• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.2
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• pp.254-267
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• 2019

Clamp resist dyeing is a resist dyeing technique in which a fabric is sandwiched between two or more pieces of woodcarving and then a pattern is expressed by dyeing. Records from nine years of King Heungdeok's reign during the Unified Silla dynasty show that the use of the clamp resist dyeing technique was banned for different garments. This was only for garments of YOOKDUPUMNYEO (六頭品女) or OHDUPUMNYEO (五頭品女). Given this, it can be assumed that clamp resisted fabrics were widely used, and the technique had been established during the Unified Silla dynasty or before. However, only the term can be found in the records. Neither its definition nor how this technique was used is explained. Also, it is difficult to assume the types and features of clamp resist dyeing due to a lack of materials. A small number of relics from the Goryeo dynasty still remain, though. Craft techniques have developed through international exchanges and have changed according to respective nations' circumstances including politics, economics, society, and culture. Hence, this research analyzed documents and relics from China and Japan, two countries neighboring the Republic of Korea, and studied the different types and features of clamp resist dyeing techniques. Clamp resist dyeing techniques were divided into monochromatic or multichromatic according to the number of colors that represented patterns, rather than according to the respective nations' features. They were also classified into mono, bilateral symmetry, or vertical-bilateral symmetry according to the structure of the patterns. Through the study of examples of inherited or reproduced dyeing techniques in China and Japan, it was confirmed that different engraving techniques, including relief, openwork, intaglio fit for the feature of a pattern and the number of colors, were applied in order to vividly represent patterns on fabric. Using small flower pattern clamp resist dyed fine tabby in Amitabha of 1302, the only relic showing its patterns and colors in Korea, as the experiment subject, this research successfully reproduced a clamp resist dyeing technique through a successful experiment based on the basic materials from the dyeing technique case study. Due to the significance of the experiment on a clamp resist dyeing technique that stopped its transmission and shows the features of the technique, this study is expected to be a basic resource that can be used for future reproductions of multichromatic clamp resist dyeing techniques. Also, it is expected to be helpful in widening and recreating the world of Korean pattern dyeing with modern dyeing techniques.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.393-402
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• 2005

Subjective touch sensation for Korean traditional silk fabrics was evaluated, in order to compare tactile sensory aspects of Korean and American subjects and to determine mechanical properties of the fabrics affecting the sensation psychophysically. Eight aspects of touch sensation including hardness, smoothness, coarseness, coolness, pliability, crispness, heaviness, and thickness were rated by semantic deferential scale. The mechanical properties of fabrics were measured by Kawabata Evaluation System (KES). Both of Koreans and Americans showed fairly similarities to each other in subjective smoothness, coarseness, and crispness. On the contrary, as for coolness and pliability, Koreans were found as feeling the silk fabrics more sensitively than Americans were in that they rated some of modified leno fabrics as very cool and stiff in touch. Coolness and pliability by Koreans were affected mainly by surface and bending properties while those by Americans were determined mostly by compressional and tensile characteristics as well as sulfate properties

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.164-183
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• 2020

In the textile culture of the Joseon Dynasty, the historic record of Banpo is fragmentary and contains many missing details. The main reason is a lack of associated literature, and it is also significant that the actual substance used is not clear at present. Banpo is a kind of cotton, but this has not been confirmed in the traditional textiles that are currently handed down. The word Ban [斑] in Banpo means "stain", and the letter Po [布] means "fabric". At the border of white discourse, Banpo did not receive attention as a research topic. This study is an attempt to restore some of the textile culture of the Joseon Dynasty through Banpo. Banpo is not just limited to the Joseon Dynasty; it is an important material for examining the development of textile culture and exchange in East Asia. This study was broadly divided into three parts. First, the record and meaning of Banpo during the Joseon Dynasty were examined. Records of Banpo can be seen from the early Joseon period during King Sejo and Seongjong, and the production and actual use of Banpo have been confirmed. Banpo was maintained until the beginning of the 20^th century, but is no longer observed. Banpo is a woven fabric made of cotton yarn dyed in many colors and has appeared in Southeast Asia since ancient times. In East Asia, there are other fabrics similar to Banpo, such as Ho [縞], Sum [纖], and Chim [綅]. In particular, the correlation between Banpo and Ho is an important link in understanding Banpo in the Joseon Dynasty. Second, the meaning of Banpo was examined from various angles through comprehensive analysis of Chinese and Japanese literature records and cases. The appearance and development of Banpo moved in sync with the period when cotton was introduced into East Asia. In East Asia, cotton was introduced and produced in earnest from the end of the Song Dynasty to the beginning of the Yuan Dynasty, and the meaning of Banpo was diversified. In China, the name of Banpo was changed to Hwapo [花布], Gizapo [碁子布], Gizahwapo [棋子花布], etc. Japan was late to introduce cotton and developed it in acceptance of the changed meaning. In Japan, use of the name Banpo is not on record, but a Ryujo [柳條] fabric of the same type as banpo has been identified. This Ryujo is the same concept as Ho and Hwapo, and later merged into Ho. Names such as Ho, Hwapo, Banpo, etc. were used differently in each country, but the form was shared across East Asia. Third, based on the meaning of Banpo shared in East Asia, the format of Banpo in the Joseon Dynasty was classified. The format of Banpo in the Joseon Dynasty can be divided into grid and striped versions. The name Banpo disappeared over time, but the form remained and was passed down until recently. I hope that this study will help restore Banpo in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.150-164
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• 2007

For the study on the African style reflected in fashion designs since 2000, the applications of African style shown in the four major collections from 2000 S/S to 2005 F/W and some African designers' collections have been analyzed and compared. In this study, 218 pieces of fashion design from the four major collections and 80 pieces from the African designers' collections have been analyzed in three categories - traditional clothes, traditional textile design and accessories. First, in the formal application of traditional clothes, the western clothes seasoned with the traditional images takes the majority of the cases in both the four major collections and the African designers' collections by 89.4% and 77.5%, respectively. However, the African designers have a tendency to actively receive modernism on the traditional clothes, while most of the western designers in the four major collections re-explain and distort the natural and primitive images of Africa into the ones longed for by the westerns. Second, in the textile design, the African designers adopt colorful and geometrical patterns of traditional textile designs of West Africa, while various animalistic patterns (36.2%) are used in the four major collections. The western designers mistakenly mix these patterns with those from the West or other traditional patterns from different cultures, obstructing proper understanding of the African culture. Third, accessories are the cultural elements most widely utilized by the African designers. In the African designers' collections, they are simplified to provide the functions well-matched with the modern clothes. In the four major collections, however, the primitive and colorful accessories found in African tribal culture are used in an exaggerated manner.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.29
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• pp.85-98
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• 1996

WE SELECTED 30 SORTS OF PLANT-DYES WHICH WE CAN GET EASILY AROUND US DYED TEXTILE FABRICS THROUGH EXPERIMENTAL STUDIES AND GOT SEVERAL GOOD COLORS AS FOLLOWS WITH HISTORICAL REVIEW-ING ABOUT THE TRADITIONL NATU-RAL DYEING. 1. We got the colors of brown most com-monly yellow the nest black green and red in order of frequency 2. It is dyed more rapidly beautifully and deeply to the silk than to the cotton. 3. Salt worked the colors deeply K2CO3 more light FeSo47H2O more darkly and Alum the most beautifully and brightly as a mor-dant. 4. natural plant dyes contains various sorts of colors and we could confirm the possibility to create the composed implicit and secondary and tertiary colors through dual method of dyeing which couldnt's be got in the field of modern chemical dyes.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 1998.10a
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• pp.145-148
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• 1998

1821년경 최초로 "loess"라는 이름으로 사용된 황토는 산화철을 함유하는 황갈색의 광물성 염료이며, 이것은 일반적으로 황토가 포함된 원토를 채에 담아 물 속에서 선별하거나 바람에 날려 분리시켜 얻어지며, 분리되어진 황토는 불투명한 황갈색의 색조와 항균성이 있는 것으로 알려져 왔다[1]. 그러나 황토는 물기름, 유기용제 등에 불용성이며 섬유와 친화력이 없어 염색후 내세탁성이 낮아 황토 염색시 고착제인 콩즙을 이용하는 전통적인 방법이 알려지다가 최근에 Kim[2]은 고착제 없이 황토의 입자 크기를 5 $mu extrm{m}$ 이하로 하여 9$0^{\circ}C$에서 5~10 분간 교반하는 방법으로 면직물에 염색해 내세탁성과 항균성이 있는 염색물을 얻고자 하였으나 입자 크기가 5$\mu\textrm{m}$이하 수준에서도 친화력이 부족하여 내세탁성에는 크게 영향을 미치지 못하였으며 항균 효과도 낮게 나온 것으로 보고되었다. (중략)

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.319-332
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze Kapa, the traditional bark cloth of Hawaii, including materials, method of manufacture, and colors and patterns, and to show the characteristics of Kapa to identify traditional culture of Hawaii as well as the unique culture of cloth of Hawaii in tropical area. The method of study is qualitative research using documentary records about Kapa. The cultivated Wauke proved to be the best material for bark cloth in Hawaii. The manufacture of Kapa was made by beating divided into two stages. The dyes for coloring were very different due to the existence of various plants. Indigenous Hawaiians showed the unique textures like grooving and watermarks, and the various designs in their Kapa. The characteristics of Hawaiian Kapa appear the symbol of some colors, the preference of geometrical patterns, the various uses of Kapa, and perfumed Kapa. Through these characteristics of Hawaiian Kapa, the traditional culture of indigenous Hawaiian can be understood very well. This study will help people understand indigenous bark cloth of tropical areas including Hawaii.

• Archives of design research
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.197-207
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• 2001

A designed object reveals its meaning and image through form, color and material. Among these three elements, material has more powerful influence with its tactile and visual characteristics. In Korea, traditionally materials itself were mainly used to design artifacts rather than various color or formal decoration. The purpose of this study is to investigate the Korean traditional materials, and to classify them by the characteristics of their texture. For this study, the pictures of Korean traditional artifacts were collected from the national museums and literature. Those are architectural and interior elements, furniture, cloths and textiles, arts and crafts. Total of 533 collected artifacts were classified into seven categories, metal, day, stone, paper, wood, straw, fabric things. : 59 metal things, 115 clay things, 62 stone things, 73 paper things, 80 wood things, 47 straw things, 97 fabric things. Each materials were classified into its forming methods and surface treatment focused on the he characteristics of their surface texture. Throughout this study, the uniqueness of forming method and surface treatment of each materials in Korea has been clarified. And furthermore the classification by this various traditional methods of materials will provide plentiful information and ideas to today's designers of the world.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.1
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• pp.101-116
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• 2010

In this study, the subjects are the expression methods and compositions of peony patterns in Chinese textiles. This study represents the peony patterns which are from Tang Dynasty to the Qing Dynasty, the research subjects are the peony patterns in fabric, except the peony patterns which are expressed by gold foil, embroidery and kesi. The objects of this study are 72 pieces of peony patterns. We sketched the configuration details of peony patterns through the Illustrator program. Analyze and classify the configuration accurately. Based on the 72 pieces of peony patterns, expression methods and compositions of the peony pattern are as following, firstly, we classified peony patterns into three categories, based on expression methods, as realistic shape, pattern shape and shape. Among these 72 fabric relics, there most of realistic shape 42 pieces(58.3%), pattern shape 25 pieces(34.7%), and shape 5 pieces(7.0%). Secondly, in the realistic shape peony, the most of pattern has petal accumulate as grape- shaped. This type is found in almost every Dynasty and was used regularly in the eras of Song and Ming Dynasty. In the era of Ming Dynasty, by using petals like the curly mushroom, Yeongji(靈芝), the pattern of symbolizing longevity was habitually used. The U-shaped flower pattern (type E) and the pattern of emphasizing the veins of petals are found only in the remains of the era of Qing Dynasty. Thirdly, in the pattern shaped peony, the most of pattern has some petals which are separated(type C). Fourthly, we classified peony patterns into four categories, based on compositions, as individual branch form, floral branch form, cluster branch form and floral nest form. Among these 72 fabric relics, there most of individual branch form 33 pieces(45.8%), floral branch form 18 pieces(25.0%), cluster branch form 13 pieces(18.1%), floral nest form 8 pieces(11.1%).

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.307-315
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• 2014

The gold textile is Korean traditional weaving technique using the gold thread since 5th century. The making technique of gold thread was written in various references, but it is severed because the gold thread weaving equipment and sumptuous moods were forbidden in the early 18th century. There are some studies of traditional gold thread which are mainly about conservation treatment of cleaning and strength. To restore traditional gold thread, investigation of material and manufacturing technique is vitally required. The gold threads are composed of gold leaf, adhesive and base sheet. Gold leaf and base sheet are available for investigation because they are exposed to the surface, whereas adhesive is not easy to investigate because it is not exposed to the surface. In this study, samples are made of pure and impure gold, animal glue and lacquer, and various types of Hanji based on domestic and foreign references to compare materials for gold threads. As a result of morphological character and stability evaluation, the optimum materials for the restoration of gold threads are pure gold, animal glue and Dochimji(smoothing paper by beating). This study is expected to be basic data for manufacturing gold threads techniques and modernization of traditional gold threads hereafter research.