• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제35권4호
• /
• pp.421-430
• /
• 2011

This study suggests the proper collar laying amount to be actively used in the clothing industry by identifying the characteristics of collar and other related components according to the collar laying amount. This study comparatively analyzed the characteristics of each collar laying amount (2cm, 2.5cm, 3cm, 3.5cm, 4cm, and 4.5cm) after making 6 tailored jackets. The results are as follows: 1. The best shape of collar and lapel appeared when the collar laying amount was 3cm and 3.5cm. 2. Depending on the collar laying amount, the shape of collar, roll line form of collar and lapel, collar width, collar stand, the position and width of roll line changed. As the collar laying amount increased, the length of collar edge became longer, and the collar stand decreased. In case the collar laying amount was small (2cm, 2.5cm), the width of collar and lapel became narrower. On the contrary, when it is large (4cm, 4.5cm), the width of collar and lapel became wider. 3. Collar laying amount as well as the length of the neck line of collar affected the shape of the collar roll line around the neck.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제34권4호
• /
• pp.617-627
• /
• 2010

This study selected and compared 7 tailored collar making factors from 15 clothing construction university textbooks. According to the results, in 15 clothing construction textbooks, the neckline of a tailored collar was drawn at the same length as the back neck circumference of the bodice and the length of collar stand was 3cm in 10 textbooks. In addition, the length of the collar laying varied between 2cm and 4.5cm regardless of the width of the upper collar or the textile thickness. In 7 out of the 15 textbooks, the gorge line of the collar was drawn by illustrating the collar pattern on the bodice based on the roll line and then copying it symmetrically. On the other hand, the pattern of upper collar was made in 5 ways; and 2 books did not give any explanation in the sections dealing with patterns or sewing. In addition, 6 textbooks explained that inner and outer collars are sewn with a difference. The lapel pattern of the facing part was made in 4 ways; in addition, 3 textbooks did not provide an explanation and 4 books explained that the difference is given in the sewing. The textile thickness and elasticity need to be considered in collar pattern making; however, they were not specifically mentioned in most of the textbooks.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제31권5호
• /
• pp.640-650
• /
• 2023

This study aimed to suggest a suitable collar pattern by visually evaluating the appearance of the amount of collar drape by the starting position of the lapel line of a double-breasted tailored jacket using a 3d virtual fitting program. It created an avatar based on the mean size of women in their 20s (the 8th Size Korea) using clo network (double fastening: 10cm, collar width: 4.5cm, collar stand: 3cm, and lapel width: 8.5cm). The starting of the lapel twist line was waistline level, the 1/2 level of bustline and waistline, or bustline level, and collar laying amount was 4.5, 5.5, 6.5, or 7.5cm. It was evaluated by garment construction experts using 5, 6, and 4 items on the front, sides, and back, respectively. Descriptive statistics, F-test, Duncan-test, and reliability analysis were conducted using SPSS 22. When collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. Under waist line, when collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. When collar laying amount was large, the collar's outline length increased, resulting in unnecessary wrinkles from the neckline to the lapel, affecting the overall collar appearance. When collar laying amount was the smallest, the collar was lifted and the width was narrowed, exposing the seam connecting the collar and neckline. The length of the collar's outline varied depending on collar laying amount, which was important to make the outline sit comfortably on the body.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국복식학회 2004년도 제29회 정기총회 및 춘계학술대회
• /
• pp.49-49
• /
• 2004

현대는 대량생산에 의한 기성복이 보편화됨에 따라 불특정 다수인 소비자의 체형과 요구에 적합한 의복을 빠른 시간 내에 생산하기 위해서는 정확한 패턴제작과 소재 및 봉제 요소들이 충분히 고려되어야 한다. 패션산업 현장에서 패턴을 이해하지 않고서는 디자인이 제 기능을 발휘하기 어렵다. (중략)

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제13권5호
• /
• pp.37-44
• /
• 2009

As the modern society has become highly industrialized and functionalized, the entry of women in public affairs has become brisk and extensive, and the studies of jackets which can satisfy the functions and designs for various activities have become important. Especially in the tailored collar which is the typical collar for female jackets, the studies such as scientific original form design, and design evaluation through analyzing functionality and sensitivity and others must be systematically carried out. In this study, therefore, the objective was placed in examining the actual state of the production of the tailored collar in the field of production first, and inquiring the general theories on the constituent elements of tailored-collar and production methods by analyzing it and comparing it with the educational tailored-collar production methods. First, in regard to the relation between the collar and the length of the backside neck of the bodice, in most cases, they were employing the method to enlarge the length of the backside neck of the bodice by shortening the length of the neck-base girth. That is, they were processing in order that the self collar band inside of the roll line and the fall of the collar can make a soft curved line. Second, when producing tailored-collar patterns, it is desirable to very the inclination according to the breath of the collar or thickness of the fabric because the stability of the inclination of the collar differs depending on the condition the collar is set, the girth of the collar edge. the broader the breath of the collar becomes, the thicker the fabric becomes, and the more the cloth is against the cold, it is necessary to make the inclination larger. Third, in the size relation between the upper collar and under collar, when sewing collars, it becomes thick and stabilized as it goes from the part in which extra pieces were put to the part in which extra pieces are not put. So you must make the upper collar larger by putting in extra pieces. The amount to be put in differs depending on characteristics of the materials.

• 복식
• /
• 제66권4호
• /
• pp.146-165
• /
• 2016

The aim of the study is to propose ways to improve the break line fit of women's tailored collar vests by modifying the patternmaking process. The study explored the fit effects of experimental vests with a focus on 3 different breast sizes, A, B, and C cups. Women in the ages between 20 and 24 in South Korea were targeted. In order to carry out the objective, the study implemented separate girth measurements for the front and the back of the tailored collar vests, and also allocated different dart amounts on the lapel through the break line according to the different breast cup sizes. The study adopted a 5-point rating scale to perform evaluation of the different fit effects caused by the varying dart amounts given on the experimental vests' break lines. This evaluation was carried out by apparel pattern experts. The results derived from the study were as follows: first, the implementation of separate girth measurements provided originality to the study, as the application of different measurements for the waist back length and the neck shoulder point-to-breast point-to-waist line led to the front panels of the experimental vests having varying slack amounts. Second, break line dart was applied in three different amounts, 0.5, 1.0, and 1.5cm respectively according to A, B and C breast sizes, and as the dart amount increased, extra ease on the break lines was reduced. The dart was applied on the edge lines of the lapel and it was applied from a point which was 6cm above the breast point to the end of the princess line for all the breast cup sizes.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제33권6호
• /
• pp.990-1001
• /
• 2009

본 연구는 지각자의 성별, 의복, 헤어스타일이 남성의 전문성 및 선호도의 시각적 평가에 미치는 영향을 조사하는데 그 목적이 있었다. 연구방법은 준실험방법이었으며, 실험설계는 $2\times8\times2$(지각자의 성별$\times$의복$\times$헤어스타일)의 요인설계를 사용하였다. 자극물은 20대 남성의 사진 16장이었다. 의복은 베이지색과 남색의 테일러드 칼라 재킷, 베이지색, 남색, 빨강색의 점퍼와 스웨터였고, 하의는 청바지를 착용하였다. 헤어스타일은 길이에 따라 짧은형과 중간형으로 구분하였다. 조사대상자는 서울지역의 남성 208명과 여성 223명이었다. 청바지와 함께 베이지색 스웨터를 착용하는 것은 지성적 이미지가 높게 보였고, 빨강색 점퍼의 착용은 지성적 이미지가 낮게 보였으며, 베이지색 재킷은 역능적 이미지가 낮게 평가되었다. 남성의 짧은 헤어스타일은 중간형 헤어스타일보다 전문성이 높게 평가되었다. 남자 지각자는 여자보다 짧은 헤어스타일을 더 선호하였으나 여자는 헤어스타일 선호도가 유사하였다. 여자는 테일러드 칼라의 재킷과 수티앵 칼라의 점퍼에 대한 선호도가 유사하였으나 남자는 재킷보다 점퍼의 선호도가 더 높았다. 베이지색 재킷에는 중간형 헤어스타일, 빨강 스웨터에는 짧은 헤어스타일이 전문성이 높게 평가되었다. 남자 지각자는 청바지에 수티앵 칼라의 점퍼를 착용한 것을 청바지에 테일러드 칼라의 재킷을 착용한 것보다 더 긍정적으로 평가함으로써 남자가 여자보다 옷차림에 대해 보수적인 태도를 나타냈다. 또한 청바지 차림에서는 점퍼를 입고 짧은 헤어스타일을 한 남자가 긍정적으로 평가되었고, 재킷을 입고 중간형 헤어스타일을 한 남자는 부정적으로 지각되었다. 결론적으로 베이지색 재킷에는 중간형 머리, 빨강 스웨터에는 짧은형 머리가 전문성이 높게 보였으므로 의복과 헤어스타일이 상호작용하여 전문성 평가에 영향을 준다고 할 수 있다.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제21권8호
• /
• pp.1376-1386
• /
• 1997

The purpose of this study is to investigate how one's visual evaluations are affected by variations in internal designs of tailored jackets. Major findings are: 1. Of the 35 pairs of adjectives, the factor analysis singled out the following five major factors (total variance of 55.62%): elegance, maturity, neatness, hard/softness, and evaluation. 2. The image of tailored jackets were found to be significantly affected by the length of its collar: jackets with long collar were perceived elegant, graceful, neat, mature and slim. 3. The number of buttons was also found to have significant impact on the image of tailored jackets: A one-button jacket, single or double, was perceived graceful, mature, formal, neat, natural, brisk, slim and so on. Its image deteriorated as the number of buttons increased. 4. Single jackets were found to be significantly different from Double jacket in their images. The former were perceived elegant, neat, and natural.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제14권6호
• /
• pp.952-959
• /
• 2012

This study looks into the changes in collar patterns in tailored jackets with different numbers of buttons. The study discusses the pattern design method of tailored colors in 4 different styles, such as the effect of the number of buttons of tailored jackets on collar width and length, lapel width and length, and angle of lapel and overall balance in design. Through the first dress experiment, patterns were adjusted and corrected. The second dress experiment was conducted with the modified experimental clothes. The results of comparison and analysis are as follows. The 1 button tailored jacket was most preferred for its beautiful expression and overall balance of upper color and lapel when its lapel width was 7.5 cm. The second most preferred one was the 2 button tailored jacket with lapel width of 8 cm, and the 3 button jacket showed relatively good balance when its lapel width was 7.5 cm. The 4 button tailored jacket showed a bad balance in collar and button. Also, its overall silhouette was disappointing and thus was less preferred than others. For smaller number of buttons, the angle of lapel's break line increased, thus displaying a more refined and slim silhouette. On the other hand, the angle of lapel's break line decreased for greater number of buttons, thus displaying a dull and fat image. As a result, the jacket with many buttons was less preferred.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국복식학회 2003년도 춘계학술대회
• /
• pp.34-34
• /
• 2003

본 연구는 체형의 특성이 현저히 나타나는 40~50대의 Plus-size 여성을 대상으로 체형의 특징이 고려된 치수체계에 대해 맞음새가 우수한 재킷을 개발하고, 이 원형을 토대로 하여 체형의 단점을 보완할 시각적 효과를 연구하기 위해 Plus-size에 해당하는 여성을 선정하여 수트(suit)를 제작한 후 착의 평가하여 Plus-size에 적합한 수트를 제안하는데 목적을 두고 있다. 결과를 요약하면 다음과 같다. 1. Plus-size 여성의 착용실태를 파악하기 위해 실시한 착용실태 조사는 판매자의 측면의 심층면접과 소비자 측면의 착장조사로 구분하여 조사하고 분석하였다. 착용실태조사 결과, Plus-size 여성은 의복구매시 맞음새와 편안함을 중시하고 상완부와 어깨의 두께, 가슴둘레와 복부의 비만등의 체형단점을 갖게 되므로 판매자측에서는 의복제도 시에 등품, 앞품, 상완부, 복부의 여유분을 고려하고 있었다. 시각적 효과로는 세미피트 스타일의 프린세스 라인과 허리선+20, 30cm의 재킷길이, 그리고 테일러드 칼라, 스테인 칼라, 라운드 네크라인이 판매자과 소비자의 양측면에서 선호되고 있었다. 2. Plus-size 여성의 체형에 맞음새가 우수한 재킷원형을 개발하기 위해 Plus-size 여성복의 재킷 원형 중 4종의 기존원형을 선정하고, 착의 피험자 3인을 대상으로 3차에 걸친 착의실험을 통해 연구 원형을 개발하고 평가단을 구성해 객관적인 평가 33문항에 대한 외관 관능검사를 실시하였다. 1) 가슴둘레 여유분을 8~9cm, 허리둘레 여유분을 6~7cm, 엉덩이둘레 여유분을 6~8cm로 적용하여 맞음새를 향상시켜 날씬해 보이는 효과를 높였다. 2) 진동깊이 계산식은 (B/10+10.5)+2cm 적용하고, 진동두께 계산식은 (B/8-1.5)+2cm를 적용함으로써 진동깊이와 진동두께의 편차가 작아짐으로 인해 소매부위와 진동부위의 맞음새를 향상시켰다. 3) 가슴둘레의 증가에 따라 등길이에 앞길이 치수를 증가시키는 계산식을 설정하여 앞가슴둘레의 맞음새를 향상시켰다. 4) Plus-size여성의 경우 허리부분의 신체적합성을 높이기 위하여 사이드 판넬(side panel)의 재킷원형으로 하였다. 앞 허리와 배 부분의 지방 침착이 크므로 앞 허리둘레 다아트 폭과 앞판 사이드 판넬(side panel) 솔기 다아트 폭을 작게 설정하고, 뒤판 사이드 판넬 솔기 폭을 크게 설정하였다. 5) 어깨끝점 사이길이는 다른 부위의 체지방 침착과 같이 비례적으로 증가하지 않으므로 표준체형에 비해 좁게 설정하였다.