• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.11-18
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• 2002

Directional breaking waves are generated by the component wave focusing both in direction and frequency based on constant wave steepness and constant wave amplitude spectrum models. The generated breaking waves are classified in the incipient, single and multi breaking waves. The characteristics of directional breaking waves are investigated in terms of surface profile parameters of wave crest steepness and asymmetry. The evolution of breaking wave characteristics is analyzed in a view of focusing efficiency. It shows that the front steepness and vertical asymmetry play an important role in breaking process, while the crest rear steepness and horizontal asymmetry are nearly constant during the process. The superposition of directional components greatly enhances the focusing efficiency and it suggests that characteristics of directional breaking waves may significantly different from uni-directional ones.

• Journal of the Korea Convergence Society
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.201-206
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• 2019

The flooding and overtopping due to unexpected large ocean wave may occur serious problems to environments and structures. Generally fixed wave breakers and several structures were installed to prevent such damages, however, they may affect to environments and charted path of ships badly. In this regard, new type of initial wave breaker was investigated in both of experimentally and numerically. For the experiments, conceptual devices were built by authors with stereo vision system. The moving particle semi-implicit method was adopted for simulation. It is revealed that the initial wave breaker reduce the damages from ocean waves by energy dissipated earlier. Furthermore, the effects of position of the initial wave breaker was also considered.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.39 no.4
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• pp.1-10
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• 2002

For the time-domain simulation of incipient breaking waves, usually the boundary integral method has been used so far, and it seems to be successful except a problem of too much computation time. The present paper shows a new computation technique for the simulation of breaking wave experiment. This technique uses the high-order spectral/boundary element method and the boundary integral method in sequence, and reduces the computation time remarkably. The wave generation and energy focusing process is efficiently simulated by the high-order spectral/boundary element method. Only the wave over-turning process is simulated by the boundary integral method. In the example calculation result, salient features of breaking waves such as high particle velocities and accelerations are shown.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1993.07a
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• pp.146-151
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• 1993

쇄파대에서 발생되는 연안류의 분포는 완만한 곡선분포를 보이는데 단순파인 경우이의 해석은 확산계수의 도입으로만 가능하다는 점은 널리 알려진 사실이다. Harris(1967)는 현장관측과 수조실험으로 이 분야 초기연구로서 쇄파대 확산의 변이를 무시하고 평균확산계수치만을 고려하였다. 연안류해석의 확고한 이론적 기초를 마련한 Longuet-Higgins(1970)는 그의 이론식 도출고정에서 확산계수 도입의 필요성을 인식하였으며, 특성길이로서 연안선으로부터의 거리를 택하고 특성속도로서 파속을 택하였으며 쇄파대내에서 파속은 군속도와 같다고 가정하였다. (중략)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.157-163
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• 1994

An experimental study of deep-water breaking waves is performed by nonlinear wave evolution as well as superposition of different wave frequencies. Two-dimensional and three-dimensional wave instabilities and breakings are observed in nonlinear wave evolution. The wave energy evolves with almost the same initial wave energy before breaking but decreases significantly after breaking process. Large spilling and plunging waves are generated near e expected breaking location by means of faster waves overtaking slow waves at a certain point. More energy loss in vigorous plunging breakers is observed through breaking process.

• Journal of Advanced Marine Engineering and Technology
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.873-879
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• 2009

The steady breakers at an infant stage are investigated through the numerical simulation. The appearing condition and characteristics of the sub-breaking waves are reviewed by analysing bow waves. The instability analysis is possibly done through the relationship between the free-surface curvature and circumferential force, which is obtained from the momentum equations. Navier-Stokes equations are solved by a finite difference method where the body-fitted coordinate system, the wall function and the advanced mesh system are invoked. The numerical result shows that the gradient of M/$U_s$ is greatly influenced by the Froude number and the decrease of M/$U_s$ indicates that the flows are unstable. Additionally flows with plunging or spilling are simulated successfully, but the application of breakers to the severely broken wave still remains to be settled in the future.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.75-80
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• 1996

The importance of the impact force on the vertical offshore circular structure member in the surf zone due to the breaking wave has been recognized recently. In this paper characteristics of breaking wave forces and the corresponding estimation procedures for them are investigated. For the characterization of the wave forces, three parts, drag force, inertia force, impact force are categorized and identified, respectively. Among them the impact force is maimly studied and the concise form of the force is proposed with the application scheme for the design of offshore circular structure member. The resulting form porposed here for impact force is well coincided with former research results by other people. Except the impact force, so called Morison equation can be employed for the common offshore structure design. The drag force and inertia force are represented as convertionally for the profile except the breaking part. In the numerical example, for thpical sea condition and the member size, the proposed procedures for the breaking wave forces calculation are demonstrated. It is found that the impact force is the most deminant one comparing with inertia and drag forces in the surf zone.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.57-69
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• 1995

The development of a finite difference model for cross-shore sediment transport prediction in the surf tone due to the storm surge event is presented in this paper. Using the inhomogeneous diffusion equation with moving boundaries. the present numerical model is found to be robust and efficient and does not possess a number of restrictions imposed in Kriebel and Dean's(1985) numerical model. Our numerical model is validated through comparison with the analytical solution. the data of a large-scale experiment and the field data of Hurricane Eloise. The Present model if able to predict the averaged volumetric erosion rate of a beach due to the time-varying real storm surge hydrographs and satisfies the conservation of sediment between eroded volume in the onshore region and deposited volume in the offshore region. In addition. the present model is able to reasonably predict the recession of a beach with wide berm and dune. and can describe the change of a breaking point by the offshore deposition. From the sensitivity analysis or the present numerical model with various input parameters, it is concluded that the present numerical model is able to analyze the beach change in a reliable manner including the effects of different sizes of sediments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fisheries and Ocean Technology
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• v.40 no.4
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• pp.304-310
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• 2004

Resistance performance of small size fishing vessel is experimentally investigated to find out the effect of fore-body shape and trim for the better hull from development. The tests are performed for five different cases in the high speed circulating water channel(CWC). Wave patterns are observed to investigate the relation between the resistance performance and the wave characteristics.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.85-98
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• 1998

본 논문의 수치해법은 경계치문제를 풀기 위하여 코시이론(Cauchy's theorem)을 사용하였다. 경계치문제는 완전한 물체표면조건과 자유표면조건을 만족시키는 초기치문제로 귀결된다. 현 수치해법에서 무한영역은 수치계산 영역인 비선형 영역과 선형 자유표면조건을 만족하는 선형영역으로 나누어진다. 선형영역의 해는 과도 그린(Green)함수를 사용하여 정합조건을 부과함으로써, 수치계산은 비선형 영역에서만 수행된다. 본 논문에서 저자는 수치계산 영역에서 코시이론을 사용하여 적분방정식을 도출하였고, 무한영역의 해는 정합면에서 과도 그린함수를 사용하여 표현하였다. 본 수치계산에서 자유표면에 요소 재분배법을 적용함으로써 쇄파현상에 대해서도 안정적인 수치해석을 할 수 있었다. 본 논문에서 개발된 수치방법을 적용한 문제는 다음과 같다. 첫째는 자유표면에서 실린더가 강제동요하는 경우에 자유표면형상과 힘을 계산하여 이전의 실험치 및 계산치와 비교하였다. 두번째로는 실린더가 자유수면하에서 일정한 속도로 항주하는 경우에는 조파저항과 양력을 계산하여 고차 스펙트럴법과 비교하였다.