• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.677-688
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to find out the symbolism of religious costume which has showed the religious belief system through costume practice and culture. Indian Religious costume each has its own mark was investigated in this study. In India, religion is a way of life. It is an integral part of the entire Indian tradition. The results were as follows; India's several main religions are Hinduism(About 80% of population) , Islam (About 11% of population) , Sikhism(less than 2% of population) , Jainism(less than 1% of population) , Buddhism(less than 1% of population) and Christianity(About 3% of population but excluding here) Religious faith system which symbolized Godhood, spiritualty, ascetics, restraint, chastity, sacred and dignity gave a certain shape to each color, ornaments, dressing and marking of religion costume. In connection with religion costumes, there were Hindu's Tika, sacred ash, long hair, knot and holy band (Yajnopavita) , Buddhist's kayysa and tonsures, Jams' no covering, Muslim's chador and skullcap, Sikh's turban (with no cutting hair) , comb, steel bracelet, drawers, sword or dagger. The characteristics, head especially of thebody and white in the colors were made much account for India religion costume. Traditional costume seems to be worn at the present times in India. But apparently these costume associated with religion costume because of Hindu more than 80% of population.

• Proceedings of the Korean Operations and Management Science Society Conference
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• 1992.04b
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• pp.457-465
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• 1992

현재 또는 장래에 예견되는 거의 모든 통신서비스를 통합적으로 제공할 수 있는 B-ISDN환경하에서 음성통화와 비디오정보, 데이타들이 각기 다른 bit rate와 서비스 요구조건(통화시간, 질등)를 가지고 전송서비스를 받으려 하기때문에 매우 다양한 서비스들의 조합을 고려하여 교환시스팀을 구현해야 한다. B-ISDN에 적합한 전송기술로서 ATM(Asynchronous Transfer Mode)이 일반적으로 제안되고 있는데 이미 10여종의 독특한 ATM시스팀들이 이론적, 실험적 연구단계를 거쳐 거의 실용화 단계까지 이르렀다고 주장되고 있다. 본 논문에서는 ATM교환시스팀의 설계요건과 비교기준을 제시하여 설계 대자인을 주어진 기술제약하에 최적화 할 수 있는 조건을 제시한다. 이때 우선 기본 스위치의 구조를 단단계로 할 것인가 다단계로 할 것인가에 대한 정량적, 확률적인 비교가 행해지고 특히 이미 많은 ATM스위치에서 채택되고 있는 Banyan형태의 망의 성능분석을 보다 현실에 근접하게 할 수 있는 이산적 마코프체인에 의한 모형과 계산방법이 확립된다. 이를 통해 단위스위치내부에 버퍼의 유무, 버퍼를 두는 위치, 또한 버퍼사이즈에 의한 영향등이 세부적으로 분석된다.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.923-938
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• 2009

Since the end of 1960s, an era of internationalization, Interculturalism has been reflected in intercultural plays which borrow concepts of foreign-cultural aesthetics for the performance and create a new stage language. Among many writers and performers, Oh, Tae-seok created his own unique aesthetic performances through experimental and avant-garde methodologies connected with various areas of art. His plays are worth studying since they suggest us a point of view which helps us to get out of the ordinary, fixed thought and try to see variety of reality. Therefore, our study categorized Oh, Tae-seok's play into four areas according to grotesquery interculturalism : Evil sprit, Abhorrence, Exaggeration and distort, and Heterogeneity. Based on this category, we analyzed plastic artistic characteristics of his plays' stage costume, for example, shapes, materials, and color, and tried to enhance the aesthetic value of his plays. We made a conclusion that the play showed grotesquery features in stage costume, which represented death, tragedy, evil sprit of human negligence, surprising and grotesquery abhorrence by deformity of the body, exaggeration and distortion, ridiculousness, and heterogeneity, the mixture of abnormality and unstableness. Our study could help produce adequate stage costume matching the features of the performance, and be the cornerstone of grotesquery aesthetic interculturalism study reflected in stage costume.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.569-587
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• 2010

In the field of fashion in this modern era, the tendency of diversification has created a variety of hybrid patterns and this tendency is being accelerated simultaneously by the hybrid trend. This research aims to analyze the aesthetic features of hybrid fashion in the modern "Sports Inspired Fashion(SIF)." We analyze fashion in the past 10 years from 2001 S/S to 2010 S/S. We focus on the four largest worldwide collections from New York, Paris, Milano, and London and concentrate on analyzing the contents from 38 volumes of Gap Press magazine. To accomplish our goal of study, we first define the concept of sports-inspired fashion and propose a framework of analysis to study hybrid patterns by reviewing the previous studies on hybrid patterns. Second, we analyze a wide range of sports-inspired fashion examples that have appeared in Gap Press magazines for the past 10 years(those which have been inspired by sports uniforms and training wears). Third, we analyze and classify the hybrid patterns of sports-inspired fashion. The results of our research are as follows. We have collected a total of 534 SIF works from the whole set of 61359 pictures and examined 23 sports fields. In terms of seasonal changes, the SIF works were found the most in the spring collections. Then, we have identified 25 hybrid patterns. The time hybrid pattern comprises more than half of the data(58.2%). The class-culture hybrid patterns comprise 18.8%, while the gender hybrid patterns comprise 18.2%. However, the intercultural hybrid patterns were rarely found, comprising merely 5% of the data. Our analysis confirms that sports and sports wear fashion are changing and developing in truly diverse ways in this modern era. This trend has continued to influence the high fashion in the modern age and is expected to exert a continuous impact on the change of fashion in the future.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.34-34
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• 2003

본 연구는 체형의 특성이 현저히 나타나는 40~50대의 Plus-size 여성을 대상으로 체형의 특징이 고려된 치수체계에 대해 맞음새가 우수한 재킷을 개발하고, 이 원형을 토대로 하여 체형의 단점을 보완할 시각적 효과를 연구하기 위해 Plus-size에 해당하는 여성을 선정하여 수트(suit)를 제작한 후 착의 평가하여 Plus-size에 적합한 수트를 제안하는데 목적을 두고 있다. 결과를 요약하면 다음과 같다. 1. Plus-size 여성의 착용실태를 파악하기 위해 실시한 착용실태 조사는 판매자의 측면의 심층면접과 소비자 측면의 착장조사로 구분하여 조사하고 분석하였다. 착용실태조사 결과, Plus-size 여성은 의복구매시 맞음새와 편안함을 중시하고 상완부와 어깨의 두께, 가슴둘레와 복부의 비만등의 체형단점을 갖게 되므로 판매자측에서는 의복제도 시에 등품, 앞품, 상완부, 복부의 여유분을 고려하고 있었다. 시각적 효과로는 세미피트 스타일의 프린세스 라인과 허리선+20, 30cm의 재킷길이, 그리고 테일러드 칼라, 스테인 칼라, 라운드 네크라인이 판매자과 소비자의 양측면에서 선호되고 있었다. 2. Plus-size 여성의 체형에 맞음새가 우수한 재킷원형을 개발하기 위해 Plus-size 여성복의 재킷 원형 중 4종의 기존원형을 선정하고, 착의 피험자 3인을 대상으로 3차에 걸친 착의실험을 통해 연구 원형을 개발하고 평가단을 구성해 객관적인 평가 33문항에 대한 외관 관능검사를 실시하였다. 1) 가슴둘레 여유분을 8~9cm, 허리둘레 여유분을 6~7cm, 엉덩이둘레 여유분을 6~8cm로 적용하여 맞음새를 향상시켜 날씬해 보이는 효과를 높였다. 2) 진동깊이 계산식은 (B/10+10.5)+2cm 적용하고, 진동두께 계산식은 (B/8-1.5)+2cm를 적용함으로써 진동깊이와 진동두께의 편차가 작아짐으로 인해 소매부위와 진동부위의 맞음새를 향상시켰다. 3) 가슴둘레의 증가에 따라 등길이에 앞길이 치수를 증가시키는 계산식을 설정하여 앞가슴둘레의 맞음새를 향상시켰다. 4) Plus-size여성의 경우 허리부분의 신체적합성을 높이기 위하여 사이드 판넬(side panel)의 재킷원형으로 하였다. 앞 허리와 배 부분의 지방 침착이 크므로 앞 허리둘레 다아트 폭과 앞판 사이드 판넬(side panel) 솔기 다아트 폭을 작게 설정하고, 뒤판 사이드 판넬 솔기 폭을 크게 설정하였다. 5) 어깨끝점 사이길이는 다른 부위의 체지방 침착과 같이 비례적으로 증가하지 않으므로 표준체형에 비해 좁게 설정하였다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.4
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• pp.149-163
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• 2012

This study reviewed current facts on overseas manufacturing factories of garment vendors that were launched in the countries that have a great influence of the Korean Wave, and investigated the influence of Korean Wave in its sourcing area. By doing so, this study aims to present basic data in order to help fabric and garment vendors to enter into the fashion markets of different countries through a local network. For data collection and analysis, Windows SPSS 19.0 was used for frequency analysis of the facts and figures of the local manufacturing factories. In-depth interviews regarding the current facts on local manufacturing factories and the influence of Korean Wave were conducted with 16 Korean garment manufacturing factories in Vietnam and 9 in Indonesia among the overseas garment companies that were registered in the Korean Apparel Industry Association. Through the interview, it was found that new companies should investigate custom tariffs, salary level of the local employees, and infrastructure prior to launching above all. Also, as a result of analyzing competitors and competitive advantages, good treatment of local employees and a good labor environment were noted the most. As for the influence of the Korean Wave, the image of Korea was positive and favorable, but it did not directly affect the preference for Korean companies. After investigating the obstacles that prevented the entrance into local markets, it was found that the rise in the salary level was the biggest hindrance.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.121-144
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• 2022

This study analyzed the effects of fashion creators' innovativeness and attractiveness on consumer response and orientation toward a sustainable relationship in personal media. A survey was conducted with consumers aged in their 20s and 30s who had experience in sharing video content or writing comments and participating in fashion creators' real-time broadcasting of personal media. The results show that the innovativeness of fashion creators was classified into originality, opinion leadership, variety, and adventurous spirit, while attractiveness was classified into physical, social, and professional attractiveness. Consumer responses were classified into either emotional or cognitive responses, and sustainable relationship orientation was classified into communication, sharing, and relationship sustainability. The originality and variety of the fashion creators positively affected the emotional and cognitive responses of consumers. Adventurous spirit positively affected emotional response, whereas opinion leadership positively affected cognitive response. In addition, the social and professional attractiveness of fashion creators positively affected consumers' emotional and cognitive responses. Emotional and cognitive responses positively affected consumers' sustainable relationship orientation. The originality and opinion leadership of the fashion creators positively affected the three factors of sustainable relationship orientation, while variety positively affected communication and relationship sustainability. Fashion creators' social and professional attractiveness positively affected the three factors of sustainable relationship orientation, and physical attractiveness positively affected relationship sustainability. The results of this study are expected to provide useful data on the direction of fashion startups using personal media and marketing as well as distribution strategies in the fashion industry.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.83-100
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• 2019

The purposes of this study are to identify the meaning of the geometrical patterns preferred by ancient Korean peoples and to classify them into some groups by their similarity. We investigated various patterns found on clothing and relics from GoJoseon to Goguryeo period, and utilized secondary sources such as history articles, Internet materials and photo and analyzed the associations of the varied patterns found in pottery, handicrafts, and clothing with the ancient cultures. We found the letters (ㅇ, ㅁ, and ㅅ of Korean alphabet, Hangul) preferred by ancestors who worshipped nature to identify the significations attached by them to particular patterns. The results confirm the following: first, the circle pattern indicated the sun, moon, stars in the sky, a bronze mirror, and a man's face. Circles and ovals were also observed to represent the individual souls of the clan or community. Second, square patterns symbolized the land and the patterns that signified the wellbeing of family and the country. Oblique rectangles were more frequently used as they represented a double use of the triangle, a shape that implied mystic power. Third, triangle symbolized regeneration, power, and humanity. While the Neolithic Age jade remnants of hair combs appear not to be irrelevant to the process of comb-shaped pottery production of the time, many fine comb-like lines may be found on bronze mirrors. Through its review of the glorious designs inherited from and established by ancient ancestors, the present research endeavor may help in identifying the spirits and traditions of Korean history.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.74-85
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• 1997

폴 푸아레 (1879-1944)가 패션 역사상 혁명적이라고 할 수 있는 여성의 코르셋을 제거시켰다는 것은 익히 알려진 사실이다. 그리고 그러한 결과로 인해 발생된 새로운 직선형의 실루엣에 화려한 색채와 장식을 하여 이전 시대와는 전혀 다른 현대패션의 근원이 되었다. 본 연구는 푸아레의 새로운 직선 실루엣과 화려한 색채와 경이적 장식의 근원이 다름아닌 동양이라는데 중점을 두었다. 이미 국내의 몇편의 논문에서 이러한 논의가 지적되어 왔으나 다른 논제를 다루는 중에 언급이 되었고 당시의 작품이나 동시대의 자료를 분석한 것이 아닌 근래의 출판물에 의존한 연구가 대부분이었다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 그의 동양풍 디자인의 근원을 밝히는데 있어 가능한한 1 차적 자료의 접근을 시도하였다. 1912년 작품인 이브닝 드레스, 터번, 숄, 구두 각 1점과 그의 작품 의도와 생애의 추구를 말해주는 자서전(1930년 불어본 및 1931년 영어본)과 보그(Vogue)지의 기사(1920년 2월호, 9월호) 등을 통하여 그의 동양에 대한 관심을 살펴보았다. 그 결과 푸아레의 동양 영향의 근원은 19세기 말 유럽에서 절정을 이룬 'Sino-Japonism'(중국-일본주의)의 심취, 러시아 발레단의 의상과 색채, 천일야화의 영향에 의한 중동(페르시아)에 대한 열망, 그리고 인도 토민병의 복식에서 비롯된 터번에의 매료 등이었음을 알 수 있었다. 이러한 근원에서 탄생된 디자인으로는 직선형의 튜닉, 기모노 소매(처음엔 푸아레 자신도 중국의 것으로 혼동을 하기도 했지만), 하렘팬츠, 비대칭적인 카프탄식의 코트, 원색의 사용, 극동지역의 직물과 문양, 술장식, 터번 등으로 나타내었다. 따라서 폴 푸아레의 동양적인 관심은 단지 개인적 '취향 혹은 취미(taste)'가 아니라 한 시대양식으로 자리잡은 '동양주의(Orientalism)'라 할 수 있으며 이러한 푸아레의 동양주의는 당시의 패션에 있어 신체의 선을 부정하여 코르셋을 제거 시키게한 그의 모더니즘의 근거가 된다. 본연구의 제한점으로 1차적 자료를 수집하는데에 있어 보다 폭넓지 못했던 점을 밝혀둔다.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.44-65
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• 2018

This study examined the costumes of the characters in the painting titled Hig yongru Banghwoedo, which was designated as National Treasure No. 1879 in September 2015, and is currently kept in the Dongguk University Museum. The painting depicts a social gathering of Joseon aristocrats held at the higyongru, or watch tower, of the Gwangjumok, a government office, in 1567. It is characterized by the delicate illustration of the government officials, the main characters of the gathering, and the hyangri, ajeon, najang, chorye, akgong, and yeogi, the lower-class employees of the office. In order to investigate the costumes they wore, diverse materials including literature, costume artifacts, and paintings were used as reference sources. The scope of the study was limited to the characters' headdress and gown, and the accessories attached to the former. The study of men's clothing revealed that officials wore a samo and a red dalryeong as basic attire. In addition, it is presumed that they wore a belt indicating their official rank in the hierarchy, and a pair of black shoes. Retired officials wore a heuklip wrapped in horsehair or silk fabric with a red jing-nyeong and a doah. The hyangri wore a heukjukbanglip on their head, as well as a white jing-nyeong and a belted doah. In the Goryeo period, the banglip was a type of official headdress worn by members of the aristocratic elite ranked immediately below the king, but in Joseon it was demoted as the official headgear of the hyangri class, which was confirmed through Higyongru Banghwoedo. The ajeon wore a heuklip on their head, and a white jing-nyeong and a doah at the waist. As a rule, the najang wore a chogun on the head, and a banbieui on cheolrik and chungmokdai, but the najang in Higyongru Banghwoedo are depicted wearing a chogun and a cheolrik without a banbieui. Also, the chorye wore a heuklip wrapped in hemp cloth with a red cheolrik, whereas the akgong wore a somoja and a red cheolrik. Female entertainers, both adults and children, are depicted in the painting as either serving the aristocrats, dancing, or playing a musical instrument, wearing their hair in a voluminous, round, high bun, and dressed in a red daiyo, a hwangjangsam with a straight or reclined collar, and a belt. Notably, the donggi, i.e. young gisaeng, are shown wearing their hair in two short braids, and ddressed in a red gown with a y-shaped collar, or po.