• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.111-124
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• 2015

This study inferred the symbolism of shaman's costume in China from shamanism and types of shaman's costume in Naje, Deokgang-hyun, Guiju-seong, China through field survey. Shamanism in China has complicated aspects due to negotiations with other culture for a long time while maintaining its own consistency based on ethnicity. Symbolism of shaman's costume in Naje, Guiju-seong, China is observed as follows. First, the shaman's costume in China appears differently from every Jangcha in relation to the position of god appearing in Jangcha when Tolosa takes the position of god as a symbol of sex and god. In Naje of China, the most important shaman's costume indicating the position of god has a unique mask for every deity. It communicates that Tolosa wearing a costume appropriate for the god of wine shall become the god in that Jangcha. Second, the shaman's costume in China has something to do with Yin-Yang and the five elements theory of Taoism as a symbol of shamanism visio of the universe and system of reason. Most of Tolosas hosting Naje are men but dress up as women by wearing Nagun looking like a skirt. Nagun is usually red, the color of Yang, which symbolizes that by wearing such costume that takes color of Yang, Tolosa expels an ominous thing by balancing yin and yang and taking god's strong power. Third, Tolosa takes an eight-breadth Nagun, as a symbol of people. An eight-breadth worn by Tolosa in Naje strengthens the spirit of union and fight of the Tujia nationality who live in Deokgang-hyun, Guiju-seong through folk legends. In this course, a symbolic meaning of the national spirit has been provided on an eight-breadth Nagun, a shaman's costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.9
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• pp.26-40
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is the Tibetan folk costumes'characteristics and change of design in stage. The subjects are the Tibetan costumes in the Spring Festival Gala of CCTV. The basic characteristics of Tibetan folk costumes are fat waist, long sleeves, overlap, and right ren. Tibetan costumes consist of Tibetan gowns, aprons, shirts, belts, Tibetan hats, headgear, ornaments, all of these compose the traditional image of the Tibetan people. Because of the long-term closed survival, the development of Tibetan costumes has no much vertical differences and changes. The costumes of Weizang(衛藏), Ali(阿里), Gongbu(工布), Kham(康巴), Amdo(安多) have different features which are divided according to different dialects. Study the changes of design Tibetan stage costumes from 25times, we can get that during the 1986~1992, people emphasis on the activities of dancers, styles are simple, just to grasp the characteristics of the Tibetan costumes. In the 1993~1999, the dancers put on the real-life Tibetan clothing on stages. By the 2000s to now, Tibetan stage costumes have much more changes in forms and colors which are more complete and complex. The types of Tibetan costumes include Tibetan all clothing, they all express the changed forms and colors without exception. So in this period are artistic Tibetan folk costumes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.124-140
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• 2023

This study analyzes traditional women's Hu costumes of the Tang dynasty, and deploys a creative fashion design to converge contemporary and traditional styles. In this costume, women wear a robe with striped or plain patterns in the lower part of the pants, and it appears frequently in red and yellow colors. Depending on the sleeve, it is either a round collar or a turn down collar robe. In the Hu hat, the huntuomao and juanyanxumao were leather and mili and weimao were used to prevent the sand from flowing. This study uses the CLO 3D program with the "moment" theme based on the Hu costume for women to deploy 4 pairs of fashion design and to produce works for 2 pairs. The 3D virtual clothing program demonstrates important effects in design deployment and pattern arrangement through its efficiency and convenience of clothing production. The CLO 3D program was closely combined with the 2D design and the 3D affect, and it heightened the efficiency in saving the processing time and energy of the sample clothes. Through facilitating the 3D digital fashion design, the production may reduce time needed and contribute to an effective economy, and it may compare digital fashion design to actual products as well as illustrate the potential of digital fashion design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.142-154
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• 2003

This study was conducted on the costume of the 6 minorities dwelling in Guizhou Province of China. The result of the study is summarized as follows. As Guizhou Province yields much silver, most of the minorities used silver ornaments a lot and dyed their garments by using indigo extracted from plants that grow in the area. The headdress was of style that for both men and women a long cloth is wound around a head in various ways. In some cases, women used cow's horn, pearl and silver ornaments. Most wore a short upper garment such as blouses with overlapping necks or blouses with diagonal on the front, and as a lower garment men and women wore trousers and skirts, respectively. As a way of ornament, embroidering, wax printing and weaving were commonly used, but pattern and color used in the ornament varied depending on the individual minorities.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.31-39
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• 2002

The analysis revealed that the pattern represent the function of written language, the Miao's idea of nature as tie object of worship and exorcism, and their primitive thinking. The patterns are chiefly embroidered collars, shoulders of blouse, waist blind and hem lines of skirt. The design of patterns are animals and plants and geometrical figured. Most of patterns are dragon, fishes, birds, butterflies, which are liked by the Miao people. The patterns are highly imaginative and true to life, and are made with strong national and popular features.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.32
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• pp.225-242
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• 1997

This study is historical research on the relationship between the Changes of the Form of costume and the recognition of the beauty of the body from prehistorical period to Ch'ing Dynasty in Chinese female costume. In figure painting a significant point was to describe the spirit of the figure so Chinese painters were less interested in ideal body pro-portion or body shape than Westerns. But idealized beauty of the female body existed and changed keeping abreast with the form of costume in each period. In the prehistorical period Wemen fasten waist belt so enabled to distinguish upper part of the body from lower one. "Locust-forehead moth-eyebrows(蝗首蛾毛)" recorded in "the Book of odes(詩經)" was the canon of beaty and Wemen tried to make their forehead broad and square from Zhou Dynasty to the Wei Jin periods. From the age of Civil War to han Dynasty Slender waist was loved so waist was tightly fastened and hemline became broader. in the course of that time Plump body in big cloth with broad sleeve emerged but that was less significant than Tang Dynasty. During Wei Jin and the Southern/Northern Dynasty undergo disruption and division they admired Taoist images. Loose fitting style with handkerchief hemline and broad sash belt was prevailed while miserable life was reflected gaunt face and lean body. Suk Dynasty also preferred a slim and long body silhouette. The style was presented extremely high waist line long and narrow sleeve slim and long skirt which expressed dynamic and straight image. The culture of Tang Dynasty was open and diverse and that character enabled blod decolletate revealing body line by tight fitting and special make-up-Social background of uion and stabilization made female body extremely plump full face. full breast and hips with most erotic image. The period of Kaiyuan Tianbao fashioned mannish disguise presented androgynous image. Five Dynasty and Song Dynasty restored standard body type so upper garments concealed neck and bust high waist line lowered which represented refined and simple outfit. But another eroticism emerged as foot-binding in Song Dynasty. For the sake of covering up deformed top of the feet and ankle gaiters and arrow shaped shoes were devised. During Ming Ch'ing Dynasties body shape became more slim weak and young causing to escort instinct that reflects 'Lust' or 'Mundanity'.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.3 s.68
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• pp.394-404
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• 2007

The purpose of the study was to analyze the difference in knitwear purchasing behaviors of female college students in the U.S., Korea, and China. It was developed questionnaire that included knitwear purchasing behavior that is fashion information sources, evaluation criteria of knitwear products, store attributes of knitwear, knitwear buying places, and purchasing experience of foreign-made knitwear. The final sample used in this study consisted of 119 female college students in U.S., 150 female college students in Korea, and 217 female college students in China. Aged from 18 to 33. ANOVA, factor analysis, Duncan's multiple range test, frequency, and percentage as analysis methods were used. The results of the study were as follows. The preference of knitwear among the respondents was shown highly. This result is due to a world-wide trend of casual clothing, and is to prove, that knitwear is that made with flexibility, drape, and stretch, is the item that is able to satisfy consumer's desires. Knitwear preference of knitwear the U.S. respondents was shown highly, and buying intention of them was also high, not only for sweaters and t-shirts but for pants, skirts, jackets, coats, and dresses as well. Knitwear information the U.S. respondents considered important, was not only purchasing experience but also shop display and magazine advertisements. By evaluating criteria of knitwear, the U.S. respondents considered good fit, design, color, and comfort important, and they didn't consider the country of origin important. By store attributes of knitwear, the U.S. respondents specially considered the display, variety, price level, and sale frequency of merchandise. The respondents of China was shown higher than them of Korea in the intention of all items. Knitwear information the China respondents considered important, was not only purchasing experience but also shop advertisements of Newspaper and magazine and fashion articles in Newspaper and magazine. By evaluating criteria of knitwear, the China respondents considered good fit, design, color, and comfort important, and they considered fiber content and the country of origin higher than the respondents of U.S. By Store attributes of knitwear, the China respondents specially considered product knowledge and friendliness of sales personnel, Layaway payment plan, Brand names, New Fashion, and Dressing Facilities higher than the respondents of U.S. or Korea.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.413-421
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• 2013

We, currently settled on the peninsula, have a long history and our ancestors lived over the vast land further to the central Asia and northern China. Normally, our ancestors traded with many countries, but they fought battles when they were on bad terms and many countries emerged and disappeared. In this history, a variety of cultures have been established and the traditional martial arts is a part of those cultures. Our martial arts has been almost severed because of the development of fire weapons in the late Chosun Dynasty, Japan's colonial rule, and 1950-53 Korean War. Fortunately, we can study the traditional martial arts from history books, the records on the martial art books and relics. Muyeadobotongji, the martial art book published in the late Chosun Dynasty, regrets the negligence of martial arts Giyae(arts) after Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592 and the Manchu war of 1636 and accommodated the martial art skills from Chosun, China and Japan. It is useful for studying martial arts, because it contains detailed description and drawings, clothes and accessories, and the specification of the weapons. However, the problem is the level of Giyae of the martial arts organization and individuals based on Muyeadobotongji vary and some organizations are arguing about the numbers.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.296-308
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to understand Qipao, that Chinese traditional women's cloth, and analysis the aesthetic characteristics of that. Joining WTO in 2002 and 2008 Beijing Olympic made China get the attention by the world and get the opportunity that advent of China style. Chinese fashion cultural contents have abundant meanings in internal or external, therefore characteristics aesthetic of Chinese traditional fashion had much influence in world fashion design. Qipao that has influence in contemporary fashion design could be used special fashion design data for China market. A variety of literature and prior researches for Qipao's history and transition process was studied. Internal and external documents, fashion magazines, internet information were investigated to study features of Qipao. Total 20 seasons fashion collections from 2000S/S to 2009F/W was examined, and selected 22 brands that showed Qipao style, after then extracted 418 photos among them. By the seasons, Eit showed 193 pieces in S/S and 225 pieces in F/W, and was put to practical use in F/W season than S/S. The results are as follows. The contemporary fashion collections shown in the Qipao style silhouette, detail, color, material, pattern and the results obtained by each, were in all respects diversity. In silhouette, including traditional tight silhouettes, 'H' silhouettes, boxy silhouette was such a variety. The five colors traditionally preferred color from the color was more of a tendency to be gorgeous. Modern reinterpretation of pattern designs by graphic pattern that has emerged. Also, shown in a contemporary fashion collection Qipao style leather material in application utilizing the glossy feel of a plastic material and has emerged feeling.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.376-388
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to examine the types and characteristics of Chinese indigo dyed designs performed until today in private houses of Chinese minority races and to examine the modern value of traditional dyeing crafts of minority races by investigating the cases of utilizing modern private Chinese indigo dyed designs. As the research methodology for theoretical study about the history of Chinese traditional pattern dyeing, the origin, types and characteristics of Chinese indigo dyed designs, the preceding research data, photo data, and Internet data were utilized, and for the empirical research on Chinese traditional dyeing techniques and the cases of utilizing today Chinese indigo dyed designs, the on-site survey on Guizhou and Yunnan was conducted during February and March 2008 and the data were collected and analyzed. Based on the results of this research, it was found that Chinese indigo dyed designs represented Chinese traditional pattern dyeing, which was inherited and developed mainly in Chinese minority races and Chinese. It could be seen that according to geographical distribution and characteristics of each race, the types and characteristics of dyeing techniques were formed, which are classified into the batik of the Miao of Guizhou in the Chinese southwestern region, the tie-dyeing of Bai of Yunnan, and Chinese blue calico(resist printing) of Chinese private houses in the Hunan and Huseo regions, and these represent the three typical Chinese dyeing techniques today. Based on the results of empirical research on the utilizing cases, focusing on the traditional living handicrafts of Chinese minority races, traditional cultural articles, and artworks, the modern values such as practical, cultural, and artistic values of Chinese indigo dyed designs could be rediscovered.