• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.18
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• pp.19-34
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• 2017

Analysis of the species of wood in the wooden materials and the chemical composition of the fabric of the clothing excavated from the tomb of Yi Jing (1580-1642) has determined that the wooden materials, including the coffin (內棺, naegwan), burial chamber(外棺, oegwan), chilseongpan(七星板, bottom-lining board), and fan-shaped slats were made of pine(Pinus densiflora). The analysis of the fabrics suggested that the cloth attached to the fan-shaped slats, the funeral banner with inscriptions, and the five pouches for the corpse (五囊, onang) were all made of silk. The jacket was made of plain-weave cotton, while the inner and outer cloth of the socks were made of cotton and hemp, respectively. Among the silk items, the pouches for the left and right feet (constituting the five pouches for the corpse) were made from a satin-weave figured silk, while the other silk items were made of ju(紬), or plain-weave silk fabric. Infrared analysis revealed that the fan-shaped slats were decorated with cloud patterns across the entire surface, while the funeral banner and the five pouches for the corpse bore ink inscriptions.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.21-27
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• 2012

In the Chosun period, the noble class usually buried the dead bodies in the lime-covered tomb. Recently their costumes are excavated while maintaining the shape. However, the textiles discovered from the inside have been degradated by a body and moisture. To conserve these textiles one of the most important thing is how to clean these textiles right after the excavation. The purpose of this study is to examine the effects of wet cleaning to minimize the color change of textile remains. For this purpose, silk and cotton were dyed with natural dyes (7 red, 1 blue, 6 yellow, 4 green and 4 purple colors), then they were kept for 6 months with pork meat at $10^{\circ}C$, and were washed by four cleaning solutions (water, anionic surfactant (SDS), non-ionic surfactant (Triton X-100) and natural surfactant (saponin)) at $20^{\circ}C$ and $40^{\circ}C$. The color change was evaluated by color difference (${\Delta}E$) between non-treated and after washed samples. From the results, it was found that the color changes are significantly different depending on the washing temperature, textile material, the cleaning agents and the type of dyes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.81-95
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to categorize the typs of fabrics and to analyze weaving method and pattern design on the silk fabrics from Jang-Gi Jung s tomb. The conclusions of this research are as follows. 1) Among the 32 pieces of excavated clothes, 90% of them were made of silk fabric and 65% used patterned silk. I would assume, therefore, that the tomb was owned by a person of higher society who could afford the best clothes of the time. 2) The weaving methods of silk include tabby, twill damask with different direction (2/1 warp faced ground, 1/3$\cdot$1/4 weft faced pathern), self-patterned satin damask (4/1 warp faces ground, 1/4 weft faced pattern), and brocaded satin damask. 3) The arrangement of the motifs and the kinds of patterns on these silk fabric can be divided into two categories: first group is allover arrangement of peony or lotus and second group is the scattered arrangement of omen of luck. 4) Two pieces of fabric was stamped and the letters of the stamp make me to think about the possibility that the fabrics are from China. But to make this paint clear more relics of this kind should be excavated so that further research can be done.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.2
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• pp.9-17
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• 2000

This is a case study of conservation treatment of the textiles and costumes excavated from Soonchun Park's tomb in Eumsung, North Chungcheong province. When excavated, the objects were found fairly wet and badly smelled since they decayed in wooden coffin. They were wet-treated with deionized water to remove dirt and dried at room temperature, during which the objects were blocked and flattened to keep them in shape. Silk crepeline was under-layed and stitched to the damaged areas with silk-hair threads. Each costume was individually stored in a tray made of paulownia wood and flat textiles were rolled up in paper cylinders with 6 and 10 cm in diameter. Thymol was used to prevent microorganisms.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.679-690
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• 1998

미국 오하이오주 남서쪽에 위치한 Seip 토루군(100 B.C.-A.D. 500경)의 출토유물들에 대하여 현미경으로 관찰되는 인피섬유의 형태학적 손상을 분석하였다. 형태학적 손상이란 외부로부터의 물리적 혹은 화학적 요인에 의해 섬유은 표면과 내면에 발생하는 형태변형을 말한다. Seip직물에 포함된 인피섬유의 형태학적 손상 정도는 본 연구를 위해 제작된 인피섬유손상지로(IBFM)의 점수의 합으로 나타내었다. Seip직물들은 육안으로 보았을 때 우선 숯과 같이 검은 색을 띄고 있는 직물들과 그렇지 않은 직물군으로 분류되었는데 발굴보고서에 설명된 시신과 관련 부장품들의 수습상황으로 미루어 볼 때 검게 된 직물군은 부분적으로 하장된 시신의 부장품이었으며 검게 되지 않은 직물군은 일반매장된 시신의 부장품으로 보였다. Seip직물들은 다시 서로 다른 조직에 따라 분류되는 직물군으로 나뉘어 질 수 있었는데 본 연구에서는 이들 중 가장 빈번히 보이는 교차쌍 위사 트와인조직(Spaced alternate-pair weft-twining)으로 만들어진 직물군과 그 밖의 조직으로 되어 있는 직물군으로 나누고 이들을 각각 얼터씨이트(Alternate)와 기타조직(Pooled)으로 명명하였다. 본 연구에서는 Seip직물들 간에 매장법에 의해 손상정도의 차이가 발생했으며 특히 부븐적으로 화장된 직물과 그대로 묻혀진 직물들 간에 섬유손상 정도의 차이가 있었을 것으로 좌고 이를 확인하기 위해 검게된 직물군과 검게 되지 않은 직물군 간에, 그리고 얼터네이트와 기타조직으로된 직물군들 간에 IBFM 점수의 차이가 있는지 조사하였다. 섬유의 형태학적 손상은 광학현미경과 주사전자현미경을 사용하여 분석하였으며 분석에 이용된 총 샘플수는 총 132개였다. 수집된 데이터는 t-test를 이응하여 분석 하였다. T-test의 분석결과 Seip 직물들은 검게된 직물군과 검게되지 않은 직물군 사이에서 유의한 손상 정도의 차이를 볼 수 있었으며 반면에 조직에 따른 분류에서는 유의한 차이를 볼 수 없었다. IBFM의 평군점수를 비교하면 검게된 직물군보다 검게되지 않은 직물군이 더 높은 점수를 나타내어 후자가 더 많이 손상된 것으로 보여졌다. 7개의 손상형태를 독칩적으로 보았을 때 섬유속의 분리정도 (degree of bundle separation) , 횡금(transverse crack) , 그리고 횡선 (transverse striations) 이 검게된 직물군과 검게 되지 않은 직물군 사이에서, 섬유속의 분리정도, 종금(lengthwise striations)과 횡금이 얼터네이트와 기타조직 사이에서 각각 유의한 차이를 보였다.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.956-966
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• 2003

The purpose of study is to find out a suitable cleaning method for excavated textiles of Jeon-ui Lee(1570∼1647). The textiles were excavated from her tomb in 1997, and her descendents put them in a box without any treatment and kept them in the warehouse since then. We used two kinds of silk as samples, non-dyed and dyed textile. The experiment was performed by 8 kinds of wet cleaning and dry cleaning methods, an ultrasonic cleaner was used in the wet cleaning, decane and perchloroethylene were used as solvents in the dry cleaning. The use of the ultrasonic cleaner in the wet cleaning method did not show any damage to the fibers of the textiles and it not only cleaned well but also was safe for the fugitive dyes. It resulted in more effective cleaning when the detergent was used together. Therefore, it is effective to use the ultrasonic cleaning on the delicate historical textiles and helpful to the operator's safety and environment.

• 한국문화재보존과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2003.03a
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• pp.13-17
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• 2003

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2004.08a
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• pp.340-341
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• 2004

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.2 s.150
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• pp.338-347
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• 2006

Due to the complex environment in the ground, most of excavated costumes undergo deterioration and color change. To reduce the extent and intensity of the staining and to recover the original color or gray fabrics of excavated costumes, bleaching would be required. Excavated historical costumes are very delicate in nature, therefore, special care is needed in bleaching process. Several bleaching agents were selected and applied to the control cotton fabric and pre-deteriorated cotton fabrics to examine the change of color and physical properties after bleaching. A dual bleaching using hydrogen peroxide and sodiumborohydride showed the superior bleaching effect to the other bleaching agents. The strength of pre-deteriorated fabrics slightly increased after dual bleaching. The six historical costumes which belonged to General Duk-Ryung Kim's nephew's wife were dual bleached. They became remarkably cleaned and brightened. The treatments improved the appearance of costumes. By microscopic investigation, it is found that costumes did not show the damage after treatment. In conclusion, it is possible to bleach historical textiles without damage using appropriate bleaching agents like hydrogen peroxide and sodiumborohydride.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.12
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• pp.2002-2010
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• 2009

The degradation behavior of berberine is examined using GC-MS to select the fingerprint products that can be used to identify berberine dye in badly faded archaeological textiles. A total of $100^{\circ}C$ thermal and $H_2O_2/UV/O_2$ degradation systems were used to degrade berberine chloride 0.1% solution up to 408 hours. The samples were analyzed using the GC-MS. Dihydroberberine, 2-pteridinamine, 6,7-dimethyl-N-[(trimethylsilyl) oxy]-, and 8-methoxy-11-[3-methylbutyl]-11H-indolo[3,2-c]-quinoline, 5-oxide were detected as the major products of thermal degradation and identified as the fingerprint products for berberine dye at the early stage of degradation. Isobenzofuran-1,3-dione,4,5-dimethoxy-, 9H-fluorene,3,6-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-,1,3-dioxolo[4,5-g]isoquinolin-5(6H)-one,7,8-dihydro-, and 3-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyanisole were detected as the major products generated by the $H_2O_2/UV/O_2$ degradation and identified as the fingerprint products for berberine dye under severe degradation conditions.