• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.167-177
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• 2011

As today the world has been globalized, each country and race has been trying its best to preserve and develop its own unique culture to have its identity. Same exertion has been added in the areas of fashion and textile such as developing traditional textile or fabrics and applying them to the materials of modem fashion. The Korean traditional gold foil is one of invaluable cultural heritages, and another means to elevate the wearer's social status, and its beauty and artistic quality is very excellent. So, in order to preserve and develop of the Korean traditional gold foil, the exertion of developing the gold foil into multi-purpose modem fashion material which is endurable and practical by using the image of Korean traditional gold foil should be done. The purposes of this study are to preserve Korean traditional gold foil, to develop Korean textile and fashion industry by utilizing Korean traditional gold foil images in modem fashion. The results are as follows: textile designs applied plant motives of Korean traditional gold foil were carried out, modem fashion materials of Korean traditional gold foil image were developed by Jacquard weave. They were to certify that those were registered on the register of the Korean of design registrations from commissioner the Korean Intellectual Property Office, and developed fabrics of Korean gold foil image were examined the utility for modern fashion materials through using them in the modem wearing, interior goods and fashion items.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.117-123
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• 2008

When it comes to clothing design, after the mid 20th century some internationally renowned designers began to recognize the pivotal role clothing materials play in attracting the hearts of customers. Accordingly, they started to take advantage of new clothing materials in the sector of clothing design. While the theme of fashionable clothing products shifts from style and color to clothing materials, fashion designers place the quality of materials at the center of clothing designs. Fashion designers also realize that good quality of materials should be used to boost the value of products as well as to satisfy the conditions of creativity, practicality and aesthetics. In particular, as the non-apparel industry in which clothing materials are the most important aspect between fashionable color, silhouette and details is enhancing their attention to develop various materials in order to meet the needs of customers, the fashion industry places a high premium on textile design which is the pinnacle of expressing emotion on clothing materials. In addition, the industry raises awareness of developing more sophisticated and differentiated materials. Our thesis covers the way how to apply $moir{\acute{e}}$ pattern to clothing design on the basis of research. In order to put that research into practical use, we produced textiles which effectively display $moir{\acute{e}}$ pattern. Before this process, we tried to ensure that radial grating created $moir{\acute{e}}$ pattern effects. To this end, the weaving process was applied, depending on whether light can penetrate textiles or not. Then, we manufactured test-products using $moir{\acute{e}}$ pattern.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.73-84
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• 2015

Analysis of design preference to Korean and Chinese casual style were made targeting Chinese female students in Korea. The following conclusion was derived from the result of final 300-copy survey data, using SPSS 18.0 program. The data were analyzed by frequency, t-test, chi-squre independence test, ANOVA and Scheffe test. Firstly, when comparing change of design preference before the stay in Korea with after the stay in Korea, the biggest change in their preference was character casual style, while the least change was easy casual wear. In terms of duration of stay in Korea, the biggest change was from the group of over 3 years, and in the order of the group of 1-3years, and then lastly less than 1 year, which suggests that the longer the duration of stay, the bigger the change. When comparing preferred clothing color before the stay in Korea with after the stay in Korea, both before and after the stay in Korea had the highest preference for achromatic colors. The frequency of change was mostly from achromatic color to other colors. In the preferred clothing pattern, 'plain' was their favorite one before the stay in Korea, while it turned to 'nature pattern' after the stay in Korea, followed by 'plain' one. In the textiles, the most preferred one was 'cotton', before and after the stay in Korea. However, their preference for cotton was lower after their stay in Korea than before the stay in Korea, and instead there was more preference for 'silk', 'synthetic fiber', and 'other' sources.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.55-63
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• 2005

The outcome of modem sports events are reliant on not only the athletic ability and technology of individual players but their sportswear proterties. State-of-the-Hitech sportswear has started to be introduced in the 1950s, and in addition to the athletic capability of players, sportswear is one of the primary factors to affect the results of sports games, as a wide variety of Hi-Tech functional materials have come out since the 1990s. The purpose of this study was to development into the concept of active sportswear, to sort out hitech functional product lines in this field, to look into sports stars and Hi-Tech functional sports brands, and finally to identify the major characteristics of recent active sportswear. The result of this study were as follows: 1. There were largely four characteristics in recent functional sportswear materials: fast-drying cooling, minimized resistance, ultralight comfortableness, and water vapor permeable/waterproof function. 2. Besides the athletic capability and technology of players, Hi-Tech functional products are one of the major factors to determine the outcome of modem sports events. Functional synthetic fiber is preferred, instead of cotton, since the former is easier to manage and retains humidity better. 3. The major features of recent trend in active sportswear products are, functional, diversity and value. That is, those products are functional, since they are easy to manage and retain proper humidity, and they are for multipurpose, since they are fashionable and practical at the same time. And they are valuable, being expensive but appropriate for the movement of the body and having a high quality.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.35-50
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• 2007

We performed the subjective sensibility evaluation on knitted fabrics by the following procedures: setting acrylic fabrics used for S/S among fabrics as basis, five kinds of blended spun yarns and four kinds of twisted filament yarns made by different twisting methods then, we did questionnaire survey targeting sixty females in the expert groups. Utilizing SPSS 12.0, correlation, ANOVA, Duncan, and Multidimensional Standard way were analyzed. The results are as following. First, the result of evaluating on preferred knits followed by the analysis of the sense factor, in the 'drape sense', the acrylic/rayon blended knit was preferred as the most flexible, pliable, and elastic knit; in weight/bulk factor, the acrylic filament knit the most twisted was preferred as the least bulk, thin, cool and transparent knit; in 'surface depression sense' factor, A(F)W acrylic/wool blended knit was preferred as the most haggard, straight, dry knit. Second, the result of evaluating on preferred knits followed by the analysis of the sensibility factor, in the 'neatness' the acrylic filament hit was preferred as the most clean, neat and delightful knit; in the 'comfortableness', the acrylic/wool blended knit was preferred as the most natural, stable, and comfortable knit. Third, according to the result of evaluating on preferred knits as the spring and summer, generally the acrylic filament twisted yarn knits were more preferred than the acrylic blended yarns. However the preference on the kinds of the acrylic twisted filament yarn showed that there is a little difference on the acrylic blended yarn knit.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.169-179
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• 2009

In order to preserve the Korean traditional gold foil, to develop as Korean traditional textile art by utilizing in modem fashion for textile industry, and to examine utility of the material which can be used in the modem wearing, interior goods and fashion terms, Textiles Applied Korean Traditional Gold Foil were developed. The results are as follows: First, important factors of the gold foil image should be extracted as materials quality, color and pattern, and modem and practical qualities should be proceeded when developing the image of the gold foil into modem quality material. Second, since gloss of fabric developed by a traditional method is somewhat strong, uniformity being a little bit low for hand-made manufacturing, and practical quality is low for high cost, deletion of the gold foil, etc. So it hasn't been appropriate for studying modem fashion material. Third, Jacquard weave has been examined as the most appropriate method in order to present the gold foil image among a number of textile manufacturing techniques Fourth, considering factors deciding the image of the gold foil and a sense of beauty of modem society, gloss of the foil has been lessened by expressing pattern to lower traditional quality and primary color. Fifth, pattern motives of developed materials have been extracted tram traditional gold foil patterns, and materials have been chosen considering of concepts and motives, and dragon pattern, crane pattern and bat pattern, Sixth, wearing, pin-up works, bed linen, fabrics for chairs, ties, bags, shoes, umbrellas, etc. are produced with the developed materials, and practical use and modern quality have been examined. The result is very satisfactory.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.197-206
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to dye hanji/cotton fabrics using persimmon juice and to investigate the change in the hand fabrics. Using the Kawabata Evaluation System, we have examined the changes in the physical properties, primary hand value and total hand value. The dynamic characteristics of hanji/cotton fabrics have been explored by tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. As a result, it can be seen that the linearity of load-extension and tensile resilience are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice and tensile energy is decreased in the same condition. These behaviors are shown in the compression properties. Although the mechanism of persimmon juice dyeing has been widely discussed, it means that the fabrics dyed with persimmon juice become stiffened and the elasticity is increased with the introduction of persimmon on the fabrics studied. Bending rigidity and hysteresis of the bending moment are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice. Also, Geometrical roughness, expressed in SMD is increased with increasing the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice, compared with as-received. It indicates that these results are due to the geometric structure of hanji yarn and the introduction of persimmon juice on the fabrics studied. The fullness and softness with the soft feeing are increased a little due to the tannin component of persimmon juice introduced on the fiber surface.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.125-138
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• 2008

For physical and hand property evaluation of fabrics, the knitted fabrics from 11 types of machines knitting fancy yarns, boucle (M1), knot (M2), snarl (M3), and slub (M4), tamtam (M5), tubular (M6), fur 1 (M7), bead (M8), fur 2 (M9), fur 3 (M10), and ladder (M11) yarns, were prepared with 7-10 G plain stitch. Washing test and pilling test had also been carried out. For hand properties by objective sensibility evaluation, 17 items of sir mechanical properties using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System) had been measured. Then hand values of knitted fabrics were calculated with a calculation formula, namely KN-402-KT. Finally the total hand values were obtained through KN-301-WINTER. As a result of physical properties and objective evaluation for machines knitting fancy fabrics, most of them shrank in the direction of wale and course after the washing test, in which their shrinkage rate had a maximum of 3.5%. Therefore, the washing test indicated that the shrinkage ratio of knitted fabrics had a minor change. The results of the pilling test are mostly 4-5th grade, and all of the machines knitting fancy fabrics showed good results in the pilling resistance. In hand properties and objective sensibility evaluation, twisted fancy yarns, such as boucle (M1), knot (M2), snarl (M3), and slub (M4), were superior to bonding rigidity (B) and shear rigidity (G). The surface property between course and wale differs in all samples and course direction is tougher than wale direction. FUKURAMI (fullness and softness) of all samples have high values, besides NUMERI (smoothness) of tamtam (M5) and boucle (M1), which were rather good. Most samples except fur 1 (M7) had low KOSHI (stiffness) value. The total hand value (THV) of twisted yarns was low. This study proves that manufacturers, who plan knitting yarn products and knit fashion, can apply these data to develop machines knitting yarns and knits that fit the consumers' demands.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.149-162
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to suggest various directions of living hanbok and proposed the living hanbok design that integrated the tradition and the contemporary, as well as the past and present with denim material that represents the youth cultureby while using the motif of Korean Jogakbo. For the research method, the data on living hanbok, denim, and Jogakbo were surveyed to develop and produce a living hanbok design. The development of a living hanbok design emphasized the meaning of longing for an accumulation of good fortune, by using the concept of 'wishing for fortune' including the symbolic images of denim and Jogakbo. The production results of this study are as follows. First, the Jogakbo motif consisted of patterns yearning for harmony, great fortune, longevity, and many children, and the living hanbok design integrated with the denim material symbolized the convergence of the past and present and the harmony of eastern and western cultures. The study could verify that the living hanbok design was recreated in a contemporary sense to be used everyday by expressing contemporary senses in a traditional image. Second, leftover fabric pieces and recycled materials that can be abandoned by the material market were used for denim. This study could also develop the living hanbok design as a sustainable design through upcycling, an important social trend, puting an emphasis on carrying out socio-ethical responsibilities. Third, denim Jogakbo work, which is connected by small pieces of denim material, used to be a difficult and labor intensive handicraft, but it could be proposed as a new high value-added fashion and generate contemporary living hanbok with a new image.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.175-186
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• 2018

These days, due to increased income levels, lower birthrate, and increased marriage age, interest and investment in children has increased, and infant & children's clothes has become more upgraded, differentiated, and diversified. In accordance with the change of the infant & children's clothes market, Examine the research trends of the papers in the journals. Used 'KISS', 'DBpia', 'Korea Institute of Science and Technology Information', in the search system, and 137 papers were searched for by using key word, 'infant's clothes' and 'children's clothes'. The year of publication is limited to 2001 to 2017, and they are classified into 5-year units and again the papers were classified by year, by journal, by field of clothing research (Technical Design & Production, Fashion Marketing, Textile System, Fashion Design), and frequency and percentage were used as data analysis. The number of articles related to infant & children's clothes increased such as 39 in 2001~2005, 43 in 2006~2010, and 55 in 2011~2017. The distribution of articles by journals has been published mainly in the journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, but as the journals were diversified, they were distributed evenly in other journals related to the apparel. In the presentations according to the research field by year, from 2001 to 2005, the ratio of apparel design and production was high, but since 2006, many papers related to fashion marketing and fashion design have been published. The research contents of the field of clothing research are as follows: 41 articles in design production field, focusing on dimensional system and pattern design, 40 articles in fashion design field, focusing on design development and design preferences, 46 articles in fashion marketing field, focusing on consumer behavior and marketing management. And 10 articles in apparel material system field, focusing on research on cloth science materials, but they are less well studied than others, but these studies should be actively pursued in the future.