea Institute of Information and Communication Engineering
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.440-447
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• 2012

Numerical model experiments of wave transformation due to the reclamation and the construction of breakwater in case of 50 years design wave were performed using time dependent mild slope equation included shoaling, refraction, diffraction, reflection and wave breaking. As waves propagate to the shore, wave height gradually diminishes by the bottom friction and wave breaking etc.. After the reclamation and the construction of 75 m length breakwater, wave height distributions in the lee of breakwater have the range of 29~128 cm. To make better the harbor tranquility the length of breakwater needs to extend more than 100 m. After the construction of breakwater, wave height in the lee of the structure was deduced over 80%.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.135-140
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• 1995

The procedure of wave energy dissipation due to breaking has been investigated with trains of the regular wave. To obtain the data for wave breaking and its deformation, experiments have been conducted by utilizing a horizontal step adjoining to a combined slope of 1/20 and 1/10. After breaking the wave height decreases by dissipation but attains a stable value at some distance from the breaking point Experimental results show that the stable wave is considerably affected by the wave period. The study gives the general form of stable wave height A new one-dimensional wave deformation model is proposed. being coupled with an approximated shoaling coefficient before wave breaking and the new energy dissipation term after breaking. It was compared with the experimental data. It predicts well the wave height deformation before and after wave breaking even on the abrupt change of the depth.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.146-150
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• 1996

The waves are most important dynamical factors for the analyses of structural stability and topographical changes on coastal engineering field. However, wind-generated waves are very irregular in shape and transformed through refraction, diffraction and shoaling when they propagate into shallow water where bottom topography and water depth vary significantly. Recently, Vincent and Briggs (1989) reported hydraulic model experiments for the transformation of monochromatic and directionally-spread irregular waves passing over a submerged elliptical mound. They concluded that for the case of combined refraction-diffraction of waves by a shoal, the propagation characteristics of the irregular and equivalent regular wave conditions can be vastly different. On the irregular wave transformation have been made theoretical and numerical studies for several years. Although theoretical and laboratory studies on wave transformation have progressed considerably, field measurement and comparison of numerical results with related theories are still necessary for the prediction of the phenomena in reality. In this study, field measurement of both incident and transformed waves in Youngil Bay were made using various kinds of equipments, and numerical computations were made on the transformed frequency spectra of large waves propagating over the shoal using Chae and Jeong's (1992) elliptic model. It is shown that this model results agree very well with field data, and thus the applicability of the model is now validated.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.313-320
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• 1995

A numerical analysis on the wave deformation in the shallow water region is performed for the case of two intersecting wave trains of the same frequency on uniformly sloping beaches. This model is based on the consideration of wave energy balance and wave action conservation, and iteratively solved the set of conservation equations of both mass and horizontal momentum. Using the computed results, the wave deformations in accordance with the variation of the parameters luck as incident wave angie and wave height in deep water which influences the variation of wave hight and mean water level under the intersecting wave trains in the shallow water region. are considered.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.91-107
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• 2009

In order to compute linear wave transformation over a single step bottom, both variational approximation and eigenfunction expansion method are used. Both numerical results are in good agreement for reflection and transmission coefficients, surface displacement respectively. However x velocity profiles at the boundary of step are seen to be different to each other even though x velocity matching condition is used.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.553-563
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• 2008

If an arbitrary topography is approximated to a number of vertical steps, both variational approximation and eigenfunction expansion method can be used to compute linear wave transformation over the bottom. In this study a scatterer method associated with variational approximation is proposed to calculate reflection and transmission coefficients. Present method may be shown to be more simple and direct than the successive-application-matrix method by O'Hare and Davies. And Several numerical examples are given which are in good agreement with existing results.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2011.11a
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• pp.128-130
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• 2011

플로팅 구조물은 파랑하중의 영향에 따라 함체가 변형하게 되며, 이러한 변형이 상부구조물에 영향을 주게 된다. 함체의 강성변화 및 파랑의 주기변화에 따라 해석을 수행한 결과 함체의 강성이 증가할수록 모멘트는 감소하며, 축력에 대한 영향은 미미하다. 함체의 강성이 같다면 파랑의 주기가 길어질수록 모멘트는 증가한다.