• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.76-83
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• 1993

In this study, an approximate method for calculating the directional spectrum of waves encountering a current in shallow water is developed. The wave trains in tile directional spectrum are assumed to be linear and Gaussian; development of the spectrum requires that the waves also be short crested. The Miche's breaking criterion is imposed to determine the upper limit of wave height and to establish an expression for the breaking wave elevation in terms of the ideal wave's elevation and the second time derivative of wave elevation. Two examples are given; one for a Wallops directional spectrum encountering a shear current and another with an upwelling current.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1998.09a
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• pp.143-148
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• 1998

경사면 쇄파특성의 도출을 위한 기존의 연구는 주로 실험에 의존하여 왔다. 이들 실험적 연구들은 주로 임의 경사면에서 쇄파가 발생하는 수심과 쇄파고를 산출하는데 목적을 두었으며, CERC(1984)는 이들의 연구결과를 위합하여 쇄파제원을 산출할 수 있는 도표를 제시하였다. 본 연구에서는 수치조파경계와 천해 경사면으로 구성되는 파동장에서 경사면 쇄파거동에 대한 경계요소기법을 직접 수립하여 기법의 적용성을 세부적으로 고찰하기로 한다. (중략)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.148-156
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• 2008

WAM(WAve Model), deep water wave model has been extended to the region of shallow water, incorporating wave breaking, and triad wave interaction. To verify this model, two numerical simulations for hydraulic experiments of Chawla et al.(1998) and Beji and Battjes(1993) are performed. The computed results show good agreements with measured ones. To identify its applicability to real sea, it is applied to storm wave modelling for typhoon Maemi. Numerical results compared with measured ones at Geoje, Busan and Ulsan show reasonable wave height estimations.

• Korean Journal of Ichthyology
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.182-202
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• 1990

Gobiid fish were collected monthly in Cheonsu Bay by a beach seine from the shallow water and by an otter trawl from the deep water from September, 1984 to August, 1986. Seasonal variation in species composition and biology of the major species were examined with the data of length and age composition. Fourteen speices of gobies were identified. Gobiid fish were more abundant in the shallow water than in the deep water. In the shallow water, they constituted 66% and 39% of the fish collected in the mud flat and the sand beach, respectively. The suction discs of the gobies explains that they inhabit successfully in the surf zone where the wave action is strong. Of the major species, Chaenogobius mororanus predominated in the shallow mud flat. A large number of adults of this species were obtained in Spring and their juveniles were collected from Summer through Autumn. Favonigobius gymnauchen was abundant in the shallow water, especially in the sand beach. This fish seemed to spawn from May through June, about two months later than Chaenogobius mororanus. Acanthogobius hasta juveniles lived in the shallow water and moved into the deep water as the fish grew. Chaturichthys stigmatias was collected mainly in the deep zone.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2022.06a
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• pp.161-164
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• 2022

부유식 라이다는 해상풍력단지 조성시 필수적으로 수행하고 있는 풍황관측 업무에 새로운 패러다임을 제공하고 있는 시스템으로, 전통적으로 풍황관측을 수행하고 있던 해상기상관측탑을 대체하여 사업 초기의 대규모 공사를 획기적으로 축소하여 시간과 비용을 절약하고, 환경적 영향을 최소화 하며, 지역사회의 반발 요소까지 줄일 수 있어 해당 업계의 표준으로 자리잡고 있는 중이다. 다만 부표식의 동요에 따른 외란적 요소가 관측자료의 신뢰성에 영향을 미치는 만큼 안정적인 플랫폼의 설계 및 검증이 매우 중요한 상황이며, 국내에서는 해당기술에 대한 늦은 진입으로 인해 다수의 외산장비 제조사들이 국내시장까지 선점하고 있는 상황이다. 한국의 서해안은 천해 환경으로 조석차가 매우 커 지역에 따라 강한 조류가 반복적으로 나타나며, 계절별로 상이한 강한 에너지의 파랑이 형성되는 등 플랫폼에 안정도에 많은 영향을 미치는 바다 환경을 갖고 있다. 본 논문에서는 이러한 복잡한 환경적 특성을 갖고 있는 우리나라의 해역에 라이다 운영에 적합한 부표식에 대한 연구를 수행하며, 우선적으로 적용하였던 선박형 부표식의 최적화 설계 및 검증 사례를 소개하고, 향후 다양한 플랫폼 개발에 토대가 되는 중요 개념을 도출하고자 한다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1993.07a
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• pp.130-136
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• 1993

단주기파군에 의하여 발생되는 장주기파를 나타내는 용어로 surf-beats, edge파 그리고 평균수위강하(set-down 또는 group bounded long wave)등이 사용되어지고 있다. 이들의 발생성격에 대한 물리적 특성으로, surf-beats와 edge파는 일반적으로 천해역에서 발생하는 비선형간섭(쇄파특성) 및 해안선의 반사성과 관련있으며 평균수위강하는 단지 단주기파에 의하여 형성된 파군의 특성과 관련을 갖게 된다. (중략)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.57-65
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• 2007

Shallow water waves are hindcasted from sea wind fields, which include wave transformations such as shoaling, refraction, diffraction, reflection and wave breaking. In case of estimating sea wind field in shallow water, the sea wind revised from free wind obtained by the typhoon model is widely used. However, this method is not able to consider the effect of land topography on the wind field, which will be important factor for shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting. In this study, therefore, the effect of land topography on sea wind field in shallow water is investigated for shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting with high accuracy. The 3-D MASCON model is introduced to consider the influence of land topography on the wind field. And, for two areas divided by the topographical characteristics, i.e. shielded and opened coastal areas, sea wind field is examined by comparison between initial wind field by typhoon model and modified wind field by 3-D MASCON model. Finally, applying these sea wind fields to SWAN model, the results of shallow water wave calculated in shielded and opened coastal areas are compared, and, also, the effect of MASCON model on shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting is discussed.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.46 no.6
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• pp.483-490
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• 2022

Floating LiDAR is a system that provides a new paradigm for wind condition observation, which is essential when creating an offshore wind farm. As it can save time and money, minimize environmental impact, and even reduce backlash from local communities, it is emerging as the industry standard. However, the design and verification of a stable platform is very important, as disturbance factors caused by fluctuations of the buoy affect the reliability of observation data. In Korea, due to the nation's late entry into the technology, a number of foreign equipment manufacturers are dominating the domestic market. The west coast of Korea is a shallow sea environment with a very large tidal difference, so strong currents repeatedly appear depending on the region, and waves of strong energy that differ by season are formed. This paper conducted a study examining buoys suitable for LiDAR operation in the waters of Korea, which have such complex environmental characteristics. In this paper, we will introduce examples of optimized design and verification of ship-type buoys, which were applied first, and derive important concepts that will serve as the basis for the development of various platforms in the future.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.619-633
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• 1994

A wave deformation model for general purpose combined refraction, diffraction, and breaking is developed in the shallow water. A parabolic approximation equation considered a higher order diffraction term is derived from the previous mild slope equation. A wave energy dissipation term due to bottom friction and breaking is introduced from the turbulence model. The Crank-Nicoloson implicit scheme is used in the numerical calculation, then the solutions are compared with the various hydraulic experiment data in the circular, the elliptic shoal, and the surf zone. The wave height decay in the surf zone is sensitively affected by the incident wave steepness, and the wave height variation around the elliptic shoal is well explained by the non-linear dispersion relation and the wave energy dissipation term. The model is also applied to a field coastal area and reasonable results are obtained.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.15-21
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• 1989

A simple numerical refraction model is presented. The model takes into account refraction, shoaling and bottom dissipation. Eikonal equation and equation of energy conservation are discretized by an explicit finite-difference method, which provides wave angle and height at each grid point, respectively. Applications of the model were made to simple geometries as well as complex geometries, and some advantages on computing time and stability have been observed.